Revolution
Franck Muller’s Crazy Hours: “I Have Found A Way To Deconstruct And Restructure Time”
Franck Muller's Crazy Hours teaches us we are to be in the here and now, and to appreciate the present.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Worn & Wound
Everything You Need to Know About Sinn’s Latest Dive Watch Collection
There are several places you’d never find me-gas station bathrooms, water parks, and tiny airplanes come to mind-but perhaps the very last place I’d ever agree to set foot would be inside a submarine. Stuck inside a metal tube with the crushing weight of the ocean all around you? No thanks, I’ll stay on land. Still, it’s hard to deny the romance of the submarine, especially given that our ocean is still largely unexplored. Whether in scientific expeditions or military endeavours, the remarkable underwater vessel has long gripped the human imagination. With their latest U series of divers, Sinn is honoring a piece of that maritime history. In part a celebration of 20 years of the German brand using submarine steel in its diving watches, the U15, U16, and U15 each represent a different 1970s German submarine of matching name. The name isn’t just a superficial connection, though-each model of these new U series is limited to 1,000 pieces, and features a case and bezel constructed with submarine steel from the outer hull of the actual corresponding namesake submarine. What Sets the Models Apart? At first glance, each U diver looks very similar-they all share that satinized submarine steel case, a captive dive bezel with minute ratcheting, a screw-down crown at the 4 o’clock position, and a striking dark blue-green high-gloss dial with a stream of lighter blue bubbles down the center. But as the names suggest, each yields slightly different design elem...
SJX Watches
First Look: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon 38 mm
One of the less prominent, but arguably interesting, debuts for Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary is the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 38 mm in sand gold. A compact watch in muted, pale tones but discreetly glammed up with diamonds, the new tourbillon is the first instance of the ultra-thin cal. 2968 (also known as RD#3) appears something other than a Royal Oak. Initial thoughts The 38 mm tourbillon is the sort of watch that’s more interesting than it initially looks. Though it appears to be a ladies’ watch at first glance, largely due to the somewhat unattractive beige stitch-less strap, it is arguably a unisex watch in both size and style. I would have preferred limiting the diamonds to the case middle for a low-key, formal appearance, but even as it is the gem setting is quite modest. But the new tourbillon isn’t just an aesthetic exercise. The cal. 2968 inside is a nifty movement with some clever details that keep it exceedingly thin. The 38 mm case also demonstrates the Code 11.59 works well in a smaller format. This is especially useful since many iterations of the Code 11.59 feel a bit too large (though in some instances the thickness is a technical requirement). Image – Audemars Piguet RD#3 Entirely in the brand’s proprietary sand gold alloy – best described as a pleasantly washed-out red gold – the case measures 38 mm in diameter and 9.6 mm in thickness. It’s set with 235 brilliant-cut diamonds on the lugs, crown, ...
Monochrome
First Look – March LA.B’s New “Millesime March 2025” is a Compact AM2 Titanium GMT
Every year since 2020, to celebrate the month in which three close friends – Alain Marhic, Jérôme Mage and Joseph Châtel – founded March LA.B, a highly limited and “Millésimée” watch is revealed. This year, the AM2 Slim GMT Titanium “Millesime March 2025” Edition may be seen as a combination of styles and features of […]
Quill & Pad
How a Mechanical Watch Works with Simple to Understand Animations
In theory, a mechanical watch is very simple: it's 'simply' a spring (the mainspring) unwinding at a constant rate with hands attached to gears that rotate as the spring unwinds. Easy! Ian Skellern highly recommends anyone at all interested in mechanical watches to watch this video as it clearly highlights how a mechanical watch works.
