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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222: I Never Thought I’d Want This Watch So Badly Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 I Never Jul 6, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222: I Never Thought I’d Want This Watch So Badly

Since the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 is descended from a steel sports watch, and was an early inspiration for the Overseas collection, it might seem that launching the first new model in 37 years would lean heavily on the “sports” aspect of the watch. But design and aesthetic are clearly the motivating factor for Vacheron Constantin deciding to lead with a yellow gold edition, explains Joshua Munchow, one of many fans.

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Review Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Jul 2, 2024

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Review

IWC released a new generation of its Ingenieur collection in 2023, at what many would consider the tail end of the integrated-luxury-sport-watch craze that gripped the industry heading into 2020. At the time, it was tempting to say that IWC was a bit late to the punch here, especially considering the Schaffhausen-based brand's enviable position of having an original Gérald Genta design from the ‘70s to utilize. In hindsight, however, it seems that IWC was playing the long game, and wasn’t interested in rushing out a throwback type of release. Instead, IWC took a bit more time and released a modern rendition of the original Genta design, released in 1976, as a foundation for years to come. The result is the Reference 3289 Ingenieur, and it’s a watch that looks to do more than merely capitalize on a passing trend.  There are two watches with which you likely associate the name Gérald Genta, and those are the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Genta penned both of these now iconic designs, in 1972 and 1976 respectively, and they have served as cornerstones in creating the premium sport-watch genre as a whole, as well as helped to spawn the subset of integrated-bracelet designs within it. But those are far from the only watches that can be attributed to Genta, and in fact, aren’t even the only integrated-bracelet sport-watch designs to come out of that era. In 1976, he also designed a new Ingenieur for IWC, known as the SL Ref. 1832 (tha...

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad Jul 1, 2024

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad

For Ulysse Nardin, Watches & Wonders 2024 was all about the Freak S Nomad, which made its debut in a booth that featured a massive replica of the watch’s movement. While the Nomad is essentially just a new livery for an existing model, the aesthetic changes, which include a rotating guilloche dial, give the watch a sportier feel that suits the design. The Nomad is the second model in the Freak S collection after the original of 2022, and the latest in a long line of innovative watches that dates back to 2001. Interestingly, the Nomad is the first Freak to feature artisanal decoration, in the form of the guilloche dial, as compared to past models that have been more about technology than technique. Initial thoughts Mechanical watchmaking technology is fundamentally archaic, largely unchanged for more than a century. As a result, futuristically styled watches can easily come across as superficial. So it’s refreshing to consider the Nomad, which backs up its sci-fi styling with 21st-century materials and truly unique movement architecture that manages to be highly differentiated even a quarter-century after its launch. On paper, the Nomad is a large watch at 45 mm in diameter and 17 mm thick. Both of these numbers surprised me because after putting it on my wrist, it looks and feels smaller than it is. This is due, in part, to the lightweight titanium case, the muted colour palette, and the visual depth of the dial. Furthermore, the eye is naturally drawn to the central ...

First Look – New Colours for Hamilton’s Accessible Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm Monochrome
Hamilton s Accessible Khaki Field Jun 28, 2024

First Look – New Colours for Hamilton’s Accessible Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm

Released in 2018, the Khaki Field Mechanical quickly became a hit for Hamilton. And when you wear this watch, you quickly understand why. The essence of a military/field watch with a vintage-inspired design, it is rugged, simple, legible, well proportioned and comes with a genuinely accessible price tag. And it sure looks good! Following the […]

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Finding A Solid Gold Sports Watch Under €10K - Featuring Omega, Bvlgari, And IWC Fratello
Bvlgari Jun 26, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Finding A Solid Gold Sports Watch Under €10K - Featuring Omega, Bvlgari, And IWC

I will admit to being slightly too optimistic here, a usual fault of mine when attempting a pre-owned search. But that’s a personality trait I’ve acquired after working in sales for more than 20 years, and I consider it a prerequisite for success. Still, finding a solid gold sports watch under €10K is possible. Gold […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Finding A Solid Gold Sports Watch Under €10K - Featuring Omega, Bvlgari, And IWC to read the full article.

