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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes – Reprise Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon Dec 11, 2022

Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes – Reprise

As Joshua Munchow swiped through posts on Instagram one day, he was stopped in his tracks, toothbrush dangling from his gaping mouth, eyes wide, and one singular thought running through his head as he stared at his phone: Grand Seiko doesn’t make movements like this. This is an avant-garde tourbillon movement with a constant force escapement and incredible, exposed mechanics! What in the world . . .?! Meet the T0.

Phillips adds a sector touch to their limited-edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dec 10, 2022

Phillips adds a sector touch to their limited-edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is known first and foremost for its baroque-sculptural case design. But another defining feature across the Finissimo Automatic line is the clean dial that crops up through the collection. These dials are typically not very busy, either brushed, sun-ray lacquered, or matte sandblasted, with simply the hour indices and an asymmetrically … ContinuedThe post Phillips adds a sector touch to their limited-edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Insight: Fine Watchmaking Market Map in 2022 SJX Watches
Nov 29, 2022

Insight: Fine Watchmaking Market Map in 2022

For almost as long as I’ve been interested in watches, I’ve tried to find an objective way to visualise the stratification of the various luxury watch brands. I’m as fascinated by the process of watchmaking as much as the products themselves, and I wanted to find a way to differentiate brands based on the production techniques they employ, yet do so objectively. I believe you can tell a lot about a brand’s values and capabilities by looking at their methods, but it can be difficult to penetrate the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing to see what’s really going on behind the curtain. An objective measure: watchmaker-hours per watch In my review of the Saxonia Thin last year, I used the metric “watches per watchmaker” to illustrate the economics of A. Lange & Söhne. While this is not a perfect metric, it is simple and quantitative, and crucially, it can often be derived from publicly available information. Taking this analysis one step further, I added Swiss, German, and Japanese national statistics for working hours to calculate the maximum possible number of watchmaker-hours per watch for more than 50 luxury watch brands. The start of the map, the Saxonia Thin How to interpret this metric The watchmaker-hours metric is not the number of hours that a watchmaker spends on every watch. Rather, it’s the theoretical maximum number of hours that a brand’s watchmakers could possibly spend with each watch. This workrate can be viewed as a simple proxy fo...

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Nov 1, 2022

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review

Pros: Bold rugged designContrasting golden bronze case with the deep blue dial and bezelNumerous strap options as standard to interchange the look  Cons: The Nato strap makes it wear higher on the wrist, as not as flush as we would likeIt’s a larger watch so not for the faint of wrist Date wheel in white, not blue to blend in with the dial Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Rado is one of those brands that does fly a little under the radar, in this writer’s opinion. They have always had good watches, and when it comes to different design materials, like ceramic, they’re up there with the best. I bought my wife a white Rado True Thinline in full ceramic about ten years ago, and it still looks as new as the day I bought it. She loves it and wears it all the time, and is quartz and keeps perfect time (until the battery goes dead, that is!) Which makes me think, why then do guys not think about Rado as they do other mainstream Swiss brands? Maybe it’s because they don’t put giant amounts into marketing with celebrities. Or maybe we’re all too caught up on the hype watches to look elsewhere? In any case, I’ve had the good fortune to try on a few Captain Cook variants this year, and I think Rado is a winner with this model line.   A Watch Line Named After An Adventurer For those that don’t know, the Captain Cook line goes back to 1962 and was aimed at doctors, engineers, athletes, deep sea di...

Up Close: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Second-Generation (Refs. 142.025 and 142.031) SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 24, 2022

Up Close: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Second-Generation (Refs. 142.025 and 142.031)

A certainty after the Zeitwerk Date of 2019 and last year’s Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, the second-generation A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is finally here. As expected, the new Zeitwerk is a gentle evolution from the original in terms of design, but a substantial step forward in technical terms. Known as the ref. 142.025 in platinum and ref. 142.031 in pink gold, the new Zeitwerk is powered by the same revamped movement L043 movement found in the Date and Lumen. As a result, it has all of same upgrades, namely a thinner movement that boasts a quickset corrector for the hours as well as a 72-hour power reserve. The new Zeitwerk in pink gold And the second-generation L043.6 Initial thoughts In a technical sense, the new Zeitwerk is a superior watch, as it should be, coming 13 years after the original. Aesthetically, it remains largely unchanged save for a few nips and tucks, leaving the new model instantly recognisable as a Zeitwerk. In fact, most would be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two generations from across a room. The second generation (left) and its predecessor In the metal the new Zeitwerk looks and feels very much like the original upon initial examination. But the differences quickly become obvious, even though some, like the enlarged seconds, are subtle enough they are difficult to pinpoint. Other tweaks are easier to spot, like the red marking on the power reserve scale. Personally I’m not a fan of the red accent since it creates a peculiar f...