Worn & Wound
Watch Travel and Storage Solutions – Shop Chat w/ Kat Shoulders
In our first ever Windup Watch Shop showroom “Shop Chat”, Devin Pennypacker and Kat Shoulders sit down to talk about some of their favorite watch travel and storage accessories from the shop. They each grabbed three of their favorite items that they find themselves using and talk through why they chose them. Check out the video along with all of their picks below. What is your go-to travel and storage option? In our first ever Windup Watch Shop showroom “Shop Chat”, Devin Pennypacker and Kat Shoulders sit down to talk about some of their favorite watch travel and storage accessories from the shop. They each grabbed three of their favorite items that they find themselves using and talk through why they chose them. Check out the video along with all of their picks below. What is your go-to travel and storage option? The post Watch Travel and Storage Solutions – Shop Chat w/ Kat Shoulders appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – A Selection of Enamel Watches Using Rare Techniques such as Cloisonné, Champlevé or Flinqué
Enameling is one of the oldest decorative techniques, invented over 4,000 years ago and used, for example, in Mesopotamia and then Egypt. Surprisingly enough, the earliest enamel all used the cloisonné technique, known to be one of the most complex techniques currently in use. Under the word enamel, at least in watchmaking and decorative techniques, […]
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue” Vs. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Purple
Is it Sunday already? Yes, it is, and we’ll make sure you have a good last day of the weekend with this week’s episode of Sunday Morning Showdown. Daan and Lex will go head to head with two colorful chronographs. In one corner, Daan represents the Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue,” which gives off […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue” Vs. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Purple to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Louis Erard Unveils Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu
The Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu is an example of the brand's commitment to blending tradition with modernity. This timepiece is part of the Noirmont Métiers d'Art collection and features a unique sector dial that pays homage to the 1930s while incorporating contemporary engraving techniques. The newest release comes in a blue dial with white strap.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: An Unusual Vintage Omax, a Pair of Bulovas, and a Classic King Seiko
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Croton Chronomaster The Croton Chronomaster is a classic vintage chronograph with an iconic name. Usually these are called Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver (like I said, iconic), but this iteration has been reduced for brevity’s sake to just the Chronomaster…still a great name. But it’s not just a cool name, this chunky 1970’s chronograph has the classic squarish steel case that looks unpolished but does have some wear from age/use. The aluminum dive bezel is in good shape with minimal wear. The black dial is clean and has a great layout with the dual subdials and date window at 6 o’clock giving it a nice symmetry. The Valjoux manual wind movement is clean and runs well per the seller. View auction here Vintage Bulova Ambassador Next up is this sweet vintage Bulova. The seller calls it an Ambassador, but to be honest I don’t recall seeing this model attached to that name. Either way, it’s a beauty. The slim white gold filled case is clean, with bold fancy lugs. The black dial looks original and is really clean. It has stylized Art Deco style numerals and a nice subseconds dial at 6 o’clock. The Bulova caliber 7AK manual wind movement is clean and works well pe...
Hodinkee
Happenings: HSNY Announces Lots for 2025 Charity Auction
Presented by Christie's at the 159th Anniversary Gala on March 22.
Deployant
New: Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Platinum Stone Blue
Ever noticed someone’s watch & instantly felt the "Old Money" vibe radiating from it? Presenting the Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor in Platinum Stone Blue.
SJX Watches
Unique Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Editions for Audemars Piguet’s 150th
The centrepiece of Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary is the ingenious perpetual calendar cal. 7138 (at least for now), but the most complicated of the commemorative editions is the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie. The anniversary line-up of striking watches is comprised of five unique grande sonnerie wristwatches: three have sapphire dials that reveal the intricate strikework, while the remaining pair are fitted with iridescent opal dials. The harlequin opal dial Initial thoughts Though criticised at launch, the Code 11.59 has evolved into a varied range of watches, some of which are notably appealing (some are still pretty boring unfortunately). The grande sonnerie falls into the appealing category. The mechanics of the grande sonnerie are exceptionally complicated, and because it is a Supersonnerie equipped with AP’s patented amplification construction, the grande sonnerie is incredibly loud. The volume of the chimes are loud, but not so much that they are harsh. In short, the acoustics are impressive. The sapphire dial in sand gold case The anniversary edition grande sonnerie are individually appealing, though the opal dials are more interesting due to the novelty of the material. That said, the grande sonnerie can be customised, so a buyer is not necessarily limited to the options available for the anniversary. If I wanted to spend this much on a grande sonnerie, I’d work on my own. The pinnacle of striking watches AP is one...
