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El Primero Zenith

The 1969 36,000 vph automatic chronograph saved from the quartz crisis by Charles Vermot.
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El Primero Zenith

Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
50 Years Of Automatic Chronographs And The Recent Debuts From Zenith, TAG Heuer, And Seiko Commemorating The Milestone Invention(s) Quill & Pad
TAG Heuer Dec 13, 2019

50 Years Of Automatic Chronographs And The Recent Debuts From Zenith, TAG Heuer, And Seiko Commemorating The Milestone Invention(s)

1969 marked the introduction of the world’s first self-winding chronographs. These were presented by Zenith with its El Primero, Seiko with the 5 Speedtimer, and an illustrious group consisting of Breitling, Heuer/Leonidas, and Hamilton/Büren, with the Chronomatic Caliber 11. Sabine Zwettler takes us through the history and looks at three of the latest-generation commemorative automatic chronographs by these early pioneers.

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Zenith Defy Classic Blue Ceramic Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Classic Blue Ceramic Nov 14, 2019

Zenith Defy Classic Blue Ceramic Review

The future of watchmaking for Zenith can be narrowed down to one word: Defy. The Defy collection started with the release of the Defy El Primero 21 back in 2017, which was the quite amazing hundredth-of-a-second chronograph. This was followed by the first-generation Defy Lab (known now as Defy Inventor), which Zenith states is the world’s most accurate watch with its new ground-breaking monocrystalline silicon oscillator. Luckily enough, we had a chance to review the Zenith Defy Inventor as well, which you can check out here. Zenith has added a mini collection of three ceramic models to the Defy Classic range. The models in the Defy Classic Collection has a three-hand plus date feature and comes in three colour variations: White ceramic, Black ceramic and Blue ceramic. The piece we have on our hands today is the elegant Defy Classic Blue Ceramic. Having a colour outside of the typical white and black in a ceramic, which is the norm, definitely brings something different to the table. Although the colour blue may have its limitations with what it can be worn with, compared to all black and white ceramic watches. Despite this limitation, the blue ceramic certainly is an eye-catcher when on the wrist. Like the other two models in the Zenith Defy Classic Ceramic range, the blue ceramic comes with its own matching blue rubber strap.  Sometimes having too much of the same colour throughout the watch can be too “in your face” as well. The blue used by Zenith for this cera...

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Zenith Defy Inventor Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Inventor Review Zenith’s Oct 21, 2019

Zenith Defy Inventor Review

Zenith’s reputation for developing groundbreaking technology and movements in their watches have once again been redeemed with the release of the Zenith Defy Inventor. Back in 1969, Zenith first released the El Primero self-winding chronograph movement. To this day after slight tweaks, it is still being used in their El Primero line of watches. The El Primero movement is regarded as one of the finest movements in the watchmaking industry, succeeding in having a high frequency while putting out a power reserve of approximately 50 hours.  In 2017, Zenith once again manufactured a timepiece that would be revolutionary for not only the brand but the watch industry as a whole. The Defy Lab contains what Zenith claims as the world’s most accurate mechanical movement. Operating at 15Hz, the movement in the Defy Lab is much faster than most mechanical watches in the industry, including the brands very own El Primero movement, which operates at roughly 5Hz.  What made the Defy Lab so special was the proprietary “Zenith Oscillator” developed Guy Semon from LMVH. The Zenith Oscillator in a nutshell, takes into consideration real-world scenarios, which includes environmental and temperature changes, vibration and also shocks. The Zenith Defy Lab, however, was limited to a run of 10 “piece unique” watches, which meant that the general public would find it hard to acquire these impressive timepieces.  Fast forward to Baselworld 2019, where Zenith released the Defy Invento...

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Seiko Introduces the Prospex SRQ029 & Presage SRQ031 Chronographs SJX Watches
Breitling Buren-Dubois-Depraz Caliber 11 – Oct 4, 2019

Seiko Introduces the Prospex SRQ029 & Presage SRQ031 Chronographs

Nineteen-sixty nine was a watershed year in watchmaking – the culmination of the race for the world’s first automatic chronograph. It was a three-way contest between two Swiss watchmakers and one from Japan. Both Swiss movements – the Zenith El Primero and the Heuer-Breitling-Buren-Dubois-Depraz Caliber 11 – have enjoyed a following to this day, but the third – the Seiko 6139 Speedtimer – remains relatively obscure as it went out of production in 1979. The 6139 was a single-register chronograph with a 30-minute totaliser at six o’clock and a quickset day-date display. Crucially, it had a column wheel and vertical clutch. And an even lesser known fact is that Seiko produced its first chronograph – the “Crown” with a column-wheel and mono-pusher – just five years before, in 1964 to coincide with that year’s Tokyo Olympic Games. In short, the 1960s were a major decade for Seiko in terms of chronographs. The Seiko “Crown” chronograph of 1964 with its characteristic black plastic bezel Hence, to mark the 50th anniversary of its first automatic chronograph, as well as the 55th anniversary of its first chronograph, Seiko has unveiled a pair of limited editions, both chronographs, naturally. The two editions are each limited to 1000 pieces and powered by the same calibre, the in-house cal. 8R48 that was introduced in 2014. The first and the more modern looking of the two, is the Prospex 50th Anniversary Automatic Chronograph ref. SRQ029. I...

