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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Cleguer Debuts with Proprietary ‘Innate’ Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s natural escapement Apr 1, 2026

Cleguer Debuts with Proprietary ‘Innate’ Escapement

In the run-up to Watches & Wonders, a new crop of emergent independents is making its debut. But even within a crowded field, the Cleguer Inspiration One manages to stand out with an ambitious proprietary escapement and clever construction. It’s a promising start for founder Mathieu Cleguer, an engineer who’s had a hand in developing several calibres for well-known independent brands. Initial thoughts The artisanal, highly finished time-only watch is a well-worn trope among independents, but occasionally one breaks from the pattern. The Inspiration One from Cleguer Horology is one such watch. Mathieu Cleguer is an industry veteran who has worked as a movement construction consultant and now produces watches under his own name. The opening salvo in what is planned to be a larger ‘Inspiration’ series designed to explore alternative escapements, the Inspiration One is built around the so-called innate escapement, a fresh twist on Breguet’s natural escapement. The system is Mathieu Cleguer’s own design, and from initial analysis it exhibits a surprising degree of ingenuity and is original in its execution. Discreet signature on the interior bezel. The open design - an off-centre dial with exposed escapement - is a familiar arrangement among independents, but the delicacy of the components gives it a refined quality. The 38.5 mm case is well-proportioned, though the 12 mm height borders on tall. While there’s room to develop a more cohesive design language goi...

Hit Or Miss? What To Think About Studio Underd0g’s Revolutionary Strap Solutions? Fratello
Studio Underd0g Apr 1, 2026

Hit Or Miss? What To Think About Studio Underd0g’s Revolutionary Strap Solutions?

Geniuses are often misunderstood. Vincent van Gogh is a good example. During his lifetime, the now-much-revered painter sold, most likely, just one painting. Will designer Magnus Swann follow in Van Gogh’s footsteps? He’s the guy responsible for creating Studio Underd0g’s unique strap solutions. After a lengthy period of conceptualizing, he came up with The Triple […] Visit Hit Or Miss? What To Think About Studio Underd0g’s Revolutionary Strap Solutions? to read the full article.

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition GBBY967 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Apr 1, 2026

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition GBBY967

Although Grand Seiko is now firmly established on the international watch scene, Credor is still something of a niche brand. Founded in 1974 as the high-end division of Seiko Corporation, with a focus on refined, ultra-thin dress watches decorated with artisanal techniques, Credor was originally available only in Japan until the release of the Locomotive […]

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition GBCF997 Monochrome
Seiko s high-end brand created Apr 1, 2026

Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition GBCF997

Founded in 1974, Credor is Seiko’s high-end brand created to showcase Japanese haute horlogerie, artistic finishing and ultra-thin watchmaking. Originally exclusive to Japan, Credor began its international expansion in 2024 with the launch of the Locomotive model, a watch originally designed by Genta, and will consolidate its position as it will soon be exhibited at […]

World’s Oldest Watch Store Acquired by Patek Philippe SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 31, 2026

World’s Oldest Watch Store Acquired by Patek Philippe

With a history dating back 266 years, Beyer Chronometrie is the world’s oldest watch store, but not for much longer: the store has been sold to Patek Philippe and will close at the end of the year. This turn of events echoes the sale of Bucherer to Rolex three years ago. Come next year, the store with its prime location on Zurich’s posh Bahnhofstrasse will be replaced by an enlarged Patek Philippe boutique. The news was first reported by Swiss newspapers including Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) and Tages-Anzeiger. The sale is perhaps not that surprising given the store’s longtime owner, René Beyer, passed away in 2025 without an heir. The business was passed onto Beyer’s sister, Muriel Zahn-Beyer, who has no children of her own either. According to Ms Zahn-Beyer, speaking to the NZZ, the late René Beyer already planned for the sale prior to his death, having sold a minority stake in the business to Patek Philippe in 2024. Patek Philippe and Beyer have long been partners; in fact, Beyer is also the world’s oldest Patek Philippe retailer, having started carrying the brand around 1842, just a few years after the watchmaker was established in 1839. As a consequence, Beyer was perhaps one of the watchmaker’s most significant retailers, despite having only one store. With the takeover, the multi-brand section of the Beyer store will close, while its existing Patek Philippe boutique will be enlarged. This also means a third of Beyer’s current employees will be kept o...

Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out Fratello
Mar 31, 2026

Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss underrated vintage brands that are worth a long look. We’ve had these types of chats before, but it’s always nice to see what we’ve missed. You’ll hear some familiar names today, as well as about some smaller companies that could be new […] Visit Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out to read the full article.

