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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Best Watches For Kids: Fun And Practical Picks For All Ages Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 27, 2026

Best Watches For Kids: Fun And Practical Picks For All Ages

While I’m sure the internet primarily knows me as a watch writer/teeny tiny watch enthusiast, a lesser-known fact about me is that I used to teach English abroad in the first couple of years after I graduated from college. I might not have kids myself, but I do think this experience makes me uniquely qualified to scour the internet for the best kids' watches available today, and synthesize them into an easily digestible guide for those who want to share their love of watches with a young one in their life. From back in my classroom days, I know that durability and practicality are essential ingredients to a great watch for kids. I’ll also be going for a broad stylistic range, from the fun and playful to the more sophisticated, to account for both elementary school-age kids and those entering their tween years. Additionally, it does not strike me as wise to invest major cash into a child’s first watch, unless you are getting one early to then gift it to them at a more appropriate age, so I’ve also gone for the affordability factor as well.  [toc-section heading="Timex Time Machines"] In my opinion, Timex currently has one of the most impressive ranges of kids' watches, making pieces geared towards pre-schoolers all the way to tweens and teens. Dubbed the Time Machines collection by the brand, a huge drawis that all the brand’s kids’ watches come with a replacement program in case your little one happens to break or lose their new watch. Additionally, the highes...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer II Alternatives In 2026 Fratello
Rolex Explorer II Alternatives Feb 27, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer II Alternatives In 2026

Another Friday, another list. This week, we follow up on last week’s list of the top five Rolex GMT-Master II alternatives with the best alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II. It’s a logical step since the two models offer much of the same functionality. But they are inherently different watches in terms of presence and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer II Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.

Introducing: Three New Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Watches With Tuxedo Dials Fratello
Audemars Piguet winning Feb 27, 2026

Introducing: Three New Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Watches With Tuxedo Dials

Three years ago, the Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Small Seconds timepiece won the GPHG 2023 Challenge Watch Prize. That was a bigger surprise to most watch fans than Audemars Piguet winning the Grand Prix for the Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4. Since that award-winning watch, many variations have debuted. And truth be told, they all […] Visit Introducing: Three New Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Watches With Tuxedo Dials to read the full article.

Hands On: Breguet Expérimentale 1 SJX Watches
Breguet Expérimentale 1 Feb 27, 2026

Hands On: Breguet Expérimentale 1

The Expérimentale 1 debuted last year as the capstone to the first quarter-millennium of the house of Breguet. We attended the launch event and shared immediate hands-on impressions, but watches like this don’t come along every day, or even every year, so it’s worth a fresh look now that some time has passed and the dust has settled. On paper, the Expérimentale 1 arguably represents the highest form of the mechanical watch. To understand the technical details of what makes the watch so groundbreaking, this in-depth analysis should be considered required reading. In short, the cal. 7250 housed within introduces the first-ever contactless mechanical escapement that simultaneously achieves two feats that Abraham-Louis Breguet himself toiled to accomplish throughout his entire career, namely, an oil-free escapement and stable amplitude. The Expérimentale 1 delivers both, and more. That said, as a wristwatch the Expérimentale 1 is tantalisingly imperfect owing to its polarising design. In fairness, this arguably says more about the difficultly of communicating technical breakthroughs to a non-technical public than it does about the design process at Breguet. It could also be the result of Breguet learning lessons from its own past. A modern (Marine) chronometer The Expérimentale 1 is most notable for its novel escapement and what it signals about the future direction of the brand, but it’s also worth analysing the updated Marine-style case, which is the most challeng...

