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The Aquastar Benthos Returns As The Heritage One Limited Edition Two Broke Watch Snobs
Dec 1, 2023

The Aquastar Benthos Returns As The Heritage One Limited Edition

With more than a few releases under their belt since the brand's formal re-launch in 2020, Aquastar has had our attention for a while now. They currently offer a mix of faithful re-editions as well as new models inspired by previous designs. But so far, dive watch nerds have been curious about another Aquastar diver lurking deep within the shadows of dive watch history.

Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce Dec 1, 2023

Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack”

Rumours of a brown ceramic Royal Oak began circulating several months ago, and the latest launch from Audemars Piguet (AP) has proven them true. However, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” 41 mm is more than a new colour, and instead it’s a 200-piece limited edition collaboration with American Rapper Travis Scott and his streetwear label Cactus Jack. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is interesting for being more than just a change of dial colour, which is usually the route taken for limited editions. While it is based on the standard model, the “Cactus Jack” gets a brown ceramic case as well as typography based on the musician’s handwriting on the dial, along with Cactus Jack’s smiley emblem for the moons. Notably, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is just one part of AP’s collaboration with Mr Scott. Their tie-up also includes a line of clothing, including hoodies, t-shirts, and caps, that will be available on Cactus Jack’s own retail site. Initial thoughts Although the “Cactus Jack” is fundamentally identical to the regular production skeleton perpetual in ceramic, it looks strikingly different because of the case. Typically I am not a fan of brown ceramic, but here the material sets the watch apart instantly. This differentiation is a good thing since there are many, many version of the Royal Oak perpetual calendar – the non-skeleton ceramic model is already available in b...

Arcanaut’s New “Havender” and “Klint” Dials Make Use of Unexpected Materials to Great Effect Worn & Wound
Nov 30, 2023

Arcanaut’s New “Havender” and “Klint” Dials Make Use of Unexpected Materials to Great Effect

We’re nearing the end of the year, and being the type of person who is already keenly interested in list making as a form of assessment, I’ve naturally started to think about the watches, brands, and new releases that have left the biggest mark in 2023. For me personally, there probably isn’t a more important release or addition to my own collection than the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite, a watch I’ve made no secret of my admiration for many times over. Arcanaut looms large for me as an independent brand that is accessible, contemporary in their aesthetic, and willing to experiment, all things I put a high value on when it comes to new watches. Their latest releases are something of an extension of the D’Arc Matter Colors Collection we told you about a few months ago, and lean heavily into the brand’s commitment to experimenting with materials in new and interesting ways.  First up is the Havender, which takes the Arc II platform and gives it a dial in a gorgeous shade of light purple. But this isn’t simply a coat of paint on a base dial – according to Arcanaut, the Havender represents the brand’s most ambitious composite dial to date. The source of the dial and its unique color comes from a surprising place: Scandinavian mussel shells. Part of the ethos of the Arcanaut brand is to source components locally whenever possible, and brand co-owner James Thompson saw an interesting opportunity via a mussel farm located close to Aracanaut’s headquarters.  Once a...

Takashi Murakami Fuses Art and Horology with the Hublot MP-15 SJX Watches
Hublot MP-15 Hublot unveiled Nov 22, 2023

Takashi Murakami Fuses Art and Horology with the Hublot MP-15

Hublot unveiled its fourth collaboration with the Japanese artist Takashi Murakami – the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire. Demonstrating Hublot’s mastery sapphire crystal cases, the watch is the brand’s first central tourbillon in regular production. The MP-15 is a fusion of artistic expression and watchmaking, that pushes the boundaries of mechanics and design, with the nudging of Mr Murakami, who previously designed a pair of simpler watches for Hublot. Initial thoughts The MP-15 is an entirely new watch, from case to movement, that was constructed to embody  Mr Murakami’s signature style. It takes a fresh and playful direction away from the relatively tamer previous editions that were based on an existing model. First seen with the unique example produced for Only Watch, the latest collaboration between Hublot and Takashi Murakami seamlessly combines Mr Murakami’s artistic vision with Hublot’s watchmaking proficiency, resulting in a unique and expressive watch.  Notably, the MP-15 is not as big as expected. It’s 42 mm in diameter but has no lugs, while the strap is narrow, making it suitable for both men and women. The Only Watch edition The MP-15 is more than a watch; it’s arguably wearable art. The retail price of US$316,000 certainly puts it closer to Mr Murakami’s creations than a wristwatch, even with the tourbillon. It is a very expensive wristwatch, but not so expensive relative to Mr Murakami’s art. Though this is a relatively lar...

