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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer Hodinkee
Breitling Universal Genève Sep 3, 2026

Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer

What We Know As we walked around Geneva on day one of Geneva Watch Days, we saw signs being put up for Gallet, and I thought how poetic. On the eve of the brand's relaunch, it's certainly an exciting time for fans of the brand. The parent group, House of Brands—Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet—already relaunched Universal Genève earlier this year and is rounding out 2026 by bringing back Gallet today, with one of the brand's most enduring models, the Flying Officer, in two variations: the Flying Officer Chronograph 40 and the Flying Officer Automatic 40. Today's reintroduced Flying Officer arrives in four dial colors across two versions, all cased in 40mm steel. Case specs are shared across the range: 20mm lug width, a screwed-in steel caseback, cambered sapphire glareproofed on both sides, and 100 meters of water resistance. The chronograph case is 15.02mm thick with a 47.55mm lug-to-lug; the three-hand case is thinner, at 10.67mm, with a 47.49mm lug-to-lug. Both versions share a bezel with a city ring listing 24 destinations, mixing major international airports with more remote locations. The Flying Officer Chronograph 40 comes in light blue or black, both with tone-on-tone subdials, and runs the Gallet 23, an automatic caliber based on the Sellita SW510. It measures 30mm in diameter and 7.9mm thick, runs at 28,800 vph (4Hz), and offers an approximate 62-hour power reserve. It offers quarter-second chronograph timing with a 30-minute counter. The Flying Offi...

Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Of 2026 So Far Fratello
Sep 3, 2026

Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Of 2026 So Far

We’re already well into 2026, and the watch industry has given us plenty to talk about. From major releases by established manufacturers to smaller brands introducing watches that caught our attention, there has been no shortage of new things to discover. But which watches actually stand out? In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Of 2026 So Far to read the full article.

The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns Having Sep 3, 2026

The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns

Having remade – and refined – its first-ever wristwatch, Louis Vuitton now does the same for the second. The Monterey Ceramic is a reimagining of the LV II of 1988, preserving the Gae Aulenti-designed case and dial but in modern, high-end materials and execution. As with the earlier Monterey in 18k gold, the new model in ceramic does away with the quartz movement of the 1988 original and replaces it with an in-house automatic calibre. The case has been scaled up a little to accommodate the calibre, but retains the proportions and quirky form of the original. But unlike last year’s model, the Monterey Ceramic is regular production. Initial thoughts The Monterey Ceramic is basically a more affordable iteration of last year’s limited edition in 18k gold. It retains the same design, movement, but replaces gold with ceramic (and steel), and the fired enamel dial with a lacquered one. Even with these changes, the Monterey Ceramic is still a far more sophisticated watch than its 1988 inspiration. I like the styling of the 1988 originals, and the modern-day reissues both manage to capture the look and feel of the originals. The Monterey Ceramic in particular sticks to the case diameter of the original, albeit a little thicker, but sticks closely enough to the proportions of the LV II. The Monterey Ceramic is priced like a modern-day luxury watch, but it has the intrinsic features to justify the price. The Monterey Ceramic costs €19,000 before taxes, which is less than a ...

Beyond the Familiar: A History of A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Collection SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 3, 2026

Beyond the Familiar: A History of A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Collection

Ferdinand Adolph Lange was born in Dresden on February 18th, 1815. Thirty years later he’d found his eponymous company, and 145 years after that a new A. Lange & Söhne would rise from the proverbial ashes of East Germany. The A. Lange & Söhne we know today debuted in 1994 when the brand launched four watches: the Arkade, Saxonia, Lange 1, and the flagship Tourbillon Pour le Mérite, which established a set of visual codes that would later define the 1815 collection. Today, the 1815 family is primarily known for its many time-only variants, the 1815 Up/Down, and, of course, the 1815 Chronograph. However, the 1815 collection also includes some of the brand’s most extraordinary, unusual, and rarely seen models. Lange 1815 Emil Lange Moon Phase (1999) The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite of 1994 defined the 1815 collection’s design codes, specifically the printed Arabic dial that is vaguely reminiscent of a pocket watch despite being an almost from-scratch design. However, it was not officially badged as an 1815. That designation arrived the following year with the refs. 206.021 in yellow gold and 206.025 in white gold. These introductions saw the rectangular movement inside the Arkade and Saxonia reformatted to make it presentable through a display case back. The extra space was put to use in the followup 1815 Up/Down, which added the namesake power reserve indicator and recreated the running seconds. In 1999, Lange launched the 1815 Moonphase Emil Lange (1849-1921) to mark...

