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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

eBay Finds: A Gorgeous Vintage Hamilton, Some Weird Digital Watches, Plus a Few Killer Chronographs Worn & Wound
Hamilton Some Weird Digital Watches Mar 27, 2026

eBay Finds: A Gorgeous Vintage Hamilton, Some Weird Digital Watches, Plus a Few Killer Chronographs

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Seamaster Chronograph  Ok, got a great one to start this week, a gorgeous vintage Omega Seamaster chronograph. This one dates to 1968 from the serial number on the movement. It has a tonneau style steel case that is 38mm wide, and is unpolished with nice crisp edges and the original brushed finish. Even the caseback Hippocampus medallion looks sharp. The original high dome acrylic crystal is in good shape, can’t see any cracks although it could use a polish. It is signed on the underside with the Omega logo as it should be. The reverse-panda three register dial is black with white subdials, and it looks to be perfect and original. White stick hands with lume and an orange sweep chono hand with black subdial hands complete the look. The large winding crown is also signed. This gem is powered by the famous and robust Omega caliber 861 movement, the same one used in the second generation of Omega Speedmasters. The movement is clean and runs and works well per the seller. The watch comes on the original bracelet, signed and in great shape. This watch is fabulous, and rare to see at auction. View auction here Dot Matrix Seiko Digital Watch  This one was too cool to pass up,...

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Mar 27, 2026

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” Review

Before we get into my review of the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye, let's get some context about the brand out of the way. Oris traces its foundation to 1904, when two natives of the Swiss watchmaking town of Le Locle, Paul Cattin and Georges Christian, opened their watch factory in the German-speaking Swiss town of Hölstein. Cattin and Christian named their company “Oris” after the Orisbach tributary, a brook near the factory.A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly popular wristwatches, Oris enjoyed a long period of growth and expansion throughout the following decades and even made its own movements. Losing its independence during the consolidation years of the Quartz Crisis, Oris regained it in the 1980s, when a management buyout transformed the company and solidified its mission to make only mechanical watches going forward. Today, Oris is well established as a staple for value-conscious collectors of Swiss-made watches.  While much of its modern output is devoted to sport-oriented timepieces, like the popular Aquis and Divers (formerly Divers Sixty-Five) diving watches, the brand’s most recognizable and emblematic collection is the Big Crown Pointer Date, which has been a mainstay of the brand’s portfolio - and in constant production - since 1938. It was the first watch with a date indication displayed via a central hand on an outer scale, and it took the other part of its model name from its signature design element - an oversiz...

Felipe Pikullik Goes Fully In-House SJX Watches
Mar 27, 2026

Felipe Pikullik Goes Fully In-House

Berlin-based Felipe Pikullik presents his second in-house caliber inside the Sternenhimmel FPA1. The independent’s attempt at a refined workhorse-like movement comes in the form of the newly-developed caliber FPA1, designed to power a range of future creations.  Initial thoughts Mr Pikullik’s emergence into the crowded independent watchmaking scene was based on heavily skeletonised off-the-shelf movements. As he gained a reputation for deft finishing and began to consolidate his workshop, he slowly but surely transitioned toward in-house engineering. Starting with his own complication modules, the German watchmaker’s first truly in-house effort came with last year’s Moonphase II collection, which saw the launch of the calibre FPMP2.  The openworked construction featured a moon phase and 24-hour indicator but, while undoubtedly well-crafted, it arguably lacked a cohesive design language. Its distinctive architecture also made it unsuitable as the foundation for a wider range of pieces. In contrast, the updated Sternenhimmel (German for “starry sky”) features what the independent watchmaker describes as a cornerstone movement for future models. The FPA1 is consequently far more grounded and classical in construction, yet manages to avoid the trap of looking too much like any other artisanal time-only calibre. The ornate backside of the FPA1 caliber. This specific iteration of the Sternenhimmel design is decidedly more modern and technically-oriented, with a flo...