Hands-On: the ochs und junior Settimana Seasons “Autumn” Worn & Wound
Nov 21, 2023

Hands-On: the ochs und junior Settimana Seasons “Autumn”

There are relatively few brands out there that don’t need a name on the dial. Sure, you can tell apart a Submariner, Seamaster, and Aquis with all branding removed. But how about recognizing a whole brand rather than a single model? One brand that doesn’t need a name or logo on their watches, yet still remain distinctive and recognizable to many enthusiasts is ochs und junior. From displaying the date through a series of holes around the dial, through to a moon phase complication accurate to 1 day every 122 years, the brand has continued to push ingenuity in function and display while keeping steadfastly true to its design ethos. Like many others, my admiration for the brand and designs have continued to grow, yet this is the first time I’ve held one in my hands. $2300 Hands-On: the ochs und junior Settimana Seasons “Autumn” Case Titanium Movement Sellita SW200-1 Dial Light Orange Lume SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Textile Water Resistance 50 meters Dimensions 40 x 41mm Thickness 13mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $2300 The watch I’m looking at today forms part of ochs und junior’s more affordable (and non-customizable) collections. What you see offered is what you can get. There is no choice of case material. No long list of dial, hand, disc and marker combinations. For some customers this probably doesn’t represent the full ochs und junior experience. For others, like me, restricting the choices to a small selection of pre-defined...

The New Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces a New Luminescent Composite Case Material Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces Nov 21, 2023

The New Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces a New Luminescent Composite Case Material

I’ve long been on record as an appreciator and fan of the wilder designs from Bell & Ross. Few watch brands, in fact, have a wider design purview than B&R;, which has fairly traditional aviation inspired watches at one end of the spectrum, bronze skull watches on the other, and their standard square case instrument watches right in the middle. The LUM series, an ongoing collection of watches that use luminescent material in a manner that can only be described as Maximalist, sits somewhere near the skulls, I think. Watch enthusiasts, of course, are notable in that we tend to love inventive applications of lume, but bold designs centered around the stuff still feel fairly niche. The new BR-X5 Green Lum takes the brand’s experiments with lume to a new level, giving the case itself the full lume treatment.  Seeing the press release for this watch, I knew immediately that it was destined to be a new object of obsession for me, perhaps not unlike my beloved Multimeter. It takes the still relatively new BR-X5 platform, the brand’s most contemporary and forward looking case design, and gives it a visual and material transformation via the brand’s LM3D composite. This material is made from quartz fibers which are completely photoluminescent, giving off a pronounced green glow. The case is a combination of this material and DLC coated titanium, which effectively acts as a shell with large pieces of LM3D at the top and bottom of the case. The dial is matte black and serves to...

Recapping the 2023 NYC Windup Watch Fair: The Largest Consumer Watch Event in North America Worn & Wound
Nov 16, 2023

Recapping the 2023 NYC Windup Watch Fair: The Largest Consumer Watch Event in North America

Another year of Windup Watch Fairs is in the books and we couldn’t have asked for a better end to 2023 than the New York City installment hosted just a few short weeks ago. After eight years of producing Windup Fairs around the US, it’s hard to imagine the show continually exceeding our expectations, but in 2023 we were once again pleasantly surprised. And needless to say, the foundation to this success are you, our readers. The Worn & Wound community is truly something special. You bring boundless enthusiasm to every Windup Fair and never make newcomers feel out of place. You show love to the participating brands, whether or not their specific products are your cup of tea. You make our team feel appreciated for all of their hard work, which makes our jobs that much more fulfilling. From everyone at Worn & Wound and everyone involved in the Windup Watch Fair, thank you! This year’s NYC Windup Watch Fair featured the most brands under one Windup roof ever. In total, over 80 brands showcased their goods, including watches over every style and price point, accessories galore, and, more than ever, non-watch products like pens, knives, flashlights, vintage print advertisements, and apparel. But all this product is nothing without an audience, and boy did we have an audience. This year’s show was the most well-attended Windup ever, with Saturday breaking all single-day records for attendance and product sales.  To take a look back at the weekend’s festivities, we’ve...

