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Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava” Fratello
IWC Calatrava” Cal 89 Nov 3, 2025

Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava”

There’s something about a classic dress watch that resonates beyond fleeting trends. For me, it all started with the vintage IWC “Calatrava” Cal. 89 that I inherited from my grandfather. It is a watch from a bygone era when watchmaking was all about understated elegance, mechanical mastery, and timeless design. Recently, my Fratello colleagues discussed […] Visit Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava” to read the full article.

Citizen’s Cutting-Edge Quartz Shines in Recrystallised Titanium SJX Watches
Citizen s Cutting-Edge Quartz Shines Oct 29, 2025

Citizen’s Cutting-Edge Quartz Shines in Recrystallised Titanium

The new Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine collection leans into the brand’s two greatest strengths: cutting-edge quartz technology and mastery of titanium. With three limited edition references in a new platinum-coloured hue, Citizen demonstrates why it’s still the leader in titanium watches, 55 years after making the first one. Thanks to a decadent recrystallised titanium bracelet and nearly scratch-proof Duratect coating, the new Attesa proves that quartz can still feel luxurious. Ref. CB0284-66A. Initial thoughts Almost as soon as quartz timekeeping technology began to mature and prices began to fall in the 1980s, makers of quartz watches began to cede the luxury end of market to brands that focused on mechanical watches. But that never stopped a few brands, Citizen and Seiko chief among them, from pursuing the development of ever-better quartz technology and bringing it to market in a premium format. The ultimate expression of this focus is probably the Citizen cal. 0100, the most accurate wristwatch in the world. The Citizen 0100 – the world’s most accurate wristwatch. But quartz is just one part of the equation for Citizen, which has also achieved a leading market position in two specific fields. The first is solar power. Light-powered watches is nothing new, dating back to 1972, but it was Citizen’s advances in the late 1970s that propelled this technology forward. In 1995, the brand debuted Eco-Drive, which remains the leading light in solar-powered timekeep...

Museums, Foundations, Archives – The Rise of Swiss Horological Institutions SJX Watches
Oct 9, 2025

Museums, Foundations, Archives – The Rise of Swiss Horological Institutions

When I look at the current landscape of watch culture, I see a tension that defines our time. On one side lies the fascination with the way a watch appears on the wrist, and the endless variations of colour and form that drive demand. On the other lies a culture that is older, slower, and infinitely more complex; the science of horology, the mastery of craft, and the knowledge transmitted across centuries. In recent years, I have felt this latter culture slipping into the background, lost beneath the pageantry of style. Yet at the same time, I have witnessed a counter-movement taking shape in Switzerland, a series of initiatives that seek to protect, project, and transmit the deeper culture of watchmaking. I see in them a form of resistance, a refusal to let horology dissolve into an empty shell of design. This is the rise of Swiss horological institutions. The Clockmakers’ Museum in London. Originally displayed at the Guildhall, the collection is now on display at the Science Museum. The early resistance It is worth remembering that Switzerland, for all its dominance in production, did not take the first steps in creating enduring institutions around horology; Britain anticipated this need by centuries. In 1631, Charles I granted a royal charter to the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, giving formal civic recognition to the craft. What began as a guild evolved into a guardian of standards, a keeper of apprenticeships, and eventually the custodian of one of the world’...

First Look – The New and (Very) Opulent Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Versailles Monochrome
Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Oct 2, 2025

First Look – The New and (Very) Opulent Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Versailles

Montblanc’s mastery of métiers d’art and mechanical innovation comes together once more in its most opulent creation yet, the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Château de Versailles. Since introducing the Exo Tourbillon in 2010, a patented construction that positions the balance wheel outside and above the tourbillon cage, Montblanc has revisited this remarkable regulator in […]

Introducing – Vacheron Constantin Unveils “The Quest of Time” Astronomical Clock and Watch for 270th Anniversary Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Unveils “The Quest Sep 16, 2025

Introducing – Vacheron Constantin Unveils “The Quest of Time” Astronomical Clock and Watch for 270th Anniversary

Few watchmaking houses can look back on a history spanning 270 years. Marking such an extraordinary milestone requires more than a timepiece; it calls for a creation that embodies heritage, creativity, and mastery. In the frame of its 270th anniversary celebrations, Vacheron Constantin presents an exceptional object – not a watch per se, but a […]

What is 5 ATM Water Resistance? Watches’ Depth Ratings Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 27, 2025

