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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
REVIEW:  IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 In A Beautiful Obsidian Black WatchAdvice
IWC  Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 Feb 7, 2025

REVIEW:  IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 In A Beautiful Obsidian Black

The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 is a stunning embodiment of luxury and timeless style, drawing its roots from the heritage of the iconic Reference 325 model. In this review, I explore one of the most striking colour combinations to fully appreciate what makes this timepiece stand out. What We Love The black obsidian dial perfectly complements the 18k 5N gold case ideally sized to suit even small wrists A timeless design that references the original Prortugieser Reference 325. What We Don’t With a case thickness of 12.4mm, the watch’s water resistance of 30m seems too little. The lack of a date window may deter those who want a dress watch with this feature. Sixty seconds constant sub-counter needs to be a few shades darker to more closely match with the dial. Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Portugieser line has to be my favourite from IWC Schaffhausen, with its elegant and refined aesthetics complementing the sporty side. Previously, I had the chance to wear and test out the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 42 with the sliver-plated dial, and I certainly enjoyed my time with it! Before I had the chance to do the review, however, I was already a fan of the Automatic 42, especially its bi-counter layout displaying the power reserve and constant seconds. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 on Chamath’s wrist W...

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A Unique Military Inspired Watch For Under $300 – Prevail Onward Future Worn & Wound
Feb 3, 2025

A Unique Military Inspired Watch For Under $300 – Prevail Onward Future

Veteran-owned Prevail strives to redefine what a military-inspired watch can be. With a unique contemporary design language and capable specifications, the young brand is unafraid to chart its own path. The Tampa Bay-based brand donates a portion of its profits to the Heart and Armor Foundation, a charity supporting scientific research and community programs for veterans’ health. The Onward, Prevail’s freshman offering, is the brand’s contemporary update of the classic field watch formula. Housed in a uniquely shaped 42mm matte stainless steel case with 200m of water resistance, it takes the century-old formula and modernizes it for the 21st Century. Underneath the recessed sapphire crystal are three dial colors - standard black, compass green, and shovelhead - with a 12-3-6-9 “Explorer” version and a broad skeleton marker variant called the “Tactical.” With its fixed strap bars, the Onward Future is purpose-built to hold up to any adventure. Inside the Onward is the Ronda Calibre 513, a Swiss-made quartz caliber. It features three hands, one jewel, and hacking with an expected accuracy of -10/+20 seconds per month and a battery life of approximately 45 months. Veteran-owned Prevail strives to redefine what a military-inspired watch can be. With a unique contemporary design language and capable specifications, the young brand is unafraid to chart its own path. The Tampa Bay-based brand donates a portion of its profits to the Heart and Armor Foundation, a ...

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Editorial: LVMH Reveals Movement Strategy with Bulgari Serpenti Automatic SJX Watches
Bulgari Serpenti Automatic Bulgari’s flagship Jan 24, 2025

Editorial: LVMH Reveals Movement Strategy with Bulgari Serpenti Automatic

Bulgari’s flagship launch at the recent LVMH Watch Week was the mechanical version of its signature watch, the Serpenti Automatic. Available as a Seduttori with a conventional bracelet and a Tubogas multi-loop bracelet version, the Serpenti Automatic is stays faithful to the model in terms of design. But the new Serpenti is notable for what’s inside: the newly developed Lady Solotempo BVS100 movement, which reveals LVMH’s plans for its watch division, which is now led by Frédéric Arnault. Conceived as a compact workhorse with a useful 50-hour power reserve, the BVS100 is an industrial calibre created by Bulgari, but it will be produced by sister brand Zenith, creating an “ecosystem” for the LVMH watch brands. The Serpenti Tubogas Automatic with its distinctive flexible, looped bracelet Initial thoughts The Serpenti is iconic Bulgari, and the BVS100 is an interesting, albeit industrial and cost-efficient, movement. But the most interesting section in the announcement of the Serpenti Automatic wasn’t about the watches themselves, but the background of the calibre: “The BVS100… developed and currently produced by Bvlgari in Le Sentier, is expected to be included in the future catalog of in-house movements available to other LVMH group Maisons and to be manufactured by Zenith… Bvlgari is proud to contribute to the manufacturing ecosystem established by LVMH in support of Watchmaking excellence and craftsmanship in Switzerland.” The “catalog of in-house ...

