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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

My Year in Watches: Defining “Affordable Watch Collector” Worn & Wound
Seiko 6139-6002 Pogue I couldn’t Dec 20, 2024

My Year in Watches: Defining “Affordable Watch Collector”

My original idea when I was asked to contribute to this series was to focus on my favorite watch acquisitions of the year, explain why they’re noteworthy, and describe my thought process behind purchasing or trading for each. While I was writing about my Universal Geneve Ref. 842116 Tank and Seiko 6139-6002 Pogue, I couldn’t help but notice how far my collection has come over the last year or so. Since the purchase of my first wristwatch in 2012, it’s always been my goal to cultivate watch boxes filled with both timeless classics and rare oddities. Looking at my collection as this year concludes, I’m proud to say I’ve never changed this philosophy. It was with this realization that my plans for this article began to transform into a conversation about watch collecting identity. While 2024 has been quite the successful year for my collection and I, it’s also the year that I went from being an affordable watch collector to being …an affordable watch collector.  You see, the watch collecting hobby is filled with subjective terminology. Words and phrases like “rare,” “new old stock,” “like-new old stock,” “budget-friendly,” and of course “affordable” frequently see usage on online auction platforms, social media, forums, and advertisements. While these are often used as buzzwords for sellers wanting their post to be boosted in search algorithms or by collectors wanting to flaunt their new purchase, I’ve always been fascinated by how pliable...

Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Watches Of 2024 - Featuring Seiko, Echo/Neutra, Nodus, And More Fratello
Seiko Echo/Neutra Nodus Dec 20, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Watches Of 2024 - Featuring Seiko, Echo/Neutra, Nodus, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we continue our series of best-of-the-year lists with our favorite affordable watches of 2024. This has been a great year for fans of affordable watches, with tons of releases over the last 12 months. We have seen many well-executed affordable tool watches over the past couple of years, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Watches Of 2024 - Featuring Seiko, Echo/Neutra, Nodus, And More to read the full article.

My Year in Watches: ‘Cause You Only Turn 40 Once Worn & Wound
Dec 19, 2024

My Year in Watches: ‘Cause You Only Turn 40 Once

At the end of last year, we made “resolutions,” and while I forgot we had done that until writing this post, I stayed pretty true to what I had said. I wanted to consolidate, focus, and potentially go big on a watch for my 40th birthday. I had to do the first to make the last part come true, and the second just kind of happened naturally. My tastes have changed quite a bit over the last two years, perhaps starting with the Bel Canto (shameless review plug). As such, I find myself drawn to a specific type of indie watch more and more, and frankly, I find most releases from large brands kind of boring. While that might be more of a “it’s not you, it’s me” kind of thing, I don’t see it changing anytime soon. But, back to my birthday, turning 40 was something I ignored until it was upon me. I’m not a big birthday celebration guy, but 40 felt different; it’s a bit of a terrifying number, thus it needed to be marked meaningfully. And, well, I can’t turn down a good opportunity to horologically spoil myself. However, to go big, I had to let several things go. While I’ll avoid the details, all said and done, I sold six watches and traded one, though in fairness, not all before making my purchase (you know how it is). I went down a rabbit hole of options, obsessing, as I tend to do, to such an extent that I even dreamed about scrolling Chrono24. Custom pieces, indies, vintage, big Swiss, maybe nothing; I pondered them all, even creating renders of potential be...

Fratello Talks: Non-Swiss Watch Brands That We Love Fratello
Dec 19, 2024

Fratello Talks: Non-Swiss Watch Brands That We Love

Welcome back to Fratello Talks. Everyone knows Switzerland is home to some of the world’s greatest and most renowned watch brands. But plenty of brands outside the Alpine region - and even outside Europe - produce high-end mechanical timepieces that can stand shoulder to shoulder with their Swiss contemporaries. Some of these non-Swiss brands have […] Visit Fratello Talks: Non-Swiss Watch Brands That We Love to read the full article.

Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Dec 18, 2024

Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Review

The FXD is a watch that gets under your skin. Since Tudor introduced this strange offshoot of the Pelagos collection at the end of 2021, it’s turned into something of a fan favorite, and while it’s not without its detractors, Tudor has steadily fleshed out the concept into a full fledged collection. The newest member of that collection, the FXD GMT, is arguably the most versatile of the bunch, delivering on an often-requested feature set without compromising the size of the case. On paper, the FXD GMT is the full package, but practical chops are only half the story when it comes to the ultimate charm of this watch. On personality, the latest FXD has some ground to cover, and after spending a week with the watch, it very nearly gets there. Released into the Pelagos collection (where it remains to this day), the FXD was originally a spec-built dive watch for the French Navy, aka the Marine Nationale. Today's models represent a return to a relationship that began in the 1950s, when Tudor provided dive watches for the French Navy's Underwater Study and Research Group. As such, the watch is more than a mere co-branding exercise. The design of the watch, which uses a fixed-lug construction (FXD) for which it is named, is based on the needs of a very niche group of individuals. These needs included a bi-directional countdown bezel, a quality-of-life feature for divers navigating via dead reckoning at relatively shallow depths. The result was a rather unusual watch, but one t...

Hands On: Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion As Urwerk Dec 18, 2024

Hands On: Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion

As Urwerk has matured as a brand, its products have evolved to become more wearable. The recently launched UR-150 Scorpion embodies this evolution. The UR-150 incorporates the familiar Urwerk time display – but with a retrograde twist – but in a sleeker, curved case that hugs the wrist. Initial thoughts The UR-150 continues the emphasis on wearability established by the compact UR-100. The UR-150 is bigger and bolder, but despite its size, the curved case profile allows it to sit well on the wrist. This contrasts with many of Urwerk’s past models, which tended to have wide, flat case backs that were less ergonomic. The curved case also looks good, especially since it continues the line of the domed sapphire crystal. This design moderates the hyper-mechanical aesthetic of many Urwerk models, leaving the UR-150 a little more elegant, albeit in a war machine-like way. In some ways, the UR-150 seems descended from the UR-100. It has a similar tonneau shape, but more streamlined. And it has the signature satellite disc wandering hours, but enhanced with a retrograde minute hand (that’s no doubt borrowed from the UR-210/220/230). The combination of the retrograde minutes with the satellite disc display is notable for Urwerk as the brand historically kept this time display on its simpler watches, while the top-of-the-line satellite cube display was accompanied by the retrograde indicator. This leaves the UR-150 as something of a bridge between two distinct lines of the br...

Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon High-Frequency Diver Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Dec 17, 2024

Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon High-Frequency Diver Review

Just over two years ago, Longines launched the Ultra-Chron, a revival of the super-accurate 1968 original that gained notoriety as the world’s first high-frequency diver. Now Longines has released the Ultra-Chron Carbon, which is the brand’s first watch with a case made from carbon fiber, which, of course, is known for its lightweight durability. The watch, in fact, comes in at just 80 grams for the case and strap. The original Ultra-Chron Diver Ref. 7970 from 1968 was a cushion-cased steel watch that measured 41mm wide with 200 meters of water resistance. It was outfitted with the 5Hz Caliber 431 movement, which was accurate to 2 seconds per day. Our resident expert Mark Bernardo went into all the details of this model as well as the brand’s history with high-frequency timekeeping, in an article you can read here.  The 2022 revival was a little bigger, coming in at 43mm wide, but also beefed up the water resistance to 300 meters. This new Ultra-Chron Carbon shares the same basic specs as this revival model but the blacked-out design kind of makes all the difference in terms of style versatility. Rather than a red minutes hand and matching red accents on the bezel, we see a sleek, monochrome aesthetic that is more stealth than sporty. The use of a contemporary material like carbon also offsets some of that overt “vintage-inspired” design language in favor of its own identity. The cushion-shaped case measures 43mm wide and 14mm thick with a 48mm lug-to-lug measu...