Deployant
New and Reviewed: Leica ZM 12 – why Leica’s watches are legit
We take a close look at the just released Leica ZM 12, and examine why it is a legitimate product from this famous camera maker.
Monochrome
Introducing – A new Limited Edition Citizen Series 8 / 831 Mechanical with a Crisp Ice Blue Dial
Long reserved for the Japan Domestic Market (the famous JDM watches), the Citizen Series 8 is the brand’s take on the sporty, characterful watches made for daily use. Sharply designed with a mix of boldness, resistance and a certain contemporary elegance, the collection was given some fresh air in 2021 and became available worldwide. Since […]
Worn & Wound
Ace Jewelers and echo/neutra Unveil their Averau 39 Moon Phase Noctilum Limited Edition
From their distinctive lower-case name to their cohesive brand aesthetics, echo/neutra has upheld a reputation of stylized simplicity since their founding in 2019. With the Averau 39 Moon Phase, released in 2022 as a follow-up to the original Averau field watch, the young Italian brand proved that they could introduce complications without sacrificing the clean design ethos they’ve since become known for. A “Big Moon” version with both black and white dial options would follow in 2024 and become arguably the brand’s most recognizable watch, due to its strikingly photo-realistic moon disc. For the new Averau 39 Moon Phase Noctilum, however, echo/neutra has plucked the traditional double-moon phase indication from the first Moon Phase model and given it a new minimalist look. A limited edition project joint-helmed by echo/neutra and Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam, the Noctilum emphasizes bold legibility-while the subdial at the 6 o’clock position remains, the realistically-textured moons have been replaced by contrasting black and luminous white alternatives. Continuing with the paring-down of design elements, the hands and 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock indices are the same matte black as the dial, but feature luminous white borders, creating an impressively emotive and legible “inverted lume” effect in dark conditions. Further deviating from the original, the Noctilum deletes the Arabic hour numerals and the “2649 MSLM” script between 7 and 8 o’clock. The r...
Monochrome
Introducing – Indie Brand Havid Nagan Releases its New and Elegant Classic One
Havid Nagan (from the Armenian word havidenagan, meaning eternal) is a relatively new name in the independent watchmaking scene and the brainchild of California-based entrepreneur Aren Bazerkanian. The brand started with the inaugural HN00 series, a cushion-shaped titanium watch with guilloché-like dials powered by Schwartz-Etienne micro-rotor movements. Then came the HN01 Lucine Moon Phase. Things […]
SJX Watches
First Look: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked
Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary debuts are centred on perpetual calendars (at least for now), marking the closing of one chapter and the opening of another. The ingenious new calibre 7138 perpetual calendar marks a definitive new chapter in the brand’s history, while the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked is the swan song for a storied cal. 2120 movement that Audemars Piguet (AP) has relied on for decades. Presented in titanium with a polished BMG bezel, the final edition perpetual calendar is inspired by the Royal Oak pocket watch ref. 25729. This pocket watch lends its sapphire-and-blue aesthetic to the anniversary perpetual calendar, although the pocket watch was ironically powered by a manual wind calibre (as pocket watches tend to be). The ref. 25729PT was a 20-piece limited edition with a matching platinum chain, made in 1992 for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Initial thoughts The anniversary edition marks the end of the cal. 5134/5135 (and the preceding cal. 2120/2800), the long-lived perpetual calendar movement that AP launched in 1978. While great in its time, the movement was dated and somewhat low-tech by modern standards. The retirement of the movement is well deserved, and it is certainly going out in style. At a distance the anniversary perpetual calendar is familiar, but up close it reveals details that make it a little bit more interesting than its peers. These include the blue ringed-sapphire dial, retro signatu...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s 270th Anniversary Exhibition: First Stop Abu Dhabi