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Review Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Feb 26, 2026

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Review

In 2017, IWC introduced a proprietary alloy called Ceratanium, or ceramized titanium, a hard, lightweight material that combined the best of ceramic and titanium. Oh, and it happened to look pretty cool as well. The material has been used sparingly in the intervening years, largely appearing across the brand’s sport-watch portfolio, from the Pilot to the Aquatimer collections. This week, Ceratanium is making its first appearance in the Portugieser collection with a new, limited-edition 41mm chronograph featuring a Ceratanium case affixed to a black rubber strap. In an effort to drive the point home, the rest of the watch is fully murdered out making the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium a decidedly sporty take on this otherwise dressier collection. [toc-section heading="What's New"] The new watch is the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it turns the classic chronograph layout on its head by rendering every detail in shades of black (insert Henry Ford quote here). The Portugieser is a historic watch with roots that date back to the late 1930s, and its modern aesthetic is largely referential to that history. That underlying design remains intact here, with a large, open dial hosting Arabic numerals at each hour, and a set of leaf hands tracking the time against them. The two subdials are arranged vertically, retaining a symmetric layout that recalls the original time-only references that had subsidiary seconds located at 6 o’clock.  Using Ceratanium (which ha...

Raymond Weil’s Well-Dressed Millesime “Tuxedo” SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Feb 26, 2026

Raymond Weil’s Well-Dressed Millesime “Tuxedo”

An eighties icon that is finding fresh footing, Raymond Weil has extended its GPHG-winning dress watch collection with the Millesime Small Seconds 39 mm “Tuxedo”. Available in three appealing colourways, the Millesime features Art Deco-inspired typography that brings a surprising degree of energy to the line-up’s familiar sector-style dial. Initial thoughts Raymond Weil was one of the biggest names in Swiss watchmaking in the 1980s and 1990s. Raymond Weil himself was one of the first entrepreneurs to see a future for mechanical watchmaking amidst the rubble of the quartz crisis, launching his eponymous brand in 1976. While peak production is in the past, the brand seems to have rebounded with a collection of well-received dress watches and savvy limited editions. The new Millesime Small Seconds embodies the carefully considered details that have underpinned the brand’s recent resurgence. It’s not revolutionary by any means, but at just US$2,295 it offers an affordable entry point to the world of Swiss dress watches. Affordability is one thing, but appeal is another. Fortunately the 39 mm Millesime hits many of the right notes in each of the three colourways, including a so-called ‘tuxedo’ configuration in either classic back and white or on-trend burgundy, as well as a dark blue option that might be the dark horse favourite. Art Deco trio All three models have a few key things in common, starting with the stainless steel case. The Millesime measures 39 mm in ...

Fratello Talks: Is Heritage Overused And Overrated? Fratello
Feb 26, 2026

Fratello Talks: Is Heritage Overused And Overrated?

These days, “heritage” might be the most overused word in watch marketing. Every other press release seems to reference archives, vintage inspiration, or a glorious past. But at what point does heritage become a crutch rather than a strength? In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, Daan, and Thomas unpack the role heritage plays in […] Visit Fratello Talks: Is Heritage Overused And Overrated? to read the full article.

In-Depth: Orient Star’s Smart Silicon Escape Wheel SJX Watches
Seiko Epson’s massive industrial base Feb 26, 2026

In-Depth: Orient Star’s Smart Silicon Escape Wheel

While silicon mechanical movement components have swept across Switzerland, adoption has been slow within the Japanese watch industry, stymied by Swiss patents and professed concerns over the material’s durability. To this day, it remains the unlikely domain of Orient Star, a small brand with priority access to Seiko Epson’s massive industrial base. This positions Orient Star to capitalise on consumer demand for increasingly long power reserves, without sacrificing performance. Thanks to an ultralight and geometrically efficient escape wheel with a patented design, Orient Star is able to deliver a 70-hour power reserve without resorting the same counter-productive trade-offs to balance energy made by some Swiss peers – here’s how it was done. A silicon wafer of escape wheels. Image – Seiko Epson The quest for longer power reserves Recent consumer demand for longer power reserves has sent the industry’s engineers scrambling for ways to increase the autonomy of existing movement platforms. A movement’s power reserve is dictated by the length of the mainspring, which unwinds at a constant rate. That is why using a chronograph doesn’t cause a watch to run down faster – usually. Of course, you need to find somewhere to fit that extra length of mainspring while maintaining the movement’s dimensions, such as by thinning out the barrel walls, narrowing the inner barrel arbour radius, or, reducing the thickness of the mainspring. However, while decreasing the ma...

