Revolution
Jaquet Droz’s Loving Butterfly comes in two new dials with an Australian angle
Jaquet Droz’s Loving Butterfly in Opal and Chinchilla Red celebrate mineral mastery with an Australian twist.
Results for JLC Master Ultra Thin
3,357 articles · 81 videos found · page 110 of 115
Revolution
Deployant
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT
The Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT may appeal more to men who want something classic but with more wrist presence than a subtle silhouette. The case and dial are rather nice, but otherwise the watch lacks in the differentiation department.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Vantablack Black Hands
On April Fools’ Day last year, H. Moser & Cie. published a doctored image of a watch with an all-black dial missing hands, a riff on its watches with blacker-than-black dials. The hoax watch turned into something of a hit, which has led to the latest trio of limited editions, the Vantablack Black Hands – which will also be available online directly from the brand. All three watches – ranging from a stainless-steel base model to a limited-edition tourbillon – feature dials coated in Vantablack, a high-tech coating that absorbs almost all incident light – making it extremely and almost absolutely black – matched with black-coated hands. Because the coating on the hands is more of a dark grey, and also glossy, the hands do actually stand apart from the dial, appearing to be suspended in nothing because the dial is so black. The Endeavour Tourbillon with the reflection being on the crystal, rather than the dial Venturer Vantablack Black Hands XL in steel Invented by a spin-off from the University of Surrey in the United Kingdom, Vantablack is made up of carbon nanotubes arranged vertically, like a surface covered in really fine fur. The carbon nanotubes absorb 99.965% of incident light, resulting in a surface that resembles a deep, dark hole, which is an quirky and strangely appealing finish for a watch dial. Even though other substances are even blacker than Vantablack – with the record held by an MIT invention from 2019 – Vantablack is the best-known...
SJX Watches
Business News: Sotheby’s to Start Weekly Online Watch Auctions
Having postponed its traditional April and May watch auctions till June and July respectively – no doubt with fingers crossed and a quiet prayer – as a result of the COVID-19 coronavirus, Sotheby’s has just announced Watches Weekly, an ongoing series of online-only watch auctions starting April 1, 2020. The auctions will take place on a rolling basis, with each sale lasting a week, then followed by the next sale, and so on. Each auction be centred around a theme while being relatively compact – the first sale is made up of 19 watches by Rolex and Audemars Piguet. The subsequent auctions will be Patek Philippe Design and Horology from April 8-15, then something for bargain hunters, Swiss Wristwatches with no reserve on April 15-22. Sam Hines, Sotheby’s global head of watches, explained the move in the announcement: “[Clients] are also increasingly confident [of buying] important pieces online. This was demonstrated last week, when we set a new record for a watch sold online at Sotheby’s [162,500 Swiss francs for a Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” ref. 6262].” According to Mr Hines, the newly-announced online auctions will “complement the calendar of live sales and other online auctions already planned for the rest of the year”, implying that the rest of the auction calendar will proceed as planned. Watches Weekly makes Sotheby’s the first mainstream watch auctioneer – its peers are Christie’s, Phillips, and to a lesser degree, Antiquorum – to s...