Complicated Collectors: Sir David Salomons SJX Watches
Breguet watches Mar 31, 2026

Complicated Collectors: Sir David Salomons

“How can you make a watch, my dear boy?” His aunt, Jeanette Salomons, then under medical care in St. Leonards-on-Sea, wrote back to her nephew, David Lionel Salomons, in early March 1867, shortly before her death. He was 16, orphaned since his father Philip’s death earlier that year. His mother, Emma Abigail Montefiore, had died when he was eight. At the time, Salomons lived with his uncle, Sir David Salomons (1st Baronet), the Lord Mayor of London, at Great Cumberland Place, near Marble Arch, making frequent visits to a nearby watchmaker’s shop, where he learned to use a lathe and to file metal to tolerances measured in a fraction of an inch. Fifty years later, that teenage training would allow him to assemble the most comprehensive collection of Breguet watches in history. Broomhill Salomons inherited the expansive Broomhill estate in 1873 when he was 22. His uncle, the first Sir David Salomons, had died without children, and the baronetcy passed to his nephew along with the estate near Tunbridge Wells. The house stood on substantial grounds, and Salomons began altering it almost immediately. Broomhill from the south, a photograph by Sir David Lionel Salomons, 1868 (cropped). Album 19, Richard Levy Family Archive. Image – By permission of the Salomons Museum. He built workshops housing machine tools like lathes, drill presses, and milling equipment. Then came electrical apparatus. Then storage for chemicals and photographic equipment. By the 1890s, the workshop...

Introducing – Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Silver Verzasca Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Mar 30, 2026

Introducing – Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Silver Verzasca

Guido Terreni, the CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier since 2021, has focused on developing the Tonda PF collection, a refined luxury sports watch characterised by understated elegance and fine craftsmanship. A sportier counterpart to the main Tonda PF line, the Tonda PF Sport was launched in 2023 with automatic and chronograph models on integrated rubber straps. With […]

Hands On: Omega Constellation Observatory SJX Watches
Omega Constellation Observatory Mar 30, 2026

Hands On: Omega Constellation Observatory

At long last, Omega has unveiled the spiritual successor to the beloved ‘Pie Pan’ Constellation, complete with its signature domed dial, observatory medallion, and ‘dog leg’ lugs, the Constellation Observatory. First teased on the wrist of actor Delroy Lindo at the Academy Awards, the Observatory debuts in an expansive range of case materials and dial treatments. The collection also marks the commercial debut of Swatch Group’s Laboratoire de Précision, which has developed a new chronometer testing process capable of certifying two-handed watches. As a result, the Observatory carries the unexpected distinction of being the first Master Chronometer that displays only the hours and minutes. The Observatory in 18k Sedna gold, the brand’s trade name for its proprietary rose gold alloy. Initial thoughts The Observatory embodies Omega’s strengths, capitalising on the brand’s historical pedigree and proprietary materials and technologies, including its own durable alloys and the co-axial escapement. The Observatory in steel. On the other hand, the Observatory suffers somewhat on account of its thickness, relying on a movement platform developed at a time when the trend toward large watches appeared to have no end in sight. That said, the case design does a decent job of reducing the perceived thickness, and it looks and feels thinner than many other watches that share its dimensions on paper. It also demonstrates the immense capabilities of the broader Swatch Grou...

How Do You Like Your Rotor - Central, Micro, Or Peripheral? And What About A Hammer? Fratello
Mar 29, 2026

How Do You Like Your Rotor - Central, Micro, Or Peripheral? And What About A Hammer?

Is there such a thing as a best rotor? A pragmatic watchmaker might say a heavy central one that winds the mainspring the most efficiently is the best. A collector of traditional watches with similar movements might say that nothing beats a solid micro-rotor. And I know people with a deep fondness for technical watchmaking […] Visit How Do You Like Your Rotor - Central, Micro, Or Peripheral? And What About A Hammer? to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001 Fratello
Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Vs Mar 29, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for another epic watch battle in our Sunday Morning Showdown series. This week, Mike and Jorg go head-to-head with two popular dive watches. With the recent introduction of the Seiko Marinemaster HBF001, we want to see whether it can take on the popular Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome.” Mike […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001 to read the full article.

New releases from Credor, Krayon, Nomos and more Time+Tide
Nomos Mar 28, 2026

New releases from Credor, Krayon, Nomos and more

With Watches and Wonders happening next month, participating (big box) brands have to wait before being able to release any novelties. However, the past seven days have been extremely busy for the independents and Swatch Group brands! We have Credor debuting a new ceramic dial time-only watch, Krayon playing on the Pac Man anniversary, and … ContinuedThe post New releases from Credor, Krayon, Nomos and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.