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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Industry News – Swiss Watch Exports Down 1.7% to CHF 25.5 billion in 2025, Uncertain Outlook for 2026 Monochrome
Jan 29, 2026

Industry News – Swiss Watch Exports Down 1.7% to CHF 25.5 billion in 2025, Uncertain Outlook for 2026

The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FHS) has just released its export statistics for 2025. December ended the year on a positive note with exports up 3.3% after four consecutive months of sharp decline. For the entire year 2025, the Swiss watch industry exports recorded a decrease of 1.7% compared to 2024. Following several years […]

Fratello Talks: Why We Chose Analog Watches In A Digital World Fratello
Jan 29, 2026

Fratello Talks: Why We Chose Analog Watches In A Digital World

Why do we choose analog watches in a digital world? It’s a valid question, as these mechanical timekeepers (though still functional) are no longer the necessity they once were. Why, then, do they remain not just an obsession for the few but also relevant and ever-present objects in people’s private lives and even pop culture? […] Visit Fratello Talks: Why We Chose Analog Watches In A Digital World to read the full article.

Atelier Wen Introduces a New Perception with a Rare Natural Pietersite Dial Worn & Wound
Rolex makes watches Jan 28, 2026

Atelier Wen Introduces a New Perception with a Rare Natural Pietersite Dial

Last year, Atelier Wen released one of my favorite watches of the year in the Inflection, a bold and ambitious integrated bracelet sports watch in tantalum. The reaction to that watch, to my mind, was puzzling. While there were certainly many supporters and admirers of the Inflection, there was also a vocal contingent of enthusiasts on Instagram and various watch blog comment sections (who, to be fair, were probably not customers for this particular watch anyway) griping about the price, and the fact that a brand centered on value and approachability would even make a watch like this (the retail price is just shy of $30,000).  I’ve never cared much for the notion that a brand that makes affordable watches can’t also make watches that are very, very expensive. It’s all relative anyway, right? Rolex makes watches that are considered entry points to the brand at right around $10,000, but they also have watches in their catalog that sail into the six figures. That’s a pretty big delta, certainly larger than the one between Atelier Wen’s entry level pieces and the Inflection. But that’s a topic for another day. Today, we’re focusing on Atelier Wen returning their bread and butter, the Perception, an integrated bracelet sports watch they’ve been iterating on for several years now, this one in steel with a natural pietersite dial.  It’s tempting to say that this watch represents Atelier Wen jumping on the stone dial trend, but the pietersite of it all changes ...

Eighties Luxe: Piaget Polo 79 Two-Tone SJX Watches
Piaget Polo 79 Two-Tone Having Jan 28, 2026

Eighties Luxe: Piaget Polo 79 Two-Tone

Having already launched it in yellow gold and then white gold, Piaget has logically followed up with the Polo 79 Two-Tone. While very much predictable, the Polo 79 Two-Tone is arguably the best looking of the trio with its retro combination of metals that are yellow and white gold, and not steel. The new Polo 79 is otherwise identical to its predecessors, right down to the cal. 1200P movement and “slotted” construction of the case and bracelet. Initial thoughts The Polo 79 Two-Tone isn’t a surprise but it’s a good looking watch that has more appeal than its single-colour counterparts. The combination of yellow and white gold feels distinctly 1980s and true to the spirit of the watch. Though not imaginative, the Polo 79 is solidly executed in any of its forms. The case and bracelet are done well, while the cal. 1200P is a tried-and-tested workhorse that is also impressively thin; it’s a little industrial but acceptable overall. The cal. 1200P The fact that the two-tone model is two colours of gold, rather than steel and gold, is a nice touch. But that means it is expensive, even more expensive than the single-tone versions that are already pricey. This costs US$91,000, while the yellow gold model is US$77,000. The price premium doesn’t really make sense since it’s essentially the same thing in terms of gold value and finishing (though it is arguable that white gold costs a little more than yellow). The Polo 79 line-up Polo glamour The two-tone Polo is hardly a...