What is 5 ATM Water Resistance? Watches’ Depth Ratings Explained

Watches differ widely not only in their designs, materials, and functions but also in their ability to resist the detrimental effects of water and moisture. Some watch enthusiasts, especially those who wear their timepieces for diving, know exactly what they're looking for in terms of waterproofing, but many others might be unsure exactly how safe it is to wear their watch in the swimming pool or even to wash the car. What do watches' water-resistance ratings like 5 ATM or 10 ATM mean in the real world, and how exactly do industry terms like "bars" and "atmospheres" help you determine how waterproof your watch is? Here we address some commonly asked questions about water resistance in watches and break down what the most common depth ratings mean in practical terms.  What was the first water-resistant watch? Since the invention of the wristwatch, watchmakers have been coming up with solutions to address an inconvenient reality: namely, that water and tiny mechanical parts, such as those inside a watch movement, simply do not mix. The technical challenge of making a portable timepiece that could withstand exposure to water became even more prominent in the mid-20th Century, with the rise of diving as a tactical and eventually also a recreational pursuit. The first innovator to seriously take up the gauntlet was Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, who developed the now-famous Oyster case in 1926. Its groundbreaking design combined a threaded, hermetically sealed caseback and a cro...

While My Watch Gently Resonates: How Armin Strom Perfected Resonance Technology Fratello
Armin Strom Perfected Resonance Technology As Jul 8, 2025

While My Watch Gently Resonates: How Armin Strom Perfected Resonance Technology

As watch fans, we’re relatively accustomed to hearing about technical innovations. Normally, these result in benefits in timekeeping accuracy, power reserve, or shock resistance. However, many of these watches use traditional mechanical movements. Armin Strom’s claim to fame is its mastery of the Resonance movement. Today, we’ll provide an overview of the technology behind these […] Visit While My Watch Gently Resonates: How Armin Strom Perfected Resonance Technology to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ice Blue Monochrome
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ice Jul 4, 2025

Introducing – The New Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Ice Blue

Since the debut of the Mirrored Force Resonance First Edition in 2022, which was an update of the revolutionary 2016 Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance, the brand has excited us with the Manufacture Editions in green and blue, and now introduces the Mirrored Force Resonance Ice Blue. This fresh interpretation combines the technical mastery of […]

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Jun 13, 2025

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

In watchmaking, few complications command such reverence as the perpetual calendar, and few brands have woven it into their identity as thoroughly as Audemars Piguet. While the brand’s mastery of this calendar complication dates back to the early 20th century, its true renaissance came through a most unexpected path: the Royal Oak sports watch. Let […]

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Zenith Chronomaster Revival ‘Shadow’ 2020 Dec 26, 2024

Best of WatchAdvice: Hands On Reviews

As the holiday season comes to a head, we’ve taken the time to curate some of our favourite articles from the past. So, curl up close to the fire (or for the Aussies, the air con!) and relax as we give you a rundown of our best Watch Review Articles to date! Here at WatchAdvice, we have a unique opportunity to go out and about with some of the watch industry’s finest offerings. While we have the privilege of wearing timepieces the world over, that doesn’t stop us from giving our honest opinions on them. We always make sure that – while we opt to review watches we actually like – we stay aware of how elusive perfection truly is in the watch world. While this has allowed us to maintain a fairly even opinion of our watches over the years, there were definitely some we got our grubby mitts on that we were sad to see go. Similar to the Best of WatchAdvice: Education article I just wrote, we decided to compile a list of our favourite watches that we have ever reviewed, all for your reading pleasure. So as we creep closer to the new year, relax and enjoy some of our best Review articles to date! Zenith Chronomaster Revival ‘Shadow’: 2020 & 2024 Back in 2020, founder of WatchAdvice Chamath Gamage was able to get his hands on a then-recent drop from Zenith: The Chronomaster Revival ‘Shadow.’ A modern reimagining of a 70s-era Zenith watch that was never produced, this watch was exemplary for several reasons. Its period-appropriate design was faithfully recreated by...

Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119G Vs. 5212A - Two Entryways Into The World Of Contemporary Patek Philippe Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119G Vs 5212A Jul 9, 2024

Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119G Vs. 5212A - Two Entryways Into The World Of Contemporary Patek Philippe

There is so much to say about Patek Philippe, arguably the most significant and venerable watchmaker in high-end Swiss watchmaking. The brand certainly displays a mastery of complications. Perhaps even more relevant to today’s watch industry, Patek Philippe also expertly balances tradition with modernity. While the brand is famous for creating traditional, subdued, understated luxury, […] Visit Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119G Vs. 5212A - Two Entryways Into The World Of Contemporary Patek Philippe to read the full article.