New York’s Hold on Pizza, Once Considered Unassailable, Is Now Being Questioned – From Australia and Britain Worn & Wound
Feb 25, 2026

New York’s Hold on Pizza, Once Considered Unassailable, Is Now Being Questioned – From Australia and Britain

I’m going to say something quite controversial here, dear Reader, and tell you that I think pizza, in general, is just okay. I’ve had Neapolitan-style in Naples and Chicago-style in Chicago, and even Altoona-style in Altoona (for the unfamiliar, it’s got green peppers and American cheese on it and is disgusting). I’ve just never been especially impressed. With pepperoni or without, deep-dish or thin-crusted, it’s all the same to me. I mean, I like pizza, but I’m not one of those performative yuppies who sit behind their keyboard (okay, I am right now, but that’s because I’m getting paid to be) and tell you about the virtues of this type of tomato and that type of dough and the purity of ingredients and how pineapple on pizza isn’t real pizza and blah, blah, blah. Like I said, it’s not that I don’t like pizza. I just don’t think it’s anything to get worked up about. To me, it’s in the same category as Jacob Elordi or any organized religion: I have no strong opinions either way, I just don’t need to be told why it’s great all the time. Perhaps this is why I was dubious at first glance about the return of two pizza-inspired watches by Studio Underd0g and Time+Tide: the Burnt Pepper0ni and the Classic Cheese. Following the first pair of pizza watches released in 2024, this new iteration builds on that cult following with updated designs that lean into the theme without losing the brand language that has come to define Studio Underd0g. First, the...

Vaer Watches Review: American-Assembled with GADA Specs Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 24, 2026

Vaer Watches Review: American-Assembled with GADA Specs

Most people think that getting into "real" watches requires a heavy-duty investment or a deep knowledge of Swiss history. In reality, enjoying horology shouldn't require a trust fund or a PhD in movement calibers. But for a long time, the market felt split between cheap, disposable plastic watches and unattainable luxury pieces. There was simply no middle ground for a high-spec timepiece that you weren't afraid to use. It was exactly this dilemma that became the driving force behind California-based watchmaker, Vaer. The two ends of the watch-collecting scope left a huge gap for anyone who just wanted an affordable daily beater that could hold up during a weekend hike or a daily commute. So, Vaer pledged to fill that gap.  [toc-section heading="The Gamble – Why Vaer Exists"] VAER founders Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook Watch collecting can be an expensive hobby. In the world of horology, $10,000 is the type of money that secures a stainless steel Rolex Sub and a lifetime of brand prestige. For most young professionals with a passion for watches, saving up that first ten grand is a rite of passage. But for Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook, founders of Vaer watches, that money represented a fork in the road. When the two entrepreneurs looked at their savings, they could have gone one of two ways: walk into a boutique and leave with a trophy on their wrist, or bet every cent on a dream to build the "perfect" everyday watch that didn't yet exist. They chose the latter. C5 Field Bla...

Windup Watch Fair Dallas: Everything You Need to Know Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Christopher Ward’s C63 Sealander Feb 24, 2026

Windup Watch Fair Dallas: Everything You Need to Know

The countdown to Windup Watch Fair Dallas is on, and we’re excited to introduce you to the Lead Sponsors, and their featured watches, that are bringing this event to life. As the premier gathering for watch enthusiasts, collectors, and those new to the hobby, the Windup Watch Fair is the best way to go hands-on with unique watches from around the world. We’re thrilled to return to Dallas for the second year in a row. Here are the critical details: Hickory Street Annex 501 S Second Ave #200, Dallas, TX 75226 Friday, March 13: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, March 14: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, March 15: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to everyone No registration necessary Free parking available This year, we’re thrilled to welcome a fantastic lineup of presenting brands who share our passion for timepieces and support the watch community. The Windup Watch Fair wouldn’t be possible without the generous support of our valued Lead Sponsors, who help make the event a truly special experience: Christopher Ward Christopher Ward’s C63 Sealander Extreme GMT will be on full display in Dallas. Its indexes and hands are sculpted from Globolight® luminous ceramic for high-visibility timekeeping after dark, while GMT functionality is powered by the Sellita SW330-2 movement and protected by an ingenious anti-shock system. A textured matte dial, sandblasted ceramic bezel, and 41mm brushed steel case give the watch a rugged, purposeful look, making it the ultimate go-anywhere companion. It’s avai...

