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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Introducing – Bianchet Partners with Maserati MSG Racing & Launches Two Limited Flying Tourbillon Grande Date Monochrome
May 2, 2024

Introducing – Bianchet Partners with Maserati MSG Racing & Launches Two Limited Flying Tourbillon Grande Date

In 2021, Bianchet debuted in the watch industry with the Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork, establishing the brand’s design language and paving the way for future releases – like the 2023 Flying Tourbillon Grande Date. In 2023, Maserati returned to the world of open-wheel single-seater motorsport after a hiatus of 65 years. However, instead of the roar […]

OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 WatchAdvice
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 After Apr 30, 2024

OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

After over a year of ownership, the Tissot PRX has given me a new outlook on what makes a great, affordable luxury timepiece! What We Love: The finer design details comparable to more expensive watchesVariety of dial colours to choose from.Affordable/entry-level luxury at its best. What We Don’t: The date window could have been placed better for a more balanced dial view. Lack of colour choices to match the dials from the brand for additional straps. Lack of finer adjustment on the integrated bracelet. Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 9/10 When the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 was first introduced in 2021, it created quite a buzz! The timepiece came with an integrated bracelet design that had an AP-like shine, a waffle dial and a tonneau-shaped case with a circular dial. Those not versed in Tissot’s history didn’t know that this was a retake on one of the brand’s iconic 1970s designs (which I’ll touch on later) and saw this as a new kid on the block, one whose about to really shake things up in the affordable timepieces category. One of the main selling points of this timepiece was its price. For what you get in return, this timepiece offers a lot—quite a lot, actually. The PRX was first released with a quartz movement, staying true to its original, and priced around $500. Then came what we watch aficionados were waiting for: a mechanical version with a pretty hefty power reserve. 1970s Vintage Tissot ...

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage Luxury Sports Watches Under €3,000 - Including Cartier, Bvlgari, Girard-Perregaux, And More Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Apr 29, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage Luxury Sports Watches Under €3,000 - Including Cartier, Bvlgari, Girard-Perregaux, And More

Sometimes viewed as a low point in watch design, the late ’90s and early ’00s saw some great watch designs emerge. Today, a select handful offer huge bargains in the pre-owned market and neo-vintage luxury for small sums. As long as you don’t mind the odd over-scratched or over-polished piece, the value of watches like […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage Luxury Sports Watches Under €3,000 - Including Cartier, Bvlgari, Girard-Perregaux, And More to read the full article.

Our Favorite Releases from Watches & Wonders Week Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon Apr 25, 2024

Our Favorite Releases from Watches & Wonders Week

With Watches & Wonders in the books and a few weeks of space from the deluge of new releases, it’s time to look back on the show and figure out what really spoke to us. It was, by most accounts, a somewhat slow year for new releases, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t a lot of great watches to choose from for a retrospective article like this. And for this exercise, we’re not limiting ourselves to watches exhibited at Watches & Wonders proper, either. There were literally hundreds of brands with new watches to show throughout the city of Geneva during Watches & Wonders week. We didn’t see them all, but we caught as many as we could, and these are the watches that stand out as favorites.  Stay tuned tomorrow for favorites from our roster of contributors! Zach Weiss  I usually have difficulty picking favorites after events like Watches & Wonders. One sees so much, so quickly, that making judgments is difficult, and what’s left in one’s mind after is sort of an image cloud of memories. No single thing overtakes any other. But this year was different. Since the show, I’ve found myself thinking about two watches, or rather, one watch and one case/movement combo. The watch is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon in platinum. Yes, I’ve gone full fancy pants and chosen a nearly six-figure watch, but hear me out… it was gorgeous. Admittedly, the Duometre line is one that I’ve had a bit of a fascination with over the last year or so, as the original...

Louis Erard Drops Another Abstract Atelier Oï Edition SJX Watches
Louis Erard Drops Another Abstract Atelier Apr 23, 2024

Louis Erard Drops Another Abstract Atelier Oï Edition

In 2021, Louis Erard collaborated with a Swiss design studio on the Le Régulateur x atelier oï, a strikingly minimalist regulator-style watch with a dial devoid of scales, indices, or branding. Originally presented in a restrained grey, this collaboration now returns with a brighter, gilt finish inspired by sundials in a notably small run of just 18 pieces. Initial thoughts  Louis Erard’s newest offering has a captivating aesthetic that is both minimalist and striking, albeit not particularly legible. Unlike its predecessor, this has a more richer look with a golden dial that contrasts with the blued steel hands. The colour diverts the eyes towards the asymmetrical radial pattern engraved on the dial. The rest of the watch is identical to the earlier edition, which also means the same case as the standard regulator model. The downside of that is the thickness, which at over 12 mm is substantial for a watch with a relatively elegant design. The Atelier Oï regular is priced at CHF3,750, which is the prevailing price for most Louis Erard regulator editions, like the Oliver Mosset released in January. The new offering is a compelling timepiece for someone looking for something more artistic than the conventional offerings on the market. Inspired by a sundial The newest release follows on Louis Erard’s first collaboration with the Swiss design studio in 2021. With the exception of the dial colour, the watch retains the same specs as before. It has a regulator-style dial...