Christopher Ward Mixes Blue and Bronze in their Latest C60 Pro 300 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Mixes Blue Jun 13, 2024

Christopher Ward Mixes Blue and Bronze in their Latest C60 Pro 300

Christopher Ward is introducing a new variant in their popular Trident Bronze collection - this time with a deep blue ombré dial. The C60 Pro 300 Bronze Blue Ombré builds on the long evolution of the Trident collection, and serves as an excellent reminder both of Christopher Ward’s mastery over bronze, and comes just in time for the height of summer.  The new C60 Pro 300 Bronze Blue Ombré reinvents last year’s C60 Pro 300 Bronze, replacing that model’s brown ombré dial and bezel with a mesmerizing deep blue, while otherwise retaining all the signature details that have helped set Christopher Ward apart from the pack. We’ve been talking a lot about what makes for a good summer watch recently, and there is no denying that this latest release from Christopher Ward throws a mighty wrench in that conversation, offering a tempting and handsome new entry into this year’s summer watch race. Christopher Ward has long been known for their dive watches, and - over the years - bronze has increasingly become a core material for the British brand. The C60 Pro 300 combines the two in a 42mm light-catcher case, here produced in CuSn6 bronze, a super-strong, copper-heavy bronze alloy that is well known for its deep color and ability to take a patina. If you love a deep patina with plenty of greens and an intense color, CuSn6 is the way to go. Bronze has long been a core material over at Christopher Ward, and this watch is an excellent reminder as to why. The Blue Ombr...

Obituary: Antoine Simonin, WOSTEP Director, Educator, and Bookseller SJX Watches
May 28, 2024

Obituary: Antoine Simonin, WOSTEP Director, Educator, and Bookseller

Antoine Simonin (1938-2024), who died on May 20 at the age of 84, left his mark on generations of watchmakers and watchmaking enthusiasts. He will be best remembered as the director of WOSTEP (Watches Of Switzerland Training Educational Program) from 1976 to 2003. Simonin was a person obsessed with the transmission of watchmaking knowledge, and sought to make WOSTEP an instrument for the international dissemination of watchmaking mastery. Founded in 1966, WOSTEP sought to train watchmakers capable of maintaining and repairing Swiss-made watches according to the standards laid out by their makers, the Swiss watch industry. Over time, its courses have been taught in English, French, German, Japanese, Swedish, and Mandarin. “I studied at WOSTEP under Antoine Simonin in 1987 and 1991,” says Peter Speake, the watchmaker best known for founding Speake-Marin, “He was instrumental in keeping WOSTEP going during that difficult industry period, subsequently influencing the careers and friendships of many watchmakers, directly and indirectly, playing a significant role in the lives of many crossing multiple generations.” Recounts another student, Paul Francis Madden, now himself an instructor at WOSTEP, “I was a student in 1987, back when the staff at WOSTEP was only Mr Simonin and his wife Josiane… It came to showing him my first hairspring… He slowly spun my balance wheel in his callipers, scrutinising it for what seemed like an eternity, and all without saying a sing...

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink Fratello
Gerald Charles Apr 9, 2024

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink

The new Gerald Charles Masterlink arrives just in time for Watches and Wonders 2024. It’s a modern take on Gerald Genta’s famous Maestro case paired with an integrated bracelet. There’s no mistaking this watch for anything but a Genta-inspired design, yet it’s a thoughtful and new evolution. Last November, I had the opportunity to attend […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink to read the full article.

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 on Show in Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 Mar 29, 2024

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 on Show in Geneva

Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe is exhibiting the year’s Rare Handcrafts its Geneva Salon from April 13 to 27, alongside the final few days of Watches & Wonders. Aside from the 82 watches and clocks – the largest Rare Handcrafts collection ever presented – the engravers and enamellers will be on hand to demonstrate their craft. The timepieces in the exhibition, comprising seven Dome Clocks, three table clocks, nine pocket watches, and 43 wristwatches, showcase the brand’s mastery of traditional techniques, ranging from the familiar like cloisonné and champlevé, to those less often encountered in watchmaking, such as wood marquetry and Longwy enamel on faience. As has long been the case for the Rare Handcrafts collection, all of the timepieces on show are available in theory, but typically allocated to the best clients. The Rare Handcrafts collection will be exhibited in three sections, each grouped according to the particular timepiece form. Upon entering the Salon, guests will encounter a dozen Calatrava wristwatches with enamel dials bearing the constellations of the zodiac, executed in a range of techniques, namely grisaille, cloisonné, and paillonné. The Napoleon room The exhibition continues into the Napoleon room facing Lake Geneva. Here are the watches inspired by nature, including the pocket watch ref. 995/143G-001 “Portrait of a White Egret” with a wood marquetry dial. The ref. 995/143G-001 with its matching stand The last section ...