The oldest continuously operating watchmaker, Vacheron Constantin marks its 270th anniversary in 2025. In honour of this milestone, the brand has inaugurated The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence, an exhibition dedicated to its history and timepieces. Divided into four chapters, the exhibition includes archival materials and exceptional timepieces, illustrating the brand’s impressive heritage and knowhow. Now on show in Abu Dhabi until April 15, The Quest will make its way to other countries around the world over the course of the year. The exhibition’s first section, “Beginning”, delves into the brand’s early years with rarely seen historical documents and objects. Notable milestones include the invention of the pantograph, which standardised watch components by improving tolerances, and the Kallista, a 1970s watches made from a one-kilogram gold ingot and adorned with 118 diamonds, and reputedly the most expensive watch in the world at the time. The second chapter, “Artistic Crafts and Finishing,” highlights the brand’s watchmaking and craftsmanship, including engraving, enamelling, gem-setting, and guillochage. The “High Watchmaking” chapter invites visitors to explore the intricate craftsmanship behind the brand’s most complex movements with displays that magnify the tiny components of a movement. Most notably is a set of six sliding glass panels showcasing the 2,877 individual parts and 63 complications of the most complex watch ever, the Be...
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Clear Your Calendar: Acquired's Epic Five-Hour History Of Rolex Has Arrived
The number one business podcast delivers the definitive story of one of watchmaking's – or the world's – most iconic brands.
Fratello
Up Close With Elvis Presley’s Omega Watch
Elvis Presley was known to have a soft spot for nice watches. In 2018, Presley’s Omega dress watch, made of white gold and with 44 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, was auctioned for US$1.8 million. The watch ended up in the Omega Museum in Biel, Switzerland. Elvis Presley’s Omega watch During my last visit to […] Visit Up Close With Elvis Presley’s Omega Watch to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Globe Night Blue
A new interpretation of the Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Globe Night Blue, with a new enamel dial. Details and commentary within.
Monochrome
First Look – A New AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic with a Méga Tapisserie Dial
About two years ago, Audemars Piguet released an absolutely stunning watch, the black ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph, a.k.a the Black Beast. A monochromatic and high-tech take on one of the most important watches of the brand – at least in modern days – this watch merged the classic look of the 1993 ROO with […]
SJX Watches
Explained: Audemars Piguet’s Revolutionary Perpetual Calendar Cal. 7138
Audemars Piguet kicks off its 150th anniversary in a big way with an all-new perpetual calendar movement, the Audemars Piguet Calibre 7138. Making its debut in both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak, the cal. 7138 is a landmark in traditional perpetual calendars. In fact, the movement is perhaps the most sophisticated and user-friendly perpetual calendar from an establishment brand. The calendar relies on the classic “grand lever” mechanism that’s been reinvented in an ultra-thin manner, but more importantly, the cal. 7138 employs an ingenious and innovative setting mechanism. Consequently, it is impressively intuitive and also foolproof. All the calendar indications are set via the crown, and the movement can’t be broken by setting it at the wrong time. Together, these features mark the cal. 7138 out as one of the most notable perpetual calendar movements on the market today. The cal. 7138 debuts in the Code 11.59 (left) and Royal Oak. Image – Audemars Piguet Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar has long been a key part of the history of Audemars Piguet (AP), especially after the bestselling ref. 5548 was launched in 1978. So a brand-new perpetual calendar for its 150th anniversary is fitting. At the same time, the calibre illustrates AP’s tremendous advances as a vertically integrated, industrial-haute horlogerie manufacture that has developed an splendid stable of in-house calibres in a relatively short period of time. The irony is that the cal. 7138 is almost...
