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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
Three failed watch technologies Buffy believes never caught on Time+Tide
Feb 3, 2024

Three failed watch technologies Buffy believes never caught on

The culture of watchmaking is one that equally respects tradition and ingenuity, as the past can be respected while breaking boundaries and inventing new techniques. But, sometimes inventiveness doesn’t always work out. You can’t make an omelette without breaking a few eggs, so let’s rummage through the discarded shells and see some watch technologies that … ContinuedThe post Three failed watch technologies Buffy believes never caught on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Louis Erard’s Olivier Mosset Le Regulateur is Ultra Minimalist SJX Watches
Louis Erard s Olivier Mosset Le Jan 31, 2024

Louis Erard’s Olivier Mosset Le Regulateur is Ultra Minimalist

Louis Erard, a brand well-known for its affordable collaborations with notable figures across different industries, has just dropped a wristwatch designed by a Swiss contemporary artist known for his abstract style. A variant of the brand’s classic regulator model, Le Regulateur Louis Erard x Oliver Mosset tells the time, but in an extremely minimalist, almost redacted manner, with just three hands rotating on a dial that evokes outer space. Initial Thoughts The design is clearly the work of an abstract artist; time-telling instrument it is not. In fact, it is not especially recognisable as a watch, particularly for someone unfamiliar with a regulator-style dial. The striking design will be polarising, particularly since it comes at the expense of function. It is, however, appealing in its own peculiar way and more broadly reflects the wide-ranging aesthetic adopted by Louis Erard thanks to Manuel Emch, now the brand’s creative chief and himself a collector of contemporary art. The only downside of the watch is the chunky case, which is shared by all Le Regulateur models. It’s thicker and bulkier than such a minimalist watch should be, but necessarily so due to the no-frills movement inside. But that also means the Oliver Mosset regulator is an affordable CHF3,750, as is typical for the brand. It’s a value proposition for a little bit of contemporary on the wrist. Not a watch That the watch was conceived as an artwork, rather than a timepiece is indicated by the l...

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Have a Perfectly Fitting Watch Strap with this Tactile, Adjustable Strap Buckle by Roland Iten: It’s Both Useful and Relatively Affordable – That’s Win/Win! – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 20, 2024

Have a Perfectly Fitting Watch Strap with this Tactile, Adjustable Strap Buckle by Roland Iten: It’s Both Useful and Relatively Affordable – That’s Win/Win! – Reprise

Watch straps and buckles (both pin and folding) are the nearly ideal way to fit your watch to your wrist, but they have an inherent drawback: the standard holes in the strap are 8 mm apart, so unless you are very lucky you have to select a hole that either makes the strap too tight or too loose. The perfect answer is either paying for a custom strap and hoping that your wrist size doesn't change or a Roland Iten RWC09 adjustable buckle.

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Fears and Topper Jewelers Team Up for a Tribute to Winters in Northern California Worn & Wound
Fears Jan 19, 2024

Fears and Topper Jewelers Team Up for a Tribute to Winters in Northern California

It’s hard to think of Fears as anything other than a quintessentially British watch brand. They were an early member of the British Watch & Clock Makers Alliance, and the brand has a long and proud history of making watches in the UK. They’ve also leaned into creating limited editions that trade on British culture, like the Jubilee Edition version of the Brunswick that popped up in 2022. So their latest effort, a second collaboration with California based Topper Jewelers, is perhaps a bit surprising. But it’s reflective of the fact that in just a few short years since Fears was formally relaunched, they’ve achieved a massive footprint for such a small brand, and have landed a worldwide following.  The Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Series II is a small collection of four watches with 25 examples made of each variant. It’s an expansion of the first collaboration between Topper and Fears, which consisted of two limited edition variants. The premise behind this collection is that each of the four dials reflect a different aspect of the natural beauty of Northern California winters, and each, naturally, displays the time on a “California” style dial, a mix of Roman and Arabic numerals.  Each dial is a whimsical take on Northern California nature, and reflects a region with a huge variety of beautiful places to explore, even in the cold winter months. The “Whiteout” is, you guessed it, white, with a stamped guilloche texture and lacquer coating that is me...

