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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

Zenith Launches their Third Limited Edition with Susan G. Komen Worn & Wound
Zenith Launches their Third Limited Oct 2, 2024

Zenith Launches their Third Limited Edition with Susan G. Komen

Zenith, for the third year in a row, has joined forces with Susan G. Komen, the world’s leading nonprofit breast cancer organization, on a limited edition watch meant to highlight the work Susan G. Komen is doing and raise money for the organization. Last year saw Zenith release a Chronomaster Sport with a light pink dial, and this year’s follow up brings the same aesthetic to the Defy Skyline.  Zenith’s efforts with Susan G. Komen are part of their larger HORIZ-ON initiative, which is a company-wide commitment to “corporate social responsibility.” These initiatives run the gamut and occur all over the world, touching local communities and broader swaths of the population. The ongoing partnership with Susan G. Komen represents “One of the key pillars of ZENITH’s HORIZ-ON initiative,” according to Zenith CEO Benoit de Clerck. The new Defy Skyline Pink is a limited edition of 100 pieces and uses the new 41mm Skyline case (in steel) as the canvas. The Defy, in my opinion, continues to be one of the most underrated sports watch lines in production at the moment. The collection has a long and fascinating heritage, with some truly innovative and provocative design in its past, and it still represents the most forward thinking arm of the Zenith brand today. The Skyline, in its relatively short history, has already proven itself to be a worthy modern successor to the great Defy references of the past.  For this pink dialed limited edition, we get all the hallmark...

The King Seiko “KSK” Line Grows Once Again, with Three New References Worn & Wound
Seiko KSK” Line Grows Once Sep 23, 2024

The King Seiko “KSK” Line Grows Once Again, with Three New References

When it comes to mastering the balance between refinement and artistry, does anyone do it better than Japanese watchmakers? King Seiko’s latest additions to the KSK line-up just proved my point. These three new references – the latest from the recently reintroduced Seiko spin-off brand – are inspired by the company’s roots in Kameido, Tokyo and show not only the beauty of the region, but speak to King Seiko’s history and technical precision. Each dial is something truly unique, bringing traditional Japanese patterns with color gradients. First on the list is SJE103, which takes the deep red of regional plums and turns it into a sanguine interpretation against the dial. SJE107 is a bit more subdued, with a purple gradient and a wisteria-brand pattern that’s subtle (some motifs of nature can be a little too on-the-nose, in my opinion, but this one balances between inspiration and interpretation well). And finally, my favorite, is SJE105, which has a turtle shell pattern and a rich blue dial, inspired by the local Sumida River in Kameido. Each watch runs on Seiko’s Caliber 6L35 automatic movement, offering a 45-hour power reserve. All references measure in at 38.6mm and are crafted from stainless steel with a matching bracelet, making for a dressy option that I think fits the motifs of the dial perfectly. Like other KSK references, these watches recall classic King Seiko case lines that will certainly appeal to vintage watch aficionados. They also serve as a rem...

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Regatta Fratello
Omega Seamaster Regatta Omega has Sep 14, 2024

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Regatta

Omega has a longstanding relationship with the America’s Cup, and marking this year’s race is the new Seamaster Regatta. More than ever before, Omega took the opportunity to develop a purposeful watch for sailors. This watch, regarded as an instrument, just like the X-33 collection, uses an analog and digital display. 37th America’s Cup The […] Visit Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Regatta to read the full article.

Roaring Through The Stages With The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000 Fratello
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000 Sep 12, 2024

Roaring Through The Stages With The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000

The Gumball 3000 kicks off on September 14th in Saigon and culminates in Singapore on September 22nd. This year marks the 25th anniversary of the rally-style event that blends exotic cars, celebrities, and five-star treatment, and the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000 is the official watch for the event. If participants don’t purchase all […] Visit Roaring Through The Stages With The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000 to read the full article.

