Hodinkee
Happenings: A Special Exhibition To Celebrate 250 Years Of Urban Jürgensen
Telling the history of an important name in watchmaking, with the help of a legendary scholar and collector.
Results for The COMEX Submariner Story
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
10 of D.C.’s favourites from Windup New York 2023
D.C. takes a stroll around the booths of Windup Watch Fair, a haven for enthusiasts, by enthusiasts.The post 10 of D.C.’s favourites from Windup New York 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Zenith & Aaron Rodgers Reveal New Green Chronomaster Sport Chronograph
Last year, Zenith announced a partnership with football player Aaron Rodgers at an event in Green Bay, WI, home of the Packers. That season would be Rodgers’ 18th and final year with the team. Zenith would stick by Rodgers through his move to the New York Jets (coincidentally, the team we saw the Packers lose to during the announcement event, which you can read about right here) and a subsequent week 1 injury that would sideline the decorated QB for much of the season (just ho long remains to be seen). We had the opportunity to once again speak with Rodgers and Zenith CEO Julien Tornare this week in New York to see the first horological collaboration between the two: a green on green Chronomaster Sport. The watch uses the hugely popular 41mm Chronomaster Sport platform that we’ve seen rendered in a variety of materials and colorways, though it’s presented here in a manner we’ve never quite seen before. The ceramic bezel is a deep green with the dial following suit, creating a uniform appearance that places gray toned sub dials at the center, changing the relationship between the two. Historically, the trio of overlapping, and oftentimes tri-color sub dials serve as the focal point of the design, and are instantly recognizable as a Zenith hallmark. Here, the sub dials each get a slightly different gray tone, but very much take a back seat to the color surrounding them. The green isn’t the only thing immediately different about this limited edition, however. The ...
Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces a Highly Complex Endeavour Limited Edition Combining Chinese and Gregorian Calendars
Moser’s latest, in a somewhat under the radar way, is easily one of the most ingenious technical achievements in watchmaking this year. The Endeavour Chinese Calendar Limited Edition expands on the principles of simplicity behind Moser’s excellent perpetual calendar by integrating a Chinese lunisolar calendar with a display for the 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac and phases of the moon, along with a Gregorian calendar. It’s a dizzying amount of information to be combined, and is even more confounding when you consider that unlike the Gregorian calendar, the Chinese calendar doesn’t have any repeated cycles, which makes it impossible to create a true “perpetual” Chinese lunisolar calendar. The way H. Moser and their partners at Agenhor have gotten around this is impressive. The Chinese calendar is based on the cycles of the moon, which means that months have 29 or 30 days (it takes the moon 29.53 days to orbit the earth). A total of 12 lunar months means that a lunar year lasts approximately 354 days on average, which is about 11 days shorter than a solar year as observed by the Gregorian calendar. This is the first hurdle in combining the lunar and solar calendars into one mechanism, but it’s even more complex than that. In a calendar that only observes lunar cycles, the months need to shift to keep pace with the seasons, with each month starting around 11 days earlier in every new solar year. This means that every two to three years, a thirteenth month is a...
Deployant
New: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Tara Ocean
Bell & Ross extends their Diver collection in partnershop with Tara Océan Foundation. Here is the new BR 03-92 Diver Tara Ocean in blue ceramic.
Quill & Pad
Why I Upgraded My D. Dornblüth & Sohn 99.1 Watch With A Handmade Ceramic Dial - Reprise
During a visit to D.Dornblüth & Sohn in eastern Germany, Bhanu Chopra noticed a new matte black ceramic dial in the workshop and loved the look so much that he asked the independent watchmaker to replace the more standard silver dial on his Dornblüth 99.1 with the new black one. And he's very pleased with the result.
