Hodinkee
Introducing: Bulgari Mattar Bin Lahej x Octo Finissimo
The brand re-envisions what an Emirati collab can look like, with impressive results.
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Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Ranger Review: New 36mm Case And "Dune" White Dial
Along with their more refined timepieces, Swiss luxury brands have staked their claim in the field watch space as well. Tudor’s offering in the category is the contemporary 39mm Ranger, a name that features prominently throughout the brand's history. Descended from the 1950s Tudor Oyster Prince Reference 7909, Tudor introduced the 34mm Ranger Reference 7995 in 1965, with the model name remaining in the lineup all the way through the 1980s. It was the 7995 that established the Ranger’s design language, with its 12-3- 6-9 dial layout and iconic spade hour hand, all of which later made a comeback in 2014 in a somewhat oversized 41mm version. The Ranger got a reboot in 2022 as a 39mm model, with a fully brushed case and COSC-certified MT5402 movement, and it serves as not only a nod to Tudor field watches of yore, but also as a throwback to the tool-watch aesthetics of the Rolex Explorer 1016 from Tudor's parent brand. Released in July of 2022 to mark the 70th anniversary of the British North Greenland Expedition, the modern Ranger 79950 is a welcome update from that discontinued 41mm model of 2014. With a versatile 39mm case and a COSC-certified manufacture movement, the Ranger is a strong value play, hovering around $3,500 on the bracelet. Much like the vintage Ranger (and the original Rolex Explorer that provided much of its DNA), it’s a fantastic daily driver, with a fully satin-brushed finish and 100 meters of water resistance. And if you crave a more authentic tool...
Monochrome
Introducing – Audemars Piguet Unveils an Innovative Setting Device for its RO Perpetual
Perpetual calendars are one of the most fascinating and elegant complications. Their sophisticated mechanism automatically adjusts the date throughout the year, accounting for the varying lengths of months and the leap year cycle, eliminating the need for manual correction. Yet one challenge is that if your watch stops, resetting it can be complicated, often requiring […]
Time+Tide
Teddy Baldassarre unveils his first-ever collaboration watch: a special edition Brew Metric
US-based microbrand Brew partners with influential content creator and watch retailer Teddy Baldassarre on a very special edition Metric.The post Teddy Baldassarre unveils his first-ever collaboration watch: a special edition Brew Metric appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Chopard’s Striking Vision Fully Realised – L.U.C Grand Strike
Chopard marks 30 years of the Chopard Manufacture with the L.U.C Grand Strike – its most ambitious complication to date, a minute repeating clock watch with grande et petite sonnerie striking on a pair of sapphire gongs. This comes on the heels of Chopard’s sister brand, Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance d’une Montre 3, making 2025 arguably the most significant year for Chopard, product wise, since the 1997 launch of L.U.C. Initial Thoughts For hundreds of years the sound of clocks coordinated human society. In fact, the very word “clock” comes from the Latin word clocca, meaning bell. Before the noise pollution of the modern day, the bells of clock towers could disseminate accurate time over several miles. It is only that many first complicated the first watches, which were made by clock makers during the 16th century, were equipped with strikes. In 2016 Chopard launched its first self-developed chiming watch, the L.U.C Full Strike, a two-train trip repeater with sapphire gongs. It is not much of a surprise, I’ve multiple people speculate that a grande sonnerie was the next step given the design depictions Chopard made with the Full Strike. Even the name, “Full Strike” sounds like the name of a grande sonnerie, not just a repeater. The Grand Strike is class leading technically, it’s only weakness, the middling strike work power reserve is easily forgiven when considering its size. Aesthetically, however, the watch struggles, at least for me, though the si...
