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Results for Grand Feu Enamel

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Grand Feu Enamel

Porcelain-like dial technique; fired at 800-900°C with five or more firings.

Roger Dubuis Summons Merlin and King Arthur’s Knights SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 10, 2025

Roger Dubuis Summons Merlin and King Arthur’s Knights

Roger Dubuis continues its decade-long exploration of Arthurian mythos with The Enchanter Merlin, the twelfth iteration in its fantastical Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, and the second Merlin-themed watch in the series. At the heart of the spectacle is a highly architectural dial composed of 56 stepped columns, inspired by the basalt pillars of Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. The columns are rendered in a variety of materials, including Murano glass, vitreous enamel, and invisibly set diamonds. Above them stand 12 hand-engraved knights, each a unique character from the Matter of Britain, the medieval tales of King Arthur and his knights. Initial Thoughts Geneva has a long tradition in the decorative arts dating to the 18th century, mostly focused on enamelled boxes, small clocks, and of course, watches. It’s only natural that a Genevan watchmaker like Roger Dubius would continue that tradition, as do neighbouring Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. In 2013, Roger Dubius launched the first KRT watch with a miniature enamel replica of the famous Round Table in Winchester’s Great Hall. Since then Roger Dubuis has pushed the boundaries of what can be reasonably called a “table” with striking results. While the miniatures were what made the first KRT special, The Enchanter Merlin’s basalt pillar-inspired crystal palace dial could easily stand on its own (perhaps Kollokium should take notes for its next Projekt). The 45 mm case is 18k pink gol...

Introducing: The Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki And Usuki Models Fratello
Kurono Tokyo Hajime Asaoka Kikuchi […] Sep 27, 2025

Introducing: The Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki And Usuki Models

Switzerland, Germany, and Japan make up my “big three” of the watchmaking world, with France on the rise. Yet, of all these hubs, Japan has been slow to embrace the microbrand trend. Big brands, including Seiko, Grand Seiko, Citizen, Orient, and Casio, dominate the market. Recently, however, independents such as Kurono Tokyo, Hajime Asaoka, Kikuchi […] Visit Introducing: The Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki And Usuki Models to read the full article.

Hands On: Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite When it Sep 25, 2025

Hands On: Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite

When it comes to planetarium wristwatches, Christiaan van der Klaauw (CvdK) has little competition, since it owns much of the intellectual property behind the complication. But that hasn’t stopped the brand from competing with itself, and the result the Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite, the most complete model of the solar system ever put in a wristwatch. It’s a maximalist approach to the planetarium concept that’s almost overwhelming in look and feel, thanks to the rich texture of its solid 44 mm meteorite case and busy dial. Building on the Grand Planetarium Eccentric from 2024, the Eccentric Meteorite manages to squeeze in the astroid belt, which is itself embellished with chunks of meteorite that originated on Mars. Intended to be a limited edition of three pieces, it’s possible that just two will be made given the limited quantity of meteorite on hand. The sun at the center of the dial functions as a running indicator, rotating once per minute. Initial thoughts The planetarium is among the most romantic of all complications due to its inherent uselessness; unlike a minute repeater or perpetual calendar, there’s not much action that can be taken with the information provided. But mankind has sought to understand its place in the universe for millennia, and the planetarium offers an intuitive way to visualise our real-time location relative to the sun and the other planets in our solar system. There’s also a strange appeal to the glacially slow speed of...

Introducing: The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance In Tantalum Fratello
Sep 24, 2025

Introducing: The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance In Tantalum

Independent watchmaking is often most interesting when it balances tradition with something fresh. That is exactly what Nicolas Delaloye has done with the Renaissance. On paper, it’s a classical dress watch with an enamel dial and a hand-wound movement. However, the case is made of tantalum, one of the most intriguing and difficult metals to […] Visit Introducing: The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance In Tantalum to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Best of Geneva Watch Days SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Sep 16, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of Geneva Watch Days