Singer Reimagined Expands their 1969 Collection Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Carrera Jun 20, 2024

Singer Reimagined Expands their 1969 Collection

There is almost no end to watches inspired by motorsport, but very few watches take that inspiration and do anything truly unique with it. Just yesterday, we brought you news of a new TAG Heuer Carrera that, in my opinion, is something of a by-the-numbers collaboration between an automaker and a luxury watch brand. It has design notes that convey a watch that’s sporty and modern, the “Porsche” wordmark prominently featured on the case itself, and it’s a Carrera, a collection that is naturally imbued with racing history. I’ve written about a lot of watches that say “Porsche” on them in one way or another, but it’s honestly difficult to tell them apart after a while. Singer Reimagined takes an entirely different approach.  The brand itself is part of the Singer Group, which rose to prominence with their bespoke restorations of vintage Porsche 911s. What Singer brings to the table is a very unique and highly specialized perspective. You might love it or hate it, but they don’t suffer from the same problems that inevitably plague large luxury watch brands, namely casting an impossibly wide net, resulting in products that, even when ostensibly “niche,” have a certain generic quality to them. Being intrinsically connected to the car world, it’s no surprise that Singer only makes chronographs. Expanding on the very idea of the chronograph in an adventurous way is part of what makes Singer Reimagined exciting. Their chronographs use unconventional movement...

Introducing – MeisterSinger Releases Two Vibrant Unomat Limited Editions Monochrome
MeisterSinger Jun 18, 2024

Introducing – MeisterSinger Releases Two Vibrant Unomat Limited Editions

MeisterSinger hardly needs an introduction. This award-winning German brand is renowned for its distinctive single-hand time display design, which makes it instantly recognizable. The latest additions to the MeisterSinger lineup are blacked-out versions of the robust and solidly built Unomat series, featuring generous splashes of colour – with a twist. The two new Unomat watches […]

Introducing: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops For Collective Fratello
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Jun 18, 2024

Introducing: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops For Collective

Our friends at Collective Horology are no strangers to awesome collab releases. The team seems to possess the diplomatic skills required to push some of the greatest watchmakers to do things outside of their usual scope. In the case of Armin Strom, a brand that doesn’t shy away from combining tradition with radical new ideas […] Visit Introducing: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops For Collective to read the full article.

Collective and Armin Strom are Back with a Second LE Worn & Wound
Armin Strom are Back Jun 18, 2024

Collective and Armin Strom are Back with a Second LE

One of the things we love about independent watchmaking is the ability for a brand to move swiftly on a project based on feedback from their clients, collaborators, and the watch world writ large. A new release from Collective and Armin Strom is a great example of how one good idea can quickly beget another, and in the grand scheme of things it really doesn’t even take that long. Not even two years ago, Collective and Armin Strom released the P.03 Gravity Equal Force, a creative take on one of Armin Strom’s signature designs. The concept behind the original release was to make this bit of high end watchmaking into something truly tactical, and its aesthetic was inspired by apparel, packs, and EDC tools in its finishing, color, and overall vibe. This new release, the P.03 “Night Ops,” takes that idea a step further, and does what arguably should have been done the first time around: blacking out the case.  It seems obvious, right? When you think “tactical” in watchmaking, you probably think “black,” at least to some extent. I have to say, though, that until I heard Collective and Armin Strom were making this new edition, the thought never actually crossed my mind that the original should have been black. I think that speaks to the genuine novelty of that first watch. It’s so rare for a haute horlogerie brand like Armin Strom to dabble in EDC inspiration that the first try really sold me. The new Night Ops variant feels like a more fully realized version o...

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Jun 17, 2024

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders”

The recent debut of the Escale Time-Only was actually the second instalment of the design’s revival. Earlier this year, Louis Vuitton presented the Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders”, also time-only but with exceptionally elaborate dials decorated in a variety of artisanal crafts – all executed in-house at La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the brand’s Geneva manufacture. The “cabinet” is a trio of watches with dials featuring Asian motifs inspired by a collection of tsuba, or Japanese sword guards, owned by Gaston-Louis Vuitton, the grandson of Louis Vuitton. Ranging from enamelling to marquetry to hammering, the dial decoration is intricate and three-dimensional. From left: Koi’s Garden, Dragon’s Cloud, and Snake’s Jungle Initial thoughts Like the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour, the Cabinet of Wonders is a tangible realisation of LFT’s swift buildup of an in-house métiers d’art workshop that encompasses enamelling, engraving, and guilloche. The métiers d’art workshop is just one facet of Louis Vuitton’s ambitious, wide-ranging development of its watchmaking division, a project that is still a work in progress but advancing at a pace rapid enough that it will go far quickly. The dials are lavish, complex, and finely executed. Although they are each decorated with a variety of techniques, the different textures, colours, and styles complement each other perfectly. The quality of the work is comparable to that of Van Cleef & Arpe...

