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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin May 2, 2023

Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases

Established in 1988, Frederique Constant is a relatively new player on the Swiss watch scene with a mere 35 years under its belt – a blink in the eye of the likes of Vacheron Constantin. Despite its comparatively shorter history, the brand has still garnered worldwide success on the back of solid, classic design and quality … ContinuedThe post Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Davide Cerrato Appointed CEO of Bremont SJX Watches
Montblanc May 2, 2023

Business News: Davide Cerrato Appointed CEO of Bremont

An English brand best known for its aviator watches, Bremont has just announced Davide Cerrato will take the helm as chief executive officer. An industry veteran with a background in design, Mr Cerrato will also join Bremont’s board. His career include stints at Panerai and Montblanc (and more recently, a brief tenure at HYT), as well as Tudor, where he played a key role in the brand’s stylistic reboot. Founded by brothers Nick and Giles English in 2002, Bremont has been run by the siblings since its founding. The appointment of Mr Cerrato is the latest development in the evolution two decade-old brand, which recently raised money from investors including hedge fund manager Bill Ackman, valuing the firm at over £100 million. And just last year, Bremont inaugurated a 35,000 ft² facility in Henley-on-Thames, an hour’s drive west of London, known as The Wing after its swooping form. Taken together, these developments clearly reflect the brand’s ambitions to be a global name in premium sports watches. A veteran in the cockpit Bremont got its start as a maker of watches aimed at aviators and soon gained a following for its association with various military fighter units. Amongst its best known watches is a wristwatch developed in cooperation with Martin Baker, the leading maker of ejection seats for fighter aircraft. While the brand’s focus on aviation-inspired timepieces has been the foundations of its success, the appointment of Mr Cerrato will likely bring change...

Yema Introduces a Wide Range of Field Watches to Their Urban Sport Collection Worn & Wound
Yema May 1, 2023

Yema Introduces a Wide Range of Field Watches to Their Urban Sport Collection

As it is currently constructed, Yema’s Urban Sport watch collection is made up of two models – the Wristmaster Micro Rotor and the Wristmaster Traveller. Both use an octagonal profile, a unique bit-like fixed bezel and an integrated steel bracelet design. Besides the dial, their in-house movements which include the micro rotor equipped CMM.20 (a brand first) and the YEMA2000 are what distinguishes each model. But if a more traditional, round-cased silhouette with a splash of neo-vintage character is what you’re after, then this incoming batch hitting Yema’s Urban Sport collection might tickle your fancy. The new Yema Urban Field comprises ten watches with five various dial colors, two different case sizes, and a Swiss manual winding movement. In the world of sport-casual field watches, there has always been this ongoing debate as to what is the appropriate case size for a solid everyday wearing field watch. Those who lean strongly towards the purist end of the spectrum might say 36mm, or bust. The enthusiast who prefers a more contemporary wearing watch might argue that 40mm is the way to go. Whatever your preference is, Yema is looking to cover the entire ground by offering a svelte 37.5mm case and a modern 40mm case, respectively. Both the 37.5mm and 40mm case sizes get the same set of five dial colorways. Each dial is embellished with a sandblasted finish that provides a sea of grainy-like texture that surrounds the more muted appearance of both the markers and ...

Marathon Release a Stainless Steel Version of Their Navigator Worn & Wound
Marathon Apr 21, 2023

Marathon Release a Stainless Steel Version of Their Navigator

Since 1986, the Marathon Navigator has positioned itself as one of the most reliable, well built, pilot’s watches out there. From its familiar dial and asymmetrical case shape, to its bi-directional bezel and composite fiber case. Together, these design elements have long since camped out in the minds of many a collector as the defining features of this reference. Since 1986, the Marathon Navigator has positioned itself as one of the most reliable, well built, pilot’s watches out there. From its familiar dial and asymmetrical case shape, to its bi-directional bezel and composite fiber case. Together, these design elements have long since camped out in the minds of many a collector as the defining features of this reference. The post Marathon Release a Stainless Steel Version of Their Navigator appeared first on Worn & Wound.