On episode 10 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the highlights and hands-on impressions from Geneva Watch Days, including the Greubel Forsey QP Balancier, Lange 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel, Gérald Genta’s new Minute Repeater, and the latest perpetual calendars from Audemars Piguet. We also discuss the significance of Tag Heuer’s carbon hairsprings; after a short-lived launch in 2019, the brand has taken a mulligan and relaunched this technology with a key difference that might make carbon hairsprings a real alternative to silicon. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Introducing: The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater - A Small Watch With A Big Sound Fratello
Gerald Genta Sep 4, 2025

Introducing: The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater - A Small Watch With A Big Sound

It looks like a watch, and it sounds like a musical instrument. The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater is a resonating 40 × 9.6mm yellow gold grand complication with a black onyx dial. And according to the watch’s creators, a musical instrument comes alive when you sound the time. The watchmakers behind this masterpiece set out […] Visit Introducing: The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater - A Small Watch With A Big Sound to read the full article.

Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal Fratello
Laurent Ferrier Sep 4, 2025

Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal

In 2010, Laurent Ferrier launched his independent career with the Classic Tourbillon, a watch that immediately won the Men’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. That first creation set the tone for the Geneva-based brand - understated designs hiding serious horological substance. Now, 15 years later, Laurent Ferrier celebrates this milestone with […] Visit Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal to read the full article.

King Seiko SPB389 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Aug 22, 2025

King Seiko SPB389 Review

Everyone knows about Seiko and Grand Seiko, but…what exactly is King Seiko? Well, King Seiko is one of those cult-classic throwbacks that dodges easy categorization or market segmentation. The 1960s elegance and sheer retro vibes exuded by this collection is charming and a little quirky in a world where big brother Grand Seiko has reached downright mainstream status. In 2021, the King Seiko KSK SJE083 resurrected the historic KSK model and the collection has slowly grown since then under the Seiko Luxe collection of higher-end offerings. Here we see the Seiko SPB389, which is a mid-century-inspired watch that will appeal to the kind of person who loves being early to a trend. Seiko Luxe Explained First off I wanted to address the Seiko Luxe collection, because I know not everyone is up to date with the tiers of Seiko. Where standard Seiko is your more classic, accessible fare, the Seiko Luxe collection is the higher-end series that consists of offerings like King Seiko as well as Presage watches with special touches like enamel dials and the more refined pieces in the Prospex collection. Seiko Luxe generally starts around the $750 mark and goes up to over $3,000, so the range is quite broad. Personally, the only Seiko watch I’ve ever purchased is from the Seiko Luxe collection (an enamel dial Presage I reviewed here) and it really is so much watch for the money. King Seiko SPB389 Case and Bracelet When King Seiko first returned to the scene a couple of years back, it w...

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute to the Celestial” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute Aug 12, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute to the Celestial”

Long a pillar of Vacheron Constantin’s line-up, Métiers d’Art has usually been about figurative, decorative, and classical watches, with traditional motifs and techniques being a recurring theme. The Métiers d’Art “Tribute to the Celestial” is, however, different in style from the usual Métiers d’Art offers, although its distinctive look is inspired by a one-off grand complication from 2021. The Tribute to the Celestial is a combination of familiar elements, but executed in a surprising way. It’s centred on traditional techniques, namely the hand guilloche dial and gem-set case, but modern in approach and aesthetics. The palette is largely blue and almost monochromatic, while the guilloche forms a geometric, polygonal motif. Initial thoughts At a distance, the Tribute to the Celestial is not what you expect. Across a room, it looks like a shiny, all-blue watch that could be ceramic or another contemporary material. It also doesn’t reveal much detail. But up close the Tribute to the Celestial shows off lots of refined detailing; it’s a double dose of metiers d’art, engine turning and gem setting. The primary metiers d’art on the Tribute to the Celestial is the guilloche on the dial that is done by hand in-house at Vacheron Constantin’s engine turning workshop. Instead of the common guilloche found on many watches, this employs straight lines at different angles to create a polygonal motif that forms a zodiac symbol, illustrating the versatility of...