Omega Mixes Bronze-Gold and Titanium for their Latest Seamaster Worn & Wound
Omega Mixes Bronze-Gold Dec 17, 2024

Omega Mixes Bronze-Gold and Titanium for their Latest Seamaster

In 1995, I was 22 years old and sitting in the theater, eagerly awaiting the start of the new James Bond film. It had been six years since the last movie featuring Timothy Dalton, marking the longest gap between Bond films up to that point. I was already deeply invested in collecting watches. Still, the internet hadn’t emerged yet, and I had no idea I was about to encounter one of the timepieces that would forever change how I viewed Omega watches. It took me four more years and two more Brosnan Bond movies to finally acquire a blue Seamaster Professional. Since then, I have owned many more, including a recent blue Diver 300M. While most people’s entry into the Omega universe is the Speedmaster, mine was the Seamaster, which remains my favorite line to this day. When the No Time to Die edition was released with its redesigned, slimmer case, titanium construction, classic aluminum bezel, and boxed sapphire crystal, I sensed that we would be in for a treat with future releases, and I was right. Next, Omega presented the Seamaster 60th anniversary in stainless steel, followed by a standard black-on-black version and a brushed steel dial variant featuring a titanium relief bezel. However, Omega had one more Seamaster release for 2024-the Seamaster Diver 300M in Titanium and Bronze-Gold. As the name implies, this is a grade 2 titanium Seamaster with Bronze-Gold crowns and a Bronze-Gold bezel with an oxalic anodized aluminum insert. Omega’s Bronze-Gold is a unique alloy ...

Seiko Introduces Cherry Blossom Inspired Astron References Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Cherry Blossom Inspired Dec 17, 2024

Seiko Introduces Cherry Blossom Inspired Astron References

Cherry blossoms have long been associated with Japan – and for good reason. These delicate little blossoms contribute an astounding $2.7 billion into the economy with over 63 million people (a number that includes both tourists and those living in Japan) viewing them annually. There’s even a word for this annual custom – hanami, meaning to stroll along, enjoy the blossoms, and nature’s transience. Now, isn’t that beautiful? Though the visual appeal of cherry blossoms might just be one of Japan’s strongest soft-power exports, you have to admit it’s a little overplayed. Yes, I know what I’m saying is a little controversial, but hear me out. After a while, the same old white and pink flowers on a skinny little twig just loses any impact of its natural beauty. You see it so much on towels, keychains, and stationery, one becomes blind to the fact that cherry blossoms are beautiful. It’s a sort of visual desensitization, if you ask me. That’s why I’m quite happy to see the two new models from Seiko being released early next year as Astron GPS Solar 2025 Limited Editions, the SSH171 and SSJ029. Both references are inspired by sakura, but not in the traditional sense. Instead of focusing on spring strolls during the daytime, Seiko has produced two watches that look to the starlight as their guiding principle. In doing so, we have two tonally rich watches that aren’t so clichéd. Like all well-designed Japanese products, the watches in this limited edition s...

Mythbusting: 3 Persistent Patek Philippe and Rolex Myths Debunked Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Dec 17, 2024

Mythbusting: 3 Persistent Patek Philippe and Rolex Myths Debunked

The rise of the internet, and the consequent evolution of the watch-watching community, has inevitably amplified the phenomenon whereby certain objects have come to exert an extraordinary hold over the collective imagination. Here, Colin Alexander Smith debunks three watch myths circulating widely and freely online and in print concerning former French president Nicolas Sarkozy's Rolex and Patek Philippe, the Khanjar Rolex Sea-Dwellers, and what in fact Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay were wearing on their wrists as they summited Mount Everest.