Time+Tide
Zenith hulks out a new Chronomaster Sport with Aaron Rodgers
Zenith teams up with NFL quarterback Aaron Rodgers for their first-ever Chronomaster Sport Limited Edition.The post Zenith hulks out a new Chronomaster Sport with Aaron Rodgers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Celebrating “Hitchcocktober” as a Watch Enthusiast
Costumes, trick-or-treating, jack-o-lanterns, scary movies; October brings a whole host of traditions. And nobody did the latter better-or lent his name to a seasonal pun more easily-than Alfred Hitchcock, whom cinephiles everywhere venerate this month with “Hitchcocktober” marathons of the great director’s oeuvre. Movie buffs look for Alfred Hitchcock’s requisite cameo in his films, but there are rarer cameos for watch fans to keep an eye out for as well. Hitchcock’s films are timeless and, unexpectedly, mostly timepiece-less. Possibly the most famous Hitchcock watch-spot: Jimmy Stewart’s Tissot in Rear Window Hitchcock earned his reputation as the Master of Suspense over a 54-year directorial career that saw Hitchcock create classics like Rebecca (1940), Vertigo (1958), Psycho (1960), and The Birds (1963). His films are rife with plot twists and mistaken identity, playful avoidance of censors, and some of the most creative, and unnerving, visuals ever put to film. Hitchcock was the man who thought up a crop duster chase scene and a shower stabbing and a dozen other iconic scenes that have become among the most famous in film history. The British director was workmanlike in bringing his vision to life on screen. Hitchcock once remarked that he believed “actors should be treated like cattle.” Watches get similar treatment in his film-when they do appear they are never window dressing, they’re predominantly used to, well, tell time. Take, for example...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Philippe Dufour Simplicity Prototype No. 000 in Pink Gold
With “indies” all the rage now, auction catalogues usually have a generous helping of independent watchmaking. Amongst the many offerings from the genre this season, a handful stand out, including the Philippe Dufour Simplicity prototype no. 000 in Phillips’ Geneva watch auction that takes place on November 3 and 4, 2023. This is one of three prototype watches Mr Dufour made for the 2000 Basel fair when the Simplicity made its debut. Two of them were in white gold with a silvered guilloche dial – Mr Dufour himself frequently wears one of them – and the last was this watch, which is pink gold with a white lacquered dial. Initial thoughts Today Philippe Dufour has grown beyond the personality and is essentially a brand, an evolution that arguably took place after the 20th anniversary Simplicity was launched 2020. In contrast, this Simplicity prototype, along with the first 200 examples Mr Dufour made, encapsulates the artisanal beginnings of the man and his brand. At the time of the Simplicity’s launch, and for more than a decade after, Mr Dufour found neither fame nor fortune, given that he only made a handful of Simplicity watches each year and sold each for about US$40,000. The early watches are perhaps purer creations that capture the essence of Mr Dufour’s vision, which was to pay tribute to the heyday of Vallee de Joux watchmaking. Mr Dufour, of course, managed to do it slightly better, explaining why his creations are often regarded as having the best m...
SJX Watches
Aventurine Complications by Bucherer and H. Moser & Cie.
The collaboration between Bucherer and H. Moser & Cie. has given birth to a trio of timepieces: the Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine and two different takes on the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Aventurine. Bucherer, a renowned Swiss retailer with a global presence that was recently acquired by Rolex, has made blue dials a signature feature of its collaborations. While most Bucherer exclusives sport blue-finish metal dials, this trio have dials of aventurine glass, otherwise known as goldstone. It’s essentially glass with metallic inclusions that give it a speckled, sparkly appearance that evokes the night sky. Initial thoughts The combination of red gold and deep blue dials neatly aligns with both Bucherer’s and Moser’s respective aesthetics. This collaboration continues the retailer’s tradition of unique, blue-themed exclusives that are a variants of familiar models. It is worth noting the three timepieces are derived from models in Moser’s existing product range, including the aventurine dials. Furthermore, the movements, namely the HMC 904 with repeater and the HMC 804 tourbillon, remain unchanged. While this reflects the collaborative effort between Bucherer and Moser, it raises the question of whether even greater imaginative potential could have been explored by both entities. That said, the aventurine dials are appealing, though they come at a price. For instance, the Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine costs US$71,500, compared t...
Quill & Pad
New Release: Urwerk UR-100V Time & Culture II
In Ian Skellern's (far from humble) opinion, the Urwerk UR-100 is a breath of fresh air in the usually incredibly staid world of the dress watch. And the UR-100V Time & Culture II takes it to a whole new level.
Revolution
Parmigiani Fleurier X Revolution Tonda PF Micro-Rotor ‘Purple Reign’ | Revo Talks
Having previously encountered the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor series when it was first introduced in 2021, Wei proceeded to collaborate with Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, to craft a unique rendition, giving birth to the exclusive Parmigiani Fleurier × Revolution & The Rake Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Serenissima” limited to just 25 pieces which were sold […]
Revolution
Up Close with Parmigiani Fleurier X Revolution Tonda PF Micro-Rotor ‘Purple Reign’
The colour worn by nobility was specifically Tyrian purple. It is this association with royalty that inspired our timepiece’s evocative sobriquet, wrote by Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution Watch, “Color has always held a special fascination for me, particularly in the way the subtle control and modulation of hue is capable of extraordinary expression.” Our […]
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches: Ep. 66 - Windup Watch Fair NYC Special
Welcome to a special episode of A Week In Watches filmed live on the floor of our Windup Watch Fair New York. This episode features first hand looks at some of the new watches released at or around the fair with commentary from the people behind them. This year’s fair was our biggest ever, so unfortunately we weren’t able to get to all the new watches, but we pulled aside a handful of the most interesting watches caught our eye during the fair. This includes watches from Laco, Baltic, Isotope and more, along with some of the EDC brands that showed up this year. There was no shortage of exciting watches to check out, and as always, some incredible watch spotting in the crowd of enthusiasts that showed up. We’ll in-depth reviews and hands-on reaction from much more of the watches we saw at this year’s fair, including the exciting Isotope chronograph, the Baltic Hermetique, and the Laco DIN 8330, each of which feature in this video. Keep an eye out for the new watches that released outside of the fair this week, such as the exotic new Omega PO and ultra-light Ming, in our next episode, until then catch our live look at the Windup Watch Fair NYC 2023 below. Thanks to our lead sponsors: Oris, Christopher Ward, Zodiac, G-Shock, and Citizen for making such a great impression upon first walking into the fair! The post A Week In Watches: Ep. 66 – Windup Watch Fair NYC Special appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Spring Sprang Sprung 2023 - our picks for Best in Show
Our Best in Show top picks from the recent Spring Sprang Sprung show in Singapore - a showcase of micro-independent brands.