New: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph ‘La Gara’ dial Deployant
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Jun 15, 2024

New: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph ‘La Gara’ dial

The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph "La Gara Dial" is a classic design and an elegant addition to the Mille Miglia collection. For those who appreciate the romance of the open road and the tick of a classic motorsports chronograph, the "La Gara Dial" is a fitting tribute to the legacy of the Mille Miglia race. Perhaps a nice memorabilia particularly for participants of the race. But for regular watch fans, the watch may appear less competitive in its price category, primarily dragged down by its choice of movement.

Seiko Expands their Astron Range with a Pair of Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Seiko Expands their Astron Range Jun 11, 2024

Seiko Expands their Astron Range with a Pair of Limited Editions

Seiko has recently released two references in their Astron GPS Solar collection. Both models, highlighting the beauty of the night sky, showcase not only the ever-evolving design elements of Seiko, but also the technical prowess of the Japanese brand. First on the list is the Seiko Astron SSH157J1, which has a classic design where the color choices for this watch can really pop. The titanium case is offset by a black ceramic bezel which, in turn, is complemented by the transparent light-blue molded dial, designed to reflect the starry sky and changes depending on the wearer’s wrist position.  The watch is equipped with a dual-curved sapphire crystal, providing clarity and scratch resistance. And at 43.3 mm, it’s a watch with presence that would still be great as part of your daily rotation. In contrast, the Seiko Astron SSJ027J1 is a bit more contemporary. Geometric cases have become more popular over the years and this reference is no exception, showing how a new design can be eye-catching without looking too ostentatious. The SSJ027J1 combines the same colorway as the SSH157J1 (titanium, light-blue, and black) in a more subtle way. This watch clocks in at 41.2mm, giving it some presence on the wrist as well. The SSH157J1 is powered by the Caliber 5X53 GPS Solar movement, which means the watch can adjust to the exact time anywhere in the world using GPS signals that the watch connects to throughout the day. The watch also features a perpetual calendar, automatic time...

Hodinkee Launches their Second Collaboration with French Retailer Merci Worn & Wound
Jun 6, 2024

Hodinkee Launches their Second Collaboration with French Retailer Merci

Hodinkee and Parisian concept shop Merci have just released the Merci Instruments Beaumarchais H02 Limited Edition for Hodinkee for their second collaboration together. You’re undoubtedly familiar with Hodinkee, but for those uninitiated to the Marais-based store, Merci embodies Parisian chic while offering a curated selection of products ranging from home goods to fashion. Through its subsidiary brand, Merci Instruments, the company combines a lighthearted approach to watchmaking with an eye towards the past for inspiration.  The design of the Merci Instruments Beaumarchais H02 Limited Edition reflects a vintage aesthetic reminiscent of 1940s dress watches. Unlike traditional round or square cases, this watch features an octagon-shaped frame, adding a modern twist to its classic inspiration. The 36mm case exhibits multiple layers of depth, with a brushed steel rehaut, an anthracite grey hour track, and a vertically brushed center. Notable design details include the blue-painted seconds hand and the NYC and Paris markings at the 6 o’clock position. The watch is completed with an 18mm Honey Brown leather strap, which softens the angular features of this watch. The Beaumarchais H02 is equipped with the ultra-thin Miyota 9039 automatic caliber, which offers a 42-hour power reserve and ensures the 36mm case remains a sleek 9.8mm thick. The stainless steel 316L case is durable and water-resistant up to 10 ATM while the watch is also equipped with a sapphire crystal, making...