Hands-On With the Iridescent New Oris ProPilot X Laser Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Czapek Arcanaut Nov 16, 2023

Hands-On With the Iridescent New Oris ProPilot X Laser

Oris expands their ProPilot X collection this week at the Dubai Watch Week event, with the introduction of the ProPilot X Laser. The watch continues with the theme of the ProPilot X, bringing the same trim titanium case and bracelet to the party, but this time mated to a very different dial experience than we’ve seen before in this collection. There are big changes and some smaller ones that we appreciate seeing here, as this represents the biggest departure from the standard trio introduced last year. Oris has never been afraid to wade into experimental waters with their dials, and this ProPilot X continues that trend in a new way.  The latest ProPilot X is called Laser thanks to the technique used to create its dial, a method which Oris claims has not been applied in watchmaking before. Oris enlisted the help of a research lab affiliated to the prestigious ETH Zürich university to bring the concept to life. The result is something bordering ethereal in person, with a constantly changing palette of colors rendered in the unique texture. The iridescent effect is quite powerful and Oris has demonstrated a deft hand in making sure it’s the focal point of this watch. We’ve been spoiled by some truly amazing dial creations in recent years from the likes of Grand Seiko, Czapek, Arcanaut, and yes, even Oris. My first thought upon seeing a truly compelling dial is to how it fits in with the rest of the watch. For instance, the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite boasts a unique color...

Norqain Introduces the First Wild ONE Featuring Solid Gold, Plus a New Blacked Out Version Worn & Wound
Norqain Introduces Nov 15, 2023

Norqain Introduces the First Wild ONE Featuring Solid Gold, Plus a New Blacked Out Version

We’re a little more than a year into the life of the Wild ONE, Norqain’s ambitious sports watch featuring their proprietary Norteq material. In a catalog of watches that are mostly inspired by classic, vintage watch design cues, the Wild ONE stands out as being unapologetically modern, both in terms of its aesthetics and the raw materials. This watch is part of an ongoing turn within the industry to alternative materials based in carbon fibers, plastics, and uncommon metals and alloys. According to Norqain, the combination of Norteq and rubber used in the case allows for a watch that can be rated to an unreal 5,000g shock test, which would likely create an impact that the wearer would have a hard time walking away from. Norqain has been framing the Wild ONE all along as a pure sports watch, but with these latest variants, I continue to wonder if it’s really more of an incredibly impact resistant design object.  To be clear, I like this watch as a design object. I’m not taking it mountain biking, rock climbing, skiing, or anything else that the Norqain team thinks I might want to do with it. But I do like the way it looks and the way it’s made, and I think the latest releases seen here expand on the design language in a fun way. First up is the first Wild ONE to make use of solid gold, the aptly named Wild ONE Gold. The top section of the case is crafted from polished 18-carat red gold, with the base section made of black Norteq. The middle features the Wild ONE...

Timex Introduces a Trio of Watches Inspired by the Art of Keith Haring Worn & Wound
Timex Introduces Nov 13, 2023

Timex Introduces a Trio of Watches Inspired by the Art of Keith Haring

Across the 80’s, it would have been hard to miss the cultural impact that Keith Haring’s work had. Influenced by the graffiti culture of New York City, Haring mixed visual storytelling with an irreverence that caught the attention of art elite and the average Joe alike.  More than 30 years on from his death, Haring’s legacy has been immortalized in everything from Pandora rings to H&M; capsules. Now, Timex is honoring the artist with three new references that show the whimsy and urbanity of Haring’s work. Inspired by Haring’s early work of white graffiti on dark subway tiles, these three watches have a striking contrast of black-and-white that instantly makes them hard to miss. While elements of Haring’s work touch on the design, each reference is wholly Timex, making this a collaboration that highlights both the artist and the maker. The Timex x Keith Haring Easy Reader (ref: TW2W25400) is first on the list for those looking to show off some 80’s-style high art graffiti. It features an INDIGLO backlight, quartz movement, mineral glass crystal, and a 30 meter water-resistant design. The watch stands out with a customized strap featuring Haring’s work, adding a further dimension to the co-branding experience. With a 38mm case diameter and 18mm lug width, it strikes a balanced profile for both men and women to enjoy. Next on the list is the Timex x Keith Haring T80 (ref: TW2W25500), a digital watch that’s equipped with a chronograph, daily alarm, and month,...

Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03 Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR 03 Former Olympic Nov 8, 2023

Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03

Former Olympic cycling coach Dave Brailsford once said, “If you broke down everything you could think of that goes into riding a bike, and then improved it by 1%, you will get a significant increase when you put them all together”. The new Bell & Ross BR 03 features several small tweaks to its most iconic line of watches, and although not every modification is objectively ‘better’, the combination of all of the changes give us a watch that somehow feels less intense and therefore significantly more wearable. I’ve spent some time with the new BR 03 Military Ceramic to work out just what makes it feel so different. On the face of it, not much has changed. A reduction in case diameter from 42mm all the way down to 41mm isn’t earth-shattering. Without seeing the two side by side you would be hard-pressed to know which one you are looking at. The other case changes are just as subtle. The shape has been altered slightly to round the corners a little more. The introduction of the BR 05 in 2019 saw a much softer ‘square’ shape from Bell and Ross. The new BR 03 remains much closer to the square instrument panel shape the brand is famous for, but the silhouette reshaping is one of those 1% changes mentioned above. $4300 Hands-On: the New, Smaller, Bell & Ross BR 03 Case Micro Blasted ceramic Movement BR-CAL.302 Dial Khaki Lume Numerals and hands Lens Sapphire Strap Khaki rubber Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 41 x 50mm Thickness 10.6mm Lug Width 24mm Crown Pu...

Hands On: An Impressively Preserved Rolex Ref. 6062 SJX Watches
Rolex Ref 6062 Arguably Nov 1, 2023

Hands On: An Impressively Preserved Rolex Ref. 6062

Arguably the most storied Rolex model in history, more so than the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the ref. 6062 triple calendar is beautiful, and unusually for Rolex, complicated. At the same time, the ref. 6062 boasts the trademark water-resistant Oyster case, something that its closest cousin, the ref. 8171 “Padellone” triple calendar, lacks. Soon to go under the hammer at Phillips in Geneva is a particularly impressive example of the ref. 6062. While there have been more storied examples of the ref. 6062 sold in recent years – including the “Bao Dai” owned by the last emperor of Vietnam – the upcoming ref. 6062 is possibly the best preserved. It is a steel example, and while a steel ref. 6062 is rare, the condition of this watch truly sets it apart. The case appears original in shape and detail, though it shows wear; modest wear considering the seven decades since the watch was made. Phillips describes the case as “unpolished” and while that cannot be ascertained with absolutely certainty, the claim is certainly a credible one. The Oyster case has its full shape, defined edges, and even the tiny step at the very top of the bezel where it meets the crystal. More so than any of the other external components, the case back of this model typically shows the most obvious wear as the engravings are shallow. But here the original engravings look almost like they did fresh out of the factory, right down to the rectangular blocks separating the two lines of text. Int...

Celebrating “Hitchcocktober” as a Watch Enthusiast Worn & Wound
Tissot Oct 30, 2023

Celebrating “Hitchcocktober” as a Watch Enthusiast

Costumes, trick-or-treating, jack-o-lanterns, scary movies; October brings a whole host of traditions. And nobody did the latter better-or lent his name to a seasonal pun more easily-than Alfred Hitchcock, whom cinephiles everywhere venerate this month with “Hitchcocktober” marathons of the great director’s oeuvre. Movie buffs look for Alfred Hitchcock’s requisite cameo in his films, but there are rarer cameos for watch fans to keep an eye out for as well. Hitchcock’s films are timeless and, unexpectedly, mostly timepiece-less. Possibly the most famous Hitchcock watch-spot: Jimmy Stewart’s Tissot in Rear Window Hitchcock earned his reputation as the Master of Suspense over a 54-year directorial career that saw Hitchcock create classics like Rebecca (1940), Vertigo (1958), Psycho (1960), and The Birds (1963). His films are rife with plot twists and mistaken identity, playful avoidance of censors, and some of the most creative, and unnerving, visuals ever put to film. Hitchcock was the man who thought up a crop duster chase scene and a shower stabbing and a dozen other iconic scenes that have become among the most famous in film history. The British director was workmanlike in bringing his vision to life on screen. Hitchcock once remarked that he believed “actors should be treated like cattle.” Watches get similar treatment in his film-when they do appear they are never window dressing, they’re predominantly used to, well, tell time. Take, for example...