eBay Finds: Cosmic Seamasters, Wakmann Chronos, & Vintage Bulovas Worn & Wound
Accutron Here we have Apr 20, 2023

eBay Finds: Cosmic Seamasters, Wakmann Chronos, & Vintage Bulovas

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Accutron Here we have a beautiful Accutron with a cool, space-age design. As if the now classic caliber 218 tuning fork movement isn’t futuro enough, the dial and handset on this one take it to the next level. The champagne dial has a radial brushed finish and thin yet bold radial lines for hour markers. The unpolished steel case is simple and round, but with a nice beveled bezel and sharp chamfers on the angled lugs. The bold red hour and minute hands along with the black second hand complete the space-age look. Signed crown at 4 o’clock…as it should be. Seller states the watch runs and keeps time. Vintage Accutrons don’t get much better than this! View auction here. Eagle Star Diver Here’s a vintage diver I haven’t seen before. I have a couple of vintage Eagle Star Squale divers from the 1960’s, but it looks like Eagle Star kept going into at least the 1980’s! This diver has a great look, and is in fantastic condition. The steel case has the classic Submariner style with the crown guards, and looks to be sharp and unpolished. The black dial has large lume Arabic numerals and a simple date window at 3 o’clock. The hands are black and white with lume p...

Fratello and Straum Collaborate on a Limited Edition with a Lava Red Dial Worn & Wound
Apr 17, 2023

Fratello and Straum Collaborate on a Limited Edition with a Lava Red Dial

Fratello announced their latest limited edition last week, a collaboration with Straum, a Norwegian brand on the rise who made some noise a few years ago with the Opphav, a stainless steel integrated bracelet sports watch made for an affordable price with a dynamic textured dial. The new collaborative watch with Fratello is notable in that it appears to be a true collaboration, with Straum making rather significant changes to their design at Fratello’s request. This is somewhat rare in the world of collaborative watches, and in this case has resulted in a rather compelling edition with a fiery red dial and some key refinements made from the brand’s earlier watch.  The Fratello x Straum Jan Mayen Limited Edition is named for a Norwegian island that the brand has tapped for inspiration when it comes to the striking red dial. Fratello describes it as “lava red” fumé, appropriate given Jan Mayen is home to the Beerenberg volcano. Ridges emanating from the dial’s center replicate flowing lava, and the effect is achieved via a stamping process followed by several steps of painting and surface finishing treatments. The dial text is minimal, just the brand’s logo and wordmark at 12:00, allowing the unique texture to truly take a starring role. There are several small details beyond the new dial design that differentiate the new LE from Straum’s earlier Opphav. First, the case size has been slightly reduced, from just shy of 41mm to 39mm. At the same time, the bezel...

Up Close: Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 Apr 17, 2023

Up Close: Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327

Breguet has announced a new flagship perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327. Succeeding the ref. 5327 that’s been in the catalogue almost two decades, the new ref. 7327 retains the traditional style that defines the brand while incorporating refinements and gentle modernisation in the design. Importantly, the ref. 7327 features a new perpetual calendar mechanism that boasts an elaborate retrograde display that illustrates Breguet’s sophisticated approach to movement construction. Initial thoughts The design of the ref. 7327 is quintessential Breguet and indisputably the main attraction. The orderly yet asymmetrical dial finished in guilloche, pomme hands, and the slim case with a fluted band – it is Breguet. Yet I’d be remiss not to mention the immense charm and finesse the ref. 7327 exudes. Thoughtfully executed dress watches are seldom encountered today, especially ones with svelte, just-right proportions, but this a niche that Breguet has mastered with consistency and quality. The design of the ref. 7327 is particularly interesting because it is clearly classic Breguet, but with a modern twist. The dial is slightly cleaner than old-school Breguet wristwatches, which were often elaborately, and sometimes fussily, decorated. But unlike the facelifted ref. 7337, for instance, which traditionalists might argue is too modern, the ref. 7327 is still eminently classical. Additionally, the addition of a retrograde month display at 11 ...

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Citizen Super Titanium Promaster Dive Apr 16, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 45: From Smaller Seiko 5s to Psychedelic Zodiacs

And we’re back for episode 45 of A Week in Watches. The dust from Watches & Wonders has settled, but there are still plenty of new releases to cover. This week we have tough-looking Timex Q with complications to spare. Seiko 5 has continued to trim down their sizes, and we’re excited about it. Zodiac has launched their weirdest Super Sea Wolf yet, and, finally, Autodromo puts a big engine in their tried-and-true Group B case with the Rallysport Chronographs. All in all, a pretty solid week. Before you go, please do give us a like and subscribe over on our YouTube channel. It really helps us out! This week’s episode is sponsored by Whatnot, a live-stream auction app where you can buy and sell unique items. Come join the Windup Watch Shop for their first stream on Wednesday, April 19th at 5PM Eastern, where they will be showing and selling various items from the shop, including Buy-it-Now Bundles featuring watches such as the Citizen Super Titanium Promaster Dive Automatic and the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn And Wound Edition bundled with accessories from ADPT and Worn & Wound. Follow this link to sign up for Whatnot and get $15 in credit toward your first purchase. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 45: From Smaller Seiko 5s to Psychedelic Zodiacs appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Hands on Review WatchAdvice
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Hands Apr 11, 2023

Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Hands on Review

Early March – Tissot released its new look line up of a revived model line, the Chemin des Tourelles, named after the location of the brands first headquarters in Le Locle. I had the pleasure of going hands on with several of its key pieces, and in particular the 39 mm version, with sunburst blue dial and brown leather strap. What we like Beautifully finished deep blue sunburst dialCase wears comfortably on the wristSmart, classic design What we don’t like Crystal reflects the light a lot, detracting from the dialClasp isn’t as sturdy as you would expectMovement could be finished better with the see-through case back Overall rating: 7.125/10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 6.5/10 Now I should start out by stating that this watch retails for AUD $1,175, which by many people’s standard in the crazy world of watches we live in, could be considered quite cheap. However, this is a great entry level price point for a Swiss watch, and as such, I’m reviewing it with this in mind, and to be honest, I’ve worn plenty of watched that are 3x or more in price that are probably on par if not a little less appealing or well built! So, here we go… Tissot holds a fond place in my heart. It was the first ever Swiss watch I bought. I had my first ever job in Sydney, and even though I wasn’t earning much, being a junior sales co-ordinator at a major radio network, I wanted to reward myself. So one lunch time I went to one of the local watch d...

Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm Time+Tide
Norqain presents Apr 5, 2023

Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm

 Norqain introduces new Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41 Steel & Gold Hints of 18K 5N red gold are injected into the design through the bezel, hands, counters, and Norqain logo 100m water-resistant 41mm case, automatic day-date chronograph calibre Norqain has a very clear and specific lane for their watches: they must be robust, high-performing and … ContinuedThe post Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Rolls Royce Phantom II” Apr 1, 2023

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Having covered the notable from independent watchmaking and complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction on April 5, we turn to timepieces that are all about artisanal crafts, ranging from cloisonné and marquetry. Amongst the highlight is a Patek Philippe Dome Clock depicting the African savannah in cloisonné and another is the Cartier Tortue ref. 2496 with the jeweller’s signature panther motif. Important Watches I takes place on April 5, 2023. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2101: Cartier Tortue LM Panthere This wristwatch two enduring elements of Cartier design, a form case and the panther motif. It’s a large-size Tortue – French for “turtle” – with a panther on the dial in champleve enamel. The large variant of the Tortue (instead of the oversized “XL”), this measures 34 mm in diameter, giving the dial ample real estate for the panther. The panther’s visage is executed in champlevé, where the dial base is first engraved with the motif before being painted and fired. This is powered by the cal. 430 MC, an ultra-thin manual mechanical movement that is actually the Piaget cal. 430P. Accompanied by its box and papers, this has an estimate of HK$200,000-300,000, or about US$25,000-38,200. You can find out more in the catalogue. Lot 2131: Audemars Piguet “Rolls Royce Phantom II” Before becoming synonyms with the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet (AP) produced a diversity of elaborately decorated wrist- and pocket watc...

Speake-Marin introduces a new date complication to their breathtaking Ripples collection Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Mar 30, 2023

Speake-Marin introduces a new date complication to their breathtaking Ripples collection

Whenever a new watch is introduced, there’s usually an aspect of the design that jumps out, whether it’s a stunning dial, unique case architecture, or a gorgeous movement. And sometimes, you find all three in one watch. The new Speake-Marin Ripples Date is that watch. This release remixes the multi-angled razzle-dazzle that you find in … ContinuedThe post Speake-Marin introduces a new date complication to their breathtaking Ripples collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Ferdinand Berthoud President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele debuts new watches at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Ferdinand Berthoud Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: Ferdinand Berthoud President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele debuts new watches at Watches and Wonders 2023

Born in 1727 in Neuchâtel, Ferdinand Berthoud was a scientist and watchmaker who would eventually become watchmaker to the French king and the royal navy. Today, Ferdinand Berthoud’s passion for horological design and chronometric excellence is carried on by the brand’s President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. In this video, he shares with Revolution Founder Wei Koh labors […]

Glenfarclas 50-Year-Old Malt Whisky: There’s No Substitute For Time Quill & Pad
Mar 30, 2023

Glenfarclas 50-Year-Old Malt Whisky: There’s No Substitute For Time

Whisky needs time. A great blender might be able to create magic by incorporating some younger components, but in general, nothing replaces time. It doesn’t have to be decades, but this is not overnight stuff. To celebrate the 50th anniversary of chairman, John Grant, first joining the industry, Glenfarclas have released a very special, limited edition 50-Year-Old Highland single malt.

