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Introducing – Three Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th Anniversary Limited Wristwatches… And a Nautilus Pocket Watch Monochrome
Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th Anniversary Limited Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – Three Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th Anniversary Limited Wristwatches… And a Nautilus Pocket Watch

This year, Patek Philippe celebrates the 50th anniversary of a cult watch, the Nautilus. As expected, we are getting some celebratory limited editions. The 30th anniversary of the collection saw the introduction of the references 5711, 5712 Moon and 5980 Chronograph, with what was at the time a true re-launch of the Nautilus (6 references […]

Introducing: Grand Seiko’s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 “Sakura-Wakaba” And 37mm Evolution 9 SLGB006 “Ice Forest At Dawn” Fratello
Grand Seiko s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 Apr 13, 2026

Introducing: Grand Seiko’s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 “Sakura-Wakaba” And 37mm Evolution 9 SLGB006 “Ice Forest At Dawn”

The only sense of nature you can experience when spending days on end in Geneva’s Palexpo event center is by handling Grand Seiko novelties. Yes, we sometimes joke about the plethora of nature-inspired dial designs that the Japanese brand releases. Still, they’re most welcome during Watches and Wonders. After a couple of steamy sessions in […] Visit Introducing: Grand Seiko’s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 “Sakura-Wakaba” And 37mm Evolution 9 SLGB006 “Ice Forest At Dawn” to read the full article.

Zenith Expands G.F.J. Caliber 135 Collection SJX Watches
Zenith Expands G.F.J Caliber 135 Apr 13, 2026

Zenith Expands G.F.J. Caliber 135 Collection

After introducing the G.F.J. Caliber 135 last year, Zenith has expanded the line with two new models and created a new collection in the process. Following closely in the footsteps of the platinum debut model, the new additions are dressed in 18k yellow gold and tantalum, with richly furnished natural stone dials. The cal. 135 returns - now finished in a more traditional manner - boasting impressive performance that does justice to the movement’s enviable competition record. Initial thoughts The return of the legendary cal. 135 was something I always hoped I’d see, but never thought I would. But in a moment akin to Omega’s recreation of the famed cal. 321 chronograph, Zenith brought back one of the most successful observatory calibres in history. The movement made its return last year in grand style to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, well built but priced well above Zenith’s typical domain. The style was also an acquired taste, with a hand-guilloche chapter ring, with a matching pattern machined into the movement bridges. The dial treatment was one thing, but the finishing of the movement arguably dulled what could have been an ascendant moment. For 2026, two new dial configurations - bloodstone and onyx - join what can now be called an official collection, both equally as luxe as the model’s blue debut. Fortunately, when it comes to the cal. 135, Zenith left the brick-style bridge finishing behind, opting for more ordinary - but more attractive ...

Vacheron Constantin’s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns Apr 13, 2026

Vacheron Constantin’s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns

Following a belter of an anniversary year during which the brand launched, among other things, the world’s most complicated wristwatch and a quarter-ton astronomical clock, Vacheron Constantin (VC) kicks off Watches & Wonders with something more low-profile, both literally and figuratively - the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin. While small in stature at just 7.35 mm thick, it’s what’s inside the counts - namely, an all-new micro-rotor calibre with 80 hours of power reserve and seemingly limitless potential. Initial thoughts The new Overseas Ultra-Thin is little different from the model that preceded it, though the ref. 2000V remained rare enough throughout its production run that the format still feels fresh. It also helps that despite the visual similarity, the ref. 2500V is a completely new watch inside and out, catapulting a model that arguably lagged behind its one obvious competitor into instant parity. The ref. 2500V is best understood from the inside out. Audemars Piguet replaced the well-loved historical cal. 2121 with its more modern cal. 7121 in 2022, and now it’s VC’s turn, being the last of the big three purveyors of mass-market fine watchmaking to replace its aging Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920-based movements with an in-house alternative. The reluctance to replace this venerable platform is understandable. What VC calls the cal. 1120 is one of the last movements of its generation still in use, and carries a historical weight missing from many moder...

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On with IWC’s Pilot Venturer Vertical Drive, a New Kind of Space Watch Worn & Wound
IWC s Pilot Venturer Vertical Apr 13, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Hands-On with IWC’s Pilot Venturer Vertical Drive, a New Kind of Space Watch

Space is having a huge moment right now, and if you’re at all like me, you’ve been transported to a time in your youth when you were soaking up anything space exploration related as much as the sun. Well, IWC is going to keep space at the forefront of everyone’s mind here at Watches & Wonders as they’ve just released their Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive, their first watch engineered and certified for spaceflight.  I actually got to see this watch back in February while I was out in Los Angeles with IWC at Vast’s headquarters. Vast is the company building what is set to become the first commercial space station, Haven-1. And that context matters, because this isn’t just a “space-inspired” watch. The Venturer Vertical Drive was designed for actual use in orbit, and it’s already been certified for flight in partnership with Vast.  Historically, space watches have basically just been modified aviation watches, but IWC took a different approach here. Instead of adapting something that already existed, they started from a much simpler question: what does a watch actually need to do in space? The answer led to a few decisions that feel genuinely new, starting with the most obvious one - there’s no crown. From an outsider’s perspective, this feels almost like a flex (and it kinda is). But the way that IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr explained it during our live presentation was that in a zero-gravity environment, as astronauts are moving through tight spac...

TAG Heuer Comes Out Swinging With New Monaco Chronographs Fratello
TAG Heuer Comes Out Swinging Apr 13, 2026

TAG Heuer Comes Out Swinging With New Monaco Chronographs

For Watches and Wonders 2026, it’s clear that TAG Heuer has come out with a hot hand. The Monaco Chronograph is the subject of the brand’s attention, and wow, what a result! Today, we’ll provide an overview of five new models spanning two collections. From my perspective, these are the most significant updates in ages, […] Visit TAG Heuer Comes Out Swinging With New Monaco Chronographs to read the full article.

