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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Audemars Piguet Inaugurates Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Inaugurates Arc Manufacture Jan 26, 2026

Audemars Piguet Inaugurates Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus

Audemars Piguet (AP) has formally inaugurated the Arc Manufacture in its historical home of Le Brassus. Designed by de Giuli & Portier of Geneva, the 23,700-square metre building will accommodate 700 employees under one roof - a number that would have been almost unheard of in the days of the historical établissage system. It connects to, and partially wraps around, the existing Manufacture des Forges, which was completed in 2008 and housed around 300 employees - an impressive figure for its time. The expanded manufacture should ultimately help boost production, especially considering it was designed with Industry 4.0 in mind. In other words, it’s a smart factory. This includes a Goods-to-Person (GTP) automated sort and retrieval system which uses 66 robots to pick the needed components, which are then delivered by robotic shuttle. While such systems are already used by high-volume luxury watch brands like Rolex and Omega, few haute horlogerie brands have the volumes to justify such an investment. According to AP, the GTP system saves an average of 15 seconds per operation. But more than scale, the new manufacture should deliver higher quality of product – namely superior reliability and less defects – across AP’s offerings. Like other new manufactures of its type, the Arc is extremely energy efficient as well thanks to 321 metres of electrochromic glass, which can automatically change opacity to regulate the amount of light, and heat, allowed in. The building...

SJX Podcast: Perfectly Impractical SJX Watches
Jan 26, 2026

SJX Podcast: Perfectly Impractical

Episode 27 of the SJX Podcast opens the archives to find the most impractical and illegible watches that somehow still manage to be worthwhile despite the triumph of form over function. It’s a difficult formula to get right, and the landscape of fine watchmaking is littered with examples of watches that sacrificed too much at the altar of fashion. But those that strike the right balance are especially memorable. SJX and Brandon also discuss a couple of emerging independents from as far afield as Japan and Finland. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.    

Praesidus Introduces Larger Versions Of Its Jungle Field Watch Fratello
Jan 25, 2026

Praesidus Introduces Larger Versions Of Its Jungle Field Watch

We have seen a wide variety of military-inspired watches from Praesidus in the past few years. For its first release of 2026, the brand decided to update its most popular model. The Praesidus Jungle Field is now available in a larger 38mm size. It adds a more modern touch to the brand’s biggest seller that […] Visit Praesidus Introduces Larger Versions Of Its Jungle Field Watch to read the full article.

Going Yellow: Why I Bought A Doxa Sub 300T Divingstar Fratello
Doxa Sub 300T Divingstar Buying Jan 25, 2026

Going Yellow: Why I Bought A Doxa Sub 300T Divingstar

Buying a watch you already know is a very different experience from buying one you’re curious about. There’s no discovery phase, no anxious waiting for the honeymoon period to either validate or undermine the decision. Instead, it’s quieter, more deliberate. In many ways, that’s exactly how I felt when I purchased my Doxa Sub 300T […] Visit Going Yellow: Why I Bought A Doxa Sub 300T Divingstar to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Thomas’s Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 Vs. Daan’s Cartier Santos Galbée XL Fratello
Cartier Santos Galbée XL Welcome Jan 25, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Thomas’s Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 Vs. Daan’s Cartier Santos Galbée XL

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown, dear Fratelli! This week’s battle is a bit different. Our fearless leader, RJ, served up a provocative proposition during our last editorial meeting: “Why don’t we do a battle between two editors’ personal watches for a change?” Okay, RJ, we hear you. We’re ready and prepared. Let’s get personal! […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Thomas’s Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 Vs. Daan’s Cartier Santos Galbée XL to read the full article.

Inflection: Atelier Wen’s Groundbreaking Full-Tantalum Flagship Quill & Pad
Atelier Wen Jan 24, 2026

Inflection: Atelier Wen’s Groundbreaking Full-Tantalum Flagship

The Inflection by Atelier Wen makes a striking statement with its tantalum case, a rare, durable metal with a naturally dark, steely hue that evolves beautifully over time. It’s a watch that feels as unique to the wrist as it is in the light, turning material innovation into art. The post Inflection: Atelier Wen’s Groundbreaking Full-Tantalum Flagship appeared first on Quill & Pad.

Rolex Reveals Daytona for Winner of 24 Hours of Daytona SJX Watches
Rolex Reveals Daytona Jan 23, 2026

