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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Hands On: Breguet Classique 7225 SJX Watches
Breguet Classique 7225 Breguet has Nov 28, 2025

Hands On: Breguet Classique 7225

Breguet has enjoyed a great 250th anniversary year – one that promises to end with a big reveal in early December – with several commemorative editions launched for the occasion. The best of the lot, however, is undoubtedly the Classique 7225. Equipped with one of the most advanced time-only movements on the market, the Classique 7225 combines cutting edge modern watchmaking of the best industrial-haute horlogerie variety with an unexpectedly captivating aesthetic. Some of its details don’t quite make sense, yet the 7225 as a whole makes a lot of sense. Initial thoughts The Classique 7225 has a great deal of tactile appeal – it feels good on the wrist. In fact, the 7225 is probably the first Breguet in a long time that is sexy. If there’s one Breguet in today’s catalogue I really want, it’s this one. At 41 mm, the 7225 might measure large for such a watch, but the proportions are just right. The case is thin enough, while the wide dial maximises the impact of the guilloche on a gold base. If anything, the design might look odd with a smaller format, since the look comes from a pocket watch after all. Visually, the 7225 is striking and employs the classic Breguet style to great effect. Almost all the elements are familiar so the watch is recognisably “Breguet”, yet it different from the rest of the catalogue. The 7225 instantly looks like a Breguet, which shows its creators have an instinctive understanding of the brand. With its “floating” magnetic ba...

Fratello’s Top 5 Dive Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Omega, Doxa, Seiko, And More Fratello
Omega Doxa Seiko Nov 28, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Dive Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Omega, Doxa, Seiko, And More

Another Friday, another list! However, it’s not just any random list, as we kick off our look back at 2025 with this compilation. In this first installment of the year’s highlights, we take a look at dive watches. This has been the most popular watch category in recent times, so it is hard to pick […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Dive Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Omega, Doxa, Seiko, And More to read the full article.

Editorial: Reflections on Dubai Watch Week 2025 SJX Watches
Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour Nov 28, 2025

Editorial: Reflections on Dubai Watch Week 2025

Dubai Watch Week (DWW) returned for its seventh edition with a scale and ambition that surpassed every prior year. Staged in Burj Park under the shadow of the Burj Khalifa, the fair brought together 90 brands - roughly 60% more than the last edition in 2023 - and welcomed a remarkable 49,000 visitors over five days, up from just 23,000 two years ago. It was a week of new launches, discussion, and serendipitous encounters, all set against the backdrop of a temporary venue built in just six weeks but executed with the polish of a world-class exhibition. The mood was upbeat. Despite a challenging market environment, the energy at DWW suggested a resilient, forward-looking industry. Notable figures attended, including Dubai’s ruler His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum and Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour, further signalling the fair’s growing stature under the leadership of the event’s chief executive, Hind Seddiqi. This year’s event was held in Burj Park, which contributed to the jubilant atmosphere. Image – Dubai Watch Week Initial thoughts Rome wasn’t built in a day, but the impressive DWW venue was erected in just six weeks. The new Burj Park setting transformed a simple strip of waterfront into a miniature city, complete with large air-conditioned structures, full-service restaurants, and a visual identity befitting a major fair. Step outside at night and you were greeted with the laser shows of the Burj Khalifa reflected across t...

Finding A Vintage Perseo Italian Railway Watch In A Flea Market Fratello
Nov 27, 2025

Finding A Vintage Perseo Italian Railway Watch In A Flea Market

A few weeks ago, on a cool autumn morning in Bologna, I found myself wandering through a vintage market tucked between porticoed streets and the kind of cafés where the espresso machine never sleeps. Among boxes of old coins, war-era postcards, and lovingly worn leather jackets, a couple of small steel items caught my eye […] Visit Finding A Vintage Perseo Italian Railway Watch In A Flea Market to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Dubai Watch Week 2025 Highlights And Other Recent Releases Fratello
Nov 27, 2025

Fratello Talks: Dubai Watch Week 2025 Highlights And Other Recent Releases

Over the last few weeks, we’ve seen an unseasonal deluge of watch releases, with brands big and small unveiling fresh pieces at an incessant pace. Today, on Fratello Talks, we’re taking a moment to look back at some highlights and reflect on what stood out to us. Nacho, RJ, and Thomas are on the microphones […] Visit Fratello Talks: Dubai Watch Week 2025 Highlights And Other Recent Releases to read the full article.

