Two Broke Watch Snobs
Luminox Just Did Something Wild to Its Latest SEAL Diver
Luminox updates its Navy SEAL 3500 series with a fully Carbonox case, bezel, and bracelet-creating the lightest version yet.
Results for The Heuer Carrera (1963)
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Time+Tide
Panerai took over our Melbourne Discovery Studio last night to deep dive into their 2025 releases
Lots of Negronis, lots of Luminors.The post Panerai took over our Melbourne Discovery Studio last night to deep dive into their 2025 releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925
Longines introduced the Zulu Time models to its aviation-influenced Spirit collection in 2022, and the watch’s dual-time complication, stylishly bold design, and undeniable value proposition have made it one of the brand’s biggest hits of the 2020s, spawning additional models in an array of sizes, materials, and color executions. The Spirit Zulu Time is now such a fixture in the Longines portfolio that it almost seems like it has always been there, despite being a relatively recent addition to the lineup; it doesn’t even precede the Covid pandemic, which, of course, somehow seems like it happened only yesterday and yet also in another time and dimension entirely. However, all of that said, Longines’ history of making dual-time or GMT wristwatches like the Zulu Time reaches back much further - 100 years, to be exact. And it is that century milestone to which Longines pays tribute with the latest member of the family, unveiled today: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. Longines Zulu Time History: Longines produced its first “Zulu Time” wristwatch in that eponymous year of 1925, in the heart of the Art Deco era. Very dissimilar to the round-cased modern descendant, that watch had an angular, square case and ornate hour numerals, along with a third hand to indicate a second time zone and, most notably, a Zulu flag emblem with a red letter “Z.” Where did this iconography originate? In military jargon, “Zulu” is the radio transmission articulation for t...
Hodinkee
Auctions: F.P. Journe Reveals Why He Paid More Than $6 Million For A Breguet Clock He Designed - To Showcase In His Upcoming Museum
Watchmaker bested rivals to buy the Breguet Pendule Sympathique No. 1 and says it will be a key part of a new museum dedicated to his work and its place in horology history.
Teddy Baldassarre
Certina DS Action Diver 38mm Review
The Certina DS Action Diver 38mm is a dive watch that has been largely off the radar of many U.S. watch enthusiasts until somewhat recently but is having a moment in our current era, in which sporty utility, striking colorways, value for money, and understated sizing reign supreme in the watch market. How much do you know about the DS Action Diver, including the meaning of “DS,” or about the not-so-famous but very historic Swiss watch brand that produced it? Read on, and you’ll be up to speed. Origins Of Certina Certina traces its roots to 1888, but it wasn’t called Certina back then. That year, a pair of Swiss brothers, Adolf and Alfred Kurth, set up a watchmaking workshop in an annex to their family home in the town of Grenchen (above), initially, to make movements and parts to sell to other watch companies in the region. By 1906, however, they were making enough of their own complete timepieces that they introduced a brand name: Grana, which was a shortened version of the Latin word “Granatus,” referring to Grenchen. The early Grana watches found success, but for several years the Kurth brothers continued to also make and supply movements to other companies; the name “Certina” - another Latin-derived word, from “certus,” for “sure” or “certain” - began appearing on the company’s timepieces in the 1930s. The name, which was also easier to pronounce than “Grana” in more languages, was registered in 1933 and eventually became the c...
Fratello
Retrospective: A Long Hunt For An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” 105.003 Comes To An End
The older I get, the easier it is for me to pass up buying opportunities, especially when the watch in question isn’t 100% perfect and requires a compromise. I was searching for the right example of an Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” ref. 105.003 for six years, but my hunt recently ended, and it couldn’t have […] Visit Retrospective: A Long Hunt For An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” 105.003 Comes To An End to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Knowledge: Popes and Precision - Papal Clocks and Watches
With the recent election of Pope Leo XIV-the first American and Augustinian pontiff-a rare opportunity arises to revisit one of the most intriguing intersections between horology and the papacy. While much attention has historically centered on Pope Leo XIII’s Jubilee in 1888, when Patek Philippe crafted commemorative watches for the occasion, the relationship between watchmaking and the Vatican stretches further back, rooted in the values and vision of Patek Philippe’s co-founder, Antoine Norbert de Patek. A devout Catholic and Polish émigré, Patek viewed watchmaking not merely as a commercial enterprise but as a moral and cultural calling. His personal faith and longstanding connection to the Catholic Church helped shape the company’s enduring ties to religious institutions, most notably the Vatican. This ethos of sacred precision and spiritual patronage found material expression in a number of papal commissions, the most prominent of which emerged during the reign of Leo XIII. Complementing Patek Philippe’s contributions, Vacheron Constantin also played a significant role in this narrative. In collaboration with Parisian retailer Ratel, they produced devotional timepieces that transcended mere functionality, serving as instruments of spiritual reflection. These watches, rich in symbolism and craftsmanship, further exemplify the deep connections between horology and the papacy. Papal Precedents: The Watches of Pius IX Before Leo XIII’s Jubilee, the tradit...