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Watch Me Destroy A Rolex Day-Date With A Hammer! - 10 Reasons Why You Should Buy An Authentic Watch
SJX Watches
Highlights: Magnificent Matched Sets at Phillips Hong Kong
Matching sets are a motif of Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, with the most spectacular being the Concord Saratoga Splendour, a set of four minute repeating, high jewellery wristwatches representing the four precious stones – diamond, sapphire, ruby and emerald – each with a distinct movement made by Christophe Claret. Also on offer is a set of three watches from Glashütte Original with Meissen porcelain dials, and a Patek Philippe Pagoda quartet. Lot 857, a matching pair of Bovets depicting Hong Kong harbour by day and by night. Image – Phillips Such sets enjoyed popularity at the top end of the market during the 1980s and 1990s, often centred around the four precious coloured stones, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires. Perhaps the ultimate example of the matched set is the most complicated Patek Philippe watch, the Calibre 89, that was originally launched as a set of four in yellow, rose, and white gold, and platinum. Unfortunately, many of these sets have since been split up. Can these three escape that fate? Lots 858 to 862 – Concord Saratoga Splendour Set Concord was one of a few brands that saw great, but ephemeral, success during the 1980s and 1990s, in the same vein as Gerald Genta, Ebel, and Corum. In 1995 Concord launched the Saratoga Exor, a minute repeating tourbillon with perpetual calendar and bimetallic thermometer, set with 15.85 carats of baguette diamonds. With a price tag of CHF2 million, it was probably the second most expensive w...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s Split-Seconds Goes High Tech with Laser Sintering
TAG Heuer flexes its research and development muscles again with the performance-oriented Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1. Using the iconic square chronograph as a base, the brand’s engineers took inspiration from its Formula 1 partnership to explore new manufacturing techniques for this 30-piece limited edition that boasts an ultra-light, hollowed-out 18k gold case fabricated with laser additive manufacturing. Initial thoughts The original Monaco from Heuer remains one of the more enduring chronograph designs, with the storied past and distinctive square form. It is refreshing to see TAG Heuer using it as a base for newer, technologically-oriented pieces. This new limited edition takes the already-supercharged crystallised titanium split-seconds released earlier this year and reimagines the square case. The result is a honeycomb-patterned case that is surprisingly lightweight for the size and material. The complex and layered construction of the Air 1, here in an exploded view. The team at TAG Heuer employed a new additive manufacturing technique with the goal of a sturdy yet remarkably light chronograph. Keeping in mind that gold is a dense (thus heavy) metal, making a watch that qualifies as “lightweight” is usually incompatible with including the precious alloy. Here the engineers came up with a way to reduce the volume of gold used, while keeping the components’ sturdiness intact. The timepiece itself can be a little much in terms of styling, with the ...
Worn & Wound
Ressence Introduces a Type 1° with a Touch of Gold for Dubai Watch Week
Dubai Watch Week is here, and with it, so are a lot of new watches. Ressence is marking the moment with a new limited edition take on their Type 1°, pairing what is maybe the most core model in their lineup with a rose gold-plated dial to create something that feels both familiar and novel all at once. Produced in a limited edition of 70 pieces worldwide, this is the Ressence Type 1°RG. Ressence, as a brand, is many things to many people. For some, it’s a colorful, exuberant exploration of the fun side of independent watches - a very high-end G-SHOCK of sorts, a balm for the soul weighed down far too often by the staid and serious watches that so often clog our Instagram feeds. For others, Ressence is that staid, serious watch; a brand pushing to the extremes of what a watch can be, exploring not just the complexities of modern watchmaking, but challenging the very nature of how time can be displayed and perceived. Naturally, each of these slightly pretentiously phrased extremes captures only a part of the whole; like most things, the reality of Ressence falls somewhere in the middle of these two perspectives. Still, Ressence is a brand that deservedly invites interest, and this latest release is no exception. In practice, the Type 1° is the prototypical Ressence, a pretty straightforward summation of what it takes to be a Ressence watch, and, as such, it has often served as a platform for the brand to play with its own aesthetic. In the past, we’ve seen Ressence ...
Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces a Limited Edition Defy Extreme with a Lapis Lazuli Dial
I love the Zenith Defy. I never miss an opportunity to tell people that it’s my favorite sports watch line of all time. I’m guessing that I’ve had a version of this conversation so many times over the years that my colleagues and watch-friends can feel it coming at this point. I can sense that eye roll is not far behind me going over once again how the Defy has always represented the ideal meeting place between the avant-garde and true sports watch engineering. Look, I make no apologies. If you can’t see that the Defy has been a subtle influence on everything from the Royal Oak to the most generic Rolex sports watches, well, stay tuned for my long threatened multi-part solo podcast series unpacking my personal obsession with these watches. One of the things that has always fascinated me about the Defy is how it can be anything. The watches in this collection have never fit neatly into a specific mold, and unlike, say, the Rolex Submariner, which has basically looked like the same watch since its debut, the Defy has always been a shapeshifter. The only thing steady about the design has been that it could always morph and change into something radical and different, and often something that is not to everyone’s taste (even longtime fans of the collection). That’s basically what’s been on my mind since learning of the new Zenith Defy Extreme Lapis Lazuli, a maximal take on the sports watch that latches on to some current trends. This is a Defy Extreme, so it...
Time+Tide
Omega debuts its 4th generation of slimmer and sharper Seamaster Planet Ocean
A slimmer, sleeker case is the major change in the new 4th generation of Omega's legendary Seamaster Planet Ocean.The post Omega debuts its 4th generation of slimmer and sharper Seamaster Planet Ocean appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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WWT#66 - Is It Worth Spending Over $1000 On A Watch? Does Spending More Increase Enjoyment?
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This Approachable 38mm Dive Watch Goes Toe-to-Toe With Bigger-Name Alternatives
The Certina Action Diver 38mm gets subtle upgrades for 2025, including fresh materials and refined styling.
Worn & Wound
Teddy Baldassarre Launches His First Watch Collaboration: a Brew Metric
Teddy Baldassarre is a name that likely needs little context or introduction for many in our audience. What began as a YouTube channel focused on a discussion of watches has grown into a great deal more over the last several years. Teddy is an authorized retailer of over 50 brands, and has opened a flagship boutique in his home city of Cleveland, OH. He and his growing team are also a regular presence at industry watch events, where they provide coverage and insight on everything happening in a rapidly changing industry. Up until today, however, there was one right of passage in our shared watch ecosystem that they had not yet taken part in: the special edition collaborative watch. That changes today with the launch of the Brew Metric Teddy Baldassarre Edition. Brew, for their part, is no stranger to the collaboration game. We’ve partnered with Brew ourselves on a handful of limited edition releases, including the “Lumint” from earlier this year. A Brew collaboration is always an interesting endeavor because brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s designs can take on so many different forms and personalities with small changes to color, texture, and tone. For the Teddy Baldassarre Edition of the Metric, Teddy and Jonathan have chosen to experiment with tones of blue. The dial is a dark, nearly navy shade of blue, and the tone alternates from light to dark across the subdials and handset. There are a number of other little details on this edition that have been tweake...
Deployant
New: Ressence Type 1 Round Rose Gold
Ressence releases the latest addition to their popular Type 1 Round case with a rose gold model in a rose gold plated dial with a soft, copper luminescence.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Black Bay vs Omega Seamaster: Years Of Testing, One Clear Winner
Torn between the Tudor Black Bay and Omega Seamaster? We’ve worn, tested, and lived with both and here’s how they really stack up in comfort, specs, and value.
SJX Watches
Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Thin Onyx is German Formal
One of the last launches of 2025 for A. Lange & Söhne, the Saxonia Thin Onyx is a riff on the brand’s most affordable and simplest watch. It’s only modestly different from the standard model – the dial is onyx stone while the case metal isn’t part of regular production – but the Saxonia Thin Onyx stands out. The watch is almost the dictionary definition of a formal-wear timepiece: flat, two hands and minimal colour or embellishment, so much so it blends into conventional Western formal dress. In fact, this is one of the strongest offerings in the formal-dress-watch segment because it is stark, elegant, and priced well. Initial thoughts Lange tend towards the high end of the price spectrum simply because of the brand’s focus on complications and quality. And the brand has also raised retail prices significantly in the last few years. So an affordable-ish Lange that isn’t a run-of-the-mill watch is a good thing. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is exactly that. While it is based on Lange’s entry-level dress watch, a fine but no frills timepiece, the onyx edition is different in look, feel, and materials. It’s available in two metals not offered for the regular production – platinum and Honeygold – and the dial is of course onyx, a mineral stone used sparingly (so far) in limited editions. At 6.2 mm high, the case is half the thickness of a Datograph and sits flat against the wrist. Though the case is 40 mm rather than the smaller size offered for the standard mod...