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Online Auction Fall 2024 SJX Watches
Seiko Izul “bullhead” chronograph We Sep 8, 2024

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Online Auction Fall 2024

The fall auction season kicks off with online auctions, before the primary live sales that take place in November. Phillips in Geneva just opened its online auction with a 70-lot offering of the familiar and mainstream (think Aquanaut, Royal Oak, and Nautilus), but also the esoteric and independent, ranging from an Alain Silberstein perpetual calendar made by Svend Andersen to a Seiko Izul “bullhead” chronograph. We round up a few highlights from the sale, which runs from September 5-12, 2024, with the catalogue and bidding available online. Lot 9 –  Alain Silberstein Marine Perpetual Calendar by Svend Andersen Part of Alain Silberstein’s Marine series of dive watches, the Marine Perpetual is a COSC-certified perpetual calendar in a case rated to 200 m. It’s equipped with a clever, double-sided perpetual calendar movement developed by Svend Andersen. Built on an ETA 2892, the perpetual calendar has a minimalist display with only the date on the dial that’s decorated in Silberstein’s trademark style with geometric shapes, primary colours, along with a starfish, crescent, and sun. On the reverse is the months and leap year in a single register that is mounted on the periphery of the movement, allowing the rotor to travel below the indicator. The Marine Perpetual was a limited edition of 100 watches, though it is likely fewer were made, since they are rarely encountered. It was one of several collaborations that Alain Silberstein in the 1990s with prominent in...

A Holthinrichs Progress Report: Updates on the Signature Collection and the Ornament Nouveau Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Progress Report Updates Sep 4, 2024

A Holthinrichs Progress Report: Updates on the Signature Collection and the Ornament Nouveau

Earlier this spring, when the Worn & Wound team was in Switzerland for Watches & Wonders, we had a somewhat impromptu meeting with the Holthinrichs team at a very pleasant but nondescript Geneva coffee shop, somewhat off the beaten path of watch fair hysteria that grips the city during show season. It was there that we got our first look at the Signature Collection, a major shift in strategy for the brand, now planning to offer watches with a familiarly intricate case design but at a much lower price point than previous collections, thanks to new manufacturing partnerships and a retreat from 3D printing, a process that simply became to expensive as the brand’s designs became more complex. Founder Michiel Holthinrichs also told us about an ambitious new project during this meeting, the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that sits squarely in the haute horlogerie space. At that last meeting, Michiel only had renders of the Ornament Nouveau to show us on his phone, and some crude 3D printed prototype cases (in plastic) of the Signature Collection. Just a few months later, I sat down with Michiel and his team once again, at that same coffee shop, and was able to lay my hands on real watches that were every bit as impressive as I had hoped they’d be. It was a particular treat to see the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that the team is immensely proud of.  A quick caveat – we’re still dealing with prototypes here in the case of the Signature Collection pieces. The team had hoped to be...

Konstantin Chaykin Claims Title for Thinnest Mechanical Watch SJX Watches
Richard Mille outdoing each other Aug 29, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Claims Title for Thinnest Mechanical Watch

The race towards nothingness in ultra-thin watches has picked up in the last years, with brands like Bulgari and Richard Mille outdoing each other in the thinnest-watch stakes. Now Konstantin Chaykin wins the race with his ThinKing, a prototype that comes in at a staggering 1.65 mm in back-to-back thickness - making it the thinnest mechanical timepiece today. Currently the ThinKing is a concept watch in its second prototype stage, constructed and executed by the Moscow-based independent watchmaker, with three pending patents linked to its development.  Initial thoughts While the technical merits are impressive, the watch seems bland on its face, or at least face-on. It appears to be a large, flat piece of steel with a dull finish, sporting twin eye-like registers for the hours and minutes. The ThinKing doesn’t have the visual flair of Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari or Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra. But it is easily recognisable as a Wristmon, the brand’s signature collection of “rolling eye” watches. Since it is only a prototype and the aesthetics are not yet refined for commercial production, the ThinKing’s appearance can be overlooked. The brand name engraved in an arc resembling a smile The ThinKing is absurdly thin at 1.65 mm. This makes it 0.05 mm thinner than the previous record holder for the thinnest mechanical watch, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Mark II. Although imperceptible to the naked eye, the minute reduction is amazing from a technical point...