First Look – The New Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Jan 29, 2024

First Look – The New Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar

Zenith once again demonstrates its mastery of blending a contemporary collection with historically inspired timepieces, and the latest addition, the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, is poised to receive well-deserved acclaim. In an impressive feat, the Le Locle-based manufacture introduces six new references, showcasing the beloved calendar complication alongside the high-frequency chronograph – a combination not […]

Takashi Murakami Fuses Art and Horology with the Hublot MP-15 SJX Watches
Hublot MP-15 Hublot unveiled Nov 22, 2023

Takashi Murakami Fuses Art and Horology with the Hublot MP-15

Hublot unveiled its fourth collaboration with the Japanese artist Takashi Murakami – the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire. Demonstrating Hublot’s mastery sapphire crystal cases, the watch is the brand’s first central tourbillon in regular production. The MP-15 is a fusion of artistic expression and watchmaking, that pushes the boundaries of mechanics and design, with the nudging of Mr Murakami, who previously designed a pair of simpler watches for Hublot. Initial thoughts The MP-15 is an entirely new watch, from case to movement, that was constructed to embody  Mr Murakami’s signature style. It takes a fresh and playful direction away from the relatively tamer previous editions that were based on an existing model. First seen with the unique example produced for Only Watch, the latest collaboration between Hublot and Takashi Murakami seamlessly combines Mr Murakami’s artistic vision with Hublot’s watchmaking proficiency, resulting in a unique and expressive watch.  Notably, the MP-15 is not as big as expected. It’s 42 mm in diameter but has no lugs, while the strap is narrow, making it suitable for both men and women. The Only Watch edition The MP-15 is more than a watch; it’s arguably wearable art. The retail price of US$316,000 certainly puts it closer to Mr Murakami’s creations than a wristwatch, even with the tourbillon. It is a very expensive wristwatch, but not so expensive relative to Mr Murakami’s art. Though this is a relatively lar...

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Yema Oct 6, 2023

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary

Celebrating 75 years in business, French watchmakers Yema have recently released their Yachtingraf Tourbillon Maréographe, a tribute to classic design and Franco-Swiss watchmaking mastery. Ringing in a milestone is never an easy feat; but, somehow, Yema has been able to accomplish not only a timeless design, but something that showcases the pursuit of excellence that has defined the brand over the course of its history.  Don’t let the plain black and steel (or bronze) design fool you – this watch is anything but simple. Yema has incorporated a balance between yachting heritage design and function to show what this watch is capable of – while also doing it with a certain je nais sais quoi, courtesy of a somewhat unexpected tourbillon caliber. The tourbillon is visible at the 6 o’clock mark, giving one an interior look into the precision mechanisms of this masterpiece. Opposite that, at the 12 hour, the Maréographe has a unique lunar time complication with a display of tide cycles, complete with a decorative bearing the traditional Yema “Y” logo. While maybe not part of your day-to-day needs, it’s nonetheless a showing of Yema’s technical capabilities and a bit of a unique offering for an important anniversary. This watch measures in at 42.5 mm, giving it a sense of presence on the wrist that matches the various finishes of the design. The rotating bezel is beautifully crafted with additional scratch protection, while the double-domed sapphire crystal will...

It’s a Close Encounter of the Horological Kind with the New UFO Clocks from Ulysse Nardin Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Eagle-eyed watch Jul 25, 2023

It’s a Close Encounter of the Horological Kind with the New UFO Clocks from Ulysse Nardin

Eagle-eyed watch and horology enthusiasts are experiencing a close encounter of the third kind as Ulysse Nardin has dropped three new versions of its avant-garde UFO (Unidentified Floating Object) marine chronometer table clock. Based on the original UFO from 2021, the trio of new colors celebrates Ulysse Nardin’s special relationship with three famed retailers: Swiss-based Bucherer (Ice Blue), Japanese retailer Yoshida (Green), and The Hour Glass (Champagne) in Southeast Asia. The clocks are limited to 30 in each color and are available exclusively through these retailers. Ulysse Nardin commemorated its 175th anniversary back in the spring of 2021 by introducing the first series of UFOs in a batch of 75 examples in dark blue. All sold out quickly. In the fall of that year, at Only Watch, a unique one-off in orange hammered for an eye-watering CHF 380,000. Clearly, there was interest in this unapologetically futuristic take on the marine chronometer – once a crucial tool in navigation at sea and the pinnacle of precision timekeeping. Ulysse Nardin claims this is the fruit of two years of research and development in partnership with L’Épée, whom you may recognize as past collaborators with MB&F;. A closer look at the UFO reveals a product that builds on UN’s history as masters of the marine chronometer while pushing the boundaries of design and engineering. Aesthetically, the UFO is like a JLC Atmos clock that decided to let loose: the half-sphere base houses a tun...