TAG Heuer Continues the Carrera’s 60th Anniversary Celebration with Gold Version Inspired by Vintage References Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Continues Oct 26, 2023

TAG Heuer Continues the Carrera’s 60th Anniversary Celebration with Gold Version Inspired by Vintage References

It’s no stretch of the imagination to think that there is a large crossover between motorsports and horology. In fact, some of the most well-known drivers have become synonymous with the brands they rep both on their wrists and plastered across their car. It makes sense, then, that TAG Heuer would look back to their motoring history to help celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Carrera collection. Going back a few decades, we can in part acknowledge Jack Heuer as one of the reasons watches and cars have become paired in our collective minds. During the Golden Age of motoracing, Heuer introduced the concept of gifting gold watches to racing stars. It was here that solidified TAG Heuer as a brand that wasn’t just respectable – but covetable. It’s this bit of Heuer history which has become the inspiration behind this new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph. Coming in at 39mm in an 18-karat gold case, the watch itself is a timeless piece of art which sits somewhere between its sporty heritage and its luxury namesake. The small details of this watch show the thoughtful design to really honor the heritage of this collection: from the integrated chronograph pushers to the black subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock which are a nod to past expressions of the iconic reverse panda configuration. Most intriguing of all is the Glassbox design of the case itself, a flourish brought to the collection this year to celebrate the Carrera’s 60th anniversary. With an ultra-ergonomic design, the ...

Insight: When Simplicity Belies Complexity, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum Oct 23, 2023

Insight: When Simplicity Belies Complexity, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum

The Chronomètre Optimum is arguably François-Paul Journe’s most complex no-complication creation. Being a time-only watch, the Chronomètre Optimum displays the same amount of information as the entry-level Chronomètre Souveraine, albeit for more than twice the price, with the Chronomètre Optimum retailing for US$129,500 in platinum and a bit less in gold. On a pleasantly asymmetric dial, the Chronomètre Optimum presents the wearer with the time, down to the second, and a power reserve indicator. Plain as the dial might seem, the Chronomètre Optimum’s appeal lies in its inner, and largely hidden, complexity. In fact, the cal. 1510 within ranks among the most sophisticated time-only movements on the market today. Chronometry Historically the tourbillon was never a complication, though it is often regarded as such today – though some prominent collectors disagree. In this context, it is difficult to label the features of the Chronomètre Optimum true complications. But since the timepiece was designed with chronometry in mind, its features of engineered accuracy might just qualify as a complication. Chronometry in mechanical watchmaking is regarded as a marriage between accuracy and precision, as there is a nuance between the two. Accuracy is the quality of a watch or clock to have a timekeeping deviation as close to zero as possible, whereas precision relates more to the consistency and stability of the timepiece’s rate, rather than to a temporary lack of devi...

A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain Worn & Wound
Rolex Richemont or Oct 12, 2023

A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain

When writing about brands, we often use the words “micro” or “independent” to describe any brand that is not a Swiss luxury powerhouse or part of a mega conglomerate. Think of Rolex, Richemont or the Swatch Group for example. Most micro and independents we write about are, more often than not, brands that are more about design and a certain lifestyle philosophy than engineering and manufacturing. 99% of brands I love are the former. This doesn’t mean, however, that the latter don’t exist. Instead, an independent brand can be qualified as being one which goes beyond design to create stuff. A lot of new and cutting-edge stuff. This brings us to Horage, the Swiss that has been covered in these pages extensively, and more recently, most recently when Ed Jelley reviewed the Lensman 2. What we know about Horage is this: they make their own movements, good ones at that, and unique looking watches. I recently attended an event hosted by Horage through which I discovered that the brand actually does much more. Not only does Horage make its own movements, but it’s also at the forefront of technology to make watch manufacturing more sustainable. Or, should I say, watch collecting more sustainable. Through the discovery of their newest model and caliber-which I will tell you about in a second-I realized that everything in life does indeed work in cycles. Think about this: Rolex started as what we now describe as being a microbrand. It bought parts from many places to...