Auction News: The Original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” Ref. 16599 Emerges at Phillips SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero Aug 26, 2024

Auction News: The Original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” Ref. 16599 Emerges at Phillips

A watch known to insiders but largely unknown, the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” came long before the modern-day version that arrived at Baselworld 2012. It was a ref. 16599 equipped with the cal. 4030 based on the Zenith El Primero that was produced sometime in the 1990s. Now the one-off “Zenith Rainbow” is going under the hammer at Phillips come November when the auction house stages Reloaded, a thematic sale dedicated to watches made between 1980 and 1999. Having been owned by a well-known collector for several years – the same gentleman sold another record-setting Rolex at Phillips several years ago – this ref. 16599 has a bezel set with sapphires in a rainbow graduated due, along with a diamond pave dial with blue sapphire hour markers. I happened to meet the prior owner of this watch and he related the story of how he came to possess the watch. Knowing that backstory, the lavish stone setting and almost-bespoke nature of the watch certainly makes sense. Today’s Rainbow in Everose, the descendent of the ref. 16599 Estimated at over CHF3 million, the Daytona “Rainbow” will be sold on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President during Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999. The auction catalogue will be available closer to the date of sale.  

Hands-On With The Platinum Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Aug 18, 2024

Hands-On With The Platinum Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton is nothing new in itself. The brand introduced the model in stainless steel and rose gold back in 2022. Those two versions presented a monochromatic aesthetic that was very much in line with the stainless steel Tonda PF Micro-Rotor. The brand mixes things up with a platinum case and […] Visit Hands-On With The Platinum Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton to read the full article.

Konstantin Chaykin Debuts Double-Faced Grand Complication SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Aug 12, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Debuts Double-Faced Grand Complication

Having been first seen as a one-off for a charity auction, the Konstantin Chaykin Stargazer is now part of the watchmaker’s catalogue. Originally conceived as a unique piece for the postponed Only Watch 2023, the Stargazer is the independent watchmaker’s most complicated wristwatch to date. Arguably the most successful Russian watchmaker today, Mr Chaykin has long had a passion for astronomy and astrophysics – he created a Martian-time watch in 2018 – so it is unsurprising that the Stargazer is heavily focused on astronomical complications, including a star chart and sunrise-sunset indicator. The complexity of the Stargazer places it in the same rarefied niche of watchmaking occupied by similar grand complications from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and F. P. Journe.  Initial thoughts Virtually identical to the Only Watch unique piece, the regular-production Stargazer remains an exceptional watch. Its complexity is all the more remarkable coming from a small independent outfit, as compared to similar watches developed by large manufacturers.  The Stargazer has a strong design with distinctive lines, with a style that evokes some of Mr Chaykin’s past space-inspired watches. This unique aesthetic differentiates it from most other astronomically-oriented timepieces, which are primarily classical. Additionally, the brand’s trademark Wristmon format is put to good use here, because the Stargazer is indeed a two-faced horological beast.  The unique piece cr...

Introducing the Bremont Broadsword Recon Bronze Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bremont Broadsword Recon Bronze After Aug 8, 2024

Introducing the Bremont Broadsword Recon Bronze

After a controversial release cycle at Watches & Wonders this year, Bremont seems to be iterating on a core design that probably won't raise as many eyebrows this time. The new Bremont Broadsword Recon Bronze is now the next installment within the brand's "Military" lineup. You've seen the design before, but now, Bremont is taking time to refresh some interest in models that didn't spend as much time in the spotlight earlier in the year. Personally, I like the look-even though the case material would usually lead me to shy away.

Delma Releases a Limited Edition Chronograph to Continue their 100th Anniversary Celebration Worn & Wound
Aug 2, 2024

Delma Releases a Limited Edition Chronograph to Continue their 100th Anniversary Celebration

Earlier this year we told you about Swiss brand Delma’s 100th anniversary celebration, which kicked off with the release of a limited edition tourbillon. Of course, plenty of brands release tourbillons and they are a natural for a celebratory watch, but very few come in at under $10,000, which the Delma did during its pre-order period (the full retail price is $13,900, which is still quite affordable for a Swiss tourbillon). Their latest effort, announced last month, has also been released to coincide with the brand’s centenary, but it’s a bit more modest in its focus. The new Heritage Chronograph 100 Years Limited Edition pays tribute to Delma’s long history of making chronographs in a handsome package that’s a bit more under the radar (and more affordable) than their release from earlier in the year.  Delma traces their history of making chronographs to the mid 1940s when the brand’s focus began to shift to sport oriented watches. Over the years, they’ve made watches for just about every sporting discipline that a well rounded watch brand would ever attempt, including dive watches, timepieces meant for racing of all kinds, as well as travel watches. The new Heritage Chronograph has several clear vintage cues meant to tie this watch to the brand’s earliest sports watches.  Like many WWII era and later mid century chronographs, the Heritage Chronograph features both tachymeter and telemeter scales at the dial’s outer perimeter. Red accents within the te...