Beyond the Familiar: A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Retrospective SJX Watches
Angelus t Sep 3, 2026

Beyond the Familiar: A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Retrospective

Ferdinand Adolph Lange was born in Dresden on February 18, 1815. Thirty years later he’d found the eponymous company, and 145 years after that a reborn A. Lange & Söhne would rise from the proverbial ashes of East Germany. The A. Lange & Söhne we know today debuted in 1994 when the brand launched four watches: Arkade, Saxonia, Lange 1, and the flagship Tourbillon Pour le Mérite, which established a set of visual codes that would later define the 1815 collection. Today, the 1815 family is primarily known for its many time-only variants, the 1815 Up/Down, and, of course, the 1815 Chronograph. However, the 1815 collection also includes some of the brand’s most extraordinary, unusual, and rarely seen models. Photo credits: @lelangelust and @scatteringphotons Lange 1815 Emil Lange Moon Phase, c. 1999 The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite of 1994 defined the 1815 collection’s design codes, specifically the printed Arabic dial that is vaguely reminiscent of a pocket watch despite being an almost from-scratch design. However, it was not officially badged as an 1815. That designation arrived the following year with the refs. 206.021 in yellow gold and 206.025 in white gold. These introductions saw the rectangular movement inside the Arkade and Saxonia reformatted to make it presentable through a display case back. The extra space was put to use in the followup 1815 Up/Down, which added the namesake power reserve indicator and recreated the running seconds. In 1999, Lange launched...

Bulgari Taps the Independent Talent of Vianney Halter for Its Next Octo Finissimo Worn & Wound
Bulgari Taps Sep 2, 2026

Bulgari Taps the Independent Talent of Vianney Halter for Its Next Octo Finissimo

Since its inception in 2014, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has propelled the Maison into the realm of serious watchmaking, a rare accomplishment for a brand whose origins are deeply rooted in jewelry making. In just over a decade, the models have gone on to break numerous world records (10 to be exact) and take on countless forms from highly complicated versions to ones that play with a range of materials. Along the way, Bulgari has called upon several artists across various mediums to collaborate on designs, resulting in co-created editions with names like Tadao Ando, Lee Ufan, and Mo Coppoletta. Now, for the first time, Bulgari has looked within the industry to partner with another watchmaker, tapping independent Vianney Halter for the next evolution of the iconic Octo. Although this recent collaboration hails from the expertise of two watchmakers, other artforms still come into play, namely the element of sculpture. Bulgari has long been vocal about the influences of Roman art, architecture, and design in its creations. Similarly, Vianney Halter draws inspiration from other modalities, which informs the three dimensional and industrial design language that brings a sculptural nature to his timepieces. These shared values and visions align in the new Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter. When I think of the aesthetic codes of both Bulgari and Vianney Halter, they are bold, clearly defined, and instantly recognizable. At first glance, reading the headline of the pr...

First Look - The Bulgari Titanio, The Titanium Evolution of the Aluminium Collection Monochrome
Bulgari Titanio Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The Bulgari Titanio, The Titanium Evolution of the Aluminium Collection

Titanium is the common thread running through Bulgari’s Geneva Watch Days 2026 releases. Alongside the more experimental Octo Finissimo models, the brand also brings the material to one of its most recognisable everyday collections. The new Bulgari Titanio evolves the familiar Aluminium series with cases made from grade 5 titanium, while retaining the collection’s characteristic […]

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition Hodinkee
Richard Mille prices But Moser Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition

What We Know If H. Moser is guaranteed to do anything, it's to surprise us. A watch made out of cheese. A watch inspired by the Reebok "Pump." Those are easier to process because they're fun and a bit silly. But when Moser signed a deal to be a sponsor of Alpine's Formula 1 team, it was even more surprising to me. That's a serious sponsorship for a brand that makes far fewer than 5,000 watches a year and doesn't charge Richard Mille prices. But Moser is taking full advantage of the platform and turning out very sporty watches, including this new collaboration.  This isn't the first collaboration between the brands; it began with a surprising smartwatch for the pit crew, paired with a skeletonized chronograph. Pierre Gasly (one of Alpine's drivers) also got his own limited edition. But this one takes the automotive inspiration in a different direction: lightweight and with all the Alcantara you could want (maybe even more).  While Moser has done a Streamliner tourbillon in ceramic before, that watch came with a full dial and a ceramic bracelet. The 40mm by 12.8mm case is made of anthracite grey ceramic, but now it comes with an integrated light blue Alcantara strap, a synthetic microfiber material with a soft, suede-like texture. If you're into cars, you've run into this material a lot. Unlike the previous release, this is the first skeleton-flying tourbillon version of the Streamliner, made in ceramic. Powered by the HMC 814, the watch has blue-toned plates with diamond...

