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IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Review Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Apr 28, 2025

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Review

The pilot watch genre is a funny thing. These watches are marketed and sold for their connection to history and/or their usefulness within the field of aviation. This history has set a visual identity that defines the genre to this day, with complications like flyback timers and slide rules often featuring heavily. Of course, very few of the owners put these features to use, with fewer still serving as actual pilots. Thus, the pilot watch genre really serves as more of a vibe than any kind of practical watermark. There are exceptions to this, however, and ironically enough, some of the most practical everyday tool watches find themselves with the “pilot watch” designation, and there is perhaps no better example of this than the IWC Mark XX. The name of the game with any great tool watch is clarity. Ideally, there’s nothing superfluous to cloud the core goals of the tool, with a premium placed on simple legibility. One of the strongest templates based on this ethos is the IWC Mark XI from the late ‘40s. It wasn’t the first IWC Mk watch, but it is the one responsible for casting a die that persists to this day in the form of the Mk XX. There are important distinctions, which I’ll get to, but the underpinnings of the modern Mk XX collection are built on the same general formula that made the Mk XI great: it’s easy to use, easy to understand, easy to wear, and is exactly as stout as it needs to be. IWC enjoys a highly developed design language for its range of pi...

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Auctions: A.-L. Breguet to F.P. Journe at Christie’s Geneva SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Apr 27, 2025

Auctions: A.-L. Breguet to F.P. Journe at Christie’s Geneva

Rare Watches in Geneva kicks off the spring auction season for Christie’s. Some of the highlights amongst the sale’s 183 lots illustrates the history and evolution of horology, most notably with timepieces by Abraham-Louis Breguet and Francois-Paul Journe. The notable F.P. Journe offerings include a Resonance pre-souscription and a Ruthenium full house, complete with numbered box. The standouts from Breguet include a pocket watch first owned by Pauline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s younger sister, an early striking carriage clock, and an intriguing Type XX precursor literally gone askew. F.P Journe Principally inspired by the work of A.-L. Breguet and Antide Janvier, Francois-Paul Journe’s landmark Chronomètre à Résonance was the first attempt at synchronised, coupled oscillators in a wristwatch. The first numbered 20 examples were reserved for a Breguet-style souscription series – paid in advance by the client – but were not the first made. Image – Christie’s A handful of pre-production watches were made for Basel 1999, followed by the pre-souscription series to which this watch belongs. About 20 watches starting from “21” onwards are pre-souscription, and this is “041/00R”. Notably, one example prior, “040/00R”, sold for a little under CHF1.4 million including fees at Christie’s in 2023, setting a record. Image – Christie’s  The Ruthenium collection, built in 99 examples each across five models from 2001 to 2005, includes the Octa Calendrie...

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First Look – Eberhard & Co. Presents its New Retro-Inspired Contodat Collection Monochrome
Eberhard & Co. Apr 25, 2025

First Look – Eberhard & Co. Presents its New Retro-Inspired Contodat Collection

While Eberhard & Co. is a household name among Italian watch collectors, its rich history and longstanding tradition in producing chronographs have yet to be discovered by a wider audience. Founded by Georges Eberhard in 1887 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand’s pocket watch chronographs gave way to its first wristwatch chronograph in 1919. Models that […]

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Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Apr 21, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001

Patek Philippe came to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a deep bench of strong new releases, but for fans of the classic Calatrava, the standout was without question the Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001. It’s an easy watch to love, with good proportions, a hefty 38 mm platinum case, a lively “salmon” dial, and is powered by the brand’s latest generation movement. Though the brand was arguably overshadowed this year by its suburban Geneva neighbors Rolex and Vacheron Constantin, at lower and higher ends of the price spectrum, respectively, Patek Philippe demonstrated its ability to deliver in every category, from simple dress and sport watches to mid and high complications. Initial thoughts In February 2017 I was asked what I wished to see from Baselworld that year. I said I’d like to see a successor to the ref. 5196 with a case-filling movement and a large balance. Eight years later, Patek Philippe delivered more or less exactly what I imagined, keeping the proportions and details of the classic Calatrava with a more advanced movement than the outdated cal. 215 that was used at the time. So in a sense, this watch was made for me.  But I had not anticipated a “salmon” dial. Officially labelled “rose-gilt opaline” by Patek Philippe, such dials have become popular among collectors, and are now a staple across the Patek Philippe collection. Naturally, a vivid colour like this helps an otherwise simple watch stand out, but personally I look forward to more toned down iter...

