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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

News: Casio To Release Its First Functional Ring Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Nov 22, 2024

News: Casio To Release Its First Functional Ring Watch

Seizing the final months of the 2024 trend cycle, Casio joins the ranks of watch brands looking to expand their product possibilities beyond the wrist. Close on the heels of the recent Timex and Maison Margiela MM6 collaboration, which included a watch ring, Casio has shrunken down its own legacy design, ready to chart the next frontier of watch-wearing real estate: the finger.  Though the Casio legacy extends all the way back to 1946, the watch branch of the business has been celebrating its 50th birthday with a number of special-edition designs. The brand’s latest commemorative design shrinks down its familiar octagonal case shape to just below an inch stature, and is crafted entirely of stainless steel. According to the brand’s website, the ability to create this tiny, functioning timepiece is thanks to novel innovations in advanced metal molding technology.  This process utilizes Metal Injection Molding to re-create the familiar and nostalgia-inducing Casio design in ring form. The caveat with this process is that the case, back cover, and ring are all molded in one continuous form, and the ring size is set to 10.5 U.S. sizing. This is something of a blow to my fellow small-ring-size friends, though the brand details that each ring will ship with adjustment spacers to accommodate more sizes.  Unlike the initial set of watch rings released by Casio last year, which were essentially toy replicas of the brand’s most iconic models, the CRW-001-1JR is a fully funct...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Certified Pre-Owned SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Certified Pre-Owned Vacheron Nov 11, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Certified Pre-Owned

Vacheron Constantin (VC) has just announced its Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) programme. Focused on recent VC timepieces, the CPO offerings will all be certified and serviced by the brand, and accompanied by a two-year warranty. The CPO programme will also allow clients to trade-in their VC timepieces for a new model. The CPO programme is making its debut with Watchfinder, the pre-owned watch merchant owned by VC’s parent company, the Swiss luxury group Richemont. In time to come, it will progressively be rolled out at VC boutiques, third-party retailers, and even auction houses. Each CPO watch will be accompanied by a two-year international warranty, a “Digital Passport”, and an VC guarantee letter. Watches sold through the CPO programme will be delivered in a VC pouch with a VC seal tag. Strictly speaking, CPO programme isn’t the first time VC is offering pre-owned watches. For several years, select boutiques have carried watches from Les Collectionneurs, vintage VC watches restored and certified by the manufacture. Practically all of the Les Collectionneurs watches are over 40 years old. On the other hand, the CPO programme is distinct as it covers more recent timepieces, including current models.  

Louis Erard’s Régulateur with an Engraved, Gilt Dial SJX Watches
Louis Erard s Régulateur Nov 7, 2024

Louis Erard’s Régulateur with an Engraved, Gilt Dial

The Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is a vintage-inspired take on Louis Erard’s signature regulator wristwatch. The “sector” dial has a grained black finish with engraved markings that are gold-plated, bringing to mind vintage “gilt” dials. Part of the brand’s Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, the new Le Régulateur shares the same case design and specifications with the recent “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator. Initial thoughts While Louis Erard is best known for its collaboration with independent watchmakers, such as Konstantin Chaykin and Kudoke, it offers a wider range of accessibly-priced regulator-style watches. And the Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is no different. It’s a fresh take on the vintage-inspired “sector” dial, combining the signature regulator display with rose-gilt engraved markings on a grained black dial. Priced at CHF2,900, the Gravé Noir stays within Louis Erard’s typical price range. It stands out from the competition in this price segment with the unconventional time display on a vintage-inspired dial. Like the brand’s other offerings, it is good value. It also shares the weaknesses of Louis Erard’s other regulator models, namely a thick case. Sector dial The Gravé Noir has the same dimensions as the rest of the Le Régulateur line with a simple, polished steel case measuring 39 mm by 12.82 mm. Inside is a self-winding Sellita SW266-1 that sports a rotor with the brand logo but is otherwise no frills. The movement has 38 hour...

REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Latest Prospex Alpinist Australasia Limited Edition WatchAdvice
Seiko s Latest Prospex Alpinist Nov 2, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Latest Prospex Alpinist Australasia Limited Edition

The Seiko Prospex Alpinist Australasia Limited Edition combines rugged functionality with a distinctive design, featuring a dial inspired by the Australian landscape! What We Love: The polished finishing of the case and bezel The red dial has many different layers to it with different patterns and finishing techniques. Great value for money, especially with the increase in power reserve with 6R35 movement and open case back. What We Don’t: The leather strap can be a bit stiff initially Lack of a steel bracelet option for the watch Cyclops date window could be slightly larger to allow for better viewing angles. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Seiko Alpinist is a timepiece that has gained global recognition for meeting the needs of adventurers. The timepiece has long held a special place in Seiko’s lineup, and it is well known for meeting the needs of mountain climbers and outdoor sports enthusiasts. The Seiko Alpinist was first introduced in 1959, and back then, it was the brand’s first attempt at creating a timepiece specifically designed for mountaineers. During the 1960s and 70s, Japan’s hiking culture was thriving. So Seiko responded by creating a beautiful timepiece that considered what an adventurer’s watch would entail. The timepiece was designed to endure the harsh conditions while still being stylistic! The first Seiko Alpinist released in 1959 was named Laurel Alpinist. The very fi...

Zenith and Porter-Yoshida Pilot Watches in Green Ceramic SJX Watches
Zenith Oct 30, 2024

Zenith and Porter-Yoshida Pilot Watches in Green Ceramic

Porter, a Japanese cult brand famous for its functional nylon bags, has lent its signature colours to Zenith to create the Pilot Central Automatic Porter and the Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph Porter. The new Pilot duo retain the familiar aviation-inspired design, but in green with orange accents, including for the first time a case in khaki green ceramic. Both models are delivered with two straps: a conventional Cordura-effect rubber strap and a green nylon strap made by Porter. Initial thoughts While the Pilot Porter isn’t an iconic classic like Zenith’s El Primero, it is a unique take on the traditional aviator’s watch that is different but still functional, not unlike Porter bags that are popular for their no-frills quality. The green and orange livery is appealing and avoids the usual pilot’s watch look, but remains entirely legible and utilitarian. Priced at US$11,300 for the time-only variant and US$15,500 for the chronograph, the Pilot Porter is priced comparably to the equivalent regular-production Pilot models. Though both are more expensive than Zenith’s offerings in steel, they are priced reasonably enough considering the material and movement, as well as the competition. Khaki green Porter is the most famous label owned by Yoshida & Co., a Japanese maker of luggage and bags. Usually in dark-coloured nylon with contrast-colour lining, Porter bags are multi-pocketed and useful (and also quite pricey for nylon bags). The Pilot Porter models adopt th...

Bremont Partners with Jimmy Chin on a Pair of Limited Edition Terra Nova Chronographs Worn & Wound
Bremont Partners Oct 28, 2024

Bremont Partners with Jimmy Chin on a Pair of Limited Edition Terra Nova Chronographs

Bremont has undergone a drastic brand transformation in the last year or so, moving away from what many would consider their rather reserved British design language to something more daring and youthful. The Terra Nova could really be considered the focal point of this transition, a design nobody was expecting, with its oval cushion case, large stylized Arabic numerals, and sub-dials rivaling the contrast found on some of the most die-hard chronographs on the market.  During one of the busiest watch release times of the year, Bremont has quietly unveiled two new variants of the Terra Nova in collaboration with renowned climber, explorer, and photographer Jimmy Chin. One with a full 18ct rose gold case limited to only 15 pieces, and one with rose gold accents limited to 100 pieces. The design of these watches is also inspired by military pocket watches from the 20th century, giving the watch a nostalgic exterior appearance but with the capabilities one would expect from a feature packed tool watch.  While I found the Terra Nova Power Reserve to be a rather polarizing design when I had a chance to go hands-on with one earlier this year, I feel that this chronograph version brings a level of organization to the dial and case not found on the other variants – with the full gold and gold accented appearance highlighting these aspects in a positive way. Bremont decided on the BE-50AV caliber to power this watch, which is actually based on the ETA 7750 and heavily modified to...

Seiko’s New Prospex SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 Dive Watches Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko s New Prospex SPB481 Oct 27, 2024

Seiko’s New Prospex SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 Dive Watches

Seiko has an enduring lineup of "greatest hits" dive watches-from the rugged Turtle and Tuna to the angular Samurai. Yet with the release of the new Seiko Prospex models (SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485), Seiko introduces an eye-catching design that’s distinctly different from anything we’ve seen in its catalog, while still staying true to its tool-watch roots. I'm still not sure how I feel about these but I like that Seiko took a significant design leap with these new divers.

Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director of TAG Heuer, believes “consumer interest is improving in quartz” Time+Tide
TAG Heuer believes “consumer interest Oct 23, 2024

Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director of TAG Heuer, believes “consumer interest is improving in quartz”

If interesting design now trumps mechanical innovation in watchmaking, quartz technology like TAG Heuer's Solargraph has an important edge, Biebuyck explains.The post Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director of TAG Heuer, believes “consumer interest is improving in quartz” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab SJX Watches
Massena Lab Continuing Oct 17, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab

Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...

First Look – Hamilton teams up with Engineered Garments, Presenting a 36mm Khaki Field Titanium Monochrome
Hamilton teams up Oct 17, 2024

First Look – Hamilton teams up with Engineered Garments, Presenting a 36mm Khaki Field Titanium

Hamilton is well known for its American military-inspired Khaki Field watches, which are among the best values in the business. Titanium variants are nothing new to the expansive series, but a collaboration with New York design house Engineered Garments brings a small(ish), all-titanium automatic that’s stripped to the essentials. It doesn’t reinvent the wheel or […]

In-Depth: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with White Lacquer Dial SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Oct 14, 2024

In-Depth: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with White Lacquer Dial

In late 2023, a then-unknown Moonwatch with a white dial was seen on the wrist of actor Daniel Craig. The mysterious watch turned out to be the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a “lacquered white dial” that was officially unveiled in March 2024. Notably, it was released a regular production, instead of limited edition. An iconic design, the Omega Speedmaster Professional is best known as the Moonwatch with the classic black dial. The model’s relative ubiquity – the Speedmaster has been in production for nearly seven decades – makes dial variants compelling (but also numerous, often as limited editions) as a refreshing alternative to the quintessential black dial. Initial Impressions The subject of significant attention on social media when it first emerged on Mr Craig’s wrist, the new Moonwatch is a surprising release that goes beyond a cosmetic tweak of dial colour. It sports tangible differences to the dial furnishing that provide a sense of refinement over the regular black dial, namely the lacquered finishing and applied indices. And even though the dial is recognisably different, and arguably improved in terms of details, it retains the signature elements of the classic Moonwatch, including the stepped construction. Beyond that, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard Moonwatch with black dial, which isn’t a bad thing because the “standard” model is now in its latest generation. The classic Moonwatch was revamped in 2021 with subtle yet pe...

Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years of Patrimony with Ora ïto Edition SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years Oct 10, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years of Patrimony with Ora ïto Edition

Vacheron Constantin is marking the 20th anniversary of its vintage-inspired line of dress watches with a limited edition conceived by French designer Ora Ito (whose studio is known as Ora ïto). The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora ïto is all about “Simplexity”, Mr Ito’s preferred design philosophy: a simple appearance that belies complexity. Although the Patrimony looks like a simple, conventional model at first glance, the dial incorporates additional details visible only upon close inspection, such as the wave-like concentric pattern that decorate its surface. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin is considered one of the “Holy Trinity” in Swiss watchmaking, and the Patrimony Ora ïto demonstrates why. It is a simple watch, showing just the time and date, yet presented with an intricately detailed dial and excellent in-house movement. Moreover, the Patrimony Self-Winding model is based on the ref. 6187 of 1957 but the design still feels current and avoids seeming like a vintage remake. The Patrimony Ora ïto costs US$35,300, which is fair value all things considered. It’s a small run of 100 watches with an appealing, unique dial design and it retails for less than a regular production Patek Philippe Calatrava. Simplexity The intricately patterned dial is gilded brass and stamped with a concentric patterns that’s meant to evoke ripples on the water. The pattern starts at the centre and continues to the periphery, with a subtle break to form th...

No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is A Fallacy Fratello
Oct 9, 2024

No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is A Fallacy

Let me put it this way: if you want a crown on the dial, looking at a shield instead doesn’t cut it. Luckily, the “Age of Alternatives” seems to have ended. Yes, some references still play hard to get, but more and more watches that were in high demand over the last few post-COVID years […] Visit No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is A Fallacy to read the full article.