Beaubleu Launches the Ecce, the French Brand’s First Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Oct 6, 2023

Beaubleu Launches the Ecce, the French Brand’s First Permanent Collection

Beaubleu is a French brand that we’ve covered a handful of times since their debut in 2017, and we certainly have a soft spot for their quirky and contemporary design language. The basic idea is rather simple, at least on paper: instead of traditional hands, Beaubleu uses circular rings of different sizes to tell the time. As they move around the dial, it creates a very different impression than what you’d see on a normal watch, and causes some reflection as to why traditional handsets, with their inherent precision, are so commonplace to begin with. Like Alain Silberstein’s designs, Beaubleu’s watches remind us that a watch can be anything, and that shape is a critical element in how we relate to watches both practically and emotionally. Beaubleu, to this point, has also done a fantastic job of using color to drive these ideas home. With their new Ecce line of watches, the brand’s first permanent collection, Beaubleu has further refined their aesthetic, adding a bracelet for the first time, and making subtle changes to their dials and cases that allow everything to work together a bit more harmoniously.  The core of the design, of course, is unchanged. We still get the unique circular hands in the three models that launch the Ecce collection, with a large running seconds circle, a small hours circle, and a medium sized minutes circle in between. The 39mm cases have sculpted flanks and prominent, brushed circular bezel that complements the hands as well the circ...

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Yema Oct 6, 2023

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary

Celebrating 75 years in business, French watchmakers Yema have recently released their Yachtingraf Tourbillon Maréographe, a tribute to classic design and Franco-Swiss watchmaking mastery. Ringing in a milestone is never an easy feat; but, somehow, Yema has been able to accomplish not only a timeless design, but something that showcases the pursuit of excellence that has defined the brand over the course of its history.  Don’t let the plain black and steel (or bronze) design fool you – this watch is anything but simple. Yema has incorporated a balance between yachting heritage design and function to show what this watch is capable of – while also doing it with a certain je nais sais quoi, courtesy of a somewhat unexpected tourbillon caliber. The tourbillon is visible at the 6 o’clock mark, giving one an interior look into the precision mechanisms of this masterpiece. Opposite that, at the 12 hour, the Maréographe has a unique lunar time complication with a display of tide cycles, complete with a decorative bearing the traditional Yema “Y” logo. While maybe not part of your day-to-day needs, it’s nonetheless a showing of Yema’s technical capabilities and a bit of a unique offering for an important anniversary. This watch measures in at 42.5 mm, giving it a sense of presence on the wrist that matches the various finishes of the design. The rotating bezel is beautifully crafted with additional scratch protection, while the double-domed sapphire crystal will...

Longines Adds a Titanium Flyback Chronograph to the Spirit Collection Worn & Wound
Longines Adds Oct 5, 2023

Longines Adds a Titanium Flyback Chronograph to the Spirit Collection

Earlier this year, to considerable fanfare on their part, Longines launched the Flyback Chronograph within their Spirit Collection. The Spirit Collection has been critical for Longines over these past few years. It’s a spot in the catalog where the brand is really trying to carve out a niche for themselves in the contemporary watch landscape. After years of being better than possibly any other brand at raiding the archives for heritage based reissues, the Spirit Collection seems like a conscious choice to branch out into something different – to prove that Longines has a foot in the modern watch world, and isn’t just playing the hits. For me, the Spirit Collection really gelled with the introduction of its first titanium watch. This no date execution of the Spirit in a super lightweight metal really felt like the brand finding a groove with a new product line, and they’ve now somewhat predictably added a titanium version of the Flyback Chronograph to the collection, adding some symmetry to the catalog and perhaps a more wearable version of an impressive, but large, chrono. The broad strokes of the Flyback are virtually identical to the steel version issued earlier this year. We get a 42mm case that’s 17mm (yes, 17mm) thick, with a rotating 60 minute timing bezel with a ceramic insert, mounted to a matching titanium bracelet or a textile strap. The dial is anthracite, complementing the tone of the grade 5 titanium rather well, with subdials at 3:00 and 9:00 for mi...