Best Watches Under $10,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 21, 2025

Best Watches Under $10,000

Building a watch collection is generally a progression, beginning with the accumulation of a handful of modestly priced favorites and building toward the quest for pricier and more coveted models as one's knowledge and disposable income grow. We've showcased many worthwhile models in many price categories, but it's the sweet spot between $5,000 to about $10,000 that many consider the most fertile ground for finding some of those Holy Grails of timekeeping from some of the world's legendary watch brands. If you're in the market for your first "icon" watch (and you're looking to buy new rather than vintage or pre-owned), here are 21 of the best watches under $10,000 to consider, all topping out below the five-figure price barrier. Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price: $5,900 Reference:SBGM221, Case Size: 39.5mm, Case Height: 13.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: GS 9S66 In 2017 Grand Seiko released the SBGM221 GMT which has stood as one of the brand’s best values to date. Inspired by some of their 1960s designs, the SBGM221 is characterized by that simple ivory-colored dial and vibrant blue GMT hand not to mention the eminently wearable 39.5mm wide steel case. And then there is the Zaratsu polishing throughout the case and dial which plays with the light in a way that only Grand Seiko seems able to do. The Caliber 9S66 is a tried and tested “true” GMT movement that allows you do independently adjust the hour hand and operates at 4 Hz w...

Vacheron Constantin’s “Tribute to The Celestial” Artfully Blends Gemstones and Guilloché SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s “Tribute Jul 7, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s “Tribute to The Celestial” Artfully Blends Gemstones and Guilloché

Continuing with its 250th anniversary special editions in fine style, not long after the Temporis Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin’s latest is the 12-piece-strong Métiers d’Art “Tribute to The Celestial”. Each watch is dedicated to symbol of the zodiac, with the respective constellation rendered in hand guilloché on the dial, while the case is set with baguette-cut sapphires totalling almost 4 ct. Fortunately available individually instead of only as a set, each “Tribute to The Celestial” watch is powered by the cal. 2160, an automatic movement with a tourbillon and novel peripheral winding mechanism. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin (VC) has long combined complications and gemstones, though in a relatively low-key manner since such watches were rarely announced publicly. The series of Overseas Perpetual Calendars set with coloured stones, for example, was never widely publicised. The “Tribute to The Celestial” demonstrates what VC can do with its in-house guilloche workshop and gem setting (which is probably not done in house). The watches are striking and beautiful, though certainly only for fans of blue, and only blue. Despite the gemstones and guilloche, the watches look surprisingly modern, likely due to the colour as well as the geometric nature of the engine turning. Though the guilloche is done the old school way on a hand-operated machine, the engraved zodiac symbols look nothing like traditional guilloche. Not all the zodiac emblems a...

Breguet Unveils First-Ever Flying Tourbillon with Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 SJX Watches
Breguet Unveils First-Ever Flying Tourbillon Jun 26, 2025

Breguet Unveils First-Ever Flying Tourbillon with Tourbillon Sidéral 7255

Breguet celebrates a milestone by looking to the stars with the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255, which is the brand’s first flying tourbillon and also dressed up with an aventurine enamel dial. The Tourbillon Sidéral is the brand’s latest anniversary edition – and the most complicated so far – coming after the Classique Souscription and more recent Type XX 2075BH. Initial Thoughts Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshop only built between 40 to 49 tourbillons in his lifetime, explaining the mythical rarity of the mechanism in historical watchmaking. Now more tourbillons are built in a single day – possibly even by a single brand – than during Breguet’s entire lifetime. Consequently, the tourbillon is no longer regarded with the reverence it enjoyed for centuries. Tourbillons aren’t inherently special today, but still have appeal when executed well; the whole of the parts can be more than the sum of the parts. The Tourbillon Sidéral is executed well and appealing. Flying tourbillon aside, the rest of the watch is very good, though not ground breaking. As with Breguet’s other 250th anniversary models, the Tourbillon Sidéral is more interesting aesthetically than technically since the movement is derived from the longstanding Lemania calibre. That approach will change as the year’s end approaches as Breguet has something bigger in the pipeline. For now, the Tourbillon Sidéral is an excellent watch that may suffer under the weight of expectations, but per...

