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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Fratello On Air: The Trends At Geneva Watch Days 2026 Fratello
Sep 9, 2026

Fratello On Air: The Trends At Geneva Watch Days 2026

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we’re all back home. Balazs has returned from Geneva, and Mike has come in after three weeks of being on the road. In this episode, we review the overarching trends at Geneva Watch Days 2026 along with the top releases. Enjoy the show! This podcast […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Trends At Geneva Watch Days 2026 to read the full article.

The King Seiko Vanac HKF005 Brings The Toyko Skyline To Your Wrist Fratello
Seiko Vanac HKF005 Brings Sep 9, 2026

The King Seiko Vanac HKF005 Brings The Toyko Skyline To Your Wrist

Seiko has slowly but consistently expanded its King Seiko collection. For its newest release, the brand introduces a Vanac with a black dial. It sounds pretty simple — almost too simple. But there is a little more to the story. The black dial of the King Seiko Vanac HKF005 mimics the Tokyo skyline at night. […] Visit The King Seiko Vanac HKF005 Brings The Toyko Skyline To Your Wrist to read the full article.

First Look - The new HKF005, a King Seiko Vanac with a Dial Inspired by Tokyo by Night Monochrome
Grand Seiko derived high-end automatic movement Sep 9, 2026

First Look - The new HKF005, a King Seiko Vanac with a Dial Inspired by Tokyo by Night

Released last year, the King Seiko Vanac came as a surprise from the Japanese manufacturer. Contrary to most previous King Seiko watches, inspired by the early days of the sub-brand, the Vanac was based on an edgy King Seiko reference from the 1970s and powered by a Grand Seiko-derived, high-end automatic movement. This sharp and […]

First Look - The New and More Compact Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe, in Blue Monochrome
Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe Sep 8, 2026

First Look - The New and More Compact Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe, in Blue

Greubel Forsey introduced its impressive three-dimensional GMT complication in 2011. Equipped with a rotating globe and an inclined 24-second tourbillon regulator, the complications were housed in imposing cases with a protrusion to accommodate the globe and a windowpane on the flank to admire its rotations. Ten years later, the brand introduced another GMT model in […]

The People Have Spoken: Seiko’s Crowd Favourite 62MAS SJX Watches
Seiko s Crowd Favourite 62MAS Sep 8, 2026

The People Have Spoken: Seiko’s Crowd Favourite 62MAS

Last year Seiko let fans vote on which of four vibrant dial colours would adorn an upcoming diver, and the people made the right choice, picking this vibrant Daytime Blue for the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver Fan-Selected HBC011. While a bit late to hit the beach, the latest 62MAS homage maintains all that was already good about Seiko divers, namely looks and tenacity, with key upgrades to the bracelet, for a reasonable price. Initial Thoughts Last year marked 6o years of Seiko diver’s watches, which can be traced back to the original 62MAS (refs. 6217-8000 and -8001) launched in 1965. Seiko let the many fans of its diver’s watches decide how to celebrate, giving collectors a choice of four colourways: Sunrise Orange; Daytime Blue; Late Afternoon Green; and Sunset Red. The online poll was open for the entire month of July, which was long enough for me “to get around to later” but short enough that it had already closed by the time I remembered to vote. Unsurprisingly, the trendiest colour, and the one I would have voted for, Daytime Blue, won. From left to right: Sunrise Orange; Daytime Blue; Late Afternoon Green; and Sunset Red. Seiko has disclosed no plans to bring the other three colourways to market at this time. The vibrant blue and stamped dial make the HBC011 stand out from the pack of 62MAS-inspired models, though it changes the character of the watch so entirely that this bubbly beach watch doesn’t feel like a 62MAS at all. Which is a good thing, as the mo...

Talking Watches: With Pusha T -  On Rolex, Rap, And The Luxury Of Time Hodinkee
Cartier bust-downs are not simply Sep 8, 2026

Talking Watches: With Pusha T -  On Rolex, Rap, And The Luxury Of Time

In a Pusha T verse, every detail is chosen with purpose. Watches have long been a constant in his lyrics–they are part status symbol, part cultural shorthand, and always a reflection of how closely he pays attention. This kind of specificity is central to his writing, and it is also the clearest way into a watch collection that is not only bold in appearance, but governed by a set of standards. He describes himself as a student of culture, and over the years, that knowledge shaped a specific set of rules. Pusha buys through authorized channels, favors factory-set stones, and rejects aftermarket work. His lyrics about ruined Pateks and Cartier bust-downs are not simply jokes; he sees them as a kind of tutorial on what to do and what to avoid. Many of his watches are unapologetically gem-set, but the distinction is not between understated and extravagant. It is between an original idea and an imitation of one. Pusha's collection of Rolexes he brought that day. Then there is the waiting. Pusha named Daytona for what the watch represented to him: the luxury of taking the time required to get something right. The same principle now defines how he collects. Some watches arrived when they could still be bought from a display case. Others took years of patience. The watches on the table connect those two eras, revealing a collector whose access may have changed, but whose standards have not. This is Talking Watches with Pusha T. Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16618LN With Black Dial...