Editorial: LVMH and Rolex Vying for Formula 1 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Jul 25, 2024

Editorial: LVMH and Rolex Vying for Formula 1

Rumours started earlier this month that Rolex had “lost” its prime status as official timekeeper for Formula 1 to TAG Heuer. That, as it turns out, is not true – yet. According to a senior LVMH executive speaking off the record, a deal between F1 and the French luxury group – and not just one of its constituent brands – is close but not yet a done deal. This was also echoed by Jean-Jacques Guiony, LVMH chief financial officer, during a conference call with analysts to present the group’s second quarter financial results. In fact, any announcement of LVMH closing the deal will likely come after the Paris 2024 Olympics that counts LVMH as one of its lead sponsors. The situation is more than just Rolex “losing” the sponsorship to TAG Heuer. It’s not about the financial resources of Rolex, which for all intents and purposes are limitless, but about the breadth and depth of the LVMH portfolio, as well as Rolex’s growing emphasis on conservation as a key part of its brand. Three elements are crucial in understanding the sponsorship deal with F1, which is enjoying a revival in popularity with its hit Netflix series Formula 1: Drive to Survive and new race locations like the Miami Grand Prix. The first is the matching clause that is common in such deals and will inevitably be part of the F1 sponsorship contract. This gives Rolex a matching right – it has the right to match a competing offer for the same sponsorship. In other words, if Rolex wanted to, it can...

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph... Jul 23, 2024

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

Vacheron Constantin’s flagship launch for the year is the Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication, but it a 1 kg pocket watch with 63 complications and an eight-figure price tag commissioned by a billionaire insurance entrepreneur. For more ordinary well-off persons, the brand’s halo product is the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine. Based on a model launched in pink gold in 2020, the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine is a large but elegant watch executed to a high level, with both fine movement decoration and the usual all-platinum CEP treatment. A periodic offering from Vacheron Constantin (VC) since 2006, the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a series of limited editions that are variations of regular production models enhanced with the liberal use of platinum throughout the watch. Typically that means a platinum case and clasp, which are ordinary, but also an unusual sandblasted platinum dial and also a strap stitched with platinum-and-silk thread. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the CEP series because it’s a subtle twist on the standard version, with the differences only really apparent to those in the know. At the same time, because the CEP treatment is simple, it often works better on some models than others. With the CEP line now almost 20 years old, there are about a dozen CEP editions to demonstrate that point. The platinum treatment arguably works best with more complicated watches like the Tradit...

Raymond Weil’s Millesime Gets a Denim-Blue “Sector” Dial SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Jul 18, 2024

Raymond Weil’s Millesime Gets a Denim-Blue “Sector” Dial

Launched just last year, Raymond Weil’s “sector” dial is getting new livery with the Millesime Automatic Small Seconds Denim Blue. Not a vintage reissue per se but a modern take on a vintage-inspired design, the Millesime has a “sector” or “scientific” dial segmented into sections, subtly stepped on the periphery and frosted in the centre for a two-tone effect. The case is topped with a box-shaped sapphire crystal and narrow lugs for subtle retro charm. Initial thoughts Family-run Raymond Weil is a brand that might be familiar to watch enthusiasts but not top of mind – that’s because the brand had its heyday in the 1980s and 1990s when it was a major seller of affordable Swiss watches. Since then it has gradually fallen behind the competition with mostly unimaginative products; The New York Times describes the brand as a “mainstay of shopping malls”. With last year’s launch of the Millesime, a watch geared towards enthusiasts, the brand is trying to revive its offerings and reputation. It quickly found some success: the Millesime Small Seconds with a silver dial won the Challenge Prize (for watches retailing for less than CHF3,000) at last year’s  Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève. Near-perfect proportions at 39.5 mm in diameter and just over 10 mm high In the hand, it’s obvious the Millesime is much, much better than most recent Raymond Weil creations. Even though the design isn’t exactly original, it shows attention was paid to the de...