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Louis Vuitton Surprises with Tambour Convergence SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Surprises Jan 21, 2025

Louis Vuitton Surprises with Tambour Convergence

Louis Vuitton starts 2025 with a surprise, the Tambour Convergence. Modelled on traditional “digital” pocket watches, the Convergence indicates the time with discs visible in a pair of small windows at the top of the face. The unusual design, coupled with the compact, 37 mm case gives the Convergence an elegant, vintage-inspired aesthetic atypical of Louis Vuitton. Equally notable is the newly-developed in-house calibre inside, the LFT MA01.01. The movement is of a family of movements that will underpin Louis Vuitton’s timepieces going forward; variants of the movement are also found in the new Tambour Taiko Spin Time. Initial thoughts The Convergence is unexpected because it isn’t typical of Louis Vuitton. The vintage-inspired styling and proportions are almost antithesis of the brand’s conventional look, which was historically colourful and modern. Even though such territory is relatively new to Louis Vuitton, the Convergence is executed well. The design has intrinsic appeal, and shows off good proportions and details. The Convergence demonstrates the refined style of the redesigned Tambour case, which barely resembles the chunky original that was often thick and paired with narrow lugs. While I myself liked the quirk look of the original Tambour, the revamped model is undoubtedly more elegant and consequently will have a wider appeal. The Convergence debuts in pink gold The Convergence does well in almost all respects – fit, finish, design, and dimensions ...

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Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Purple SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Jan 17, 2025

Breitling Introduces Navitimer B01 “Translucid” Purple

Breitling’s latest take on its signature aviator’s chronograph is the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Cortina Watch, a limited edition for the Singapore-based retailer. The 50-piece run retains the classic Navitimer design featuring the hallmark slide rule bezel, but with a striking dial in satiné translucid purple, essentially translucent lacquer. The purple dial is matched with red gold appliqués that include the Breitling emblem, contrasting against the dial’s vibrant hue. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest offering is one of many (maybe too many) dial variations within the Navitimer collection, such as the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions and the Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary”, but it’s distinctive for the vivid dial colour that is seldom used by Breitling. Admittedly, the colour is hardly traditional for a pilot’s watch, but it is appealing and refreshes the familiar Navitimer look. This edition is based on the 43 mm model, which some might find too big. The 41 mm Navitimer, which is also identical in size to the vintage original, is more wearable. The new Navitimer is priced at S$13,980 (equivalent to about US$10,000), which is comparable to the regular production version. Given the high-spec, in-house chronograph movement, the Navitimer B01 is reasonably priced. Even though the limited editions are arguably too numerous, this edition manages to stand out. Exquisite movement Dial colour aside, the Cortina edition is identical to the standar...

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Breaking: Swatch Now Offers Official Rubber MoonSwatch Straps Online Fratello
Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch Jan 14, 2025

Breaking: Swatch Now Offers Official Rubber MoonSwatch Straps Online

Which strap do you wear your MoonSwatch on? Are you still using the original strap, or have you ordered some third-party options? Well, listen up because, in a surprise move, Swatch opened an online strap store specifically for the Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch. The two-piece straps are made of rubber and have a two-tone design, […] Visit Breaking: Swatch Now Offers Official Rubber MoonSwatch Straps Online to read the full article.