Omega’s New Constellation Observatory Collection Debuts, with a First for a Certified Chronometer Worn & Wound
Omega s New Constellation Observatory Mar 27, 2026

Omega’s New Constellation Observatory Collection Debuts, with a First for a Certified Chronometer

Omega pleased a lot of dress watch and vintage fans this week when they launched the new Constellation Observatory collection at their Swiss headquarters. Zach Weiss is on the ground in Bielle even as we speak getting hands-on with the new watches, and he’ll have a full hands on report with his own photography coming soon. For now, a quick rundown of the new collection, and why it’s a fairly major play for the brand.  The Constellation is a historic Omega collection that has changed a lot through the years, always remaining flexible with the current styles and trends of the day. This collection, though, is a direct shot at the hearts and minds of Omega purists, as its effectively a recreation of the original 1950s Constellation in its broad strokes. The cases and dials will be familiar to anyone who has collected or admired original Constellations, with highly angular cases and distinctive dogleg lug design.  That said, these are not one to one recreations of watches from the 1950s. The cases, on paper at least, are rather large for what most would agree is a riff on a classic dress watch. The diameter is 39.4mm, and case height is 12.23mm. The lug to lug span comes in at 47.2mm. So, not small by any means, but we’ll look forward to Zach’s impressions of how they actually wear soon enough.  As is typical with Omega these days, we have a wide variety of case material and dial options available. We get all three gold alloys that Omega likes to deploy (Sedna, Canop...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer Alternatives In 2026 Fratello
Rolex Explorer Alternatives Mar 27, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer Alternatives In 2026

Another Friday, another list. This week, we picked a Rolex that many of us praise as one of the brand’s best - the Explorer. Introduced in 1953 with its signature 3-6-9 dial, this watch has become a favorite within the enthusiast community. Some of the Fratello team members own one, and I am sure plenty […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.

Andreas Strehler’s Säntis is an Affordable Indie World Time SJX Watches
Mar 27, 2026

Andreas Strehler’s Säntis is an Affordable Indie World Time

Andreas Strehler is expanding his more accessible Strehler brand with the Säntis, a world time wristwatch that’s an evolution of the Sirna time-only from 2023. The Säntis continues with the style established by the Sirna, including the patterned titanium dial and tonneau-esque case. Powered by the same in-house automatic calibre as the Sirna, the Säntis is a classic Cottier-style world time with a cities disc and 24-hour ring. Unsurprisingly given Andreas Strehler’s well-known technical proficiency, the world time mechanism is integrated well into the calibre and is easily set entirely via the crown. Initial thoughts The Säntis is a traditional Cottier-style world time, but one executed well and as practical as a Cottier-style world time can be. While the Säntis is the first Strehler world time, it is not the first travel wristwatch by Andreas Strehler, who has made several in the past, including a bespoke commission. The watch exemplifies Andreas Strehler’s strength, which is high quality watchmaking and complications, but made more affordable under his Strehler label. Though produced in slightly larger numbers than his high-end watches, Strehler watches are still high-quality industrial haute horlogerie that represent strong value. The styling is a little generic, especially at a distance, but as with the Sirna, the watch reveals its details up close, giving it more personality. The patterned dial and hands are distinctive, though the dial is almost anonymous:...

Photo Report: Recapping BLADE Show Texas Worn & Wound
Mar 26, 2026

Photo Report: Recapping BLADE Show Texas

Just one week after our second Windup Watch Fair in Dallas, I returned to the Lone Star State for my first-ever BLADE Show Texas. BLADE Show Texas marks the start of the Blade Show trilogy, held annually in Fort Worth, Texas, before the show travels to Atlanta in June, and ends the season with BLADE Show West in Salt Lake City in October. In typical fashion, I hit the ground running after landing in Dallas, only pausing briefly to drop my luggage off at the hotel before heading to the show venue. After picking up my pass, I spent a bit of time catching up with Rikki and Sam (better known as Capt.Rikki and Raven_the_pirate on Instagram). They were kind enough to let me know about a community barbecue happening later that night, which I couldn’t pass up. While not officially part of the show, these after-hours events are how I’ve managed to meet so many stellar people in this community. After a hearty helping of Texas Barbeque and some good times, we called it an early night, excited for the show to officially start the next day. Heading into the venue for day one, I was absolutely blown away by just how many people had already lined up, even though the show wouldn’t open for a few more hours. I know there’s always some die hard fans who will do so, but seeing several hundred people already in line at 8am was a bit unexpected for this show. I happened to overhear someone mention that they had been in line since 3 AM on Thursday, vying for a few very specific and rare...