Deployant
New: Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon
Hublot releases the Square Bang Tourbillon, a square shaped case in carbon fibre with a square form movement, with square bridges visible through the dial.
Time+Tide
Who says squares are boring? Hublot’s latest Square Bang has a tourbillon twist
The Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve raises the bar for Square Bangs, debuting an architectural, shaped movement.The post Who says squares are boring? Hublot’s latest Square Bang has a tourbillon twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Pelagos 39 Review
Back in 2012, Tudor unveiled its action-ready diver, capable of surviving depths up to a whopping 500 meters (that’s over 1,640 feet) with the Pelagos. To achieve that extensive depth rating, for many, the necessary tradeoff came with the 42mm sizing that the Pelagos debuted, which is the caveat made with the inclusion of a helium escape valve to make the case more secure in deeper diving excursions. In the years since its release, Tudor has riffed upon the Pelagos in various ways, even including teaming up with the French Marine Nationale to create the FXD extension on the line, and recently, throwing in a GMT complication into the mix. And let's not forget this year's Pelagos Ultra. But we are gathered here today to take a good, long look at the Pelagos many asked for, with the more versatile-sized Tudor Pelagos 39. Despite listening to the audience and essentially delivering what they ordered on a silver platter, the Pelagos 39mm has largely remained in the shadow of the brand’s golden child, the Black Bay 58. When comparing the two, there’s a lot of common ground between the two watches on the surface: they’re of comparable size (the Pelagos 39mm is actually .1mm slimmer), identical levels of water resistance at 200m, and the price difference between the two is under $1,000, which doesn’t seem incredibly significant given the Pelagos 39mm is all in Titanium, which always more costly. So, what is the secret sauce that the Black Bay 58 has that the Pelagos lack...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Out of Office: Exploring Milan with D1 Milano
The post Out of Office: Exploring Milan with D1 Milano appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Complicated Watches at Phillips Hong Kong
Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction encompasses excellent complications at a range of price points. Highlights at the top end include the controversial Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Senza Luna”, a massive Jaeger-LeCoultre exotic tourbillon, a skeletonized Credor chronograph, and a special-order Patek Philippe that was presumably a gift from parent to son. Also on the block are fine pocket watches for the Chinese market on the first day of the sale, while the second and third sale days include notable examples of independent watchmaking. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX takes place from May 23-25, 2025. The full catalogue, and more, is available on Phillips.com. Lot 839 – A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split In 2004, A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Double Split, a chronograph with both split-seconds and split-minutes–a feat previously only accomplished in pocket watches. Never one to stand still, Lange added split-hours into the mix with the Triple Split in 2018. The case is the brand’s typical fare, with distinctive stepped-out lugs, and continues its tradition of placing the split-button in the case band, rather than in the crown, as is the convention for wristwatches. This rose gold variation, of which only 100 were made, is matched with a handsome blue and silver dial. To create the Double Split, Lange built on the landmark L951 movement of the Datograph, adding a pair of rattrapante mechanisms, one for seconds and the other, minutes. From there, Lange added an hour...
Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces a Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar with a Lapis Lazuli Dial
One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (and one of the best watches Zenith has made in years, in my opinion) was the G.F.J., a study in blue and a celebration of the brand’s 160th anniversary. The G.F.J. is something of a no-expenses-spared dream watch, with a platinum case and optional bracelet that basically doubles the price (because why not?) as well as a finely finished movement and loads of history built into the watch’s story, with a focus on the brand’s historic pursuits in chronometry. When I had that watch on my wrist I wondered how the G.F.J. line might expand, and if this watch was an opening salvo in a more ambitious series of releases to come. I don’t know that we have any answers to those questions, necessarily, with the release of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli today, but there’s certainly some connective tissue between Zenith’s newest novelty and the G.F.J. we saw a few months ago. Looking at the latest Zenith Triple Calendar, it’s impossible not to notice a certain aesthetic similarity to the G.F.J. Both make prominent use of lapis lazuli, one of the most common precious stones used in watchmaking. On the G.F.J., lapis is what makes up the majority of the dial space, with the stone in the main dial nicely complementing the blue mother of pearl in the subsidiary seconds. On this new Triple Calendar, the lapis is truly the star of the show, dominating the dial and only yielding for the three subregisters i...
Deployant
New: Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph
Rado releases a chronograph in the popular Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection, the first time this chronograph is in full ceramic case and bracelet.
Fratello
Democracy Is Dead: Luxury Watches Are On An Antidemocratizing Path Of Extreme Exclusivity
How can a brand grow while maintaining exclusivity to uphold the perception of a luxury brand? Increasing accessibility was the right strategy for a while. But this democratization of luxury is becoming a thing of the past. Traditional clients and affluent newcomers in the world of luxury demand exclusivity. For them, luxury is all about […] Visit Democracy Is Dead: Luxury Watches Are On An Antidemocratizing Path Of Extreme Exclusivity to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Keep Calm and Continue Collecting: Advice for an Up and Down Watch Market
Now, it seems fairly evident that we are on the down slope of either a cyclical correction in prices or, if one takes a less optimistic view, a permanent loss of watch value as the mechanical timepiece industry faces a variety of challenges and potential disruptions. So what’s a collector to do?