A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton - An Alpine Limited Edition Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Sep 2, 2026

A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton - An Alpine Limited Edition

There is something particularly Moser about taking a watch already built around an absurd amount of visible mechanics and deciding that what it really needs is a ceramic case. Today, I’m taking a look at the new H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition. It’s the third project born from the […] Visit A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton — An Alpine Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Hodinkee
Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 What Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5

What We Know Okay, let's do this one last time, yeah? For real this time. This is it. At least, I think this is it, because Doxa has yet another new watch (actually, a whole collection of 'em), and it's one a lot of people have been asking for. But before we get to that, a quick recap, because this year, Doxa has dropped (by my count and in rough order): the oversized Sub 750T, the new Sub 200 T.Graph II, the limited edition Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler, a LE Sub 200 T.Graph II with Topper, a Sub Army 200T (in collaboration with Hodinkee), and — just over a week ago — the very cool Doxa Sub 300 Beta "Frogger" in collaboration with San Diego's Belmont Watches. So, it's been a big year, and now they're rounding out the summer with a hell of a line expansion with the — now standard production — Doxa Sub 300 Ti5. Basically, this new watch takes the Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler released earlier in the summer and strips out all the 'Cussler-y' details. The result is… well, it's basically a Sub 300 in titanium, something I've heard plenty of Doxa fans clamoring for since the Cussler edition launched earlier this summer. Unlike the Cussler model (which was limited to just 300 pieces) and played just a little bit more with the format of the Sub 300, this new Sub 300 Ti5 pretty much follows the recipe to the letter. Even the dimensions are identical to the standard steel Sub 300, measuring 42.5mm across, 13.4mm thick, and 45mm lug-to-lug (in other words, perfect). The dial and b...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Armin Strom Co-Founders And Top Executives Serge Michel and Claude Greisler Hodinkee
Armin Strom Co-Founders Sep 2, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Armin Strom Co-Founders And Top Executives Serge Michel and Claude Greisler

This week on The Business of Watches, a visit with the folks running Armin Strom, a true original in the small but increasingly crowded field of independent watch brands. It takes its name and original inspiration from the eponymous Swiss watchmaker who was best known for his innovative and record-setting skeletonizing techniques on watches and dials.  Childhood friends Serge Michel and Claude Greisler took over the brand in 2006. Michel, who controls the company, came from a family business background (in another field of business), while Greisler was a watchmaker and engineer. Twenty years on, Armin Strom is a true original in Swiss watchmaking, producing unique timepieces pushing the boundaries of contemporary horology from an atelier in Biel / Bienne, where most of the components are produced, decorated and finished for the brand's proprietary, in-house designed movements.  Claude Greisler (left) and Serge Michel, the co-founders of Armin Strom. This week the brand launch a new version of its Dual Time GMT Resonance in a "manufacture blue edition" with a blue mainplate. The watch employs Armin Strom's unique take on the concept of resonance with dual oscillators kept in balance by its proprietary 'resonance clutch.' The story of the development of the brand's take on the concept is a key element in its journey and we explore and unpack that process in-depth in the episode. Currently making about 400 watches a year with a staff of about 55 people, Armin Strom is on...