Imperial Oceanguard GMT Review Two Broke Watch Snobs
Apr 22, 2024

Imperial Oceanguard GMT Review

Now that we're through the craze of Watches & Wonders 2024, I've gotta say that getting my thoughts down on the new Imperial Oceanguard GMT has been a real treat. Last year, I had a chance to review the brand's first release-the Royalguard 200-and I've been eager to see what the brand would follow things up with. After a bit of teasing on social media, the Imperial Oceanguard GMT was revealed this year in a run of four different colorways, each limited to 25 pieces. The one you see here is the model in "Jet Wash White" and it's one of the few remaining versions that haven't sold out. As a GMT lover, this one was a ton of fun to handle and I think it's a great buy at under $600.

Thomas Aubert Wins 2024 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Established Apr 21, 2024

Thomas Aubert Wins 2024 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Established in 2015, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is an annual affair to recognise the next generation of watchmakers. Applicants present a timepiece of their own design and construction, which is judged by on its complexity, craftsmanship, and aesthetics by a jury including Philippe Dufour, Giulio Papi, and Francois-Paul Journe. While last year’s winner was a Swiss-Italian clockmaker, this year’s winner is 23-year-old Frenchman Thomas Aubert, who entered his wristwatch Séléné, a unique piece crafted in his final year at the Edgar Faure High School in Morteau, France. Amongst the standout features of the Séléné is its key-winding and -setting as well as the clever “shooting star” display on the back. The Séléné pays tribute to classical watchmaking in both style and technique, but each reinterpreted with a modern twist. As is often the case with such school watches, the movement is based on the Unitas 6497, although it underwent extensive reworking. For example, the timepiece doesn’t feature a crown; instead winding and time-setting are done via a key that goes into dedicated slots on the case back.  The front of the Séléné is classical and tastefully done, with a “grated” finish on the dial that is set on a frosted plate backdrop. The exposed balance bridge is mirror polished and chamfered. The screwed balance beats at 2.5 Hz and features a prominent Breguet overcoil hairspring. Mr Aubert is fascinated by astronomy, a passion that he...

Fratello Favorites: Daan’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases By Cartier, Hermès, And Hublot Fratello
Cartier Hermès Apr 15, 2024

Fratello Favorites: Daan’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases By Cartier, Hermès, And Hublot

Maybe it’s because I experienced Watches and Wonders from a distance this year, but I have the feeling there weren’t really any big showstoppers among all the novelties. However, that certainly doesn’t mean there weren’t any good releases. And who buys those showstoppers anyway? That’s why, for my list of favorites, I’ve chosen a trio […] Visit Fratello Favorites: Daan’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases By Cartier, Hermès, And Hublot to read the full article.

Piaget Celebrates 150 Years with an Ultra-Thin Tourbillon and a Pair of Polo Dates Worn & Wound
Piaget Celebrates 150 Years Apr 10, 2024

Piaget Celebrates 150 Years with an Ultra-Thin Tourbillon and a Pair of Polo Dates

Piaget is having a major moment in the watch industry right now. Its core design language-with bold aesthetics and a distinctly 1970s flair-is very en vogue, and it’s celebrating a milestone anniversary: 150 years. The brand kicked off the year with the Polo 79, a thoroughly modern interpretation of its very first Polo from 1979. Now, we get another extension of the beloved Polo line in the form of a pair of Polo dates and a new Altiplano that puts Piaget’s proficiency in the realm of ultra-thin calibers on full display. The Polo is a collection that strikes that perfect balance of utility and style. As the name suggests, its roots trace back to the sport, and the original hails from the peak era of luxury sport watches. However, from the onset, Piaget gave the model a sophisticated edge with the use of precious metal, yellow gold to be exact from the original 1979 model. In the four decades since its initial debut, Piaget has iterated on the Polo in many forms, including the introduction of a more traditional stainless steel variation with the Polo S in 2016.  With the two new additions to the Polo lineup (each limited to just 300 pieces), we get that classic stainless steel build along with the addition of a sporty rubber strap in place of the integrated bracelet. However, Piaget elevates each model with the incorporation of rose gold accents on the hands, hour markers, and date window. The 150th anniversary Polo Date comes in two sizes: 42mm and 36mm. I’m a r...