Watches & Wonders: Bulgari Launches an Octo Finissimo in 37mm Worn & Wound
Bulgari Launches Apr 13, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Bulgari Launches an Octo Finissimo in 37mm

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is a certifiably unique watch that you can identify on someone’s wrist from across a room. Part of this is because of its exotic integrated design, and the other part is that they are kind of huge, despite being very thin. That contrast has always been part of the appeal, but also part of the problem. For years, the Octo Finissimo has represented an avant-garde take on modern watch design. Thin, minimal, architectural, and kind of brutal, it exists as a distant relative of a Genta-era idea, but pushed into something more experimental. It has also built its reputation on technical achievement, frequently contending for the world’s thinnest watch, and holding that title more than once over the last decade. But this year, Bulgari isn’t focused on thinness. Instead, they’ve turned their attention to something far more practical: wearability. For the first time since the line launched in 2014, Bulgari has introduced a smaller “consumer” model, bringing the Octo Finissimo down to 37mm. On paper, that might not sound like much. In practice, it changes everything. The standard 40mm models were always a bit deceptive. While 40mm is not particularly large for a round watch, the Octo Finissimo is anything but round. These watches are essentially flat squares with wide integrated lugs, creating a large corner-to-corner span and a cuff-like presence on the wrist. The result is a watch that wears significantly larger than its width suggests. It’s...

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko Finally Gives Us a Medium Sized Dive Watch, and it Includes a Spring Drive Powered U.F.A. Movement Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Finally Gives Us Apr 13, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko Finally Gives Us a Medium Sized Dive Watch, and it Includes a Spring Drive Powered U.F.A. Movement

If you were take a poll of Grand Seiko enthusiasts and collectors to ask them what they thought was missing from the brand’s catalog, I have a feeling a significant portion of respondents would tell you the same thing: a great dive watch. Grand Seiko has, of course, been making divers for years, and a lot of them have been objectively outstanding and well liked by certain pockets of the Grand Seiko community. But they’ve never had a diver that’s really caught fire in the way that something like the Snowflake has – there’s no icon in their dive watch range. I think most would agree that this is at least in part because to this point the brand’s dive watches have always been on the chunky side, and not really a viable competitor to the Submariners and Seamasters of the world in terms of their wearability.  Grand Seiko seeks to change that at Watches & Wonders this year, with the rather ambitious release of the new Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver. This new 40.8mm High-Intensity Titanium dive watch uses a new Spring Drive movement featuring the same tech as last year’s 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, which boasts an accuracy rate of plus or minus 20 seconds per year.  There are really two notable things about this watch. First, there’s the movement, Caliber 9RB1, which has the same U.F.A (Ultra Fine Accuracy) designation as the 9RB2 introduced last year. The 20 second annual accuracy rate is, according to Grand Seiko, the most accurate wristwatch movement powe...

Just When I Thought It Couldn’t Get Better: Cartier Privé Tank Normale, Tortue, And Crash Squelette Fratello
Cartier Privé Tank Normale Tortue Apr 13, 2026

Just When I Thought It Couldn’t Get Better: Cartier Privé Tank Normale, Tortue, And Crash Squelette

With this year’s Cartier Privé release, the brand marks the 10th yearly Privé drop by revisiting three of its most iconic shapes. The Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, and Crash Squelette return in a platinum execution with burgundy accents. In 2024, I spent time with the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph and came away genuinely impressed. That […] Visit Just When I Thought It Couldn’t Get Better: Cartier Privé Tank Normale, Tortue, And Crash Squelette to read the full article.

Aaron Becsei Rebrands, Launches Becsei J.Z.A. SJX Watches
Apr 13, 2026

Aaron Becsei Rebrands, Launches Becsei J.Z.A.

Hungarian independent watchmaker Aaron Becsei, long known for his expert craftsmanship and flamboyant designs, has rebranded and launched the Becsei J.Z.A., a finely made time-only watch with a more digestible design that should broaden his reach with contemporary collectors. Like Mr Becsei’s earlier work, the J.Z.A. is substantially handmade and will be produced in limited numbers - eight pieces, to be specific. Initial thoughts Aaron Bescei is an independent watchmaker of the old school - a craftsman with the bench experience to produce a watch from scratch. This aspect of his craft is noteworthy in a segment crowded with engineers and constructors that typically farm out finishing and assembly. He’s also been around awhile, having been granted admittance to the AHCI in 2009, though for more than a decade he’s traded under the phonetic pronunciation of his name, Bexei. After a relatively quiet period, the third-generation Hungarian independent watchmaker returns with a rebranded business and a new round watch that manages to stand out despite its now-common format. Mr Bescsei’s previous watches were extravagantly finished with impressively wide, rounded bevels and other lovely details. In many ways, he was a decade ahead of the demand for such watches, but his designs were often maximalist and baroque. His earlier watches, the Dignitas, in particular, featured a massive rectangular case and engraved scrollwork - an aesthetic in tension with contemporary tas...

Gagà Laboratorio’s New Aqualab Pulls Off A Tricky Design Brief Fratello
Apr 13, 2026

Gagà Laboratorio’s New Aqualab Pulls Off A Tricky Design Brief

When I heard Gagà Laboratorio was launching its first dive watch, the Aqualab, I was skeptical. The brand’s distinct identity made me question how it would translate into a sportier, tool-oriented direction. That’s a testament to the uniqueness of its design language, not a criticism of its existing watches. The Labormatic, for example, always struck […] Visit Gagà Laboratorio’s New Aqualab Pulls Off A Tricky Design Brief to read the full article.