Czapek Unveils A Flamboyant Version Of Its Antarctique For Milan’s GMT Great Masters Of Time Fratello
Czapek Unveils Oct 7, 2024

Czapek Unveils A Flamboyant Version Of Its Antarctique For Milan’s GMT Great Masters Of Time

Whenever Czapek announces a new Antarctique, I am all ears. The brand’s take on a modern sports watch with an integrated bracelet and a touch of ’70s flair is one of my favorite models in this genre. The design, the movement, and the craftsmanship that goes into creating these watches make them stand out immediately. […] Visit Czapek Unveils A Flamboyant Version Of Its Antarctique For Milan’s GMT Great Masters Of Time to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Funky 70s Hamilton, a Genuinely Rare Casio Calculator Watch, and a Seiko Bullhead Chrono Worn & Wound
Hamilton Oct 4, 2024

eBay Finds: A Funky 70s Hamilton, a Genuinely Rare Casio Calculator Watch, and a Seiko Bullhead Chrono

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! New Old Stock Royce Here is a nice little vintage Royce that looks to be New Old Stock. The unpolished 34mm stainless steel case has a pleasing rounded design with really nice fancy lugs that feature solid attached bars. As such, you’ll need a nato strap or one that is suited for welded strap bars. The salmon colored dial looks brand new (as it should), with stylized Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9. It has slim leaf hands, with a stylish sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The watch comes with the original Royce hangtag, which is a nice touch. Seller states the watch runs, but no movement picture. View auction here Seiko Bullhead 6138-0049  The Seiko 6138-0049 Bullhead is a great beast of a 1970’s knuckle dragger, but you just have to love this watch. Seiko made two versions, the black and blue, and the brown and gold. This brown and gold dialed version personifies the 1970’s look if you ask me. The huge steel case shows some wear but is unpolished and still shows the original brushed finish and sharp edges. The dial looks original and is in fantastic shape, same with the nicely lume filled hour and minute hands. These are called “Bullhead” because of the 12 o’clock location...

Nomos Unveils a New Movement with Two Dates at their Annual Forum Worn & Wound
Nomos Unveils Oct 4, 2024

Nomos Unveils a New Movement with Two Dates at their Annual Forum

I attended the 5th year of Nomos’s annual forum this week, and even though the theme was about design and colors, it was the new manual winding movement that received the most attention.  As a seasoned writer who has closely followed Nomos’s trajectory, I often find myself anticipating the brand’s future moves. However, even with my extensive experience, the unveiling of the Tangente 2date ($2,760-$3,020) caught me off guard. I will be very open about what resonated with me, and what left me puzzled. Let’s begin with the movement itself. The DUW 4601 is a new manual winding caliber with a slim height of 2.8mm, and 52 hours of power reserve. Speaking with Mirko Heyne, head of research and development at Nomos, I learned that the previous manual winding caliber, DUW 4101, had the same height with a normal date complication, 42 hours of power reserve, and not the nice finishing we see on the new 4601. Both have the Swing System, the proprietary escapement developed by Nomos. In summary, the new movement delivers extra power reserve, better finishing, and has an additional date complication while still remaining the same height as the previous movement – that’s because the patented date wheel is integrated into the mainplate. Another significant technical advancement in the 4601 caliber is the quick set date mechanism. You can easily jump forward with the crown in the second position.  When I saw the standalone movement with Mirko, my first impression was the sli...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Oct 3, 2024

Exploring and Photographing Art Deco Gems in Los Angeles with March LA.B’s New AM2 GMT

Los Angeles, California instantly conjures images of sea, sun, and starlets. However L.A. is also a treasure trove of architectural gems, many of which have become icons of both film, design, and culture. Many of these buildings were either designed during or heavily influenced by the Art Deco movement of the 1920s and ‘30s. March LA.B is a French watch company that’s deeply inspired by the design cues emanating from Southern California in the early 20th century-specifically in Los Angeles-hence the “LA” embedded within their name. Their watch design nods to the great architectural icons built during this booming area oozing with style, sophistication, and a certain je ne sais quoi. We took March LA.B’s newest model, the AM2 GMT, along for the ride while photographing three of L.A.’s most iconic Art Deco architectural gems, the Los Angeles Central Library, the CalEdison Building, and the Griffith Observatory. Coming all the way from Biarritz, France (a.k.a. the B in their name), the AM2 GMT was created to be an ideal companion for both cross-continental travel and curated urban exploration. The post Exploring and Photographing Art Deco Gems in Los Angeles with March LA.B’s New AM2 GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.