NOMOS Marks their Watches & Wonders Debut with an Affordable Limited Edition Tangente Worn & Wound
Nomos Marks their Watches & Apr 9, 2024

NOMOS Marks their Watches & Wonders Debut with an Affordable Limited Edition Tangente

Of the brands making their Watches & Wonders debut in 2024, perhaps none will be more closely watched by Worn & Wound readers than NOMOS, long a favorite in the affordable independent space. After several years away from the international trade show scene following the demise of Baselworld, Nomos is back this year making their first trip to the Palexpo, and featuring a fun spin on a classic with new limited edition takes on the Tangente 38 Date. With eye-catching color palettes–and equally eye-catching German names like “Flamingopink,” “Lemonbiscuit,” and “Sportbunt”–the new Tangente 38 Date models combine fan favorite design with an array of new colors the brand hopes will give wearers a chance to better express themselves through their watch. With a staggering 31 different colors, there are plenty of options for the watch enthusiast who wants something a little different from what you might typically see in the watch world.  But what might be most eye-catching is the price: Unlike many of the limited edition watches being unveiled this week, the new NOMOS Tangente 38 Dates are genuinely affordable, and actually cheaper than the standard model. The regular run Tangente 38 Date can be found on the NOMOS website for $2,780. The limited edition watches will sell for $2,310, a move NOMOS sees as an investment in brand accessibility. The LE Tangente 38 Date is still chronometer tested, still has a sapphire crystal and a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, an...

Rolex Introduces Two Gem-Set White Gold Daytona Models With Mother-Of-Pearl Dials Fratello
Rolex Introduces Two Gem-Set White Apr 9, 2024

Rolex Introduces Two Gem-Set White Gold Daytona Models With Mother-Of-Pearl Dials

Last year, Rolex introduced the new Cosmograph Daytona collection, which featured a slightly more refined design than its predecessor and was met with great praise. This year, The Crown cranks up the bling with two diamond-set models with mother-of-pearl dials. While that may sound super flashy, these new models show wonderful restraint for a pair […] Visit Rolex Introduces Two Gem-Set White Gold Daytona Models With Mother-Of-Pearl Dials to read the full article.

Introducing: Grand Seiko SLGW003 And SLGW002 “Birch Bark” Hand-Winders Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGW003 Apr 9, 2024

Introducing: Grand Seiko SLGW003 And SLGW002 “Birch Bark” Hand-Winders

As part of the Watches and Wonders 2024 releases from Grand Seiko, here we have the Grand Seiko SLGW003 and SLGW002. These are two new additions to the Evolution 9 collection. This is Grand Seiko’s newer design language that, while rooted in the 44GS, aims to push the brand forward. Today, Grand Seiko adds two […] Visit Introducing: Grand Seiko SLGW003 And SLGW002 “Birch Bark” Hand-Winders to read the full article.

Zodiac Releases Two New Versions Of Its Popular Super Sea Wolf GMT Fratello
Zodiac Releases Two New Versions Apr 8, 2024

Zodiac Releases Two New Versions Of Its Popular Super Sea Wolf GMT

The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT has long been one of my favorite GMT watches. Not only do I like its functionality and overall design, but I also appreciate how Zodiac has never been afraid to use some amazingly bright colors for the GMT bezels. As a result, the Super Sea Wolf GMT has always […] Visit Zodiac Releases Two New Versions Of Its Popular Super Sea Wolf GMT to read the full article.

Hublot Big Bang Integrated Blue Indigo Ceramic Hands-On Review WatchAdvice
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Blue Apr 5, 2024

Hublot Big Bang Integrated Blue Indigo Ceramic Hands-On Review

What We Love: Indigo blue is stunning to look atThe ceramic Bracelet is well-executedFeels like a toy on the wrist but in a great way What We Don’t: Ceramic is resistant to scratches but has the potential to chipThe date wheel can blend into the movement at timesTaking links on/off to adjust the watch will be challenging Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 8.5/10 When I think of Hublot, one of the first things that comes to my mind is the Big Bang, followed by the Hybrid rubber strap they pioneered back in 1980, which the brand is famous for. So, when I got the chance to test out the Big Bang in Blue Indigo Ceramic, I was excited because I got to try out a watch that doesn’t look like a Hublot but is still very much a Hublot. Big Bang was first released in 2005, which paved the way for the brand and its collections, such as Classic Fusion and Spirit of Big Bang, and has now evolved into highly complicated timepieces and material experimentation. Fifteen years later, in 2020, Hublot introduced its first-ever integrated Big Bang, and in 2022, released during watches and wonders, the world saw four unique Big Bang Ceramic monochrome colourways.  View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) Blue Indigo, Sky-blue, Sand Beige and Jungle green represent the elements of water, earth and wood. An indigo blue from the Majorelle Garden, the streets of Chefchaouen in Morocco, and the Blue City of...