Hands-On: the Haim Viajero Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin e “Cornes de Vache” Jul 12, 2024

Hands-On: the Haim Viajero Worldtimer

I’ll be honest, I started off my experience with the new Viajero coming from a pretty far off and distant place. No, not some cool and remote corner of the world, but as a person who was largely unfamiliar with both Haim as a brand and also the concept of a worldtimer. While I have a GMT in my personal collection, the idea of tracking several time zones via a worldtimer never seemed like something on my radar. Am I classy enough for this? Is a worldtimer even worth the typically large price tag that they command? I remember seeing an Omega worldtimer that was pretty cool…oh right, that’s pushing $10k and not exactly at the top of my spend-ten-thousand-dollars-on-a-watch list.  When the Haim Viajero came across my desk, the first thing I thought was how interesting it is to get a worldtimer complication for a fair amount under a thousand bucks, and that’s exactly what the watch accomplishes. Pack your carryon and prepare for a few layovers, we’re going worldtiming. Case A 38.5mm diameter is a pretty nice spot to be if you’re a watch case. It often hits that goldilocks “just right” feeling, especially on my 6.75” wrist. At 45.5mm lug-to-lug and12mm tall, the watch is firmly in mid-sized territory. The Viajero is largely circular from the top down, featuring lugs that borrow heavily from the celebrated Vacheron Constantine “Cornes de Vache”. The result is nice and clean, and it looks as though the sharp, yet curved lugs are holding up the case in an ele...

A Monday Morning With The Grooviest Watch In The World: The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak” Fratello
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak” Jul 8, 2024

A Monday Morning With The Grooviest Watch In The World: The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak”

Grand Seiko’s first all-mechanical complicated watch debuted in 2022. It was a timepiece with a movement featuring a tourbillon with an inner carriage rotating at eight beats per second and a constant-force mechanism rotating at one beat per second. Not only was the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 a complicated and ingenious watch, but […] Visit A Monday Morning With The Grooviest Watch In The World: The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak” to read the full article.

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris Jul 1, 2024

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris

The Summer Olympics will kick off in Paris in less than a month. Zenith has created the Defy Skyline Édition Paris to help celebrate the occasion. It uses a different style of dial, which may leave potential buyers wishing that this limited edition watch wasn’t only offered in France. Omega is the first brand that […] Visit Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris to read the full article.

Monday Morning With The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520RG - A Two-Tone Grand Complication Fratello
Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Ref Jul 1, 2024

Monday Morning With The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520RG - A Two-Tone Grand Complication

You’ve seen the Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time before but never in a two-tone look. Since Watches and Wonders 2024, there’s the reference 5520RG, a very complicated and exclusive travel watch in rose and white gold. The colorway might sound very 1990s, but the sunburst dial is very en vogue. Do we start with the […] Visit Monday Morning With The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520RG - A Two-Tone Grand Complication to read the full article.

The Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon and its V16 Engine Automaton SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Jun 24, 2024

The Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon and its V16 Engine Automaton

Just after Bugatti took the covers off its Tourbillon hypercar, Jacob & Co. presents a watch to match, the Bugatti Tourbillon. Integrating some of the most distinct design elements of the car, the Tourbillon watch is extravagant in both style and mechanics, combining a retrograde time indication with a flying tourbillon, and a striking automaton modelled on a V16 engine.  Initial thoughts As over the top as the Tourbillon wristwatch might be at first, it unexpectedly incorporates subtle details and nods to the newest Bugatti automobile. Apart from the obvious engine automaton, the watch case is modelled on the car’s unique instrument cluster layout and indications. The mechanical instrument cluster in the Bugatti Tourbillon hypercar The piece is unapologetically automotive, taking the same approach in emulating the eponymous hypercar first seen in the Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon. Like the Chiron wristwatch, the Tourbillon is an oversized mechanical object for the wrist. A mini engine Clearly the showpiece of the Tourbillon is the V16 engine automaton with an engine block milled from sapphire. The mock engine features eight pairs of articulated titanium pistons and polished parts modelled on the intake manifolds of an actual Bugatti V16. When the automaton is engaged, the pistons “fire up” in the appropriate sequence, putting on a very interesting show.  Above the V16 engine block sits the time indication. Arranged to resemble the instrument cluster found ...

Hands-On With The New Anthracite Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition Fratello
Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition Jun 24, 2024

Hands-On With The New Anthracite Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition

We kick off this Tuesday morning with the world premiere of the new Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition. It is the follow-up to last year’s inaugural redesigned One Week First Edition, which was nothing short of impressive. Both watches celebrate Armin Strom’s debut in-house caliber from 2010 in a sleek, modern way. The ever-impressive […] Visit Hands-On With The New Anthracite Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition to read the full article.