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Special Clock Highlight: Seiko Watch Dial Wall Clock Worn & Wound
Seiko Watch Dial Wall Clock Jan 17, 2024

Special Clock Highlight: Seiko Watch Dial Wall Clock

Welcome to the latest Chronicle! Here at the Windup Watch Shop, we know as well as anyone that time-telling doesn’t stop with wristwatches, and today’s piece is part of a larger series covering clocks and other non-watch timing instruments. Somewhat overlooked and underappreciated, wall clocks are far more than simple background pieces; they are functional decor with the ability to tie a space together while adding a touch of personalization. Today’s spotlight is on a special Seiko that is at once familiar and refreshing. Get your command hooks and hammer and nails ready, and let’s take a closer look. Welcome to the latest Chronicle! Here at the Windup Watch Shop, we know as well as anyone that time-telling doesn’t stop with wristwatches, and today’s piece is part of a larger series covering clocks and other non-watch timing instruments. Somewhat overlooked and underappreciated, wall clocks are far more than simple background pieces; they are functional decor with the ability to tie a space together while adding a touch of personalization. Today’s spotlight is on a special Seiko that is at once familiar and refreshing. Get your command hooks and hammer and nails ready, and let’s take a closer look. The post Special Clock Highlight: Seiko Watch Dial Wall Clock appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Seiko Adds a Pair of New References to their Popular Black Series Worn & Wound
Tudor Jan 16, 2024

Seiko Adds a Pair of New References to their Popular Black Series

There is a particular appeal to a stealthed-out tool watch. Maybe it’s the idea that the original design has been placed on the backburner for a more urgent, clandestine, reason. Or the ironic low-key aesthetic that often makes even more of a visual impact. We’ve seen various brands take the “blackout” approach, from Omega to Tudor, and the results are typically pretty intriguing. Seiko currently has a trio of black and orange watches under the Prospex collection that it calls “The Black Series”, but today it infuses the lineup with two new references that take things a step further by eliminating any colored accents and going for an (almost) all-out black look. These are the new 2024 Black Series SRPK43 and SSC923. The first of the new references, the SRPK43 is a familiar form but with a new face. It is 45mm wide but with a stout 47.4mm lug to lug measurement. Thickness is 13.2mm. The turtle-style stainless steel case and accompanying bracelet are, naturally, all black, as is the unidirectional ceramic bezel. In a nice touch, the day and date wheels have matching black backgrounds.  The only use of color is in the lume, which Seiko calls “Green Lumibrite Pro”. In the light, it is a pale green; at night it shines a more vivid green. The intended effect is to give the impression of peering through night vision goggles, and we’ll have to see the watches in person to assess how well Seiko has hit their mark. The SRPK43 is powered by the automatically-windin...

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New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon Deployant
Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon Jan 13, 2024

New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Dragon

Bell & Ross is a watch brand that is known for its aviation-inspired timepieces and the iconic square dash gauge case design. The latest addition to their collection is the BR 05 Artline Dragon, a limited edition model that features a dragon motif on the dial and the case. The dragon is a symbol of power, wisdom and luck in many cultures, and it is also a tribute to the Chinese New Year of the Dragon in 2024.

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10 Watches That Don't Tell Time? Look a Bit Closer Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 9, 2024

10 Watches That Don't Tell Time? Look a Bit Closer

By definition, watches, no matter whatever else they might do in addition, are made to tell time. As a rule, the vast majority of watches do this in analog fashion with the use of two rotating hands, one for the hour, the other for the minute, often with an additional hand to track the running seconds. But every so often, you’ll run across the proverbial exception that proves the rule - a timepiece whose design is so radical, so outside the mainstream in design, that at first glance (sometimes even at the second or third) it appears that you can’t read the time on it at all. Even most of these avant-garde pieces, however, have been designed with the purpose of timekeeping in mind, even if this basic function is overshadowed or reduced to an aesthetic afterthought by the more spectacular elements the watch offers. Here is a selection of 10 very interesting watches (actually, nine watches and one example of high-end wrist-worn art), most of which actually do tell you the time - as long as you know how to read them. F.P. Journe FFC F.P. Journe founder Francois-Paul Journe teamed up with legendary Godfather director Francis Ford Coppola to conceptualize and produce the original FFC watch, a unique piece in a tantalum case that fetched $4.93 million at the 2021 Only Watch auction, becoming the highest-selling F.P. Journe watch in the indie brand’s nearly 25 years of existence. Journe added a platinum-cased model to its regular collection in 2023 with the same visual...