First Look - Christiaan van der Klaauw Goes Openworked with the new Planetarium Skeleton Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw Goes Openworked Sep 8, 2026

First Look - Christiaan van der Klaauw Goes Openworked with the new Planetarium Skeleton

Christiaan van der Klaauw has been making mechanical astronomical watches since the 1990s, and the Planetarium is the defining complication of the Dutch manufacture. The first Planetarium wristwatch appeared in 1999 and featured what remains the world’s smallest mechanical planetarium. The complication has since been interpreted in numerous ways, most recently including the Grand Planetarium […]

First Look - The Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Comes Back as a Permanent Collection (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Comes Sep 8, 2026

First Look - The Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Comes Back as a Permanent Collection (Incl. Video)

First released in 2009 as part of the emblematic Tambour collection, the Spin Time is, without a doubt, one of the most recognisable creations of Louis Vuitton horlogerie. The idea, a dynamic display using 12 rotating cubes as a modern interpretation of the classic jumping hour complication, was inspired by the overhead flap panels that […]

Bauhaus Meets The Atelier: How Nomos Turned Its Dials Into Art For The Twice Unique Collection Fratello
Nomos Turned Sep 8, 2026

Bauhaus Meets The Atelier: How Nomos Turned Its Dials Into Art For The Twice Unique Collection

I still remember running from booth to booth during Watches and Wonders when an email from Nomos arrived in my inbox. It introduced the brand’s new Twice Unique collection and immediately looked like an eclectic new initiative. With this new collection, Nomos celebrates collaboration and creative freedom, allowing the brand to experiment. The dials in […] Visit Bauhaus Meets The Atelier: How Nomos Turned Its Dials Into Art For The Twice Unique Collection to read the full article.

Oris Extends Its Muppets Line with the Most Audacious Version Yet Worn & Wound
Oris Extends Sep 7, 2026

Oris Extends Its Muppets Line with the Most Audacious Version Yet

Like many generations of kids past and present, I grew up on the Muppets, and well, quite frankly, I’ve never outgrown them. They are one of those rare and fantastic so-called kids’ universes that really transcend age and time. However, when Oris first partnered with the franchise in 2023, I was skeptical. Cartoons, superheroes, Muppets – there are plenty I love, and, of course, I also love watches. I’m just not sure I love the two together. Now, I’m fairly certain I’m in the minority. The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition seems to be an enduring fan favorite, later followed up by the ProPilot X “Miss Piggy.” The designs are by all accounts very simple and subtle, with Kermit’s face casually appearing in the date window and Miss Piggy only featured on the caseback. Still, something about them always felt a bit kitschy to me. About a month ago, a teaser came through my inbox announcing a forthcoming Muppet model, and I slotted the information away. Like many of us can tend to do once we’ve been deeply ingrained enough in the watch world, I filed the announcement under the category, “this is not for me.” Let this serve as a good reminder to remain open and willing to change your preferences – to be surprised. When I finally got the full press release for the new ProPilot X Gonzo Edition, I started rethinking my position on these types of collaborations altogether. The creativity and attention to detail really blew me away. A lot of brands talk about ma...

Here Are The Finalists for the 2026 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Hodinkee
Sep 7, 2026

Here Are The Finalists for the 2026 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève

Last week, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) announced the finalists for the 2026 edition of watchmaking's premier awards ceremony, which will be held in Geneva on November 7. Being a finalist has the potential to be a big deal for any participating brand, but it can be a watershed moment for small first-timers (of which there are a couple this year). It's also a list I've been waiting for with some anxiety. The winners of the 2025 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Photo courtesy GPHG. This year, I'm lucky to be on the jury with 23 other journalists, collectors, and watchmaking industry members, including the jury's first-time president, Wei Koh. Among them are many talented friends and people whom I've gotten to know over my years in the industry, including Michael Tay (Group Managing Director of The Hour Glass in Singapore), Hind Abdul Hamied Seddiqi (CEO of Dubai Watch Week), the talented watchmaker Rémy Cools and incredible automaton maker François Junod, my friend Justin Hast, artist Wes Lang, and a few others.  Without going on too long or being too saccharine about the whole thing, it really is quite cool to be on the jury with such smart and talented members. Nothing is without flaws, and like I'll get to in a moment, there are a lot of brands not competing that I would love to see in the mix. But one of the things that I think about a lot (and which goes unmentioned far too often) is the number of people putting their heart, soul, and tremendous a...