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SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders 2025 Roundup SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin were standouts – Apr 13, 2025

SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders 2025 Roundup

With Watches & Wonders 2025 having just concluded, we discuss the best watches seen at the fair, as well as developments and happenings at the year’s biggest watch fair. We cover the establishment brands – Rolex and Vacheron Constantin were standouts – and the independents. (For a written take on the fair, read my editorial.) Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M 2220.80.00 Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Apr 11, 2025

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M 2220.80.00

“That makes perfect sense, since MI6 looks for maladjusted young men who’d give little thought to sacrificing others in order to protect queen and country. You know, former SAS types with easy smiles and expensive watches - Rolex?” “Omega.” I’m not James Bond. I know it may come as a surprise, but I don’t spend my time playing in high-stakes poker games (or baccarat, if you prefer the books), I don’t chase terrorists across European cities, and I don’t save the world from a colorful megalomaniac every few years. But I do have a bit of a crush on Eva Green, and I do wear an Oh-meeg-uh, so I guess I can forgive the confusion. Specifically, and for about the last half-decade, I’ve been wearing a reference 2220.80.00 Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M, the same watch worn by Daniel Craig in the infamous train car scene of Casino Royale quoted above, and, for my money, the best Seamaster to come out of Bern, maybe ever. I don’t make that claim lightly. The Seamaster is, by the standards of a ‘luxury’ watch, remarkably ubiquitous. I see Seamasters a lot - on the wrists of my bartenders, on the subway, and almost every time I move through an airport. A lot of that is thanks to one thing: Bond. But while most people know the Seamaster thanks to its starring role in three decades worth of Bond films, the name goes back far further - all the way to 1946.  Granted, those first Seamasters have very little to do with the dive watches we most associ...

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Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2025 Highlights Fratello
Tudor Apr 3, 2025

Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2025 Highlights

On this rapid-fire episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho and Lex take a short break from their busy schedules to discuss some of their Watches and Wonders 2025 highlights. On location at the YouTube studio at the show, they quickly run through some of the most notable releases, starting with Rolex and Tudor and moving on […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2025 Highlights to read the full article.

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Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic Apr 1, 2025

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic

For the first time since 1998, and for only the second time in the nearly 100-year history of its most iconic model, Jaeger-LeCoultre has squeezed a world timer into the Reverso. The result is the Reverso Tribute Geographic, which features a demure primary dial with an outsize date on one side and an exquisite world time display on the other. The Geographic is available in a stainless steel case with a blue dial or as part of a 150-piece limited edition in 18k rose gold featuring a chocolate brown dial. Both models share the same dimensions, which are unfortunately a bit on the large side. Initial thoughts There’s a lot to like about the Reverso Geographic. Reversos like this that hide a complication on the second dial are deeply appealing to me, and carry with them the thrill of keeping a secret. It also gives the watch a split personality, enabling the wearer to choose the dial that matches their mood. While I immediately liked the concept of the Geographic, I was slightly disappointed to see the dimensions, which match those of the Reverso Tribute Chronograph launched in 2023. At 49.4 mm long by 29.9 mm wide, the Geographic is among the larger Reversos, meaning it loses some of the intended vintage charm. That said, the size is a consequence of its functionality – a smaller case size would make the world time display unreasonably small. One of the things I liked about the Tribute Chronograph that also applies to the Geographic is the fact that it’s very much a sle...

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Watches And Wonders 2025: Geneva’s Grand Horological Showcase Is Here Fratello
Mar 31, 2025

Watches And Wonders 2025: Geneva’s Grand Horological Showcase Is Here

As the Northern Hemisphere eagerly anticipates spring’s arrival, the watchmaking community’s attention turns to Geneva, where the prestigious Watches and Wonders fair will take place from April 1st to 7th, 2025. This year’s event promises to be the largest and most diverse gathering in its four-year history. A record 60 brands will be taking over […] Visit Watches And Wonders 2025: Geneva’s Grand Horological Showcase Is Here to read the full article.