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Best Chronograph Under $200 - Seiko SNA411 - 1 Year Follow Up + Moon Phase Watch Double Unboxing
Worn & Wound
WU25 Panel: Worn & Wound Contributors Discuss Trends and Watch Culture
Without Worn & Wound, there is no Windup Watch Fair, and this panel comprises W&W; contributors Brett Braley-Palko, Meg Tocci, and Griffin Bartsch as they discuss the state of watch collecting, shifting and emerging trends, and adjacent hobbies. It’s a lively conversation moderated by Director of Editorial at Worn & Wound, Zach Kazan, and a fantastic conversation about how passion and perspectives keep watch culture strong. A video of the full talk and Q&A; is below; a transcript is also provided for those who want to read the highlights. The following conversation has been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. Zach Kazan: Hello, everyone. Thanks for coming to the first panel of day two of the Wind-Up Watch Fair in New York City. I’m Zach Kazan, Director of Editorial at Worn & Wound, and I’m really happy to be moderating this panel. I’ve wanted to do a panel like this for a long time-just getting contributors together to talk about their interest in watches and how working in watch media influences their collecting and view on the hobby. I’m lucky to have three great contributors here who were willing to participate and humor me a bit. We have Griffin Bartsch, contributor for Worn & Wound. Griffin, thanks for being here. Griffin Bartsch: My pleasure. I try not to miss a Wind-Up. Zach Kazan: Your attendance has been duly noted and appreciated. We also have Brett Braley-Palko, who’s working the Estabrook booth in the EDC area of the show. Brett, great to have y...
SJX Watches
Tokyo Retailer Shellman Celebrates Christiaan Huygens
In order to mark the spiral hairspring’s 350th anniversary and celebrate its inventor Christiaan Huygens (1629 – 1695), Japanese watch retailer Shellman presents a two-week exhibition event in Tokyo, The Origins of Time = Astronomy. Opening November 19 and slated to run through December 2, the Shellman exhibit is a collaboration with the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH) in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and showcases the larger extent of Huygens’ work, from horology to optical observation devices. Themed around the Dutch scientist credited with building the first pendulum clock and with inventing the hairspring, the exhibit also explores larger fields of horology, with a focus on astronomy and modern independent watchmaking. Original drawings showing early attempts at making a sprung balance. Beyond his practical applications in horology, Huygens left marks on many other scientific fields, from geometry to physics and astronomy. He notably discovered Saturn’s largest moon Titan and cemented the wave theory of light propagation. One could say that he was interested in the celestial bodies as much as he was in understanding motion and measuring time here on Earth. In his honour, the exhibit leans on the astronomical theme as well. The exhibition is accompanied by a selection of special watches available for sale. Visitors will have the chance to acquire the world’s smallest wristwatch planetarium, the Planetarium Christiaan Huygens Limited Edition, created by the Du...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Fall 2025
A window into the early days of contemporary independent watchmaking, the upcoming Phillips Hong Kong auction offers an unexpectedly diverse line-up, including a single-owner collection of 1990s watches. The indie selection ranges from Daniel Roth in the late 1980s to Philippe Dufour’s influential finissage. And the historically-minded enthusiast will also notice the catalog includes work from an era when star independent watchmakers, such as Louis Cottier, counted brands as their clients. Lot 982 – Daniel Roth Ref. 2187 Tourbillon “Double Face” After helping establish Breguet as a Swiss watchmaker, Daniel Roth established his eponymous brand in 1988 with his inaugural model being the ref. C187/2187, a tourbillon wristwatch with two faces. The front indicates the time and showcases the tourbillon at six o’clock, while the reverse is home to the date and power reserve indicator. Despite the strikingly exotic look for the time – remember this was the late 1980s – the tourbillon actually employs the familiar Lemania tourbillon calibre, unsurprising given that Mr Roth helped with the construction of the calibre while he was at Breguet. While the bones are Lemania, the aesthetic is uniquely Daniel Roth. The grey dial has a pinstripe guilloche while the three-armed seconds hand indicates the time on a three-layer scale. Just last year, Louis Vuitton resurrected the Daniel Roth marque with a new generation of the iconic tourbillon powered by an all-new calibre deve...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Center Seconds, Small Seconds, And Mechanical Fauxtina
For centuries, small seconds were the only game in town. Today, they're an endangered species … kind of.