Urwerk’s Spacetime Blade Concept Gets a Limited Release Worn & Wound
Urwerk s Spacetime Blade Concept Apr 4, 2024

Urwerk’s Spacetime Blade Concept Gets a Limited Release

Few brands have the ability to surprise quite like Urwerk, but it makes sense that such an unconventional watch brand would be the one most likely to leave us all scratching our heads in wonder and confusion (in the best way possible, of course). Their latest creation, the Spacetime Blade, is based on a design that made its debut last year ahead of the scuttled Only Watch auction. The clock, outfitted with a series light bulbs lit by Nixie tubes, provides pretty much all the timing information you could want, and plenty you didn’t know you needed, all in a very Urwerk way.  What we have here is a glass blade that stands 1.7 meters tall and weighs 20 kilograms. It’s an imposing, large object, made up of a total of 1,446 components. It stands on a large bronze crown that’s been polished and buffed to Urwerk’s preferred level of patina, and provides a base to a large glass dome that protects a series of vertically aligned Nixie bulbs, eight in total.  Each bulb contains a total of ten steel cathodes that allow it to illuminate any digit, 0 through 9. The glass is blown by hand and the electrical elements are meticulously assembled by hand as well, using tweezers, in each of the bulbs. According to Urwerk, each bulb consists of 88 parts.  Once the blade is assembled and the whole thing is turned on, it’s capable of displaying a variety of information via the Nixie bulbs. The Spacetime Blade has several different modes, and can read the time in hours, minutes, and ...

Brew’s Metric Chronograph is Now Available in Titanium Worn & Wound
Brew s Metric Chronograph Mar 29, 2024

Brew’s Metric Chronograph is Now Available in Titanium

Brew’s Metric line continues to grow, with the introduction of the first version of the Meca-Quartz chronograph in titanium. The Metric, as we’ve seen through several earlier iterations, has proven to be a fantastic canvas for Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer’s design chops, and now the watch takes on another slightly different shape (not literally, it’s the same 36mm case) in a new metal. This marks Brew’s first use of titanium, so they’re breaking the dam a bit here, and we can’t help but wonder what might be coming in our favorite lightweight metal.  But let’s not get too far ahead of ourselves. The new titanium Metric has a subdued black dial with red accents that complement the utilitarian vibe of a titanium sports watch. The overall feeling you get here is one of a certain tactical sensibility, rather than the colorful playground of the earliest Metrics. The subdials are recessed for an added sense of depth, and the word “Titanium” appears, curved over the 6:00 subdial, proudly announcing the use of a new material.  Brew has gone with a simple brushed finish for the case and bracelet of the titanium Metric, which makes a lot of sense for a few reasons. First, this kind of presentation will just always work with titanium, which has an inherently sporty quality to it. Second, it surely keeps costs down. Somehow, the titanium version of the Metric is only priced at only a small premium over the stainless steel versions, coming in at $495. That’s a pr...

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Spec Snobbery Worn & Wound
Mar 27, 2024

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Spec Snobbery

If I were to make a gross oversimplification of watches, I’d say they are about three things: provenance, design and specs. The first two are relatively straightforward: Who made a watch, and what does it look like? There are endless rabbit holes to go down with each, and fellow enthusiasts welcome anyone looking to join the conversations. That’s good news for those of us that long ago lost the privilege to ramble about Hans Wilsdorf at the dinner table, and have a limited number of times we can say “concentric circles” before our non-watch friends tune out. But in my initial years of collecting, I shied away from conversations of provenance and design, instead favoring talk of specs. Above all else, specs were what sold me. It’s a trend I’ve noticed fellow enthusiasts follow, which makes sense. Specs are tangible. They are indisputable facts on paper that immediately give an idea of how a watch will wear based on its dimensions, what its beat rate will be, how much abuse its crystal can take, and at what unnecessary depth of water it could out-live its wearer. With some welcome influence from my favorite YouTube reviewers, it was easy as a new collector to discern what specs were considered acceptable by the larger enthusiast community. While we may never agree on which case diameter constitutes the ideal “sweet spot” (but we all know it’s 36-38mm) or what movement is best, one specification seemed to have near universal support in the comment sections: ...