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W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Tudor rerelease Mar 27, 2025

Join Us Live for Watches and Wonders Reactions

Watches and Wonders is right around the corner. Soon enough, we’ll know all about the latest and greatest releases from the biggest names in horology and all of our burning questions will be answered. Are those Rolex “leaks” real? Will Tudor rerelease the Montecarlo? What kind of sandwiches will be served in the press room? I don’t know about you, but my favorite part of the Watches & Wonders experience is finally getting the chance to chop it up with fellow watch nerds about the new releases. That’s why we’re going live. On Tuesday, April 1st from 11:00 AM to 1:00 PM ET, I’ll be joined by my colleague Devin Pennypacker on the Worn & Wound YouTube channel for a special Watches & Wonders Reaction Livestream. We’ll break down all the news, giving our takes on the biggest drops, and, of course, fielding your questions and hot takes in real time. Our editorial team will be on-site in Geneva for the show, bringing you the latest coverage straight from the floor. Expect a steady stream of articles, social content, and videos highlighting the most exciting releases. And, wifi permitting, we’ll do our best to have someone from the team call into the livestream to give us their impressions from Geneva. So grab a coffee (or something stronger), pull up a chair, and join us for a couple of hours of watch talk. And don’t forget to bring your hot takes. Set your reminders now, and we’ll see you in the chat. The post Join Us Live for Watches and Wonders Reactions a...

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Recap: A Special Evening with Bulova – Dallas Film Screening & Afterparty Worn & Wound
Bulova Dallas Film Screening & Mar 26, 2025

Recap: A Special Evening with Bulova – Dallas Film Screening & Afterparty

This past Friday, we had the pleasure of kicking off the first-ever Dallas Windup Watch Fair with an unforgettable evening celebrating Bulova’s 150-year legacy. Hosted at the Alamo Drafthouse Cedars, the event brought together watch enthusiasts for an exclusive screening of a brand-new documentary, America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova, which chronicles the brand’s history of innovation and firsts. The night began with guests arriving and settling in, followed by an insightful introduction from the Worn & Wound team. From there, the lights dimmed, and the much-anticipated film took center stage, offering a deep dive into the pioneering spirit that has defined Bulova for a century and a half. The documentary featured rich storytelling and stunning visuals, including artwork by the talented Alex Asfour (@Alex247), who created both the movie artwork and a special Texas-inspired piece for the occasion. Following the screening, the celebration continued at the Alamo Drafthouse bar, where attendees enjoyed refreshments on Bulova’s tab-an appreciated gesture for the passionate community that came out to support the event. Worn & Wound led a post-screening Q&A; with Richard Callamaras, Collector & Sales Manager at Bulova, and T.J. Harris, Bulova’s Director of Brand Communications. Conversations flowed as guests reflected on the film, shared their enthusiasm for horology, and toasted to Bulova’s milestone anniversary. For those who missed the screening, there’s goo...

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Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Vacheron Constantin Models Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Models Another Friday another Mar 21, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Vacheron Constantin Models

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll start looking ahead to Watches and Wonders. With the world’s biggest watch fair approaching, it’s time to highlight brands celebrating different anniversaries. One of them is Vacheron Constantin, which is celebrating its 270th anniversary in 2025. As that long history is too extensive to sum up with a […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Vacheron Constantin Models to read the full article.

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Insight: Regulating a Mechanical Watch Movement SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 7, 2025

Insight: Regulating a Mechanical Watch Movement

A mechanical watch is not always spot on; less-than-perfect timekeeping can happen, often due to an unruly oscillator. The solution is direct adjustments to the hairspring and balance assembly, either slowing down or speeding up the oscillator, a practice known as regulation. Watchmakers have devised multiple innovations to achieve this, including the free-sprung balance, exemplified by the Gyromax of Patek Philippe and Microstella of Rolex. While a simple concept in principle, the mechanics and practice of regulation are nuanced. Here we’ll delve into the theory of regulation and the primary regulating systems: the curb-pin regulator and the free-sprung (or variable inertia) balance. The Lange L043.4 with a screwed balance inspired by pocket watches Basic concepts In order to better understand watch regulation, we need to first cover some of the basic physics behind the watch oscillator: The component responsible for the running rate of a movement is its regulating organ. The regulating organ is made up of a hairspring paired to a balance, which together are also known as a harmonic oscillator. The natural oscillation period is the time it takes the balance to make a full swing, back and forth. The period is made up of two vibrations, one for each direction of the balance motion, with the escapement being unlocked at each vibration. Notably, the natural period of a balance wheel is intrinsic to itself and does not depend on the escapement type or the going train ratio. ...