SJX Watches
Up Close: MB&F; HM10 Bulldog
MB&F; has always been about pushing the boundaries of aesthetic and conceptual creativity in watchmaking, lassoing in everything from pop culture to science fiction to build its Horological Machines. Reminiscent of the HM3 Frog and HM9 Flow, the HM10 Bulldog is the tenth watch in the series and another intergalactic timekeeper reassembling a robotic animal. While MB&F; has historically been all about less-than-friendly animals, like a cyclops-chicken, luminous jellyfish, or giant spider, the HM10 is modelled on a domestic favourite (and perhaps also takes inspiration from the LM1). The design language of the HM10 is a familiar one as it borrows liberally from MB&F;’s past machines. Bulging eyes in the form of rotating displays take their cues from the HM3, while the suspended balance wheel under a high domed crystal is also found in the Legacy Machine series, and finally the mobile jaw that’s also a power reserve display brings to mind the vertical indicator on the LM1. An elaborate body It’s a complex-looking watch, so an explanation is in order. Available in either titanium, or red gold with titanium accents, the HM10 has a flat, elongated body with a protruding pair of collets for the crowns, as well as two domed sapphire crystals on the front and back to accommodate the time display and power reserve indicator respectively. At 54 mm by 45 mm, the HM10 does have a large presence – which is usually the point of a Horological Machine – but the overall shape, pa...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller Vanguard Classic that can take you from boardroom to beach
Fans of Franck Muller will know there is something in the Vanguard collection for everyone. With more than 30 different references in the current lineup, including chronographs, tourbillons and skeletonised movements, the independent watchmaker has ensured that no matter where you want to take your watch, there is a generously curved creation for you. Despite … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller Vanguard Classic that can take you from boardroom to beach appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Breguet introduces two calendar novelties, the Classique 7137 and 7337
Breguet unleashes a pair of beautifully decorated calendar models in the Classic line, combining its mastery of traditional watch crafts with an elegant design interface.
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Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results
Last week, Nick Kenyon and Luke Benedictus got into a horological war of words over the rights and wrongs of the humble NATO strap. Luke took a defensive why-the-hell-not approach while Nick stuck to the purist’s line that some things must remain sacrosanct otherwise the whole of civilisation will go to pot. We then threw … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HOW TO: Buy a Valentine’s Day watch in 90 secs
Buying a watch for anyone other than yourself is a difficult thing to do, for exactly the same reasons it is so enjoyable to wear a watch at all – it is a deeply personal decision. This challenge is amplified when you’re faced with the 14th of February, and are standing at the counter of … ContinuedThe post HOW TO: Buy a Valentine’s Day watch in 90 secs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Glenglassaugh Rare Cask Release Batch 3 Whisky, Cask #3510: A 50-Year-Old Treasure From 1965
Nothing happens quickly in the whisky industry, but Ken Gargett thinks that the future is looking bright for Glenglassaugh and it should take its place among the elite producers. And then there's that superlative malt from 1965 that Ken recommends "to be sipped on bended knee."
Time+Tide
Daft Punk is not playing at our house. It’s better. HSNY is at our office to party.
I don’t know about you, Australian watch lovers, but I’ve always looked lustfully, enviously and with more than just a faint sense of sadness at all the things the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) get up to over there. Somewhere. Beyond the sea. Not only in America, mind you. Wherever they go with their … ContinuedThe post Daft Punk is not playing at our house. It’s better. HSNY is at our office to party. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Pierre Peters Les Chétillons: One Of The World’s Great Champagnes You’ve Probably Never Heard Of
If Ken Gargett were to tell you that he is looking at one of the great champagnes, that wouldn’t really narrow it down for you. If he said it was a blanc de blancs then you’d be able to get closer. And if he said it had become a cult favorite in recent years, you might think he is talking about Selosse, Agrapart, Collin, or one of the other emerging growers. The champagne he puts under the microscope today is actually from small(ish) grower Pierre Peters and it is the flagship, Les Chétillons. Find out what he thinks about it here!
SJX Watches
Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel
With the Freak being the undisputed flagship complication of Ulysse Nardin – as well as a historically important watch – many of the brand’s other technical accomplishments often go under the radar. One intriguing offering that hasn’t gotten much attention: the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Despite the somewhat dull name, the Tourbillon Free Wheel is a compelling reinterpretation of a mystery clock – where the mechanics are artfully hidden and exposed for visual effect – that is both fascinating and exotic. The Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel with an aventurine dial While the base model of the Executive collection features a largely conventional, open-worked movement, the Tourbillon Free Wheel takes things a step further by elevating the crucial parts of the movement like the barrel, tourbillon regulator, and gear train for the power reserve. In fact, most of the components are “floating” – the movement boasts a flying tourbillon, a “flying” gear train and power reserve indicator, as well as a “floating” barrel. At the same time, the construction is inverted, with parts that are usually hidden sitting exposed, and vice versa. As a result, the tourbillon and power reserve display appear to operate in isolation, with no obvious connection to the rest of the movement. Floating and flying minimalism While much of the gearing is hidden underneath the dial – which doubles up as the base plate – most of the moving parts are “floating” –...