Hublot’s Latest Big Bang is Made From Novak Djokovic’s Racquets SJX Watches
Hublot s Latest Big Bang Dec 16, 2024

Hublot’s Latest Big Bang is Made From Novak Djokovic’s Racquets

Hublot’s latest release is a limited edition created in collaboration with Novak Djokovic, the tennis champion who has 24 Grand Slam titles. The Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is encased in a carbon composite that recycles the player’s tennis racquets and Lacoste polo t-shirts. And its movement has been reworked to utilise aluminium bridges and plates, ensuring the entire watch weighs less than a tennis ball. Initial thoughts Often criticised for its pricey, Sellita-equipped entry-level models and numerous limited editions, Hublot is sometimes controversial. The brand’s higher-end watches, however, are usually more interesting (and occasionally very complex) and sometimes better value. Priced at US$52,700, the Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is expensive enough that it’s not a value proposition. It is, however, interesting for the case material. Moreover it holds a special appeal for fans of Novak Djokovic. And intrinsically, it is technically competent as it’s equipped with a modified Unico movement that is mostly aluminium and ultra light. Tennis racquets Sized like the standard Big Bang Unico, this measures 42 mm by 14.5 mm. The case material, however, is unique. The case and bezel are in a composite derived from 25 Head tennis racquets, 17 dark blue and 15 light blue Lacoste polo t-shirts used by Djokovic throughout the 2023 season. These ground-up racquets and shirts are mixed with an epoxy resin reinforced with quartz powder and glass, resulting in a distinc...

Complecto and Bulova Launch their Second Limited Edition Collaboration Worn & Wound
Bulova Launch their Second Limited Dec 13, 2024

Complecto and Bulova Launch their Second Limited Edition Collaboration

Following an initial partnership in 2023 that produced a limited edition (and sold out) version of the Jet Star, Bulova and Complecto have teamed up once again for a trio of limited edition variants of the Super Seville, all with stone dials. The Bulova and Complecto partnership is a natural one: both are quintessentially New York, and this release is meant to pay tribute to the city that both call home. It’s also a showcase for the Super Seville, a watch we’re pretty big fans of at Worn & Wound for the way it combines a very specific 1970s aesthetic with some amazing Bulova tech, as well as a run at the stone dial trend, one that we continue to find fascinating in the way it’s been embraced by enthusiasts in watches at lower price points.  According to Bulova and Complecto, the watches in this limited edition collection are meant to be a reflection of their shared values, including inclusivity, self-expression, and resilience. Anyone who has been to a Complecto event or had a conversation with founder Jason Gong understands how important inclusivity is to his brand – it’s truly the mission of the company. Complecto was founded to spread a love of watches and the culture around them to groups who have been traditionally ignored by big watch brands and to bring greater diversity to the community. Community building and a welcoming environment are essential to Complecto, so partnering with Bulova on watches with stone dials, traditionally a flourish reserved for t...

Fratello’s Top 5 High-End Indie Watches Of 2024 Fratello
Dec 13, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 High-End Indie Watches Of 2024

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we continue our series of best-of-the-year lists as we cover the best watches from high-end independent brands in 2024. Expect to see an exotic group spanning a nice variety of designs and complications. Of course, five watches do not do justice to the many ones we could have […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 High-End Indie Watches Of 2024 to read the full article.

Patek Philippe Reference 5101: Magnum Opus With Concealed Ten-Day Tourbillon Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 5101 Magnum Opus Dec 13, 2024

Patek Philippe Reference 5101: Magnum Opus With Concealed Ten-Day Tourbillon

The Patek Philippe 5101 ten-day tourbillon isn’t perfect: it’s not notably shock tolerant, there’s no lume, and one could fault its 25-meter water resistance. But most important of all for Tim Mosso is that he can’t afford it! However, since its supernova 2003 debut, the 5101 has established a towering reputation that is, if anything, insufficient to convey the eye-watering beauty and milestone status of this sinuously shaped machine.

Introducing – Artya Releases a Collection of One-of-a-Kind Chronographs in a Wide Variety of Materials and Colours Monochrome
Dec 13, 2024

Introducing – Artya Releases a Collection of One-of-a-Kind Chronographs in a Wide Variety of Materials and Colours

Whether you appreciate or not the styles and designs, which can sometimes be very striking, Artya, the brainchild of Yvan Arpa, is one of the most creative brands around – even though recently, the Stairway to Heaven collection has proved less polarising. Not shy of using unconventional materials for his cases and dials, Arpa is […]