Quill & Pad
Urwerk UR-120 ‘Spock’: It’s Great to be A Nerd - Reprise
The Urwerk UR-120 is a thematic update for the UR-110 using what appears to be a very similar mechanism and dial layout. Even the case is generally the same. But while at first glance it shares much with the UR-110 in essence, when you start to compare the two this is a dramatically different watch, in particular when it gives you the Vulcan salute!
Quill & Pad
Zenith Defy Skyline: How to Kill Two Birds with One Watch - Reprise
The Zenith Defy Skyline is loosely based around the historical Defy, which had a faceted bezel (arguably the very first octagonal steel sports watch in 1969), but the Skyline switches it up to a dodecagon (12-sided polygon) and a bolder case silhouette. And this is not the only reason Joshua Munchow is so enamored.
Time+Tide
New releases from Omega, Spinnaker, Ming and more
For this week’s selection, we have a healthy mix of incredible timepieces from the highest echelons of watchmaking, and more cheerful collaborations that give the world of watches a more joyful edge. After years of competition between the big brands for the lightest watch, we have a new player in this race, with independent darling … ContinuedThe post New releases from Omega, Spinnaker, Ming and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Tissot Sideral S Powermatic, new for 2023
The Tissot Sideral S is yet another win for Tissot. It is a refreshing addition to the dominant PRX line, and the more predictable heritage line of classic 3 hands and 'large' Valjoux chronographs. The tonneau case itself is quite fun to see in Tissot's product mix of non-circle cases, and even better with forged carbon. The watch is a good size and highly wearable, lightweight compared to any steel, steel bracelet watches, and 300m water resistant for the occasional swimmers. For those who want something less colorful, a regular black strap or black OEM rubber strap will make the watch much more stealthy. The forged carbon is matte finished, and not as contrasting unless under bright sunlight. The colorful lume is also mostly muted. At least for the red version with the grey ring, the watch can be very muted when not on the red strap, which is the primary reason why I chose the red model. The watches are priced at US$995 before tax.
Deployant
TGIFriday: Shooting film is very expensive! Or is it really?
The war cry from film shooters is that film is expensive. Some even say it is more expensive than digital. We investigate to find out if this is true.
Time+Tide
Only Watch postponed, and a week of ultra-light watches
Earlier this week, after much conversation on horological social media, Only Watch announced that their biennial charity auction, which would have been held next month, has been postponed. The full press release from Only Watch on the postponement can be found here, but a key snippet of the announcement was: “A few days before the auction, … ContinuedThe post Only Watch postponed, and a week of ultra-light watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Alpina’s versatile Alpiner Extreme goes California dreamin’
Inspired by vintage dive watches, Alpina outfits the Alpiner Extreme with a fauxtinaed Cali layout.The post Alpina’s versatile Alpiner Extreme goes California dreamin’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Nodus Introduces a Limited Edition Sector Sport with Bronze Accents
One could argue that the core of a modern watch company is a competent sports watch. If that were true, it would be no surprise that LA-based Nodus Watches has really found its stride by building a strong catalog of durable, interesting models under $1,000. The so-called Sector Series encompasses – among others – Dive, GMT, and Pilot’s watches. The foundation of this line is simply called the Sector Sport, and today Nodus is adding a limited Sector Sport in steel and bronze. Based on the platonic ideal of a “sports watch” as it was defined in the mid-century, the Sector philosophy is grounded in two defining tenets: 1) an adaptable midcase amenable to varying finishes and future add-ons and 2) a sector dial demarcated by differences in texture and finishing. Specs-wise it means a 38mm x 12.5mm x 47mm case with 20mm lugs, accompanied by an H-link bracelet that tapers from 20 to 18mm. The bracelet also includes the proprietary Nodus NodeX clasp for on-the-fly adjustments. Inside is the Seiko NH38. While Nodus has historically iterated on the Sport with bold colors like Glacial and Marigold, it is taking a new approach with this bronze and steel reference. The anthracite dial is composed of two brass plates. One is the inner sector where the hour hand neatly terminates; the outer sector is home to gilt PVD-coated hour markers. The hands have the same gilt treatment and, paired with the dial, make for a warm and subdued aesthetic. The most noteworthy update here is t...