Quill & Pad
Romeo Y Julieta Maravillas 8 Cuban Cigars: Large Size, Medium Flavor, Small Value
If a friend dropped by for a chat and a drink and pulled out a couple of these whopper Romeo & Julieta Maravillas 8 Cuban cigars, Ken Gargett thinks you would have an enjoyable afternoon, but probably not think a lot about the cigars. He thought the one he smoked was fine, pleasant and consistent, but no fireworks. And then there's the elephant in the room: the price.
Time+Tide
Forget the Rolex Daytona on Antiques Roadshow, here are three watches to stash in your safe now
If you’re reading this, then chances are you’ve already seen the amazing video on America’s Antiques Roadshow of a US Air Force veteran and his mint Rolex Daytona Ref.6263. If not, stop reading this and watch the below video right now: I think we can all agree … this is a pretty staggering video. And it … ContinuedThe post Forget the Rolex Daytona on Antiques Roadshow, here are three watches to stash in your safe now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Hublot Spirit Of Big Bang Rainbow: The Trick Is In Making It Look Casually Playful
At the 2020 LVMH Watch Week in Dubai, Hublot introduced a second chapter to its Rainbow concept by giving the shaped Spirit of Big Bang model the multicolored treatment. Martin Green thinks it is even better than the previous Big Bang edition as it's all down to the angles.
Quill & Pad
Bulgari Octo L’Originale: With Enough Ice To Alleviate Climate Change And A Million-Dollar Price Tag To Match
Martin Green thinks that nearly any serious brand can put a truckload of diamonds on a watch and attach a phenomenal price tag to it. But he also believes that very few could create a watch like the Bulgari Octo L'Originale with its more than 50 carats of nearly flawless colorless diamonds. Find out why here.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 “Ed White”
Having dropped enough hints – first the movement and then the platinum Speedmaster – that the launch is no longer a surprise, Omega has finally unveiled the watch many have been waiting for: the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 in steel, a remake of the Speedmaster “Ed White”. Notably, the latest remake means that Omega now has a remake hall of fame, having reproduced almost all of the historically significant vintage Speedmaster models, namely the ref. 2915, ref. 2998, ref. 105.012 (sort of), the ref. 145.022 in 18k gold, and now, the ref. 105.003 “Ed White”. Worn by astronaut Ed White in 1965 when he became the first American to accomplish a space walk, during the Gemini 4 mission, the Speedmaster ST 105.003 has since been nicknamed after White, who unfortunately died not long after when a fire consumed the cabin of the Apollo 1 spacecraft in 1967. Reproduced faithfully Distinguished by its straight lugs, the “Ed White” has been replicated in fine form with the new Moonwatch 321. Omega gets an A for execution with the remake, though its score for creativity won’t be quite as high. The new Speedmaster is a dead ringer for the original, but executed in modern materials – plus faux-vintage Super-Luminova, naturally. Details exactly as on the original include the applied Omega logo and stepped dial The bezel insert, for instance, is a “dot over 90” like the original, but is rendered in robust ceramic with white enamel tachymetric markings, instead of the fra...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive 20th Anniversary
At Baselworld last year, Seiko unveiled its take on the ultimate time-only watch, the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Spring Drive 20th Anniversary SBGZ001. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 is powered by essentially the same movement as found in the Credor Eichi II, but dressed up with an engraved platinum case and dial, while also priced at quite a bit more than the Eichi II, with a retail of US$76,000. Also launched at the same time was the Grand Seiko SBGZ003, which is almost the same watch – having the same movement but minus the engraving on the case and dial, resulting in a US$57,000 price tag. With their cushion-shaped cases and dauphine hands – the hallmarks of the newish Elegance Collection – both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are slightly more retro in style than the stark and contemporary Eichi II. But more importantly, they are powered by the 9R02, which is an upgraded version of the movement in the Eichi II and the most gorgeous movement ever found in a modern Grand Seiko. In short, both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are watches with incredibly well finished movements – amongst the best in modern watchmaking anywhere – but with a couple of caveats, discussed below. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 – watch courtesy of Mark Cho, founder of menswear store The Armoury The 9R02 Spring Drive movement Masterpieces from the studio All of Seiko’s top of the line watches – both Grand Seiko and Credor – come from the Micro Artist Studio, a workshop set up in 2000 to produce the fi...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The stunning Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain Dial SPB093