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 17, 2022

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Oct 14, 2022

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review

The Tissot Telemeter 1938, which joined the Swiss brand's vintage-influenced Heritage collection in summer 2022, has garnered enthusiasts' attention with its charmingly retro design, optimized chronograph movement, and enticing price-to-value ratio. We had a chance to go hands-on with both versions of the Tissot Telemeter 1938; read on for the results from our in-depth review. Overview and History By just about any historical standard, 1938 was generally a pretty dark year, marked by the lingering economic woes of the Great Depression, the violence of Kristallnacht, and the slow march to war in Europe, with Germany annexing Austria and partitioning Czechoslovakia in the ill-fated Munich pact. One of the few areas in which forward-thinking creativity and energetic optimism still prevailed in that pre-war era was the world of art and design, which was still showing the influence of the Art Deco movement that had taken root in the 1920s. Wristwatches, which had largely supplanted pocket watches as the go-to portable timekeepers for both civilian and military use, displayed this enduring design ethos while also often incorporating a useful array of functions geared toward the timing of the era’s popular sporting events, many of which involved racing - on horseback, in automobiles, and on skis. Tissot, founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura, was one of the watchmakers that specialized in making these sport-timing instruments. One of the company’s earliest forays as an offic...

Why You Shouldn’t Get Your Better Half Interested In Watches – Reprise Quill & Pad
Oct 9, 2022

Why You Shouldn’t Get Your Better Half Interested In Watches – Reprise

“What, another watch?” she almost screamed in disbelief no sooner than WMMT had opened the front door to his little love nest. Rewind to last week. He had been looking for a Roger Smith Series 1 for some time now, and Jones, his watch dealer, happened to finally locate one. WMMT thought that he had played it pretty safe, so he really doesn’t know how she could have noticed. But what happened next changed the rest of his satirical life.

Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Oct 8, 2022

Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is certainly among the more recognisable watch designs out there, I’d even venture as far as calling it iconic. I’m sure that most of you are already familiar with its origin story, so I won’t bore you with a history lesson. It should suffice to say that the original 1931 design was … ContinuedThe post Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love Time+Tide
Rolex models Oct 3, 2022

Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love

A collaboration between Bamford and Romaric André of seconde/seconde/ feels just perfect, doesn’t it? Bamford made a name for himself by “vandalising” sought-after Rolex models in his signature aqua and black, while seconde/seconde/is renowned for subverting the smallest details of a watch in the most irreverent way possible. Now the pair have finally come together to … ContinuedThe post Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary SJX Watches
Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary Oct 1, 2022

Up Close: Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary

Longines hasn’t launched too many watches this year, but it certainly unveiled a hit with the Master Collection 190th Anniversary. Based on the standard (and somewhat mundane) Master automatic, the anniversary edition sticks to a resolutely classical design but executes the dial in a surprisingly elaborate manner. The grained dial has deeply-engraved hour numerals that seem to be hand engraving at a glance, but are naturally done by machine given the affordability of the watch. Combined with the high-tech ETA calibre within, the Master anniversary offers a lot of watch for relatively little money – we explain why. Initial thoughts The Master anniversary struck me as a watch that is easily appealing when I first saw photos. Perhaps too easily appealing, because the design is a combination of familiar, likeable elements. But the dial seemed to be done unusually well, so I thought it was worth a second look. I wasn’t disappointed with the watch in the metal. The design is indeed a mix of details that are widely used elsewhere, but the execution is interesting enough – and the price sufficiently low – to make the Master anniversary an unexpectedly compelling watch. The fact that the Master anniversary is this compelling is testament to the importance of the dial. Everything else about it is identical to the standard 40 mm model. Even at arm’s length the engraved hour numerals are obvious and instantly give the watch the appearance of something fancier (and more exp...

5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy Time+Tide
Seiko watches you can still Sep 22, 2022

5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy

The changing resale values of Seiko watches is a mystery to most people, with some models soaring and diving within the space of a year. One thing that does always drive up prices, however, is once a model gets discontinued, as I recently discovered with my own $200 Seiko Sapphire. It doesn’t even matter if … ContinuedThe post 5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Three new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial sci-fi and modern elegance Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial Sep 21, 2022

INTRODUCING: Three new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial sci-fi and modern elegance

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 was a controversial release, being one of the first times in recent decades that the brand had created something entirely new and non-sports oriented. Now that the dust has settled, the blend of industrial sci-fi in the case design and contemporary elegance on the dial has become an intriguing platform … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Three new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 meld industrial sci-fi and modern elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.