Fratello
Introducing All Of Audemars Piguet’s First-Semester Novelties For 2025: New Perpetual Calendars, Ceramic Offshore Variants, And Three Code 11.59 Models
Do you like themed parties? I’m not a huge fan but, as they say, different strokes for different folks. Audemars Piguet celebrates its 150th anniversary this year, and although such a monumental moment in the brand’s history could well do without a theme, there is one. The theme “AP” picked and explored is ergonomics. It […] Visit Introducing All Of Audemars Piguet’s First-Semester Novelties For 2025: New Perpetual Calendars, Ceramic Offshore Variants, And Three Code 11.59 Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
New Shades for Nomos’ Affordable Club Campus
Nomos has just introduced four new references to its line of entry-level watches conceived for fresh graduates, the Club Campus Starlight and Night Sky. The new releases are set apart by the bold colours - blue or yellow - for the “California” dial combines Arabic and Roman numerals. Each is offered in the customary sizes for the line, 36 mm and 38.5 mm, and retain the no-frills closed case back with 100 m water resistance. Initial thoughts Appreciated for its value proposition watches with solid in-house movements, Nomos has recently suffered from a lack of novelty. Indeed, the new Club Campus models differ only in dial colours from their predecessors. But the watches are still have appeal, particularly the entry-level models like the Club Campus; some of the high-end models are arguably too pricey for a competitive segment. In short, the Club Campus is compelling value proposition, thanks to its accessible price and the basic but appealing Alpha calibre. Vibrant colours Sharing the same dimensions and overall design as its predecessors, the new pair is set apart by its vivid dial colours. Available in Starlight and Nightsky configurations, this model prominently features a small seconds display with a bold orange second hand that contrasts against the dial. Driving the watch is the Alpha movement, a manual-winding calibre based on the Peseux 7001 architecture but heavily reworked, dressed up, and now made in-house by Nomos. It delivers a 43-hour power reserve an...
Fratello
Yema Introduces Its Superman Swiss Edition To Mark A Strategic Turnaround
We know Yema as an accessible French brand that offers fairly affordable watches. However, with the introduction of the company’s in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau movements, its prices shifted upward a bit. To ensure that the watchmakers have enough time to work on the higher-end in-house movements and still offer watches at a more affordable price […] Visit Yema Introduces Its Superman Swiss Edition To Mark A Strategic Turnaround to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Ba111od Chapter 7 -their first officially certified chronometer
Ba111od, ever the disruptor has released their Chapter 7, now with their first chronometer-certified by Observatoire Chronométrique de Genève.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Cartier Tank Américaine “Art Deco”
Launched quietly last year as limited production runs of the standard model, the Tank Américaine “Art Deco” gives a striking new look to a familiar model that was first introduced in 1989. Though the Art Deco-style dial is mostly associated with the low-cost (and low-end) Tank Must de Cartier, it has been artfully applied to the Américaine with varying surface finishing and thoughtful details. The result is a Tank Américaine that looks radically different from the standard model, while being priced the same. Initial thoughts The Tank Américaine was conceived as a modern take on the Tank Cintrée, but because of its wider availability, numerous variants, and comparatively affordable pricing, the Américaine has become something of a poor cousin in the eyes of enthusiasts. The new variants of the Tank Américaine, however, are clearly trying to change that. They look and feel more upscale with the “Art Deco” dials that do away with the central seconds, which are long standard for automatic versions of the Tank Américaine. The yellow gold version Both are identical in dimensions. The case is a little wider and thicker than the Cintrée, so it’s not quite as elegant. And the 1899 MC movement inside is in-house but industrial and not as sophisticated as the manual-wind calibres (that are either Piaget or Jaeger-LeCoultre) in the Cintrée. But the Américaine “Art Deco” is more affordable, with the yellow gold version priced a little over US$16,000. The “Art...
Fratello
Hands-On With Five Vintage-Inspired Forstner Bracelets
Forstner has made a name for itself as the go-to brand for aftermarket vintage-inspired bracelets. The revived company, which has roots in the 1920s, has quickly expanded its collection over the past few years. We have reviewed quite a few of the brand’s bracelets as well. What has always stood out is how much fun […] Visit Hands-On With Five Vintage-Inspired Forstner Bracelets to read the full article.