Hermes Expands their H08 Collection with Sleek New Three Handers and an Impressive Chronograph Worn & Wound
Hermes Expands their H08 Collection Mar 29, 2023

Hermes Expands their H08 Collection with Sleek New Three Handers and an Impressive Chronograph

This year, Hermès has expanded their H08 line with their Watches & Wonders novelties, adding several new colors to the base model in their composite case material, as well as a very impressive monopusher chronograph. Hermès is a favorite meeting at Watches & Wonders. The brand has a history that sits well outside traditional Swiss watchmaking culture. As a luxury design house, they are primarily known for their leather work, and the iconography of the brand is largely associated with their roots in equestrian sports. They have greatly expanded their watchmaking reach in recent years, however, with Vaucher supplied movements and a series of winning designs that have legitimized the brand in the watchmaking space.  The H08 was introduced two years ago as the “sporty-chic” Hermès sports watch. This year’s new introductions feature the brand’s very interesting composite material, made from a mix of carbon fiber and graphene powder. The result is a lightweight 39mm case that Hermès claims is resistant to wear, and it has a unique textured appearance that looks almost hammered by hand but is smooth to the touch (Hermès says it’s coated with aluminum and slate powder). Whether or not the aesthetic is appealing will be a largely subjective matter, but the case has a great weight and feel on the wrist, and the cushion shape is comfortable and seems well suited to casual, daily wear. The case is accented with a black ceramic bezel that makes for a great contrast with...

VIDEO: Speake-Marin’s Ripples Blue Jeans, Speake-Marin Ripples Date and Speake-Marin Academic Revolution
Speake-Marin Mar 27, 2023

VIDEO: Speake-Marin’s Ripples Blue Jeans, Speake-Marin Ripples Date and Speake-Marin Academic

Discover the new novelties of Speake-Marin together with Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor of Revolution. Jeremiah describes the trademark design codes of this cult brand, and how the various features of the Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans, Speake-Marin Ripples Date and Speake-Marin Academic are achieved through different intricate processes.

Alpina brings four new models to their Alpiner Extreme range Time+Tide
Alpina brings four new models Mar 27, 2023

Alpina brings four new models to their Alpiner Extreme range

Alpina adds four new models for 2023 to their newly relaunched Alpiner Extreme line. Three of the new models feature a first for the Alpiner Extreme: an integrated bracelet. The unique Regulator Automatic sees two new versions, limited to 888 examples apiece. It’s time again for Watches & Wonders, where watch brands trot out their … ContinuedThe post Alpina brings four new models to their Alpiner Extreme range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard’s New Limited Edition Takes Wood Dials to a New Extreme Worn & Wound
Louis Erard s New Limited Edition Mar 24, 2023

Louis Erard’s New Limited Edition Takes Wood Dials to a New Extreme

When you write about new watches everyday, it becomes harder and harder to be surprised. Most brands, for better or worse, design watches in an iterative way – new releases might be very, very nice, but truly fresh ideas are few and far between. But that just makes it even more gratifying when something genuinely different comes across the transom, as it did with this absolutely bonkers Louis Erard with a wood dial.  To start with, let’s concede that wood dials themselves are nothing new. Luxury brands have been making dials out of different types of wood for decades, with the trend reaching a peak in the 1970s and 80s. But this Louis Erard Excellence Marqueterie is unlike any other wood dial I’ve ever seen. It continues the Louis Erard trend of combining rare and traditional handcrafts with their unique, contemporary sensibility. Up to now, my favorite example of this idea was their work in the art of guilloche dial making, which took a craft that is undeniably difficult and special, but sometimes aesthetically a bit old fashioned, and made it feel extremely modern.  That first limited edition guilloche dial serves as design inspiration for this watch, made in the marquetry decorative tradition, which consists of inlaying many small pieces of precisely cut wood. Marquetry is most often used in furniture making – think table tops, the backs of chairs, and so forth. Here, miniature marquetry specialist Bastien Chevalier has produced a dial with an elaborate geomet...