The Owner’s Perspective: Why I Bought The Tissot Sideral S WatchAdvice
Tissot Sideral S After seeing Sep 22, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: Why I Bought The Tissot Sideral S

After seeing the press release, then having all three colourways for our hands on review for a few weeks, I pulled the trigger on the yellow Tissot Sideral S. But why? I’ve been wearing the yellow Tissot Sideral S now for about 2 months. And whilst we already did a hands on review on the collection, which you can read about here, this is an “Owner’s Perspective” with a difference. I mean, how can I do another review of a watch that I reviewed a few months back? To start I thought I’d elaborate on my review, especially now than rather than playing around with 3 colours, I’ve just the one to wear as part of my small collection. I said that the Tissot Sideral was one of those watches that you buy to add to a collection, not to start it, or to have as your one watch. Mostly because it’s not an everyday watch when you think about. It’s bright yellow for one, with a yellow inner track on the dial and a kind of pointless regatta timer on the inner scale. The Sideral S in the sand – perfect pairing! To add to this, its black carbon case isn’t all that versatile either, nor is its looks. It’s a very out there sports watch. BUT that’s exactly what it’s designed to be. A faithful recreation of the original yellow fiberglass cased Sideral S from 1971. However, with 300m water resistance, Tissot’s PowerMatic 80 movement with 80hrs of power reserve and their anti-magnetic Nivachron balance spring, it’s the perfect weekend watch, or holiday watch, or really,...

Urwerk Conceives a Sci-Fi Tower Clock for Charity SJX Watches
Urwerk Conceives Sep 19, 2023

Urwerk Conceives a Sci-Fi Tower Clock for Charity

With a towering height of 1.62 m and hefty weight of 40 kg, the one-of-a-kind Space-Time Blade created for Only Watch 2023 undeniably embodies the quintessential Urwerk style in both form and concept. The Space-Time Blade is the only sci-fi, retro-electronic clock in an auction dominated by mechanical wristwatches, proving that Urwerk always does things its own way. Even then the Space-Time Blade is hardly a clock in the conventional sense. It eschews minute and hour hands, and even the outline of a conventional standing clock. Instead it illustrates Urwerk founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei’s fascination with the captivating and vintage technology of Nixie tubes. It will be sold by Christie’s during Only Watch, the charitable auction held every other year to raise funds for research into a cure for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Initial thoughts It’s easy to see this in the corner of a Brutalist home, alongside other examples of interpretive modern art, but that is not what makes this piece interesting from a construction or technical standpoint. Instead it is the Nixie tubes and their display, along with the multiple timekeeping functions that provided reason for pause. The many and varied ways in which this piece can measure and display time speak to the heart of Urwerk’s philosophy. Known for polarising pieces that push the line between timekeeper and sculpture, Urwerk has created its most abstract timepiece to date with its singular take on the standing ...

Breitling Rethinks the Navitimer with Smaller Sizes, New Colors, and Diamonds Worn & Wound
Breitling Rethinks Sep 15, 2023

Breitling Rethinks the Navitimer with Smaller Sizes, New Colors, and Diamonds

While of course we are often used to a few new references here and there, Swiss brand Breitling has made an astonishing bet on their new additions to the Navitimer line-up, with a staggering 20 references released last week. Each slightly more unique than the last, the Navitimer 32 and 36 collections showcase not just the delicate beauty of these models, but the overall confidence that Breitling has on this historic design. The Navitimer has come a long way from its utility roots to now be an object of affection for Hollywood stars like Charlize Theron, who heads the campaign for this release. First introduced in 1952 as an aviation watch, the beaded darling of Breitling has since become a mainstay in the brand’s repertoire. Now, with the 32 and 36 releases, we see a softer side to the potential that exists with such a timeless design. From pale pinks to blues, greens and grays, each watch is deeply embedded in the natural world while being elevated by the artistry of Breitling’s design team. Decorated in a combination of mother-of-pearl, lab-grown diamond, and traceable gold, we see a balance between functionality and design that softens the edges a bit for an otherwise bold model. The Navitimer 36 is, no surprise here, a 36mm stainless steel case that fits handsomely on either a man or woman’s wrist. The dial of the Navitimer 36 is circumscribed with the standard beaded bezel and additional slide rule (a throwback to the aviation history of this watch). One has the...

Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca shares 3 key insights into the future of the Type XX Time+Tide
Breguet CEO Lionel Sep 3, 2023

Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca shares 3 key insights into the future of the Type XX

Breguet is not like other watch brands. I say this not to simply point out that their products are distinct within the market, but rather to define their guiding philosophy, which ultimately informs their products, that also sets them apart. Sure, other watch brands have celebrated namesakes. Few, if any, are more celebrated than Abraham-Louis … ContinuedThe post Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca shares 3 key insights into the future of the Type XX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II): Despite Looking Similar to its Predecessor, Everything is New Quill & Pad
Rexhep Rexhepi Sep 3, 2023

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II): Despite Looking Similar to its Predecessor, Everything is New

The classic design of the Akrivia RRCC II’s dial has roots in founder Rexhep Rexhepi’s vision of high-quality nineteenth-century pocket watch dials adorned with high-fire enamel and combined with a modern twist based on “sector” dials of the 1930s and '40s. But there's much more to this brand-new watch than that as Elizabeth Doerr explains.

[Hands-On] De Bethune Goes All Blue (Again) with New Kind of Blue DB28XP Worn & Wound
De Bethune Goes All Blue Again Sep 1, 2023

[Hands-On] De Bethune Goes All Blue (Again) with New Kind of Blue DB28XP

De Bethune is returning to their Kind of Blue concept within a new frame that combines the best of the DB28XP and the DB28 Kind of Blue to create the, you guessed it, DB28XP Kind of Blue. The new watch is trimmer than ever, and bluer than ever (insert Tobias joke here), and leans into the absolute best of DeBethune’s design language. It’s a smaller, thinner watch, but there’s still plenty of visual impact thanks to the wide frame that the lugs define. And as complex is it may look at a glance, at its core, there’s a very straightforward watch here.  The case and dial are made of thermally blued titanium with “microlight” pattern finish, and the result is stunning under any amount of light. It shifts between blue hues that pick up notes of purple at certain angles, and the finish creases a near liquid-metal appearance. All of this applied to the shapes and structures that De Bethune uses with the DB28 create an incredibly dramatic presence that will have you staring at the watch without a moment’s thought of the time. There are a set of hands reading off the hour and the minutes, but they feel secondary to the rest of the experience of this watch. De Bethune is using the thin, hand wound DB2115v12 movement with their own balance wheel, which is visible at the bottom of the dial, under the arch-like structure. The XP in the name denotes that this is an extra thin (plat) watch, and indeed it stands at just 8.5mm in thickness, but this isn’t a watch about the ...

Archimede Celebrates their 20th Anniversary with a Special Edition of their Outdoor Protect Worn & Wound
Aug 23, 2023

Archimede Celebrates their 20th Anniversary with a Special Edition of their Outdoor Protect

I will always have a soft spot for Archimede. Fun fact: an Archimede chronograph was the first video review I ever shot for Worn & Wound. This has always been a brand that offers a noticeably higher quality product than many of its competitors within its price point, largely riding on the strength of the incredibly well machined Ickler cases. Now, for the brand’s 20th anniversary, they’ve issued a limited run of their popular Outdoor Protect sports watch with a hardened DLC case and a small Easter egg that drives home the “outdoor” theme of the hybrid sports/field watch.  While Archimede is known primarily for their traditional pilot watches, the Outdoor line veers into a style more in line with funky sports watches from the 1970s. The case has a lugless design and gentle curves, and is one of those designs that just looks like it’s going to be comfortable when you get it on your wrist. Over the years, Archimede has updated the Outdoor in various ways, offering new case sizes, and adding a chronograph complication, but the basic gist of the watch has always been simple, sporty legibility with just a little bit of 1970s funk. The “Outdoor” moniker underscores the watch’s durability and the intention behind it: to be used as part of an active lifestyle. They didn’t call it the “Office” for a reason.  For the new limited run of Outdoor Protects seen here, Archimede has sand blasted the case, which measures 39mm, with a black DLC coating that gives the ...