Maurice LaCroix Aikon Review Teddy Baldassarre
Maurice Lacroix Nov 26, 2025

Maurice LaCroix Aikon Review

The watch industry only gets more and more competitive each year. Some brands have managed to thrive, and independent watchmakers are more game for the challenge than ever. Others, still, get somewhat lost within the mix. Today, I’m taking a deeper look at a brand that I honestly don’t hear much about, and, through the vehicle of its current flagship model, exploring what it has to offer. As you’ve already guessed from the title of this here article, the subject at hand is the Maurice LaCroix Aikon collection. Characterized by classic integrated bracelet style with a few specific quirks to the mix, the Aikon collection hasn’t managed to go mainstream like some similar competition. Down below, I’ll be walking you through a primer about the brand, the key ingredients of the Maurice LaCroix Aikon, and some personal ramblings on what the collection has to offer, and what it’s lacking.  [toc-section heading="Context"] Like many Swiss watch brands, Maurice LaCroix has a history that can be traced back to the end of the 19th century. However, that historical journey is among the more atypical out there. This 19th-century connection is the Maurice LaCroix ties to its parent company, Desco von Schulthess, which was founded in Zurich in 1889, and for many years, had nothing to do with watches. Initially starting in the silk trade, after WWII, Desco von Schulthess expanded into luxury goods and acted as a distributor for Swiss watches to the Asian market. In 1961, the co...

Introducing: Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie - Straw You Can Actually Clutch At Fratello
MB&F; Nov 26, 2025

Introducing: Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie - Straw You Can Actually Clutch At

You’re familiar with Max Büsser and his friends. The creations MB&F; produces are incredible, wondrous, and imaginative, but they’re also out of reach for the majority of watch enthusiasts. Let me introduce you to Schaefer & Companions, a brand recently founded in Le Locle that positions itself as an artistic platform. Christophe Schaefer, the brand’s […] Visit Introducing: Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie - Straw You Can Actually Clutch At to read the full article.

Complicated Collectors: Gerd Ahrens SJX Watches
Breguet pocket watch No 4763 Nov 26, 2025

Complicated Collectors: Gerd Ahrens

In the autumn of 1948, at Galerie Fischer’s auction house in Lucerne, a young Swiss watchmaker secured Lot 155, a Breguet pocket watch, No. 4763, circa 1848, with a straight-line club-tooth lever escapement. The case, fitted later by E. Brown at George Daniels’s suggestion to employ original movements and parts held in stock, aligned with his purpose. For most collectors, such a purchase might not have represented a pure Breguet. But for Gerd Ahrens, it was something altogether different: the first sentence in what would become a four-century narrative of mechanical ingenuity. Gerd Ahrens in his shop office on Schwanenplatz 7 around 1955. Image – Gerd Ahrens Foundation: a life built on wheels and springs Gerd Ahrens was born on September 18, 1920, in Hamburg, Germany, at a time when mechanical watches represented the pinnacle of portable precision. His father, Otto Ahrens, born in 1877, had already established himself as a highly respected watchmaker. Otto’s path, however, would be marked by the upheavals of the twentieth century. Before World War I, he had operated a successful shop in Paris and had built connections throughout the watchmaking centres of Inner Switzerland. The evidence of his skill was tangible: Otto personally built ten pocket watches, demonstrating not just commercial acumen but genuine mastery of the craft. Then the war came. Otto was forced to close his Paris shop in 1914, and the conflict left him penniless. A trained craftsman of the highest...

How Bronze Watches Patina Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 25, 2025

How Bronze Watches Patina

The bronze watch patina is one of the most fascinating, naturally occurring phenomena in watch collecting. So much so that it seemed every horological player wanted to put its own spin on this rugged, sea-worn metal around a decade ago. A lot has changed in watchmaking since then. Manufacturers have pushed boundaries further than we ever thought possible, offering enthusiasts a vast array of proprietary materials to choose from, with bronze taking its place alongside classic favorites like stainless steel and gold. Bronze watches remain a compelling choice among collectors today.  Article by Nina Scally [toc-section heading="Bronze Watches Context"]  Despite its association with maritime history, this corrosion-resistant material has infiltrated the pilot-watch sphere and established a foothold in the category of field watches as well. Today, bronze continues to cast its rich, warm nuances over some of the world’s most beautiful and evocative neo-vintage dive watches as well. Indeed, this ancient metal of seafaring legends appears to have secured its place on the wrists of watch enthusiasts for the foreseeable future. So there seems no better time than now to delve into how bronze has come to settle within the watch-collecting landscape, and why its slow-burning patina and rugged charm have cemented it as a modern collector’s favorite.  [toc-section heading="How Patina Develops"]  Would you ever walk into a dealership and ask, “Do you have something that’s alre...