Czapek Embraces Titanium in New Dark Sector Antarctique Worn & Wound
Czapek Embraces Titanium Mar 21, 2023

Czapek Embraces Titanium in New Dark Sector Antarctique

One of our favorite high-end independent brands of late has been Czapek, and their Antarctique collection, which has a seemingly endless range, from their remarkable openworked Rattrapante Chronograph, to the serene time-only Frozen Star. This week, the collection welcomes a new addition, in a new material, it’s the Titanium Dark Sector. This is a slightly different expression of the Antarctique design language that we’ve seen in the likes of the Passage De Drake, bringing a slate like appearance to the monotone frame with enough small details to capture your attention. It’s still a modern integrated design and houses the brand’s own showstopper movement, so if you’re a fan of the Antarctique but prefer toned down symmetry, this watch is likely to check all the boxes for you. The Titanium Dark Sector features an integrated case and bracelet design that’s rendered fully in titanium, which should make the 40.5mm diameter and 10.5mm thickness all the more svelte on the wrist. The bracelet integrates to the case via articulating central link that fits into the center of the case, allowing for an even flow around the wrist. Unlike the 38.5mm case Antarctique, this titanium bracelet will not feature chamfers on the final production model. Additionally, there will not be customization options on this watch other than a trio of strap options. The flat gray dial of the Dark Sector is sparse, with all the action happening toward the dial’s perimeter. Applied sections o...

Business News: Tudor New Launches Available on First Day of W&W; in Geneva SJX Watches
F.P. Journe boutique It will be Mar 21, 2023

Business News: Tudor New Launches Available on First Day of W&W; in Geneva

In a first for an establishment watch brand, Tudor is making all of its new launches available on the first day of Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the trade fair that is the watch industry’s largest. The trade fair opens in the morning of Monday, March 27 and starting at noon the same day, the entire Tudor line-up of new models will be available at its pop-up store in downtown Geneva. Located off the city’s main shopping street of Rue du Rhône, the Tudor pop-up store is situated right beside the F.P. Journe boutique. It will be the first store in Switzerland to offer the Black Bay 58 Bronze (pictured above), a model available only in Tudor boutiques. While historical practice for the watch industry was to introduce new models in spring and have them available in stores in summer or later, availability has been slowly inching forward as watch brands realise the advantage of having watches for sale as soon as they are visible online. While W&W; remains a trade fair for industry insiders, namely retailers and journalists, to see new products, Tudor’s pop-up store essentially makes its “novelties” available to the public at the same time. It is not unimaginable that one day new models will be available on the spot at W&W; or its future equivalent. Pop-up details Operated by Swiss retailer Bucherer, the pop-up store opens on the first day of Watches & Wonders, Monday, March 27, 2023 at from 12 pm. It will be open from Monday to Saturday for a month. Place de Longemalle 15 120...

Seiko Introduces New Caliber Within Prospex GMT Diver Collection Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces New Caliber Within Mar 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces New Caliber Within Prospex GMT Diver Collection

Seiko ventures into new (and much requested) territory this week with the release of a new collection of GMT divers within their Prospex family. Using their modern 6159 design language seen in watches like the SPB187 with MM200 roots, the new watches strike a fine balance between their roots, and a strong contemporary vision for the range. Seiko has proven quite adept at this in recent years with their restructuring of their dive watch collections, but these latest examples bring something new to the table: a GMT complication within a new 3 day automatic movement, the 6R54.  The new Prospex GMT diver range welcomes two new references in the SPB381 and 383, and in true Seiko fashion, a single limited edition in the SPB385. Each welcomes the new 6R35 within a steel 42mm case that measures 12.8mm in thickness, and should wear quite similarly to this SPB187 we went hands-on with right here. The angular case gets the distinctive deep chamfer along the lug which has a relatively short overhang to make for a perfectly manageable experience on the wrist. These watches mark the first time a mechanical GMT movement has made its way into the Prospex dive watch, as the GMT diver is something of a niche genre, and may, to some extent, excuse the fact that this is a caller style GMT execution. The GMT hand can be set independently in one-hour increments, making it a better option for those who work with or communicate with other time zones more than for those who travel between them fr...