New: Ulysse Nardin updates their OPS capsule collection Deployant
Ulysse Nardin updates their OPS capsule Jun 1, 2024

New: Ulysse Nardin updates their OPS capsule collection

The Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS are the latest additions to the brand's Diver collection, bringing a fresh and utilitarian OPS colorway to these performance-oriented timepieces. The Diver NET OPS is notable for its sustainable construction, featuring a case made from 95% recycled stainless steel and a unique composite material comprising upcycled fishing nets and carbon fibers, offering a robust yet environmentally conscious design. Its 44mm case is complemented by a unidirectional timing bezel crafted from Carbonium, a material known for its strength and lightweight properties derived from the aerospace industry. The Diver X Skeleton OPS, on the other hand, showcases a premium approach with its DLC-coated titanium case and intricate skeletonized design, providing a glimpse into the watch's mechanical intricacies. Both models maintain the brand's commitment to precision and durability, with water resistance suitable for professional diving and a design that's both modern and tactical.

Tissot Introduces an Affordable Skeleton Automatic SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces May 22, 2024

Tissot Introduces an Affordable Skeleton Automatic

Tissot added to the Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette collection of accessibly-priced skeleton watches. Sharing the same exact case design as last year’s updated model, the trio of new additions have open-worked dials that display the inner workings of the Powermatic 80 calibre. Both the styling and movement are no-frills, and matched with a price below US$1,000, making them a good option for the beginner enthusiast. Initial thoughts Tissot is known for affordable Swiss-made watches and the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is exactly that. The novelty of the watch lies in the open dial that reveals the skeleton movement. Although the calibre isn’t fancily executed, it is cleanly finished and provides visual detail that sets this apart from most similarly priced watches. The design is also enhanced by the fact that it doesn’t have a date, which gives the dial a clean, symmetrical appearance. Priced between US$895 and US$975, the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is a good value proposition, especially since skeleton watches are not common in this price segment. Entry-level skeleton While the sporty PRX collection is now its most high profile product, the brand overhauled the Chemin des Tourelles line last year. Named after the street where the Tissot headquarters are located, Chemin des Tourelles is made up of dress watches, with the skeleton model being the top-of-the-line. The Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton has a case that’s 39 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm thick, with a domed ...

Four Unique Lume Dial Watches Worn & Wound
May 12, 2024

Four Unique Lume Dial Watches

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week we take a special journey down the path of lume dial watches. Historically limited in their production and seldom seen on mainstream watches, fully-lumed dials offer exceptional visibility in the dark and represent an aesthetic category of their own. They are most commonly found on sports watches – particularly dive watches – and can typically be sniffed out thanks to the dial’s creamy hue; however we will soon see this is not always the case. These are our picks for some of the most interesting and fun lume dial watches from the Shop. Reach out to our team if you have any questions! The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watch...

17 Day-Date Watches From Under $200 to Over $50,000 Teddy Baldassarre
May 7, 2024

17 Day-Date Watches From Under $200 to Over $50,000

In many ways, we are living in a “less is more” era of watch design, in which watch dials continue to trend toward symmetry and simplicity; an era in which even the humble date window, the simplest and perhaps most utilitarian complication for an everyday-wear watch, has found itself unwelcome to many enthusiasts of this new generation of understated timepieces. And yet, the appeal of the day-date watch - one notch of complication above the simple date-display model, designed to clue in the wearer not just to the date on the calendar but the day of the week - remains strong. From a utility standpoint, it shouldn’t be surprising, especially in our current fast-paced era, in which home-office work and 24/7 connectedness blurs lines between weekdays and weekends more than ever, and forgetting what day it is becomes an issue for more and more people. If you’re in the market for such a watch, or just intrigued by the diverse ways in which a timepiece can display this useful information, check out the list below, in which we spotlight a selection of day-date watches, from entry-level to high luxury, in ascending order of price. Timex Q Timex Inspired SST Price: $179, Case Size: 38 mm, Case Height: 11.5 mm, Lug Width: 18 mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Quartz Analog Timex has had success in recent years in reproducing some of its cult-favorite vintage models for today’s increasingly savvy collectors seeking out the sweet spot between his...

Long-Term Keepers: Three Watches I Can’t Bear to Sell Quill & Pad
May 4, 2024

Long-Term Keepers: Three Watches I Can’t Bear to Sell

If GaryG wants to buy a watch of any significance it requires that he sells one or more other pieces. The bad news is that all of the watches he doesn't really love were sold off a long time ago! As a result, the discipline of asking "What watch in his current collection do I love less than this potential new purchase?" has become tougher and tougher. Here he shares three watches that he feels are long term-keepers and why.