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IWC Portugieser Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Mar 4, 2025

IWC Portugieser Buyer's Guide

IWC is a Swiss watch company, founded by an American, whose history is closely tied with Germany. But one of its most enduringly popular timepiece families is called the Portugieser, and it’s likely that lots of enthusiasts and would-be owners don’t even know why - or that the watch itself preceded that now-familiar name by many decades. What's indisputable is the Portugieser's key role in IWC's history and its impact on watchmaking - from its humble origins as a market-specific experiment to its modern incarnation as a major pillar of IWC's collection.   1939: Two Portuguese Businessmen Walk Into a Watch Factory… Stop me if you’ve heard this one before. Actually, don’t bother, because I’ll be retelling the origin story of the IWC Portugieser anyway, for those who aren’t familiar with it. Like much of the rest of the world, in the throes of the Great Depression and under the gathering storm clouds of a second World War, the Swiss watch industry was facing rough economic times in the 1930s. The International Watch Company, based in Schaffhausen in Switzerland’s German-speaking north, dealt with the challenges in a number of practical ways. One was by making wristwatches that could be worn by military pilots for the aerial combat that was looking increasingly inevitable. (I tell that story in much more detail here.) Another was by expanding its reach to international markets such as Portugal. Thus it came to be that two gentlemen by the name of Antonio...

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First Look: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Feb 26, 2025

First Look: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked

Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary debuts are centred on perpetual calendars (at least for now), marking the closing of one chapter and the opening of another. The ingenious new calibre 7138 perpetual calendar marks a definitive new chapter in the brand’s history, while the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked is the swan song for a storied cal. 2120 movement that Audemars Piguet (AP) has relied on for decades. Presented in titanium with a polished BMG bezel, the final edition perpetual calendar is inspired by the Royal Oak pocket watch ref. 25729. This pocket watch lends its sapphire-and-blue aesthetic to the anniversary perpetual calendar, although the pocket watch was ironically powered by a manual wind calibre (as pocket watches tend to be). The ref. 25729PT was a 20-piece limited edition with a matching platinum chain, made in 1992 for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Initial thoughts The anniversary edition marks the end of the cal. 5134/5135 (and the preceding cal. 2120/2800), the long-lived perpetual calendar movement that AP launched in 1978. While great in its time, the movement was dated and somewhat low-tech by modern standards. The retirement of the movement is well deserved, and it is certainly going out in style. At a distance the anniversary perpetual calendar is familiar, but up close it reveals details that make it a little bit more interesting than its peers. These include the blue ringed-sapphire dial, retro signatu...

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Vacheron Constantin’s 270th Anniversary Exhibition: First Stop Abu Dhabi SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s 270th Anniversary Exhibition Feb 26, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s 270th Anniversary Exhibition: First Stop Abu Dhabi

The oldest continuously operating watchmaker, Vacheron Constantin marks its 270th anniversary in 2025. In honour of this milestone, the brand has inaugurated The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence, an exhibition dedicated to its history and timepieces. Divided into four chapters, the exhibition includes archival materials and exceptional timepieces, illustrating the brand’s impressive heritage and knowhow. Now on show in Abu Dhabi until April 15, The Quest will make its way to other countries around the world over the course of the year. The exhibition’s first section, “Beginning”, delves into the brand’s early years with rarely seen historical documents and objects. Notable milestones include the invention of the pantograph, which standardised watch components by improving tolerances, and the Kallista, a 1970s watches made from a one-kilogram gold ingot and adorned with 118 diamonds, and reputedly the most expensive watch in the world at the time. The second chapter, “Artistic Crafts and Finishing,” highlights the brand’s watchmaking and craftsmanship, including engraving, enamelling, gem-setting, and guillochage. The “High Watchmaking” chapter invites visitors to explore the intricate craftsmanship behind the brand’s most complex movements with displays that magnify the tiny components of a movement. Most notably is a set of six sliding glass panels showcasing the 2,877 individual parts and 63 complications of the most complex watch ever, the Be...