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Nothing Is Certain In 2025 Except Death And Taxes…And Rolex Price Increases Fratello
Rolex Price Increases American statesman Jan 11, 2025

Nothing Is Certain In 2025 Except Death And Taxes…And Rolex Price Increases

American statesman and Founding Father Benjamin Franklin once famously wrote, “…in this world, nothing is certain except death and taxes.” Franklin died in 1790, so the phrase doesn’t include Rolex price increases at the beginning of every year. Now, going through the entire Rolex catalog is an impossible task. Even if it weren’t, it would […] Visit Nothing Is Certain In 2025 Except Death And Taxes…And Rolex Price Increases to read the full article.

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First Look – Tissot Expands its Accessible Le Locle Collection with Two New Models Monochrome
Tissot Expands Jan 9, 2025

First Look – Tissot Expands its Accessible Le Locle Collection with Two New Models

In 2023, the Tissot Le Locle collection marked its 20th anniversary, and with the addition of the two new models, it now comprises 30 references. Renowned for its classic yet engaging design, the collection offers elegant, timeless elements and practical features, appealing to those seeking a refined, understated timepiece with an exceptional price-quality ratio. Let’s […]

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Haute-Rive Honoris 1 Reviewed by Tim Mosso: Impressive 1,000-hour Power Reserve plus Flying Tourbillon Quill & Pad
Oris 1 Reviewed Jan 4, 2025

Haute-Rive Honoris 1 Reviewed by Tim Mosso: Impressive 1,000-hour Power Reserve plus Flying Tourbillon

While Tim Mosso has seen watches with long power reserves, huge power reserves, and absurd power reserves, the result always looked as outwardly awkward as it was technically adept. Every watch he has encountered with a power reserve beyond ten days was massive. But the Haute-Rive Honoris 1 is a compact marvel through clever design.

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Finding Joy in Watches Again: Plans for 2025 and Beyond Two Broke Watch Snobs
Dec 30, 2024

Finding Joy in Watches Again: Plans for 2025 and Beyond

It's been almost ten years since we've started the Two Broke Watch Snobs podcast and when I sit back to think about that, I can't help but realize how much this hobby has monopolized my time and headspace. It's not really a bad thing, well not all the time. But this year I really tried to be mindful about how much this deep interest impacted my day-to-day life, especially all the time that it takes up between family and work obligations. The truth is-and I think deep down we all know this-watch collecting is an exceedingly unnecessary endeavor when you think about life at a macroscopic scale.

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Treating Yourself To A Watch For Christmas - Featuring Omega, Bulova, King Seiko, And More Fratello
Bulova King Seiko Dec 24, 2024

Treating Yourself To A Watch For Christmas - Featuring Omega, Bulova, King Seiko, And More

Christmas and New Year’s are a wonderful time for many. The holiday season is often a chance to reconnect with family or celebrate and reflect on the year. It is also a fantastic opportunity to treat yourself! Buying a watch for Christmas is always a good idea, so today, I’m sharing five attainable watches that […] Visit Treating Yourself To A Watch For Christmas - Featuring Omega, Bulova, King Seiko, And More to read the full article.

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Up Close: Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
Voutilainen Dec 13, 2024

Up Close: Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary

The Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary is the most complicated serial-production watch in the Voutilainen catalogue. Modelled on Kari Voutilainen’s first-ever watch, a pocket watch made in 1994, the anniversary tourbillon is a wristwatch that is typical Voutilainen in style and substance. The design is classical while the quality of execution is exceptionally high. Initial thoughts The anniversary tourbillon is predictable in a good way – it looks, feels, and functions as you would expect from a Voutilainen. Even at arm’s length the quality of the watch is apparent. The guilloche on the dial is refined and tidy, while the movement decoration is impeccable. Zoom in and the movement decoration gets even better, which is unsurprising since Voutilainen likely offers the best movement decoration that’s done in an artisanal manner yet at scale (the brand makes perhaps 100 watches a year). The overall quality of the watch is outstanding, and the movement especially so. The details of the bridges are perfectly executed, while the steel parts are elegantly shaped and flawlessly polished. As impressive as the decoration itself is the fact that Voutilainen can do this consistently across all its watches for a reasonable-ish price – a testament to the company that Mr Voutilainen has built. As a wristwatch, however, the movement lacks the scale of the pocket watch. As such, the wristwatch movement feels a little constricted compared to the pocket watch.Everything is clos...