Mastering the creation of a material that was first conceived more than 400 years ago while simultaneously bringing it into the 21st century is no mean feat. But that’s exactly what Seiko has done with its silky smooth Presage Arita Porcelain Dial SPB093. Widely regarded as some of the nicest and most ornate on the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The stunning Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain Dial SPB093 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Moon Rise: Le Rhöne Moonphase Collection
A petite moon phase to help us picture the brightest orb in the night sky? Le Rhöne wants you to forget that the moon deserves nothing less than large.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The beautifully brown Seiko Presage SRPD36J1 and SSA392J1
There are myriad impressive things about Seiko’s Presage collection. But if we had to single out one overriding thing that the Japanese watchmaker’s dress watches do better than almost anyone else, rather predictably, it would be their dials. Pound for pound, the Presage dress watches and their rapturous range of dials represent amazing value for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The beautifully brown Seiko Presage SRPD36J1 and SSA392J1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Interview: François-Henry Bennahmias, CEO of Audemars Piguet
François-Henry Bennahmias is one of the most successful chief executives in Swiss watchmaking: since taking the top job at Audemars Piguet in 2012, revenues at the watchmaker have more than doubled, to well over a billion Swiss francs. He took some flak earlier this year with the high profile launch of an entirely new line, the Code 11.59, which was widely panned at the time. But Mr Bennahmias appears to have been partially vindicated after the unique Code 11.59 skeleton tourbillon (which I was surprisingly drawn to) sold for a million francs – more than four times its presale high estimate. But Mr Bennahmias does not seem to be the sort to look back reflectively, he is forging ahead full speed with rolling out new iterations of the Code 11.59, while also working on “huge” and “very cool” collaboration that will be announced in mid 2020. During a recent visit to Singapore a month ago, Mr Bennahmias discussed the Code 11.59, while dropping a few hints about an upcoming vintage remake, as well as the upcoming partnership. The interview was edited for clarity and length. I really like what you have done recently with the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Skeleton in black ceramic. At the same time, I hear that there are some updates and extensions planned for the Code 11.59 in 2020. Can you talk anything about that? No. [With a smile] Can you say anything about the Code 11.59 for Only Watch, which is a two-tone skeleton of sorts? I saw the watch in Geneva; two-tone doe...
SJX Watches
Hermès Introduces a Duo in Delicate Wood Marquetry
In its usual tasteful yet quirky style, Hermès has unveiled a pair of wristwatches featuring dials decorated in wood marquetry, tiny pieces of exotic woods assembled like a puzzle to form striking, abstract motifs; last year Hermes did the same in leather. Created by a young French marquetry artist, the dials start with a line drawing on tracing paper, which is then digitised and scaled down to the size of the dial. The reduced drawing is then printed out and cut into its component parts with a scalpel, forming the pattern for cutting. Each piece is then glued to a thin slice of exotic wood that is then cut with a small electric fret saw. The resulting bits of wood are then assembled with a tweezer, and occasional gentle hammering, before the dials are sanded and varnished, making them seem like an unbroken whole. Monochromatic yet intriguing enough to make you look twice, the Arceau Astrologie Nouvelle reproduces the pattern from the silk scarf of the same name. The original Astrologie scarf featured a classical star chart, but in 2012 designer Cyrille Diatkine reinterpreted the motif – nouvelle is French for “new” – breaking it up into alternating and inverted segments. The Astrologie Nouvelle motif has been recreated using tulipwood, a wood that can vary in colour from white to dark blue according to Hermès, resulting in the contrasting colours of the dial. Its case is 41mm and 18k white gold, containing the H1837 automatic made by Vaucher, a movement maker...