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The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Zenith Luna Rossa” Sep 23, 2019

The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s

The most talked-about watch at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is lot 2300, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona powered by a Zenith El Primero movement that’s described as “a possibly unique… chronograph wristwatch with a red dial”. And as with all high-profile watches, the auctioneers have given the watch an Italian nickname, “Luna Rossa”, which translates as “red moon”. The reason the “Luna Rossa” is controversial is because such a red dial has never ever been seen before. Usually unicorns are known and whispered about, even if seldom seen, but the “Luna Rossa” has surprised everyone. Experts and insiders I approached have neither encountered nor heard of such a dial, which makes it quite a revelation. But they all agree it is correct – in the sense that all elements are identical to known Rolex dials of the period – though of unknown origin. Sotheby’s itself hasn’t provided much background about the watch, either officially or unofficially. Unlike the unique platinum Daytona “Zenith” that Sotheby’s sold last year, setting a record price for a modern Daytona, which had a backstory that was I managed to uncover, the “Luna Rossa” remains a mystery. The dial is glossy red lacquer, with gold indices and sub-dials When such unusual dials emerge, the immediate question is one of authenticity. The “Luna Rossa” passes the test – the dial is correct in its details. The element usually regarded as crucia...

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Events: Zenith “A Star Through Time” Exhibition in Singapore SJX Watches
Zenith A Star Through Time” Aug 5, 2019

Events: Zenith “A Star Through Time” Exhibition in Singapore

Created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the automatic chronograph movement that’s synonymous with Zenith, A Star Through Time embarks on world tour that starts in August, with the first stop being Singapore. Happening during the exhibition is a panel discussion that includes our founder, Su Jiaxian, as well as several watchmaking classes – details on how to attend are at the bottom. The exhibition The key attraction of A Star Through Time is an interactive, virtual tour of Zenith’s manufacture in Le Locle. It’s modelled on Le Monde Étoilé de Zenith, a collaboration between the watchmaker and Neuchâtel’s local tourism authority. Conceived to boost knowledge of watchmaking in the area, the project created a interactive, 360° experience that allows guests to go behind-the-scenes at the manufacture. Walking through the exhibition is akin to a stroll through a scaled down version of the Le Locle manufacture, including a virtual visit to the famous attic where, during the Quartz Crisis, watchmaker Charles Vermot hid the tools and plans to produce the El Primero, keeping them out of the hands of American managers who wanted to eliminate production of mechanical watches. The 400m2 exhibition also traces the evolution of the El Primero, illustrated by significant El Primero-powered watches, including the landmark early examples like the A386 in steel and G381 in 18k gold. Though dedicated to the El Primero, arguably the first ever sel...

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‘Too big, too chunky, not versatile…’ Why the Fifty-Eight was the answer to this guy’s Tudor Black Bay blues … Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Apr 8, 2019

‘Too big, too chunky, not versatile…’ Why the Fifty-Eight was the answer to this guy’s Tudor Black Bay blues …

Editor’s note: There were some notable absences at Baselworld 2019. A new Milgauss from Rolex, a new Monaco from TAG Heuer; in fact, the only birthday that happened on schedule, apart from the barnstorming return of Doxa in time for its 130th, was the glorious profusion of Zenith El Primero models. But no missing model was quite … ContinuedThe post ‘Too big, too chunky, not versatile…’ Why the Fifty-Eight was the answer to this guy’s Tudor Black Bay blues … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: Evoque’d – the Zenith Defy Classic Range Rover Edition Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Classic Range Rover Dec 4, 2018

INTRODUCING: Evoque’d – the Zenith Defy Classic Range Rover Edition

Zenith hold a certain affinity for mechanical machines – and not just of the time-telling variety. From pilot watches that celebrate all things planes and motorbikes, to El Primero-powered chronographs that take their open road inspiration from the world of classic cars. For the past three years the Swiss manufacturer has also enjoyed a partnership … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Evoque’d – the Zenith Defy Classic Range Rover Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: 6 of the best new Zenith releases of 2018  Time+Tide
Zenith releases May 15, 2018

VIDEO: 6 of the best new Zenith releases of 2018 

It was clear from Zenith’s 2018 collection that the Defy line was a major priority. Because while there were Pilot, Chronomaster and Elite models on offer, the Defy was the star of the show, with everything from the awesomely complex El Primero Zero G through to the comparatively simple, but still quality, Defy Classics. It’s … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 6 of the best new Zenith releases of 2018  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Unholy Grail: Why the comically dated TAG Heuer S/el is a true guilty pleasure Time+Tide
TAG Heuer S/el Jan 21, 2023

Unholy Grail: Why the comically dated TAG Heuer S/el is a true guilty pleasure

No matter how tasteful your watch collection, no matter how stuffed your portfolio is with blue chip stocks like no-date Subs, pre-Moon Speedys, or the perfect Cartier Tank, there’s probably a black sheep lurking somewhere. Your questionable choices. Your dark secrets. The one that’s horribly out of fashion, objectively unattractive, or just plain bizarre. Be … ContinuedThe post Unholy Grail: Why the comically dated TAG Heuer S/el is a true guilty pleasure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands-on – The Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Cloud Blue (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Cloud Blue Nov 26, 2025

Hands-on – The Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Cloud Blue (Incl. Video)

Frederique Constant already impressed us with the salmon dial version launched as a Europe-exclusive model. The recent blue-dial Frederique Constant Classics Premiere on bracelet is another proof that “accessible luxury” doesn’t have to mean “generic.” It’s still the same compact, classically styled three-hander launched in 2023, but the move to a differently styled dial and […]

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First Look – New Full-Steel and Blue Editions of the Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Frederique Constant Sep 5, 2025

First Look – New Full-Steel and Blue Editions of the Frederique Constant Classics Premiere

Frederique Constant, the brand that has cemented a reputation for accessible luxury, unveils two new iterations of its Classics Premiere unisex dress watch. Dressed in attractive pastel dial colours, the compact 38.5mm case size is paired with a new stainless steel bracelet for a more contemporary and versatile look. When applied to watchmaking, the term […]

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