Mermont’s La Parfaite Goes Platinum SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Mr Delaloye personally Jan 28, 2026

Mermont’s La Parfaite Goes Platinum

Startup independent brand Mermont has just made its public debut with the heavyweight La Parfaite, translating as “perfect one” in French. Assembled and adjusted by independent watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, La Parfaite is among the most affordable platinum watches on the market, despite its contemporary case size and upscale construction. Initial thoughts At first glance, Mermont’s debut watch could pass for a handsome, stainless steel Breguet Souscription homage, probably priced accordingly. However, La Parfaite is not stainless steel, it is (mostly) platinum – and surprisingly affordable. Sebastien Bey-Haut, a watch and photography enthusiast, founded the brand, enlisting none other than Nicolas Delaloye, a Genevan watchmaker and AHCI member, to bring it to life. Though less commercially successful than some of his peers, Mr Delaloye is a respected independent watchmaker who spent eight years with the Patek Philippe Museum. Mr Delaloye personally polishes the single hour hand, performs final adjustment, and cases up the watches. It’s unusual for an upstart brand to debut with a precious metal watch, but that’s exactly what Mermont has done. But that hasn’t stopped the brand from focusing on the value proposition, pricing the La Parfaite well below industry norms for a platinum watch, especially a full size mechanical watch. Priced at CHF10,998 before taxes, La Parfaite is a full 38 mm in diameter and certainly among the least expensive mechanical platinum wa...

Industry News – LVMH Sales Down 5% in 2025, Good Resilience of Watches & Jewelry Division Monochrome
Jan 27, 2026

Industry News – LVMH Sales Down 5% in 2025, Good Resilience of Watches & Jewelry Division

There’s no denying that we’re currently facing a global decline in the luxury goods demand, with sales affected by uncertainties in China, the undeniable effect of US tariffs on exports to the region and several conflicts around the world. Last year, despite this challenging environment, powerhouse LVMH, the world’s largest luxury conglomerate, reported a moderate […]

Back To Basics: Expert Advice For Novice Watch Enthusiasts Fratello
Jan 27, 2026

Back To Basics: Expert Advice For Novice Watch Enthusiasts

Welcome to another instalment of Back To Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to our lovely shared passion. This installment does not cover one specific theme. The aim is rather to provide novice watch enthusiasts with some broadly applicable tips and mindset advice. Where do you start? How do you start? What mistakes can we […] Visit Back To Basics: Expert Advice For Novice Watch Enthusiasts to read the full article.

Face Value: Why Painting on Watch Dials is Art SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Masterpiece Jan 27, 2026

Face Value: Why Painting on Watch Dials is Art

Fine watches have pulled double duty as decorative objects since before the invention of the hairspring in 1675. In this sense, one could almost argue that watches have been linked to art since before they were even watches in the modern sense. This relationship emerged early in part because both types of objects were made primarily for the same clientele: wealthy elite in Europe and elsewhere. Though art and watches exist for different reasons, they are both often created with eternity in mind. The noble materials and timeless designs of many fine watches, especially those of the quality that would normally be paired with a work of art, also help justify the painstaking (and costly) work of artisanal decoration, which can, in some cases, take more than a year for a single work of miniature art. Introduction to miniature painting Of all the forms of decoration that have been applied to watches, miniature paintings are an especially important genre. Historically, these miniature masterpieces have been produced primarily in enamel, though acrylic paint is increasingly used today. Much has been written about the art of miniature painting, and it would not be an exaggeration to call it a dying art, since the number of living practitioners seems to have rarely exceeded half a dozen at any given time over the past century. Vacheron Constantin’s Masterpiece on Your Wrist programme is a partnership with the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York that allows customers to commissi...

Introducing – Tissot Adds Two Fresh New Colours to its PR516 38mm Powermatic 80 Monochrome
Tissot Adds Two Fresh New Jan 26, 2026

Introducing – Tissot Adds Two Fresh New Colours to its PR516 38mm Powermatic 80

Far from being a recently-introduced collection, Tissot’s PR516 represents the brand’s racing-oriented option. First seen in 1956 with the PR letters originally denoting Particulièrement Robustes, the collection underwent a remarkable transformation in 1965 to become what we know today. As time progressed, the PR516 underwent various iterations, and came back in great shape in 2024 […]

Hands-On With Qian GuoBiao’s Split-Seconds Chronograph Fratello
Jan 26, 2026

Hands-On With Qian GuoBiao’s Split-Seconds Chronograph

This was the first time I had ever seen one of Qian GuoBiao’s watches in real life. I’d never seen one at watch shows, quickly behind glass, or even in a passing moment at a collector event. I’ve long admired Master Qian’s watches through my laptop screen, but this encounter with his Split-Seconds Chronograph was […] Visit Hands-On With Qian GuoBiao’s Split-Seconds Chronograph to read the full article.

Introducing – Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao Launches a Split-Seconds Chronograph Monochrome
Jan 26, 2026

Introducing – Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao Launches a Split-Seconds Chronograph

Independent watchmaker Qian GuoBiao continues to expand the horizons and appreciation of indie horology from China, building on the foundations laid by earlier pieces like the Facing the Sky 2.0 and Double Balance Wheel. His latest creation, the Split-Seconds Chronograph, is another step forward. While the Double Balance Wheel explored harmony through the synchrony of […]