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New: Zenith DEFY Extreme Jungle Deployant
Zenith DEFY Extreme Jungle DEPLOYANT Dec 7, 2024

New: Zenith DEFY Extreme Jungle

The Zenith DEFY Extreme Jungle is a limited edition timepiece that draws inspiration from the untamed energy and captivating mystery of the jungle. As the final installment in Zenith's series of watches inspired by extreme environments, this model follows the Desert and Glacier editions. Limited to just 50 pieces, the DEFY Extreme Jungle combines innovative design with high-performance features, making it a notable addition to Zenith's DEFY collection.

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Introducing: Two Limited-Edition Farer Endurance Models In Gunmetal And Jade Fratello
Farer Endurance Models Dec 7, 2024

Introducing: Two Limited-Edition Farer Endurance Models In Gunmetal And Jade

Farer is one of the OGs of the microbrand universe. Founded in 2015, the brand prides itself on British design and Swiss production. Over the years, Farer found a style of its own and a clever position within the greater watch market, making it a household name today. This week, the brand announced a new […] Visit Introducing: Two Limited-Edition Farer Endurance Models In Gunmetal And Jade to read the full article.

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Explained: Dial Making at Rolex SJX Watches
Rolex One aspect Dec 6, 2024

Explained: Dial Making at Rolex

One aspect of a watch that is often overlooked - but ironically the one that is front and centre - is the dial. While often conservative in terms of design, Rolex is perhaps at its most expressive in the details of its dials, which blend classic elements with modern touches, all accomplished by modern manufacturing techniques and finishes. Even though a dial may seem simple on its face compared to the moving parts of the movement, dials are complex. Much goes into making a high quality dial, the dial blank, applied ornaments, surface finishing, gold indices, and more recently even grand feu enamel. A diamond-set dial for the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Unsurprisingly Rolex takes dial making very seriously. Reflecting its long-term vision, Rolex has invested tremendously in every aspect of manufacturing wristwatches, including producing its own dials. Dial manufacturing of the highest quality, and at scale, is a challenge few have truly mastered. Rolex accomplished that with a dedicated dial-making facility in the Chêne-Bourg district of Geneva, located about 15 minutes from Rolex headquarters, where some 500 people work exclusively on dial conception, prototyping, and production. Notably, the Chêne-Bourg facility also does gem setting as well as the production of Cerachrom components like the GMT-Master II bezel insert. In-house dial making has given Rolex control of the entire process, allowing the brand to innovate, even in rethinking the very foundation of a dial, n...

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#TBT Reinventing My Tastes With Cartier Vermeil Trinity Watches Fratello
Cartier Vermeil Trinity Watches I Nov 28, 2024

#TBT Reinventing My Tastes With Cartier Vermeil Trinity Watches

I will be highly opinionated today, and I am ready to take a few punches if you disagree with me. No matter how simple a Cartier design is, it’s heavy. Heavy for self-esteem, that is. There are exceptions, but generally speaking, I don’t see Cartier as a door-opening brand for watch collecting, whether modern or […] Visit #TBT Reinventing My Tastes With Cartier Vermeil Trinity Watches to read the full article.

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Just My Type! An Interview With Watch Typography Designer Samuel Baker Fratello
Nov 24, 2024

Just My Type! An Interview With Watch Typography Designer Samuel Baker

If you follow my writing, you know I am an advocate for typography in watch design. It is an often-overlooked element that can make or break a watch. While I was developing my watch, typography designer Samuel Baker appeared on my radar. We ended up collaborating, resulting in a fully tailor-made typeface for my fledgling […] Visit Just My Type! An Interview With Watch Typography Designer Samuel Baker to read the full article.

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