Vacheron Constantin’s Temporis is a Unique Double Complication SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Temporis Jun 20, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s Temporis is a Unique Double Complication

Les Cabinotiers is Vacheron Constantin’s programme dedicated to one-off and special-order watches. The latest to emerge from the workshop is the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, a large, complicated watch with an intricate calibre and an unusually modern, clear sapphire dial. The look is more contemporary than usual for a Les Cabinotiers grand complication, thanks to both the sapphire dial with its off-centre displays and a monochromatic grey finish on the movement. An evolution (and stylistic upgrade) of the solid-dial Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds from 2022, the Temporis is underpinned by a base movement that features a minute repeater and tourbillon; on top sits a traditionally constructed split-seconds chronograph mechanism that is paired with the calibre in an unconventional manner. The layers inside the cal. 2757 S of the Temporis Initial thoughts Twenty twenty-five has been good for Vacheron Constantin in terms of complicated watches – the brand started the year with the Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch ever made, and has followed up with the Temporis. In comparison to the Solaria with 41 functions and a price tag in the mid-millions, the Temporis is simple and affordable, but still impressive. Though it is largely identical in terms of the movement to the 2022 model with a solid dial, the Temporis offers a lot more visually with its open dial. Though the look is modern – compare this to the baroque B...

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship SPB499 With An Urushi Dial Fratello
Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Jun 14, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship SPB499 With An Urushi Dial

The Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship pairs attainable Japanese watchmaking with impressive traditional crafts. We recently saw the introduction of a version with an enamel dial and another with an unglazed porcelain dial. Today, we see yet another version, this time with a dial featuring urushi lacquer. This is the SPB499. The new Seiko Presage […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship SPB499 With An Urushi Dial to read the full article.

Seiko’s Affordable Presage Gets an “Unglazed Porcelain” Dial SJX Watches
Seiko s Affordable Presage Gets Jun 10, 2025

Seiko’s Affordable Presage Gets an “Unglazed Porcelain” Dial

Seiko has introduced a new addition to its line of affordable dress watches, the Presage Craftsmanship “Unglazed Arita Porcelain” ref. SPB497. This limited edition retains the accessible pricing the Presage is known for, but is more than just affordable. Unlike previous models with glossy porcelain dials, this has a matte texture that enhances the rhombus patterned surface, traditionally a symbol of prosperity and health in Japan. Initial Thoughts When Seiko launched the first enamel-dialed Presage in 2013, it was an incredible value. In the years since, Seiko has expanded the range with more ambitious designs, and other materials such as Arita porcelain and Urushi lacquer, though the dial decoration techniques employed are uniformly traditional and Japanese. While the Presage models are still accessibly priced, this new model is US$1,850. The price tag is no longer the most compelling aspect but the dials themselves are still interesting in themselves. Unglazed porcelain dials are already almost non-existent, and the diamond pattern makes it even more interesting. Supporting traditional craft arts is also admirable, and has seen great success in the Swiss watch industry, albeit at a much higher price point. The new model employs the familiar Presage case, which is on the large side for a simple, dress watch, and the 27 mm diameter movement could easily fit into a smaller case. However, since a larger case also means a larger dial, it can be forgiven. Unglazed Dial Ari...

Understanding the Vacheron Constantin Solaria with Christian Selmoni and Jean-Marie Bouquin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Solaria Jun 9, 2025

Understanding the Vacheron Constantin Solaria with Christian Selmoni and Jean-Marie Bouquin

SJX recently visited Vacheron Constantin  and sat down with Christian Selmoni, style and heritage director, and head of speciality watchmaking, Jean-Marie Bouquin, to discuss the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch yet made. Mr Bouquin led the development of Solaria, and assembled it, creating a wristwatch that’s a worthy follow-up to the most complicated portable timepiece ever, the Berkley Grand Complication that was launched just last year. That in turn broke the record set by Vacheron Constantin in 2015 with the ref. 57260 “Tivoli”. They discussed the intricacies and innovation in the Solaria, including its modular “plug and play” perpetual calendar, and the implications for future Les Cabinotiers projects, as well as the novel star-tracking chronograph, and the benefits of using silicon for the spokes of the balance wheel. They also touched on the absence of a grande et petite sonnerie.