Teddy Baldassarre
Casio F-91W Review
The Casio F-91W is the best-selling wristwatch of all time, with more than 100 million units sold. This statement comes a pretty significant caveat, which depends on whether or not you consider the Apple Watch - well, a watch. I am a defender of “smartwatches,” but I think they have evolved to the point where “wearable” is a more appropriate term given the fact that their functionality when it comes to communication and health monitoring exceeds what any watch has ever done. So, with that established for the sake of this article, let’s put the 300 million Apple Watch sales aside for now. Casio F-91W History And "Controversy" The Casio F-91W was introduced all the way back in 1989 and is still in production, with the astonishing figure of 3 million units per year. What's even more remarkable is the fact that the Casio F-91W you can buy in 2025 basically looks the same as one you could have bought when it first launched 36 years ago. It was also the first watch designed by Ryuusake Morai, the prolific designer behind some of the most iconic Casio G-Shocks seen today. When a watch has been around as long as this, it can transcend fads and trends, but few can claim immunity/teflon status to an unfortunate PR association like the F-91W when it was used as a timer for explosives. I would absolutely not call it a “controversy,” because that would just be silly, but the always-excellent Watches of Espionage has a fantastic article dedicated to the topic, which you ...
Hodinkee
Gatherings: An Alpine-Inspired Celebration With Range Rover
The new Range Rover Sport Deer Valley Edition makes its anticipated debut in Park City, and we were there to catch it in all its glory.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: A Night Of Horological Splendor With Cartier
Celebrating the Maison's unique 170-year history of the ever-growing Cartier Collection
Hodinkee
Gatherings: A Special Evening With IWC Schaffhausen
Celebrating the grand opening of the brand's first ever boutique in the Washington D.C. area.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: An Evening With Blancpain In NYC
Celebrating the world's oceans and the communities dedicated to their preservation.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: Celebrating Modern Craftsmanship With Ulysse Nardin
The Freak-iest Manufacture expands its OPS capsule collection bringing collectors & enthusiasts together for an NY celebration.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: Unveiling Luxury: Design And Sustainability Meet At Range Rover House in Pebble Beach
The debut of the Range Rover SV Carmel Edition vehicle takes the stage amid the buzz of Monterey Car Week.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: A Special Cartier Roundtable Discussion At Watches & Wonders In Geneva
Amid the hustle and bustle of Watches & Wonders 2024, we hosted a chat that brought Cartier's leadership to the table with some of the brand's most ardent collectors.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: Gübelin Celebrates Its 170th Anniversary With A Watch Designed By Santiago Calatrava
At an exclusive dinner in St. Gallen, Switzerland, the Swiss jeweler and watch retailer invited Hodinkee to reveal the new Ipsomatic, a limited-edition platinum timepiece designed by one of the world's most famous architects.
Hodinkee
Gatherings: Celebrating Two Centuries Of Pioneering Precision With Jaeger-LeCoultre's New Travelling Collection
The brand's Madison Avenue boutique welcomes the latest Duometre collection and a series of exclusive watchmaking workshops.
Hodinkee
Introducing: MB&F;'s Special Project One
The brand's smallest-ever watch is Max Busser's take on what a dress watch could be.
Quill & Pad
New Release: MB&F; Special Project One: Seemingly-Simple, 38 mm, Time-Only, and Simply-Sensational
The MB&F; SP One, initially dubbed "Three Circles", showcases a trinity of floating elements – the barrel, balance wheel, and dial – defying gravity on your wrist.
Deployant
New: MB&F; SP One
After 20 years of crazy looking watches, MB&F; is releasing an elegant, time only 38mm watch. Introducing the MB&F; SP One.
SJX Watches
Hands On: MB&F; SP One
With its fifth new model in as many months, MB&F; has been on quite the run to kick off its third decade. Fresh off the launch of the fun and affordable M.A.D.2, which followed closely on the heels of a collaboration with Bulgari and the introduction of the the Legacy Machine Longhorn editions, the brand has returned with the SP One, a contemporary take on the open-worked dress watch. Sleeker than the typical Horological Machine yet more avant garde than a Legacy Machine, the pebble-like SP One is the first model in a new “Special Projects” collection that packages the brand’s signature contemporary aesthetic in a smaller more wearable 38 mm footprint. The SP One joins the collection as a regular production model in either platinum or 18k rose gold. Initial thoughts Picking up the SP One for the first time, one is struck by the light and airy nature of the watch. On the wrist, the minimalist case almost disappears, making the the SP One something of a wrist-worn display case for the Y-shaped movement. This effect is accentuated with a brushed internal flange dubbed ‘the amphitheater’ that focuses attention on the spectacularly three-dimensional mechanical architecture. The smooth pebble-like case measures 38 mm and is just 12 mm thick, making it the most compact MB&F; watch to-date. The front and rear sapphire crystals are cambered to blend seamlessly with the case, giving the SP One the feel of a polished stone. Visually, the smoothness is emphasised by lugs that ...