Omega Constellation Observatory Review Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Mar 26, 2026

Omega Constellation Observatory Review

I am here in Biel, Switzerland, to witness the unveiling of a brand new Constellation line from Omega – only this fact has proven to be just half the story. While there are nine new references in this new line of watches, Omega has also taken the next step since it launched its neutral accuracy testing program, the Laboratoire de Précision (LDP). While I continue slowly burying the lede here, let’s at least introduce the audience to the new Omega Constellation Observatory, a 39.4mm fresh approach to a classic design format that sees overt nods to the “pie-pan” dial layout as well as a mid-century construction of the case and lugs. The TLDR of this release is as follows: 9 new watches (4 in gold, 4 in steel, and one in platinum gold), two new movements (two done in precious metal, and one rhodium plated), and a new breakthrough in chronometric excellence which allows for both Chronometer and Master Chronometer certification to be done acoustically obviating the need for a seconds hand in the certification process. But don’t worry, we will break down everything about this new collection and new technological feat in the (many) words below. These watches offer a decidedly dressy take on the Constellation format in that they are two-hand watches, meaning there is no visible running seconds hand to be seen anywhere on the dial. This visual marker (or rather, lack thereof) is the key to bridging the external design with the internal significance and connection to the ...

Longines Hydroconquest Gets a High-End Revamp for 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Mar 26, 2026

Longines Hydroconquest Gets a High-End Revamp for 2026

The Longines Hydroconquest, the Saint-Imier brand’s most prominent and forward-looking diver’s watch, made its debut in 2007 and has changed very little in its key features and elements - despite expanding during the nearly two decades since into a variety of sizes, colorways, and materials. That all changes this year, as Longines has introduced the next generation of the Hydroconquest, defined by a host of contemporary upgrades. Here’s what you need to know.  [toc-section heading="Origin of the Hydroconquest"] Before the Hydroconquest came the Conquest. Longines has been making timepieces since 1832, but it wasn’t until 1954 that the Swiss watchmaker began engaging in the modern marketing practice of introducing product families with distinctive names. “Conquest” was the first such name to be registered, on April 3, 1954, with the Swiss Register of Intellectual Property. The original Longines Conquest (reproduced above) was equipped with a highly accurate automatic movement and a water-resistant case that also protected the movement from magnetism and shocks. Despite these utilitarian elements, however, it was undeniably a dress watch, at a very modest 35mm and with a clean, minimalist dial. Longines introduced the bigger, sportier version of the Conquest, called the Hydroconquest, in 2007, during an era when large, rugged watches, particularly divers’ watches, were reaching new heights of popularity. The Hydroconquest, in contrast to its predecessor, was...

Squale Watches Review: A Dive Watch Pioneer Teddy Baldassarre
Squale Mar 25, 2026

Squale Watches Review: A Dive Watch Pioneer

[toc-section heading="Squale Overview"]  Squale is a historic manufacture with a particular specialty in the realm of dive watches. The company’s heritage is deeper than you may realize, as it extends beyond its own footprint, touching an extensive list of partners that helped to shape the dive-watch genre as we know it today. The story of Squale is one of intrigue, and while it became a well known case supplier through the ‘60s and ‘70s, the Swiss brand also boasted a collection of its own designs that hold as well today as they did then. Understanding Squale means taking a step back into the era that birthed it, an era defined by the burgeoning sport of recreational diving as well as the advent of military diving operations.  If you’re a fan of dive watches and the history of their use, Squale is a brand that should be on your radar thanks to its plentiful contributions. Beyond that, collectors will find a vast array of designs in the brand’s modern catalog that both break new ground and preserve the best portions of its history. In this overview, we’ll connect all the dots from then to now.  [toc-section heading="History and Heritage"]  Squale was founded by Charles von Büren in 1959 in the beautiful lakeside town of Neuchâtel, Switzerland. While that’s the official date, von Büren had been assembling watches under his own name for the prior decade, meaning he brought some pedigree to the name from the get-go. The modern dive watch genre was in its ...

Hazemann & Monnin Wins 2026 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Today Mar 25, 2026

Hazemann & Monnin Wins 2026 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize

Today in Paris a panel of five judges – including Carole Forestier-Kasapi and Kari Voutilainen – presented Alexandre Hazemann and Victor Monnin with the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. The very same young watchmakers who won the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition in 2023, the pair clinched the prize for their jump-hour “School Watch”. Launched in 2023 by Jean Arnault, who has spearheaded Louis Vuitton’s fine watchmaking ambitions, the initiative supports promising independent watchmakers while burnishing the maison’s credibility in the watch world. Last year the trophy – and its matching Louis Vuitton trunk – went to Raul Pages for his RP1 Régulateur à Détente. This edition’s victors met at Lycée Edgar Faure, a technical high school in Morteau, France, which is well known for its strong and respected watch and jewellery bent. Their aptly named School Watch developed from the pair’s school watch project. They have since set up shop in Saint-Aubin-Sauges, Switzerland, though both will now have the option of a one-year apprenticeship at Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps manufacture in Geneva, in addition to financial support. In December, a Committee culled the 20 semifinalists, which we covered here, down to just five in December and appointed a five-person panel to select the winner. Other finalists included Norifumi Seki, who debuted the ambitious Fading Hours alarm watch, and Bernhard Lederer. Carole Forestier-Kasapi pr...