Rolex Reveals Daytona for Winner of 24 Hours of Daytona

Many collectors wait months, or even years, to get ‘the call’ to come pick up their Rolex Daytona. But in Daytona Beach, Florida on Sunday, one lucky individual will take delivery after waiting just 24 hours. Of course, there’s a catch: they must win one of the most grueling endurance races in all of motor sport: The Rolex 24 at Daytona. In other words, it’s not exactly a day at the beach. A day before the green flag is set to fly, Rolex has taken the wraps off this year’s trophy. Curiously, it’s not a ‘Le Mans’ edition, which features a cleverly constructed 24-hour elapsed time sub-dial, but rather a standard two-tone Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126503 with a one-of-a-kind engraving on the case back - a configuration that’s been awarded to the race champion going back to at least 2017. The ‘Daytona’ Daytona Rolex has been associated with a 4.2-mile stretch of hard-packed sand on the Atlantic ocean for nearly a century. The unique conditions of Daytona Beach made it the home of speed in the early 20th century, where several land speed records were broken. The brand’s first testimonee from the world of motor sport, Sir Malcom Campbell, was arguably the king of Daytona Beach, setting a record of 438 kmh in 1933 while wearing a Rolex Oyster. Rolex’s first motor sport testimonee Sir Malcolm Campbell on Daytona Beach in 1935. Image © Bettmann/CORBIS Rolex deepened its association with Daytona in 1963 by naming its chronograph collection after the famous...

Fratello’s Top 5 Video Game Watches - Featuring Hamilton, Seiko, TAG Heuer, And More Fratello
TAG Heuer Jan 23, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Video Game Watches - Featuring Hamilton, Seiko, TAG Heuer, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at some of the most memorable watches created in collaboration with video game franchises. As most of you will know, gaming has grown into a massively successful global industry. As a result, there is a massive audience for watches connected to the many video games out there. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Video Game Watches - Featuring Hamilton, Seiko, TAG Heuer, And More to read the full article.

Interview – Karishma Karer and Punit Mehta, Co-Founders of India Watch Weekend, One of India’s Fastest-Growing Watch Events Monochrome
Jan 23, 2026

Interview – Karishma Karer and Punit Mehta, Co-Founders of India Watch Weekend, One of India’s Fastest-Growing Watch Events

India Watch Weekend returned to Mumbai, India’s financial capital, this year for its second edition. Co-founded by Karishma Karer and Punit Mehta, the event was conceived as a space where watches could be experienced and discussed in an Indian context. Their backgrounds across watch media, brand relations, and collector communities shape the weekend’s focus on […]

Industry News – Richemont Sells Baume & Mercier to Italian Jeweler Damiani Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Jan 23, 2026

Industry News – Richemont Sells Baume & Mercier to Italian Jeweler Damiani

Swiss-based conglomerate Richemont, owner of multiple jewellery and watch brands such as Cartier, IWC, Piaget, A. Lange & Söhne or Vacheron Constantin, to name a few, has agreed to sell Swiss watch brand Baume & Mercier, which it acquired in 1988, to the Italian, family-run Damiani Group, concluding a strategic review of the long-time Richemont […]

Blancpain’s Chinese Calendar Meets “Salmon” Grand Feu Enamel SJX Watches
Blancpain s Chinese Calendar Meets Jan 23, 2026

Blancpain’s Chinese Calendar Meets “Salmon” Grand Feu Enamel

Now an annual affair, Blancpain has just released the Villeret Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel 2026 for the year of the fire horse arriving on February 17, 2026. Though it’s based on a longstanding model, the 2026 edition is dressed in striking new livery. A 50-piece limited edition in platinum with a salmon-coloured grand feu enamel dial, the Calendrier Chinois marks the Year of the Fire Horse in a way that few brands can: with a fully-mechanical Chinese calendar complication. Initial thoughts Building a traditional Chinese calendar complication on wristwatch scale was a real first back in 2012 when Blancpain first unveiled the Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel. While many brands introduce yearly limited editions to honour each year’s symbol of the Chinese zodiac, Blancpain’s annual edition is elevated by a thematic sincerity that comes along with the dedicated complication. This specific edition aside, the Blancpain Chinese calendar is notable and interesting for being one of the few such calendars on the market. It’s a technical achievement and is further upgraded with Blancpain’s patented under-lug correctors for the calendar. The defining colour of the 2026 Chinese calendar comes from its warm, salmon-tone dial. Executed in milky grand feu enamel, the dial is as glossy as ever, and features twin Blancpain ‘secret signatures’ on the lower half of the dial. The often underrated Villeret collection is one of the subtler gems in modern high horology, and it is...

Richemont Unloads Baume & Mercier SJX Watches
Baume & Mercier Jan 22, 2026

Richemont Unloads Baume & Mercier

Today Richemont confirmed the rumoured sale of its entry-level Baume et Mercier brand to the Damiani Group, a key distributor of the brand in Italy through its retail chain Rocca. While Baume et Mercier is understood to not be profitable, the acquisition should give Baume et Mercier the home-field advantage, as Italy is one of the most important markets for the brand today. According to the Baume et Mercier website, 325 stores in Italy carry the brand, compared to just 150 in France, 130 in the United States, and only 66 in Mainland China. A leaner Baume et Mercier focused on the Italian market, in the same vein as Eberhard & Co., is likely in the long-term, but in the meantime it must be untangled from Richemont. The deal is expected to close this summer, after which Richemont will provide “operational services” for the brand for at least 12 months. It is unclear whether the brand’s “Baumatic” movements with 5-day power reserves will survive the transition, as there are made by ValFleurier - Richemont’s counterpart to ETA. For more information, visit Richemont.com.