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Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs Worn & Wound
Jan 4, 2024

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs

The latest release from Maurice de Mauriac is a timely release for the holiday season and the upcoming Olympic year. Focusing on an array of gold-accented chronographs, the new L3 Gold Edition seamlessly marries an elegant design with superb quality that has become synonymous with the Zuch-based brand. The L3 Gold Edition comes in five colorways to choose from: Emerald Green, Cherry Blossom, Opalescent White, Spheric Blue, and Spheric Brown, each with a corresponding hand-tooled leather watch strap that perfectly complements the dial color. Each timepiece features a brushed 18kt 5N red gold case (measuring in at 40.5 mm) with a screw-in red gold crown and mushroom-type pushers, complemented by an antireflective domed sapphire crystal and a sapphire caseback. All models in the L3 Gold Edition  include subdials for the chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock, chronograph half-hours at 6 o’clock, and running small seconds at 9 o’clock. For prospective customers, one is able to choose between an automatic or manual movement for their L3. The automatic movement is powered by an automatic Concepto 2100-2120, while the manual-would option contains a Concepto C2000.  The L3 Gold Edition watches are available now via Maurice de Mauriac’s website with prices starting at CHF 14,700. Images from this post: The post Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Nubeo Introduces a Collection of Fun, Colorful Divers with Impressive Specs Worn & Wound
Seiko built NH35 movement Jan 1, 2024

Nubeo Introduces a Collection of Fun, Colorful Divers with Impressive Specs

Nubeo is a brand that takes its inspiration from both sea and space in tribute, in function and in design. Their latest dive watch is named after the Ventana remotely operated vehicle. This scientific submersible is rated to a depth of over 1700 meters, and for 30 years and somewhere north of 4,100 dives it is the most experienced and enduring ROV in the world. This diver sure looks the part and with 1000m of water-resistance, it can also do the part. The perfectly round stainless steel case is a whopping 50mm in diameter, but similar to everyone’s favorite Japanese dive watch nicknamed after a delicious sandwich fish, there are no lugs. The strap directly attaches to the watch underneath each side, in a hooded fashion. Therefore, despite its girth, just about anyone should be able to wear it. All of the Ventana variants feature a deep wave patterned dial, with a flush helium escape valve at 9 o’clock and, believe it or not, a captive bezel held in place by large screws. The extra-large hands and indices, along with the oversize bezel pip are filled with a copious amount of lume. Powering the Ventana is the automatic, Seiko built, NH35 movement, and all come on a specialized, thick silicon strap, ready for action. Finishing the year with a bang, Nubeo has introduced 4 new colorways, each limited to 400 pieces. First there is the Basalt Grey, for those that prefer a more conservative look. Its bezel insert is a half-half split of black on top and, as the name implies, g...

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Legendary Marvel Comics Illustrator Adam Kubert on his Forthcoming Citizen x Marvel Collaboration Worn & Wound
Citizen x Marvel Collaboration If Dec 21, 2023

Legendary Marvel Comics Illustrator Adam Kubert on his Forthcoming Citizen x Marvel Collaboration

If you’re a fan of Marvel Comics or the Marvel Cinematic Universe, then you’re in for a treat, as Adam Kubert – true comic book royalty – has established a relationship with Citizen, illustrating Marvel characters on watch dials. As watch enthusiasts, I know you won’t shy away from a history lesson. So, before I launch into my interview with Adam, it’s important to understand the impact the Kubert family has had for over 70 years in comics. The prolific Joe Kubert, Adam’s father (who we lost back in 2012), began illustrating comics in the 1940s. He became renowned for his work, especially with DC Comics characters like Sgt. Rock and Hawkman. Joe Kubert was also the founder of The Kubert School in Dover, New Jersey that is still the only accredited school dedicated entirely to cartooning. The institution is responsible for churning out many of the great illustrators we have today. Adam Kubert and his brother, Andy Kubert, went on to become staples in the comic book industry, as well as teachers at The Kubert School. Adam and Andy’s niece, Katie Kubert, was an editor for both Marvel and DC Comics, and Andy’s daughter Emma Kubert is also a comic book illustrator. In essence, not only does talent for art and storytelling run in the blood, but for decades they’ve instilled that creativity in others.  Adam has been in comics for five decades, illustrating comics for 35 years, the last 30 with Marvel, and has been hands-on with all our favorite characters: W...