First Look - The Maurice Lacroix Aikon-IC Frozen Carbon Collection (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Aikon-IC Frozen Carbon Collection Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The Maurice Lacroix Aikon-IC Frozen Carbon Collection (Incl. Video)

Last year, the highly successful Aikon collection welcomed the next generation of integrated sports watches for Maurice Lacroix, with the Aikon-IC range. With the added “IC” referring to Innovative Craftsmanship, Maurice Lacroix created a playground for colours, materials and finishes, as well as complications, as seen in the Aikon-IC Master Triple Retrograde. The first series […]

First Look - The New Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian Monochrome
Louis Vuitton s elite watchmaking atelier Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The New Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian

The Gérald Genta brand was officially revived as an independent stand-alone marque by Louis Vuitton’s elite watchmaking atelier, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), in 2023. With a focus on high-end complications in limited quantities, the spirit of legendary designer Gérald Genta (1931-2011) lives on. For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Gérald Genta releases a second iteration […]

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39 Hodinkee
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39

What We Know Unveiling four new calibers in just 12 months, Girard-Perregaux has been rather busy lately. The La Chaux-de-Fonds-based marque celebrated a half-century of its Laureato model last year, with the introduction of the Laureato Fifty, including two-tone and Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon models. GP followed that up in 2026 with the Laureato Fifty becoming a permanent part of the model line and the introduction of 39 millimeter and 36mm models, showcasing the historic integrated bracelet watch design first introduced in 1975, as well as the signature bridges and grand feu enamel and precious metals dials at the heart of the brand's savoir-faire. Today, GP is introducing yet another Laureato, the Fifty Tourbillon micro-rotor in 39mm, aiming to bring together key design and mechanical elements defining Girard-Perregaux over its 235-year history.  The Fifty Tourbillon is housed in a stainless steel case measuring 39mm in diameter and a svelte 10mm thick, with a matching integrated bracelet in the same metal offering 4mm of micro-adjust capability. Available in two Clous de Paris motif dial versions, a blue grand-feu enamel, or 18 karat rose gold, the watch features and celebrates classic Laureato and GP elements. The signature is the 'lyre-shaped' tourbillon at 6 o'clock supported by white gold, arrow-shaped bridges that draw on the brand's historic three-bridge design first produced by Constant Girard back in 1867.   The relatively restrained dial features lumed...

Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis Hodinkee
Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis

What We Know In honor of the centennial of legendary musician Miles Davis' birth, Breitling has just announced a limited edition collection at Geneva Watch Days. I say collection because it's more than just one watch, if you want it to be. At the core, Breitling has launched a 500-piece limited-edition model, the steel Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis, which is inspired by the ref. 806 Mk 5 Navitimer that was worn by the famous jazz musician. If a single steel option isn't enough for you Davis heads out there, Breitling is also producing 50 three-piece sets that offer a trio of executions of the watch, spanning steel, yellow gold, and even platinum with a blue dial.  We can start with the core model, reference AB09501A1B1X1 or AB09501A1B1A1, depending on whether you want a leather strap or the bracelet (you want the bracelet). Measuring 41mm wide (the same as the reference worn by Davis), 13mm thick, and 47.1 mm lug-to-lug, the Navitimer Miles Davis uses a Breitling B09 hand-wound movement that is COSC-certified, ticks at 4 Hz, and employs both a column wheel and a vertical clutch. Water resistance is 30 meters, and this special edition sports both cream-colored lume and Breitling's (very cool) Twin Jet logo.  And then there is the bracelet, a modern interpretation of the Air Racer bracelet that uses a cuff design with large holes. For this execution, Breitling has added hinged links near the clasp to help with comfort. But that's not all; aside from a gorgeous...

Striking a chord: The L.Leroy Vox Temporis swaps a minute hand for a minute repeater Time+Tide
Oris swaps Sep 2, 2026

Striking a chord: The L.Leroy Vox Temporis swaps a minute hand for a minute repeater

L.Leroy introduces the Vox Temporis, an exclusive minute repeater and flying tourbillon. It features an unconventional single fixed hand with a rotating dial, inspired by a historic 1810 tact watch. Produced in titanium, red gold, and platinum, the watch is limited to just 15 pieces across all three case materials. For modern collectors, the appeal … Continued

Introducing - Trilobe Releases the Chateau Trente-Deux with a Burgundy dial Monochrome
Trilobe Sep 2, 2026

Introducing - Trilobe Releases the Chateau Trente-Deux with a Burgundy dial

Founded by Gautier Massonneau in 2018, Trilobe is a French brand distinguished by its hand-free displays. Instead of traditional hands, Trilobe uses three rotating rings that align with fixed markings to display time in motion.  Last year, Trilobe released the Trente-Deux, a luxury sports watch with the brand’s unconventional display in an elegant steel case […]

The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 In Grade 5 Titanium Joins The Brand’s Regular Collection Fratello
Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Sep 2, 2026

The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 In Grade 5 Titanium Joins The Brand’s Regular Collection

Doxa is expanding its standard-production Sub 300 collection with the new Sub 300 Ti5. This introduction marks the permanent return of Grade 5 titanium to the range and comes in five of the brand’s signature colorways. Among the lineup is even a fully luminescent Whitepearl dial. The Sub 300 dates back to 1967, when Doxa […] Visit The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 In Grade 5 Titanium Joins The Brand’s Regular Collection to read the full article.