Hodinkee
Inside An A. Lange & Söhne Split-Seconds Chronograph
Exploring the intricacies of the rattrapante at A. Lange & Söhne.
Video
Affordable NON-HOMAGE Alternatives - Rolex Explorer, IWC Portuguese, Micheal Kors Lexington Watches
Hodinkee
Introducing: A Mighty Morphin' Montblanc With Hidden Complications
Maybe the real metamorphosis was the friends we made along the way?
Fratello
Nezumi Introduces A Stylishly Updated Version Of Its Baleine Dive Watch
Stockholm-based brand Nezumi is one I always keep a close eye on, and it has established quite a reputation for creating outstanding, affordable watches with retro style and vibrant colors. Nezumi truly understands the important role color plays in making watches stand out. One of the most popular models in the brand’s catalog is the […] Visit Nezumi Introduces A Stylishly Updated Version Of Its Baleine Dive Watch to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Celestia Astronomer Duo
Marking its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has approached the milestone with uncommon ambition. The anniversary programme continues with a duo of one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers pieces - Celestia Homage to Ptolemy and Celestia Homage to Copernicus - developed under the brand’s ongoing “The Quest” theme. These one-off creations showcase the manufacture’s dual mastery of horology and métiers d’art. Presented here is a rare hands-on look at both before they disappear into private collections. The pair follows an already packed year that opened with the debut of the Solaria, a landmark wristwatch that claims the title of the most complicated ever made thanks to its 41 functions. Soon after came La Quête du Temps, a monumental astronomical clock that recently wrapped up its exhibition at the Louvre in Paris. Taken together, these creations underscore not only the scale of VC’s technical reach but also the brand’s talent for blending engineering, artistry, and traditional craft. Initial thoughts Each of the new Les Cabinotiers watches expresses a different facet of VC’s watchmaking identity. The new Celestia references utilise the brand’s earlier cal. 3600, but elevate it through intricate case engraving that links science with art. As a pair, these watches reinforce the idea that VC’s greatest strength lies in synthesis. Few manufactures can move so fluidly between engineering precision and artistic refinement. As unique pieces, pricing is largel...
SJX Watches
Viridian Starfall: Orient Star’s M34 F8 Date
Among Japan’s best-kept secrets, Orient Star occupies an intriguing middle ground between tradition and technology. Its latest creation, the Orient Star M34 F8 Date Green, captures that duality perfectly by combining an old-school movement with state-of-the-art dial and escapement components drawn from the vast capabilities of its parent company, Seiko Epson. The result is a watch that feels distinctly Japanese in both spirit and execution. The M34’s new green dial is embossed with a hand-engraved stamp and coated with an optical multi-layer film that creates shifting hues without a trace of pigment - an effect more often associated with much costlier watches. Beneath its shimmering surface lies Orient Star’s enduring in-house F8 movement, which continues a lineage that dates back to 1971. Initial thoughts The dial of the M34 immediately distinguishes it within its segment. Its engraved texture, embossed from a hand-engraved die, gives the surface a natural radiance, while the iridescent green tone - created through a PVD-applied optical multi-layer film - shifts fluidly under changing light. It’s a distinctly upmarket look that signals the depth of the Epson manufacturing ecosystem behind it. The case reflects that same industrial prowess, made entirely in-house within Seiko Epson’s facilities, using 316L stainless steel finished with Sallaz (more commonly known as ‘Zaratsu’) polishing to achieve distortion-free mirrored bevels. The 40 mm size and ...
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Suit Up In Style, With 6 Refined & Surprisingly Accessible Dress Watches
As the year slowly comes to an end, the days get shorter and winter sets in, the festive season is upon us to warm our hearts. Whether you’re celebrating Thanksgiving, Hannukkah, Kwanzaa or Christmas, or all of them for that matter, it’s a time of joy, warmth and the comfort of friends and family. To […]
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