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Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Dec 21, 2023

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has found a receptive and substantial audience since its introduction in 2015, firmly establishing itself as one the Swiss brand's most versatile and creatively innovative product families. Whether it's the retro appeal of its original 1960s design, the exclusivity of the Carl Brashear editions, or the playful pastels of the Cotton Candy models, the Oris Diver Sixty-Five has something for just about any type of watch enthusiast. Here is a comprehensive rundown of the line, from its mid-sixties inspiration to today.  1965: The Original Waterpoof Oris started making watches in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where it is still based today. The brand made its first purpose-built dive watch in 1965, naming it the Oris Waterproof and targeting the era’s growing masses of recreational diving enthusiasts - many of whom were likely seeking a more affordable alternative to prohibitively priced genre pioneers like the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Waterproof was a product of its time, with a case made of chromium-plated brass, a crystal made of Plexiglas, and a strap made of sturdy but decidedly non-luxurious black rubber. The case, with a dive-scale bezel that rotated in both directions, measured a rather modest 36mm and housed a manually wound mechanical movement, the 17-jewel Oris Caliber 654; at the time, Oris made most of its own movements in-house. This historical divers’ model (above, right), while never a...

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Raketa’s Dive Watch is Made from a Recycled Nuclear Submarine SJX Watches
Raketa Dec 21, 2023

Raketa’s Dive Watch is Made from a Recycled Nuclear Submarine

The Raketa Sonar is a unique take on a dive watch. Featuring a funky, 1970s design with a colourful, 24-hour display – that was designed with the help of a Soviet navy captain – the Sonar has 200 m of water resistance. Two versions are available, a regular production and a limited edition – but it’s the latter that stands out. Both have steel cases, but the limited edition Sonar Kashalot has a bezel fabricated from titanium taken from the hull of the K-322 Kashalot, an Akula-class nuclear submarine that was deployed by the Soviet navy and decommissioned in 2019. Initial thoughts Known for its ostentatiously retro styling strongly evocative of Soviet-era timekeepers, Raketa sticks to its specialty with the Sonar. The design follows the mantra of form follows function: every aspect is catered to someone working in a nuclear-powered submariner. The 24-hour scale, for example, is useful since there is neither night nor day in a submarine. While the execution may not be to everyone’s taste, the originality of the concept is unmistakable. Recycled metal from Soviet nuclear submarines aren’t exactly rare – the Kashalot weighed over 14,000 tonnes fully loaded – but it gives the Sonar an additional degree of novelty and appeal. The submarine-titanium bezel is, however, substantially more expensive and only found on the limited edition. The standard model costs €1,900, and is the quality is as expected for the price. Raketa has improved its quality in recent years,...

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Grand Seiko Reboots their Most Classic Dress Watch, Adding a Bracelet Option Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Reboots their Most Classic Dec 19, 2023

Grand Seiko Reboots their Most Classic Dress Watch, Adding a Bracelet Option

Over the last few years, Grand Seiko has introduced a nearly nonstop stream of variants in their popular “SBGW” line of 37mm, manually wound dress watches. We’ve covered these watches at length, because we’re honestly pretty big fans. There’s a lot to like: they are based on the original Grand Seiko design language dating back to the founding of the brand, they are relatively affordable when compared to other watches in the Grand Seiko catalog, and they possess an elegant simplicity that is easy to dress up or down with a simple strap change. And of course, as time passes, there’s seemingly no end to the colors and textures that might pop up. But one thing has eluded collectors, at least many in the United States, and that’s a bracelet option. The Japanese market has long had the ability to pair this case with an elegant stainless steel bracelet, but the American collector has to jump through some hoops. That changed last week in an update to the collection could serve to reset the “SBGW” experience.  The new SBGW305 sees the dress watch fashioned with a simple silver dial, and a case mounted to a five-row steel bracelet that appears to be virtually identical to the bracelet that was paired with the JDM model SBGW235. For a better look, you can check out our recent video on our team’s mutual love for Grand Seiko, where you’ll see Worn & Wound cofounder Zach Weiss guiding us through his own personal collection of Grand Seikos, which includes the SBGW2...