First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39mm Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39mm

Girard-Perregaux writes the next chapter in the Laureato’s long and storied history. Launched in 1975, just three years after the Royal Oak and a year before the Nautilus, the Laureato is considered an honorary member of the luxury integrated sports watch genre. The Laureato underwent its fifth evolution in 2016, becoming a contemporary, fully-fledged luxury […]

First Look - The New Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The New Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture (Incl. Video)

Founded in 1988, Frederique Constant can now boast an impressive lineup of 35 in-house calibres powering the brand’s top-tier Manufacture pieces.  Redesigned and relaunched in 2020, the Highlife collection is Frederique Constant’s vision of a versatile luxury sports watch with a barrel-shaped case, an interchangeable integrated bracelet and a textured dial. Last year, the brand […]

First Look - The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, An Antiqua-Inspired Take on Ultra-Thin (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, An Antiqua-Inspired Take on Ultra-Thin (Incl. Video)

For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Italian brand Bulgari and independent watchmaker Vianney Halter joined forces to bring us one of the most distinctive interpretations of the Octo Finissimo to date. Seen at a glance, the influence of Halter is unmistakable. The multiple displays, hands, white opaline surfaces and porthole-like bezels recall the legendary Antiqua, developed […]

First Look - The Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport, The Time-Only High-Frequency El Primero (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport, The Time-Only High-Frequency El Primero (Incl. Video)

The Chronomaster Sport is one of Zenith’s most recognisable modern series, featuring a contemporary sports-watch case and, naturally, an El Primero chronograph movement. For 2026, however, Zenith takes an unexpected turn. The new Chronomaster Solo Sport removes the chronograph and debuts as a three-hand watch yet remains powered by one of the manufacture’s high-frequency El […]

Is It Great Enough For The Great Gonzo? Introducing The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition Fratello
Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition Sep 2, 2026

Is It Great Enough For The Great Gonzo? Introducing The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition

A character who, in his first television appearance, attempted to eat a rubber tire to the frantic tempo and tune of Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov’s “Flight of the Bumblebee” deserves a watch. On the night of April 25th, 1977, The Great Gonzo set the tone for future death-defying and bizarre stunts in The Muppet Show and continued […] Visit Is It Great Enough For The Great Gonzo? Introducing The Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition to read the full article.

A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport Sep 2, 2026

A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport

In 2021, Zenith introduced the Chronomaster Sport as its modern sports chronograph. The new series was widely discussed immediately after its release, and despite (or perhaps due to) its hotly debated Rolex Daytona-like aesthetic, it became a massive commercial success for the Le Locle-based brand. Over time, Zenith introduced several new versions that widened the […] Visit A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport to read the full article.

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold With Gilt Dial Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold With Gilt Dial

What We Know I'll come clean—I've been a bit more than mildly obsessed with the modern revival of Daniel Roth ever since I got to spend some time with the Daniel Roth Tourbillon in platinum last year. While that watch very much still reigns supreme for me in the lineup, Daniel Roth has just announced a new watch today that feels awfully close to unseating the Tourbillon's title for me. It's the new variation of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat in rose gold, but this time, it's with a black gilt dial. What's important to note is that this is a true gilt dial, not the often misconstrued sense of the word that many modern watches like to use for accents and markings printed in a gold tone. As I've covered on Hodinkee in the past, a real gilt dial is made by taking a base dial blank, printing a protective lacquer mask on what are typically the positive markings on a dial, and then galvanically coating the entire dial in black. The masked portions of the dial are protected from the coating, and after the lacquer is removed, the base metal underneath serves as the dial text. The dial of this Extra Plat starts as a dial blank of solid 5N rose gold, then is engine-turned by hand on a rose lathe to achieve the guillochage on the various sections of the dial in recognizably Daniel Roth style. Afterward, all the markings—Roman numerals, the Daniel Roth logo, dial number, etc.—are pad-printed with a pink varnish to protect them during the subsequent electroplating treatments. After th...