Tudor Black Bay 54 Vs. 58 Comparison Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Nov 25, 2025

Tudor Black Bay 54 Vs. 58 Comparison Review

If the modern success story of Tudor can be attributed to the launch of one distinct collection, it is, undoubtedly, the Black Bay. Like any intelligent watch brand, Tudor has taken that success and run with it full speed ahead, riffing and launching distinct extensions and sub-collections within the Black Bay universe that, at this point, are designed to meet the wants and needs of just about every enthusiast out there. Today, I’m going to be putting two distinct lines within the Black Bay family head-to-head that are, to the untrained eye, quite similar, but take on the vintage-revival theme in two distinct directions: the Black Bay 54 and the Black Bay 58. Down below, I’ll get into the nitty-gritty of what these two members of the larger Black Bay family have in common, and the intricacies that, together, have profound effects on what they deliver. After our short and sweet history lesson, I’ll be diving right into the key details of the Tudor Black Bay 54 vs. 58, all while interjecting my own musings and philosophies on how to approach these subtle differences.  [toc-section heading="Tudor Black Bay Context"]  As always, I’m going to keep the history lesson as concise here as I can, but if you have a bit more time, I’d recommend checking out this complete guide to the Tudor Black Bay. Anywho, the story of the modern Black Bay begins at Baselworld in 2012 (initially dubbed the “Heritage Black Bay”). After years of struggling in the shadows of the Crown a...

Louis Vuitton’s Escale Dons Turquoise and Malachite SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Escale Dons Turquoise Nov 25, 2025

Louis Vuitton’s Escale Dons Turquoise and Malachite

Louis Vuitton expands the Escale line with a pair of limited editions featuring turquoise and malachite stone dials – and unusually, matching stone mid-cases. By integrating the case band in the same material as the dial, the brand elevates the familiar Escale silhouette into something more sculptural, while retaining the signature riveted form inspired by its historic trunks. The result is one of the more distinctive takes on the current stone-dial trend. The platinum-and-titanium construction allows for a double-walled case with a stone ring on the outside, giving the watch proper water resistance, while the larger 40 mm case creates space for colour and texture to shine. With only 30 pieces in each colourway, the editions reinforce Louis Vuitton’s ambition in high-end watchmaking. Initial thoughts This year has been a strong one for Louis Vuitton, an ambitious trunk maker seeking to prove itself as a serious watchmaker. It certainly has the industrial means to accomplish that through its control of Geneva-based La Fabrique du Temps and what is clearly a deep bench of design talent. The latest pair of Escales takes the stone dial trend to its logical next step: stone cases. Thanks to the upscale construction, it avoids the trap of feeling gimmicky, unlike, say, the Tissot Rockwatch. The quality is outstanding which helps rationalise the steep price tag. The distinctive construction of the Escale case makes it an almost ideal platform for the stone case band, so it is...

SJX Podcast: Live from Dubai Watch Week SJX Watches
Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour Nov 25, 2025

SJX Podcast: Live from Dubai Watch Week

Episode 20 of the SJX Podcast comes to you live from Dubai Watch Week 2025, which has just concluded. The event brought together many leading independent watchmakers, industry executives (including a rare appearance Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour), and perhaps most importantly a big audience of collectors from around the world. The new venue in Burj Park brought a more sophisticated feel to the event, which was by far the largest in its history. SJX and Brandon share their quick reactions on the final day of the fair. Note that given the recording environment, this episode has no video. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are Back with a New Limited Edition in a New Case Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Nov 24, 2025

Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are Back with a New Limited Edition in a New Case

If you read Worn & Wound with any regularity, you know that we’re pretty big fans of Louis Erard’s limited edition collaborative regulators around here. What can we say? There’s something incredibly fun and appealing about having a great independent watchmaker tied to a watch that’s on the accessible side. That said, there are fair criticisms of these limited editions, particularly as they’ve been “normalized” and we’ve all been conditioned to just kind of expect them two or three times per year. The one I hear most often is that Louis Erard is that each new collaboration effectively amounts to a dial variant, a skin grafted onto the the brand’s regulator format doesn’t necessarily reflect the creativity of the watchmaker being referenced. But on handful of occasions (like with Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter) Louis Erard allow themselves to expand beyond the dial and add flourishes to the case as well. These editions, in my mind, are even more effective because they represent another rung of ambition in this ongoing project. The brand’s latest collaboration, another release with Konstantin Chaykin, follows this tradition with a reimagined case construction and dial layout while maintaining a real connection to Chaykin’s aesthetic. The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Unforgettable is based on the Slavic myth of the Frog Princess, and the dial looks like, well, a frog, with big reptilian “eyes” at 9 and 3. If you’re used to Louis Erard’...