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium SJX Watches
Hublot then Mar 25, 2026

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium

IWC started the year with a dramatic new look for a classic, the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium. Almost 30 years old but ageless, the Portugieser Chronograph gains an all-black look and Ceratanium case with this appealing, but pricey, limited edition that encapsulates the brand’s strengths and weaknesses. Initial thoughts In the mid to late 2000s, the all-black look was one the major fads in watchmaking, having been pioneered by Hublot, then at the beginning of its renaissance led by Jean-Claude Biver. All-black watches were everywhere yet desirable, and some even sold for multiples of retail. The Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium is two decades late for that fad, and too early for the next one. But it is still an appealing watch in itself, though expensive compared to the standard version. It’s essentially a Portugieser chronograph dressed entirely in black with a case in ceramic-coated titanium. As a result, it has of the elements that make the model appealing: a symmetrical design, good proportions, slimness, and a distinctive style despite the simplicity. The all-black livery adds to the design, since it goes well with the clean styling. Though complementary aesthetically, the all-black finish and Portugieser design don’t quite pair conceptually, since the Portugieser is a historically inspired dress watch. Despite the incongruity, the Ceratanium chronograph looks and feels good on the wrist. More broadly, the watch illustrates IWC’s strengths and weakness...

[VIDEO] Windup Watch Fair Dallas Recap: Watches, BBQ, and Texas-Sized Enthusiasm Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Junghans Mar 24, 2026

[VIDEO] Windup Watch Fair Dallas Recap: Watches, BBQ, and Texas-Sized Enthusiasm

Everything’s bigger in Texas-and that fact continues to ring true for the Windup Watch Fair Dallas. Returning for its second year and expanding into a full three-day event, the Fair once again took over the Hickory Street Annex, transforming the historic industrial space into a buzzing hub of watches, conversation, and community. With more than 40 brands in attendance, the show floor was packed with everything from established Lead Sponsors like Christopher Ward, Junghans, and Oris to rising independents, alongside a strong showing Miyota, our Official Movement Sponsor, and from Texas-based brands gathered together in our “Texas Roundup” area, deep in the heart of Windup. As always, the show delivered what Windup does best: a hands-on, approachable environment where enthusiasts and newcomers alike could try on watches, meet the people behind the brand, and share in the collective enthusiasm that defines the weekend. But as much as Windup is about watches, Dallas proved once again that it was just as much about the experience. Across the weekend, attendees found plenty to do beyond the booths-whether that meant taking in live art from Sunflowerman, snagging a swig at the Bruichladdich bar, learning about Miyota mechanical movements, or spending time in the Accutron Lounge diving into Tuning Fork and Electrostatic tech. It all added up to the kind of layered, come-as-you-are atmosphere that has become the hallmark of the Fair, which Texas wears well.   Came for th...

Finally, a Japanese Manhole Inspired Watch with a Cloisonné Enamel Dial Worn & Wound
Isotope Osaka Cloisonné Enamel Mar 24, 2026

Finally, a Japanese Manhole Inspired Watch with a Cloisonné Enamel Dial

Having none myself, I’m always a bit impressed when it comes to those who have artistic talent – and that goes doubly for those who can appreciate the everyday beauty around them. This is especially true when those two virtues combine to form a beautiful little timepiece, like the Altmann × Isotope Osaka Cloisonné Enamel, a new collaboration between English watchmaker Isotope and designer, illustrator, and typographer Björn Altmann. The first, and perhaps only, thing you will notice about this watch is its dial, which is based on a municipal manhole cover featuring Osaka Castle. Now, you may be asking yourself, why Japanese manhole covers? I can assure you that you are not alone in that. Apparently, after a Wikipedia deep dive, it is something of an urban art form and a show of civic pride throughout Japan. In fact, more than 15 million manhole covers across the country feature some sort of carved, imprinted, or painted design. This was a niche interest of Isotope founder José Miranda, which eventually led Miranda to Björn Altmann’s book Manhole Covers of the World. This, in turn, led to this collaboration you see before you today. The intricacy of the dial does not stop with its source material. The dial itself is made in grand feu cloisonné enamel, using fine silver wires and multiple rounds of firing to build out the design and color. The process took close to a year to develop, and in the end only five dials were successfully completed, which helps explain ...