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale
Getting engaged is an incredibly special moment in anyone’s life, as it spells the beginning of something that will endure to stand the test of time. What better way to celebrate than with a new watch, to match your fiancée’s new ring. This is the story of David and his Pequignet Rue Royale. When did … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Centre Seconds Funky Blue
A year ago, H. Moser & Cie. debuted the Heritage Pilot’s Watch, a retro, aviation-inspired watch with grey fumé dial for Swiss retailer Bucherer that was then a one-off unlike anything else in the brand’s line-up. Now the watch has officially joined the collection as the Heritage Centre Seconds Funky Blue, positioned as an entry-level model priced under US$14,000. The watch has a familiar design, for good reason: it’s modelled on early pilot’s watches from the 1920s that were produced by a host of brands including Longines and Zenith, and also Heinrich Moser, the predecessor of H. Moser & Cie. At the same time, according to Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, the Heritage watch takes some inspiration from early 20th century wristwatches that were converted pocket watches with wire lugs soldered on for wear on the wrist. While the Heritage measures 42mm in diameter like a majority of Moser’s watches, it is just 11.1mm high, making it one of the brand’s slimmest models. Its stainless-steel case features an onion-shaped crown and thin lugs to mimic wire lugs. The case is largely polished, punctuated with fine, vertical fluting on its flanks, a detail taken from another watch in the Moser line-up, the Pioneer. The dial is a dark, metallic blue finished with sunburst brushing and the brand’s signature fumé treatment that gradually darkens towards the edges. But the most distinctive feature are the large Arabic numerals – modelled on the painted radium ...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Commissioning the Voutilainen GMT-Villes Custom Time Zone Watch
Voutilainen watches are well loved for their dials, which are made in-house and offered with a myriad of finishes – primarily guilloché or enamel – as well as numerous colours and appliques. But unconstrained freedom leads to hesitation, and too many choices make a decision difficult. American psychologist Barry Schwartz, writing in The Paradox of Choice, notes that consumers are often happier having to choose from fewer options, rather than more. The author’s custom GMT-Villes But in my own collecting, perhaps the opposite is true. When I work with an independent watchmaker on a custom or bespoke watch, exploring the abundance of possibilities is the main attraction, particularly when I can specify the details face to face with the watchmaker himself. Investing sufficient time to figure out my goal makes the process of choosing not a task to be feared, but an enjoyable journey leading to the unique piece. This is my story of commissioning the GMT-Villes from Kari Voutilainen (which happened slightly before I embarked on a similar project with Andreas Strehler). Kari Voutilainen in his showroom. Image – FHH The beginning of custom work After setting up his own workshop in 2002, Kari, then 40 years old, made his debut as an independent watchmaker with the Masterpiece series of wristwatches, starting with Masterpiece 6 unveiled at Baselworld in 2005. The Masterpiece watches were all one-off minute repeaters relying on rebuilt and finely decorated vintage ebauches ma...
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – Andreas’ Omega Seamaster Professional 300M
Has any one watch had more of an immediate effect on its audience than the Omega Seamasters featured in James Bond films? Seriously … almost every single time we talk to anyone about their SMP, invariably 007 is hurled into the equation. It’s got to be one of the smartest pieces of marketing since, well, … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Andreas’ Omega Seamaster Professional 300M appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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What Sealed The Deal – Chris’ IWC 3706 Fliegerchronograph
The only thing thrown around more often than the word iconic by watch media is watch media cleverly saying how often the word iconic is being thrown around. But despite committing both sins in one paragraph, Sunday confession would be a comfortable one if you were talking about IWC pilot’s watches as iconic. With designs … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Chris’ IWC 3706 Fliegerchronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Taking another look at the Rolex Sky-Dweller Rolesor
Editor’s note: The Rolex Sky-Dweller is an amazing timepiece. No doubt about it. It’s also the epitome of what Rolex does so well - take something exceedingly complicated, like an annual calendar, and then create a simple, novel and ingenious way of not only displaying said complication but how you interact with the watch. Seriously, who … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Rolex Sky-Dweller Rolesor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.