Zodiac and GiantMouse Collaborate on a Unique Super Sea Wolf and Dive Knife Set Worn & Wound
Zodiac Feb 24, 2026

Zodiac and GiantMouse Collaborate on a Unique Super Sea Wolf and Dive Knife Set

We’ve discussed the connection between watches and knives at length in these pages, and I think at this point it’s pretty clear why the overlap between knife and EDC enthusiasts and watch collectors is so strong. There’s a clear shared interest in well made things between both communities, and a sense that the tools you carry with you and wear matter in a way that’s both practical and sentimental. Given all that, it’s perhaps a little surprising that we don’t see more releases like this collaboration between Zodiac and GiantMouse Knives, which seeks to make that connection explicit rather than simply implied.  The GiantMouse x Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Watch and Dive Knife set consists of, well, a Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro Diver and a dive knife created by GiantMouse for this specific release. The origin of the collaboration rests with GiantMouse founder Jim Worth, who connected with the Zodiac team at a Windup Watch Fair event, where the seeds of a collaborative project were planted. If you’ve had a chance to talk to Jim at a Windup event or elsewhere, you know that he’s not just playing a watch guy at our shows – he’s a true enthusiast. He’s particularly interested in vintage dive and sports watches, and a vintage Zodiac in a similar color way provided the inspiration for this release.  We’ll start with the watch. The Super Sea Wolf Pro Diver is a 42mm stainless steel diver with 300 meters of water resistance, and this edition features a black dial,...

Editorial: When Your Wrist Gets Smaller, Your Watches Change Too Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay Feb 24, 2026

Editorial: When Your Wrist Gets Smaller, Your Watches Change Too

A few weeks ago I decided to wear my Tudor Black Bay for the first time in several months. It’s a watch I love that I’ve written about many times on this website, but I’d been enjoying other more recently acquired pieces for some time and the Black Bay had been collecting proverbial dust in the watch box. So on a chilly winter afternoon I wound it up and set the time. But then, instead of closing the bracelet around my wrist and going about my business, I hauled out my little set of watchmaking tools to size the bracelet. Because the actual reason I hadn’t worn it in so long wasn’t entirely a result of being in the honeymoon phase with other watches, it was knowing I had a small chore in front of me if I didn’t want the watch to dangle pathetically from my wrist, and for a while it just seemed easier to ignore it.  Over the last year, in an effort to become healthier and, you know, live longer, I’ve lost a significant amount of weight, and it’s had a dramatic effect on how my watches wear, and how I think about them. I’d been putting off an afternoon of resizing all of my watch bracelets in part because I was nervous that once I had my 41mm Black Bay on my now half inch smaller wrist, it would disappoint somehow. I gravitated toward smaller watches all summer and fall of last year as the shape of my body began to noticeably change, wearing my larger watches more sparingly and over shorter stretches of time.  The author’s Black Bay on his 7.5 wrist, Oc...

SJX Podcast: Jumping on Trends SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Feb 24, 2026

SJX Podcast: Jumping on Trends

On episode 30 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss to what extent the latest crop of jump hour watches constitutes a trend. In just the first six weeks of 2026, several new jump hour models have been released, including a new collection from Audemars Piguet and the relaunch of the Niton brand, which is discussed in detail. Even the Louis Vuitton Convergence also fits into this trend aesthetically, despite being a dragging hours construction. SJX also provides context on the leading jump hour watches in the industry, including the Zeitwerk, Vagabondage III, and Opus 3, and the latest from Berneron. SJX also shares views on whether reliability still matters in today’s market. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.