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Results for Philippe Dufour

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Philippe Dufour

The Vallée de Joux independent whose Simplicity, Duality, and Grande Sonnerie set the modern finishing benchmark.

Our Predictions In The Divers Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): We Have An Unexpected Favorite Quill & Pad
Nov 1, 2020

Our Predictions In The Divers Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): We Have An Unexpected Favorite

The GPHG Diver's category contains watches linked to the field of diving, whose functions, materials, and design are suited to this activity. Diver's watches are fairly straightforward and the most successful ones tend look very much alike. However most of our panelists selected a winner from the outfield that looked very different to the norm.

Rolex Submariner Deconstruction Video: Warning, Don’t Try This At Home – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Submariner Deconstruction Video Warning Oct 31, 2020

Rolex Submariner Deconstruction Video: Warning, Don’t Try This At Home – Reprise

Ever wondered what the inside of a Rolex Submariner looks like, then (sensibly) thought better of trying to find out? Well, wonder no more. The Watches TV has teamed up with The Naked Watchmaker, Peter Speake, to take a modern Rolex Submariner completely apart – diving right into the heart of this famous diver’s watch.

The shark attack victim, who has become a Seiko ambassador, relives that fateful day in Sydney Harbour when he lost two limbs… Time+Tide
Seiko ambassador relives Oct 27, 2020

The shark attack victim, who has become a Seiko ambassador, relives that fateful day in Sydney Harbour when he lost two limbs…

Editor’s note: If I had to list my most motivational interview of the year, it would be easy. It would be Paul de Gelder. Paul is a former navy clearance diver, turned TV show host and now Seiko ambassador. Paul is an Aussie based in L.A – and his claims to fame are more than … ContinuedThe post The shark attack victim, who has become a Seiko ambassador, relives that fateful day in Sydney Harbour when he lost two limbs… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1 Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 Oct 26, 2020

The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1

For us, there was only one effective way to rate and review the luxurious Seiko Challenger diver, the $9995AUD Seiko Prospex SLA037J1, a re-creation of Seiko’s first dive watch, the 62MAS, launched in 1965. And that was to put it up against a brand nobody baulks at spending that kind of money for a diver: … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SNR049J Batman will leave you black and blue Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SNR049J Batman will Oct 22, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SNR049J Batman will leave you black and blue

Looks can be deceiving, and the Seiko Prospex SNR049J proves the point in idiosyncratic style, once again firmly setting the bar for how we perceive a tool watch. This is a deliciously blue faced, limited reference in the LX series, Seiko’s pinnacle of sports and diver’s watches. In 2020 this is a brash and unapologetically … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SNR049J Batman will leave you black and blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Announces the Design-Your-Own-Seiko-5 Contest SJX Watches
Seiko Announces Oct 19, 2020

Seiko Announces the Design-Your-Own-Seiko-5 Contest

Much loved for its extreme affordability, the Seiko 5 was revamped last year with the Seiko 5 Sports. Since then, there have been numerous iterations of the diver “lite” Seiko 5 Sports, as well as a variety limited editions such as the Street Fighter V quintet inspired by the video game of the same name. And now anyone could be the designer of the next Seiko 5. Seiko has just announced Seiko 5 Sports Custom Watch Beatmaker, a design contest open to the public. It’s an online platform to mix and match the key elements of the watch, and the design receiving the largest number of votes will be realised as an actual production watch. Initial thoughts As if in response to the long-existing and substantial community of “modders” who modify Seiko watches, the contest presents choices for five external parts of the watch, namely the bezel insert, case, dial, hands, and strap, allowing users to iterate amongst all of them. But the choices for each of the five elements are all drawn from existing models of the Seiko 5 Sports, so there really isn’t that much of a diversity in design. The resulting watches will essentially be a shuffling of familiar elements, which is not that exciting, especially given the numerous and interesting after-market modifications available. That said, it is significant that Seiko is allowing watch enthusiasts to take part in the design process – up to an extent – bringing about hope that there will be more enthusiast-led designs in the...

INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze Time+Tide
Yema Oct 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze

The Yema Superman is a strong vintage diver, with two selling points that should be a wake-up call for other brands, starting with an obvious and rather rhetorical question: When you go out to buy a pair of jeans with your slimmer and shorter mate (speaking for myself here), do you buy the exact same … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Mariner Date SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Oct 2, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Mariner Date

Modelled on a 1960s diver’s alarm wristwatch, the Polaris was revived in 2018 as a full-fledged collection of watches ranging from time-only to chronograph. Now Jaeger-LeCoultre adds two more to the line up: the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. Looking very similar to each other, both share the same a gradient-blue dial but are distinguished in function; the Memovox is an alarm while the Date is a three-hand base model. Polaris Mariner Date (left), and Polaris Mariner Memovox Initial thoughts Probably because it manages to be sporty and slightly retro at the same time, the gradient (or fumè or smoked) blue dial is being used once again for a Polaris dive watch, not long after the similar-looking limited edition for the American market. And it’s worth noting that the three-tone blue dial takes inspiration from the Memovox “Snowdrop” of the 1970s. In short, the look isn’t novel, but it is a good one. And a few tweaks have been worked in to help it stand out, most obvious with the use of orange accents. The new Memovox on brand ambassador Benedict Cumberbatch The Polaris Mariner Memovox Although both watches have been updated in design and upgraded in functionality – water resistance is now 300 m instead of 200 m – they are beset by a sharp increase in price. For instance, the new Mariner Memovox alarm watch costs about 40% more than the equivalent limited edition of 2018. And the Mariner Date costs a bit over US$11,000, while the standar...

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW264 Sep 28, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial

I’m a vintage diver enthusiast, embracing smaller diameters, but still with a predilection for tough tools, even - don’t tell anyone - with a bespoke shirt and a suit. Grand Seiko have single-handedly restored my faith in dress watches in 2020, with their Elegance series having several new references in what is a superb case. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 might be the most stunning tourbillon of the year Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 Sep 27, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 might be the most stunning tourbillon of the year

In a year of great horological heights, Glashütte Original is once again pushing for the summit with the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 limited edition. This comes after a succession of eye-catching 2020 releases, featuring some of the best dials in the business, and fascinating top tier versions of their vintage perfect diver SeaQ, which made … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 might be the most stunning tourbillon of the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Heritage Military Marine Nationale SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Aug 26, 2020

Longines Introduces the Heritage Military Marine Nationale

Longines’ momentum with retro timepieces continues with the new Heritage Military Marine Nationale. The new remake is clean and legible, just like its inspiration, which was made for the French Navy in 1947. The vintage original, the ref. 5774, was an instrument for shallow diving – albeit one without the familiar rotating bezel of a diver’s watch that wouldn’t be invented until the 1950s. Consequently, it was a clean and legible watch, and so does the vintage reissue. Initial thoughts The Marine Nationale recreates the feel of the original quite well, despite being substantially larger. That’s accomplished by retaining the proportions of the original, as well as smaller but important details, like the shape of the seconds hand and the vintage logo on the dial. And thankfully there is no date to ruin the symmetrical dial. Like most of Longines’ other remakes, the appeal of the Marine Nationale lies in its affordable price of US$2,000, which is strong value especially given the upgraded ETA movement within. The only weakness of the Marine Nationale – especially given it is a remake of a dive watch – is the minimal water resistance of just 30 m. Subtle reworking At 38.5 mm wide, the Marine Nationale is relatively small by modern standards, even though it has been significantly enlarged from its original’s 33 mm diameter. That said, the size of the remake is good, especially coupled with the relatively thick case, which preserves the proportions of the ori...

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Aug 20, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V

Introduced five decades ago, the Seiko 5 is much loved for its affordability and infinite variety. Last year Seiko gave the Seiko 5 Sports a complete revamp, giving it a diver “lite” look. Now the redesigned watch is the base for the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V, a limited-edition collection that’s a tribute to the iconic one-on-one fighting video game developed by Japanese game maker Capcom. Each of the six watches in the line up is inspired by character from Street Fighter, one of the bestselling games in history, with some 45 million units sold to date and a major part of growing up in the 1990s. Initial thoughts Essentially variants of the same watch with different dials and bezels, the Street Fighter editions have the same case as the regular production model, which means 42.5 mm wide, 13.3 mm thick, and a 100 m depth rating. While it sounds large, the watch is more wearable that the diameter suggests thanks to the short lug-to-lug span at 46 mm. Also identical is the 4R36 movement and lack of a screw-in crown, which feels counterintuitive on a sports watch, though strictly speaking there is no practical difference between the two in everyday use. However, the similarities stop there. The new limited editions escalate the fun factor with creative dial designs and bright colours. But the price has also increased steeply – the Street Fighter editions cost almost twice as much as the standard model – no doubt due to the royalties due to the game’s d...

INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original SeaQ – a 39.5mm dive watch with a diamond bezel? Sorry, what? Time+Tide
Glashütte Original SeaQ – Aug 11, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original SeaQ – a 39.5mm dive watch with a diamond bezel? Sorry, what?

Watching Andrew in the Virtual Baselworld 2020 recap I had a deep understanding of the distracted description of the glacial blue degradè dial of the Sixties pieces from Glashütte Original. Today I’m quietly drawn to something that is so far removed from my vintage diver tool-tastes that I am genuinely surprised. Glashütte Original is the independent … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original SeaQ – a 39.5mm dive watch with a diamond bezel? Sorry, what? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glashütte Original Takes To The Seas (Again) With New Versions Of The SeaQ In Stainless Steel, Two-Tone, Red Gold, And Even Diamonds Quill & Pad
Glashütte Original Takes Aug 7, 2020

Glashütte Original Takes To The Seas (Again) With New Versions Of The SeaQ In Stainless Steel, Two-Tone, Red Gold, And Even Diamonds

Following the successful launch of 2019's new diver’s collection, which according to Glashütte Original was exceptionally well received, the brand added new 2020 variations of the SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date in red gold and two-tone cases and then two new stainless steel variations, one of which is quite unexpected.

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are modern Apocalypse Now reissues, and they’re ready for 2020 Time+Tide
Seiko SPB151J Aug 3, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are modern Apocalypse Now reissues, and they’re ready for 2020

Last year, Seiko fans around the world had a collective skipping of heartbeats when the Japanese firm announced the release of the SLA033. This was no normal Seiko dive watch. As its full name suggests, the Seiko Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Edition SLA033, is a watch inspired by one of the most iconic Seiko dive watches … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are modern Apocalypse Now reissues, and they’re ready for 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is American-style Pepsi, bigger, bolder Time+Tide
Ball Watch Company Jul 25, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is American-style Pepsi, bigger, bolder

Editor’s note: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II USA-only edition is available now in the Time+Tide marketplace, alongside the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original, a vintage-styled diver with some similar muscle.  The Ball Watch Company is a brand founded on the principles of practical and robust solutions to timekeeping problems. They were established in the United … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is American-style Pepsi, bigger, bolder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Meet CODE41 and their X41 AeroCarbon, this is a Swiss brand with big ambitions Time+Tide
Jul 19, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Meet CODE41 and their X41 AeroCarbon, this is a Swiss brand with big ambitions

When you think of microbrands, a clear picture starts to form in your mind pretty quickly. A vintage-inspired diver, powered by a Japanese NH35 movement, perhaps? Not only is this formula wildly successful, it’s become somewhat of a trope. Its popularity is justified, and it’s a wonderful way to bring fresh blood into the watchmaking … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Meet CODE41 and their X41 AeroCarbon, this is a Swiss brand with big ambitions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: To all the girls (and boys) who have written to us over the years … Time+Tide
Jul 16, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: To all the girls (and boys) who have written to us over the years …

Despite the temptation to re-tune our tiny violins and cry to the world that our virus numbers have skyrocketed and that we’re all on the brink of yet another endless day indoors, I’m going to flip this one to the positive and talk about the kinds of amazing, heartening and impressive letters and emails we … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: To all the girls (and boys) who have written to us over the years … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Collection Jul 15, 2020

VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, it should come as no surprise that the Longines Heritage Collection has gone from strength to strength over the last few years. An early sign of the success that was to come was the Longines Heritage Diver 1967 in 2015 (a watch that was kindly donated to the Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.