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Introducing All Of Audemars Piguet’s First-Semester Novelties For 2025: New Perpetual Calendars, Ceramic Offshore Variants, And Three Code 11.59 Models Fratello
Audemars Piguet s First-Semester Novelties Feb 25, 2025

Introducing All Of Audemars Piguet’s First-Semester Novelties For 2025: New Perpetual Calendars, Ceramic Offshore Variants, And Three Code 11.59 Models

Do you like themed parties? I’m not a huge fan but, as they say, different strokes for different folks. Audemars Piguet celebrates its 150th anniversary this year, and although such a monumental moment in the brand’s history could well do without a theme, there is one. The theme “AP” picked and explored is ergonomics. It […] Visit Introducing All Of Audemars Piguet’s First-Semester Novelties For 2025: New Perpetual Calendars, Ceramic Offshore Variants, And Three Code 11.59 Models to read the full article.

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Frederique Constant Partners with Watch Angels on a Revamped Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Partners Feb 19, 2025

Frederique Constant Partners with Watch Angels on a Revamped Worldtimer

Over the last several years we’ve seen all kinds of models pop up for the creation and distribution of limited edition watches. It’s becoming more and more clear that this most recent period in watch enthusiast history will almost certainly be known as the “Limited Edition Boom,” or something along those lines. Look at the pages of any watch media website, including this one, and you’ll find that news items about various LEs and collaborations dominate the conversation, so it’s no wonder that a cottage industry has sprung up to develop these kinds of watches specifically. Watch Angels is one such platform seeking to provide an ecosystem for brands (mostly independent) to create limited edition versions of watches that are funded by the eventual purchasers. It’s like the old souscription model crossed with Kickstater, with the main difference between Watch Angels and typical crowdfunding mechanisms being that these projects are largely one-offs from already established brands, and not debut collections from a start-up enterprise.  Frederique Constant, certainly not a brand most observers would expect to dabble in a crowdfunding project, is the latest to partner with Watch Angels on a new limited edition release. The Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture seen here is a new and slightly more refined spin on a signature Frederique Constant complication. They’ve been making some version of this watch since 2012 (remember their 10th anniversary worldtimer t...

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Introducing – Bucherer Releases 3 High-End Exclusive Watches from Chopard, Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Feb 10, 2025

Introducing – Bucherer Releases 3 High-End Exclusive Watches from Chopard, Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin

Bucherer, one of the world’s oldest and most esteemed watch retailers, now owned by Rolex, has long been a leader in the industry, and for a few years, offers its customers exclusive access to limited-edition timepieces created in collaboration with renowned partner brands. For years, collectors and enthusiasts have enjoyed unique adaptations of existing models, […]

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Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Omega Seamaster Dive Watches Fratello
Omega Seamaster Dive Watches Another Feb 7, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Omega Seamaster Dive Watches

Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at the brilliant and rich history of Omega Seamaster dive watches. The lineage started in 1957 with the introduction of the first Seamaster 300, which was part of Omega’s famous trilogy along with the first Speedmaster and Railmaster models. After that, the brand released many iconic dive […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Omega Seamaster Dive Watches to read the full article.

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Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2025 Editions Reign in Purple Splendor Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Jan 30, 2025

Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2025 Editions Reign in Purple Splendor

Since its high-profile revival in 2012, the Seiko Astron has continuously evolved in both its technical capabilities and in its size and overall aesthetics. As I explore in greater detail in this little treatise on the Astron models and their esteemed history, the founding member of this modern, solar-powered, GPS-equipped Astron family debuted in an imposing 47mm case in steel, with one dial option, in matte black. Since then, Seiko has refined the elements that necessitated the large dimensions and limited colorways — i.e., reducing the size of the quartz movement’s GPS-reception antenna and improving the efficiency of the dial’s solar cell — and the result has been a plethora of intriguing interpretations. The latest and perhaps most distinguished in terms of colorway dropped just recently.  The Astron GPS Solar SSJ029 and Astron GPS Solar Chronograph SSH171, both limited editions of 1,500 pieces, feature glittering, violet-hued dials that Seiko says are inspired by “cherry blossoms blooming under the stars.” Both of the new watches have cases and bracelets made from titanium and treated with an extra-hard, scratch-resistant black coating that emphasizes the night-sky motif that these models are shooting for aesthetically. The cases are 42mm in diameter, 12.4mm thick, and 47.9mm lug to lug — the result of the aforementioned streamlining since the oversized original’s debut. The dials’ gradient purple colors are enhanced by a sprinkle of starry glitter...

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