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward’s C1 Moonphase is their Most Ambitious Version of this Complication to Date, with a Gorgeous Aventurine Dial
Christopher Ward has been on a hot streak over the last year, with the introductions of the Bel Canto and the Twelve collection raising their profile with enthusiasts who veer toward the avant-garde and a style of sleek sports watch that’s in fashion at the moment. These watches have been met with a certain degree of, “Oh, I didn’t know Christopher Ward could do that…” by crops of skeptics who have since been won over. But the fact is, Christopher Ward has been upending expectations and redefining what the brand could be for years. For many in the collector community, a watch that really signified the brand branching out was the C1 Moonglow, which Zach Weiss reviewed here in 2019. A combination of an intricately layered dial design execution and liberal applications of lume in an inherently playful complication was a sign that Christopher Ward had even more ambitious ideas they were willing to play with, and now they’ve introduced a long awaited follow-up to the Moonglow, the C1 Moonphase. Christopher Ward describes this watch as their most ambitious moonphase to date, and it feels very much a part of this newer crop of Christopher Wards that really push the envelope in terms of design, reaching toward ideas that have typically been associated with haute horlogerie in the past. The C1 Moonphase features an aventurine dial, a material often associated with the moonphase complication because of its resemblance to the night sky. Aventurine is essentially glass tha...
Deployant
New: NOMOS Glashütte Metropolitan 33 in Silver, Sage and Muted Red
The NOMOS Glashütte Metropolitan 33 is a beautiful watch that comes in three variations: silver, muted red, and sage. The watch has a diameter of 33mm and a thickness of 7.5mm, making it a perfect fit for both men and women. The watch is water-resistant up to 5 ATM (50 meters)
Quill & Pad
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph: Let There Be (Sun) Light! - Reprise
What makes the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph so pleasing is that it offers everything we have come to expect from the Aquaracer collection and more. It comes in a stainless steel case with matte black DLC coating and some extra-special lume to illustrate its sun-loving movement.
Deployant
New: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan - Invention #8.
Greubel Forsey unveils their 8th invention - the Tourbillon Cardan has three separate rotating and tilting platforms to make a very complicated watch.
Time+Tide
Australian Indigenous artist Otis Hope Carey on his collaboration with Longines
The Gumbaynggirr/Bundjalung man, artist and professional surfer explains the significance of his collaboration with Longines.The post Australian Indigenous artist Otis Hope Carey on his collaboration with Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Review: Patek Philippe Pilot Annual Calendar Travel Time
Patek Philippe has no meaningful history of pilot’s watches, so the 2015 advent of the Calatrava Pilot collection was both an exercise in grasping at straws and a flight of fancy. The Pilot Annual Calendar Travel Time 5326G breaks new ground in design while offering enough features to justify itself
Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar Debuts their new Humboldt GMT in Titanium
Windup NYC is a wrap, and the festivities saw the debut of many new watches from a huge variety of brands. Oak & Oscar is a Windup mainstay and a core part of the microbrand space (a term which admittedly seems less and less adequate as the years go by and these shows get bigger and bigger, but that’s a topic for another day), and they took the opportunity to debut a new flavor of an old favorite over the weekend, the Humboldt GMT in titanium. It’s immediately recognizable as an Oak & Oscar and will slot nicely into their existing catalog, but offers a handful of new details and innovations that show the Chicago based brand is still interested in moving forward and expanding the idea of what an Oak & Oscar watch should be. The big news here is the titanium case. The Humboldt GMT in titanium is made from the grade 5 variety, and comes in at a weight of just 74 grams when mounted on a leather strap. It comes in at 39.5mm (with a bezel overhang of 0.5mm) and is 46.8mm from lug to lug. According to the brand, it’s 20% lighter than the original Humboldt GMT in stainless steel, which equates to a difference you’ll really notice on the wrist. It immediately makes the watch sportier based on ease of wear alone. For the dial, we get a dark green shade, which is the same tone used on the green Olmsted. Like many other Oak & Oscar watches, this one has a sandwich dial construction, which allows for tons of contrast via lume that is present under the main dial layer. There...