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Unimatic Debuts a New, Smaller Case Size in a Limited Edition Release with Massena LAB Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Dec 7, 2023

Unimatic Debuts a New, Smaller Case Size in a Limited Edition Release with Massena LAB

The latest collaboration between design firm Massena LAB, and Italian watchmaker UNIMATIC is well underway with their Modello Cinque U5S-ML. Like any good partnership, both parties should bring something to the table – and this timepiece is no exception. Combining the thoughtful design language that Massena has become known for, with the craftsmanship of Unimatic, the U5S-ML is nuanced, balanced and, above all, flattering for just about anyone. Most noticeable upfront is the smaller size of this reference. The Modello Cinque U5S-ML boasts a 36mm brushed stainless steel case. For those who have followed UNIMATIC, you might be aware that this smaller case size is a departure for the brand – but should be a welcome one for enthusiasts looking for a watch with a smaller footprint. The 36mm style firmly places the U5S-ML in the midsize and unisex categories, broadening the appeal to a wider and more diverse audience.  The watch itself was inspired by the industrial style boom of the mid-1900’s, with reference points taken from the work of Dieter Rams and even Bavarian automobile dashboards. This is most evident in the clean lines and minimalistic dial that’s unobtrusive but nonetheless stylish and modern. Running along the matte black dial surface we have glossy white markers, and hour and minute hands that are matte black ladder phantoms (and accented in Super-LumiNova C1). The same design details are found on the caseback, which features a UNIMATIC x Massena LAB Fibo...

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Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes! – Reprise Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon Dec 6, 2023

Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes! – Reprise

As Joshua Munchow swiped through posts on Instagram one day, he was stopped in his tracks, toothbrush dangling from his gaping mouth, eyes wide, and one singular thought running through his head as he stared at his phone: Grand Seiko doesn’t make movements like this. This is an avant-garde tourbillon movement with a constant force escapement and incredible, exposed mechanics! What in the world . . .?! Meet the T0.

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Exhibition: Cartier Explores Middle Eastern Influences in Abu Dhabi SJX Watches
Cartier Explores Middle Eastern Influences Nov 21, 2023

Exhibition: Cartier Explores Middle Eastern Influences in Abu Dhabi

Focusing on the intersection of design and Islamic culture, Cartier, Islamic Inspiration and Modern Design has just opened at the Louvre Abu Dhabi. On show till March 2024, the exhibition underscores the significant influence of Islamic arts and culture on the design evolution of Cartier’s jewellery and objet d’art. The exhibition chronicles how Louis Cartier, the grandson of the brand’s founder, cultivated an interest in Islamic art in the 1910s. He enhanced the maison’s library and established a collection, providing likely inspiration for its designers in crafting Orientalist-style jewellery. Following this, Jacques Cartier, Louis’s brother, brought an added dimension into the mix by incorporating South Asian and Arabian styles and arts after his journeys to meet the brand’s esteemed clientele in those regions.  Jacques Cartier in the Middle East. Image – Cartier. To shape this narrative, the exhibition’s curators, Evelyne Possémé and Judith Henon, traced Cartier’s creative design process by showcasing the various influences and styles that inspired its creation. The exhibition displays over 400 artworks from Louvre Abu Dhabi, Paris museums such as the Musée du Louvre and Musée des Arts Décoratifs, and various public and private collections. It also includes various drawings, photographs, and other materials from the brand’s own collection. Prominent features of the exhibition include a stepped merlon showcasing floral motifs from Iran, dating ...

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[Hands-On] MB&F; Reveals Horological Machine Number 11: Architecture Worn & Wound
MB&F; Nov 20, 2023

[Hands-On] MB&F; Reveals Horological Machine Number 11: Architecture

A new Horological Machine was released this week in Dubai, marking the 11th numbered edition to the series. The last HM was released in 2020, making this the longest gap between new Machines since Max Busser launched the brand with HM1 in 2007. The new HM11 is simply called Architect, a nod to the inspiration for the unconventional design, which was a particular form of mid-century habitat architecture. Like the Machines that came before it, the 11 is a conceptual wonder, with no shortage of fully bespoke elements that coalesse into something otherworldly on the wrist. What it lacks in practicality, it more than makes up for in pure creativity that pushes horological boundaries in the same way the very first one did.  I’ll start off by saying that this isn’t a watch that’s easy to judge by conventional standards; none of the Horological Machines are. And that’s kind of the point. That said, they all present a surprising level of nuance and yes, even ergonomic practicality. The F, or Friends part of MB&F;, aren’t restricted to the usual bounds of mass produced timepieces, but rather work toward the shared goal of expressing an idea and design concept provided by the MB, or Max Busser part of the equation. The end result in the case of the HM11 is a watch modeled after a habitat of another time, or even another world. It tells a story, and offers a landscape of discoveries within its 42mm by 22mm frame. There is a case here, but it defies simple explanation. A flyi...

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