First Look - The Gold Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Limited Edition 100 Monochrome
Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Sep 7, 2026

First Look - The Gold Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Limited Edition 100

Since its founding in 1906 in Hamburg, Montblanc has built its reputation on luxury writing instruments. In 1997, Montblanc expanded its offerings to include watches. Bringing the two seemingly disparate worlds of fountain pens and mechanical watches closer together, Montblanc released the Nicolas Rieussec in 2008, a monopusher chronograph inspired by an 1821 inking chronograph […]

First Look - The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Returns in New 42mm Versions (Incl. Video) Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Returns Sep 7, 2026

First Look - The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Returns in New 42mm Versions (Incl. Video)

As Formula 1 arrives in Madrid this coming weekend for the inaugural Spanish Grand Prix, TAG Heuer, Title Partner of the race and Official Timekeeper of Formula 1, is using the occasion to bring its Carrera Chronograph Sport back into focus. The new series is an evolution of the 2020 Carrera Sport Chronograph, a contemporary, […]

Introducing - Union Glashütte Unveils the Compact and Dressy Seris Small Second Collection Monochrome
Union Glashütte Sep 7, 2026

Introducing - Union Glashütte Unveils the Compact and Dressy Seris Small Second Collection

Recent releases from Union Glashütte have been largely about chronographs, from the latest Averin Chronograph with its white embossed tile-pattern dial to the Belisar Chronograph with its monochromatic look. Now, the Glashütte-based brand has something different in store with a new addition to its Seris family. Positioned as a more feminine collection, the Seris has […]

Reframing My Image Of The Leica ZM 11 Titanium Coffee Black Fratello
Ming My Image Sep 6, 2026

Reframing My Image Of The Leica ZM 11 Titanium Coffee Black

When it comes to brands and their expertise, I am a bit of a purist. There is a famous Dutch saying: “Cobbler, stick to your last.” In other words, stick to what you do best. Some fields, like horology, require highly specialized expertise and craftsmanship, making it hard for a brand known for operating in […] Visit Reframing My Image Of The Leica ZM 11 Titanium Coffee Black to read the full article.

This New Hamilton Field Watch Has a Cosmic Story, but the Dial Is the Real Hook Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hamilton Field Watch Has Sep 5, 2026

This New Hamilton Field Watch Has a Cosmic Story, but the Dial Is the Real Hook

Hamilton has returned to the 38mm Khaki Field Murph with another variation, and this time the familiar Interstellar watch is getting considerably more color. The new Murph pairs the existing 38mm platform with a textured blue dial that darkens toward black at its perimeter. Hamilton says the dial was inspired by the glowing ionized gases surrounding an interstellar comet. If you ask me, that explanation feels secondary to the simpler reality: someone decided the Murph would look good in blue. I think they were probably right.

Why A Seiko 5 Is The Perfect Holiday Watch Fratello
Seiko 5 Sep 5, 2026

Why A Seiko 5 Is The Perfect Holiday Watch

The plan was simple: load the Subaru Forester, fold out the rooftop tent, and disappear for two nights at Frazer Beach, a small campground tucked inside Munmorah State Conservation Area on the New South Wales Central Coast, north of Sydney. The watch decision took considerably less thought than the packing list. A black-dial Seiko 5 […] Visit Why A Seiko 5 Is The Perfect Holiday Watch to read the full article.

High Five! Here’s The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, The Dress Watch’s Fifth Iteration Fratello
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Sep 5, 2026

High Five! Here’s The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, The Dress Watch’s Fifth Iteration

A black-and-gold watch is hardly a new idea. It is one of those colorways that watch brands opt for whenever they want something to look slightly more serious, a bit more elegant, or simply a little more expensive. But that’s not what the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt is all about. The […] Visit High Five! Here’s The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, The Dress Watch’s Fifth Iteration to read the full article.