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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Complicated Collectors: Thomas Engel SJX Watches
Breguet Thoughts Oct 30, 2025

Complicated Collectors: Thomas Engel

Every great collection is a reflection of its owner. In the case of Thomas Engel (1927-2015), the imprint is unmistakable; the mind of an inventor, the discipline of a scientist, and the independence of a man who built his fortune by intuition and sheer will. Engel lived through war, displacement, and postwar scarcity, only to reinvent himself in the 1950s as a pioneer of polymer chemistry. By the time he turned to horology, he had already registered more than a hundred patents, licensed his inventions to multinational firms, and been hailed as a ‘modern Edison.’ The story that follows is drawn from Engel’s own accounts, above all his two books - Breguet: Thoughts on Time and Ein Moderner Thomas Edison - which preserve his memories, methods, and reflections. They allow his voice to guide the narrative, from his earliest mistakes to his most celebrated acquisitions, and from his inventions in plastics to his interpretation of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s works. Engel brought to collecting the same qualities that had defined his scientific career: a commitment to verification, a reliance on systematic method, and an instinct for invention. Each watch he acquired was studied as an instrument, its mechanism understood and its history traced. To hold a Breguet, for Engel, was to engage in dialogue with a fellow inventor across centuries. The man Thomas Paul Engel was born in Leipzig in 1927, amid the uneasy calm between wars. His father, a textile merchant dealing in fin...

Grand Seiko SBGN003 Review: A Discontinued GMT And Its Successor Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Oct 29, 2025

Grand Seiko SBGN003 Review: A Discontinued GMT And Its Successor

Japan’s Grand Seiko has become, in a relatively short span of time, one of the world’s most prestigious and collectible high-luxury watchmakers, competing for connoisseur attention and dollars with well-established maisons from Switzerland and Germany. And while its success is a 21st century phenomenon, Grand Seiko is not really a “new brand” in the strictest sense. The first Grand Seiko watch (below) debuted all the way back in 1960, part of the much larger product portfolio of Japanese watchmaking giant Seiko, which was founded in 1881 and achieved its worldwide fame by embracing the mass market with timepieces at accessible prices with wide distribution. The Grand Seiko, by contrast, was positioned as the megabrand’s exclusive “King of Watches,” with standards of accuracy, beauty, durability, and legibility that could meet or surpass its Swiss competitors. Today we'll take a look at the Grand Seiko SBGN003, a recently discontinued Quartz GMT that thankfully seems to have a solid heir apparent. Until 2010, it was also Japan’s best-kept horological secret, not exported to markets outside the country. Seven years after its international expansion, having cultivated a loyal and avid audience worldwide, an entirely new and distinct customer base apart from mainline Seiko’s, Grand Seiko firmly established itself as an independent brand - albeit one still intrinsically tied to its parent company through shared history and technology. In fact, just about a d...

Citizen’s Cutting-Edge Quartz Shines in Recrystallised Titanium SJX Watches
Citizen s Cutting-Edge Quartz Shines Oct 29, 2025

Citizen’s Cutting-Edge Quartz Shines in Recrystallised Titanium

The new Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine collection leans into the brand’s two greatest strengths: cutting-edge quartz technology and mastery of titanium. With three limited edition references in a new platinum-coloured hue, Citizen demonstrates why it’s still the leader in titanium watches, 55 years after making the first one. Thanks to a decadent recrystallised titanium bracelet and nearly scratch-proof Duratect coating, the new Attesa proves that quartz can still feel luxurious. Ref. CB0284-66A. Initial thoughts Almost as soon as quartz timekeeping technology began to mature and prices began to fall in the 1980s, makers of quartz watches began to cede the luxury end of market to brands that focused on mechanical watches. But that never stopped a few brands, Citizen and Seiko chief among them, from pursuing the development of ever-better quartz technology and bringing it to market in a premium format. The ultimate expression of this focus is probably the Citizen cal. 0100, the most accurate wristwatch in the world. The Citizen 0100 – the world’s most accurate wristwatch. But quartz is just one part of the equation for Citizen, which has also achieved a leading market position in two specific fields. The first is solar power. Light-powered watches is nothing new, dating back to 1972, but it was Citizen’s advances in the late 1970s that propelled this technology forward. In 1995, the brand debuted Eco-Drive, which remains the leading light in solar-powered timekeep...

Exaequo Adds New References to their Lineup of Dali Inspired Melting Watches Worn & Wound
Cartier Crash Oct 28, 2025

Exaequo Adds New References to their Lineup of Dali Inspired Melting Watches

It’s hard to overstate the impact that Salvador Dalí-and, by extension, the Surrealist movement-had on popular culture. What might now feel like a strange detour in an art history textbook was, in reality, a radical reimagining of what art could be. Dalí’s obsession with the unconscious, symbolism, and dream logic reframed art as a psychological response to culture, rather than just a mirror of it. In doing so, Surrealism paved the way for the Avant-Garde, Pop Art, and the way we think about art today. It’s no surprise, then, that Dalí’s legacy continues to ripple through design and (not to be dramatic here) time itself. Brands have long used his vision as a jumping-off point for their own explorations of time and perception, most notably, of course, through reinterpretations of some of Dali’s most famous works, like his 1931 The Persistence of Memory. The Cartier Crash, with its iconic “melting clock” case, is probably the most famous representation of this style; but it is not the only one. In fact, Exaequo has been producing its own version of a melting watch since 1990, with its latest references, the Polyhedron series, debuting at Time to Watches in Geneva earlier this year. While there will undoubtedly be comparisons between Cartier’s and  Exaequo’s two versions of a wobbly little timepiece, there is a marked difference between the two brands’ approach to the same reference source (not least of all the price). For the Polyhedron,  Exaequo...

Fratello On Air: Seiko’s Triumphant Return Fratello
Seiko s Triumphant Return Welcome Oct 28, 2025

Fratello On Air: Seiko’s Triumphant Return

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss the triumphant return of Seiko to the forefront of value-laden watchmaking. For some, perhaps the massive Japanese company never left. From our perspective, though, 2025 has been a turning point. We feel that the brand has truly listened to its fan base and […] Visit Fratello On Air: Seiko’s Triumphant Return to read the full article.

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 1 - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Grand Seiko SBGH368 Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGH368 Welcome Oct 28, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 1 - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Grand Seiko SBGH368

Welcome to the first round of the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our effort to identify the best new dress watch of 2025. If you thought we’d kick the series off quietly, you are mistaken. The first match in round 1 immediately sees a major clash of entirely different watchmaking philosophies. Lex defends the Grand […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 1 - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm Vs. Grand Seiko SBGH368 to read the full article.

In-Depth: J. Player & Son Supercomplication – All 77 mm of It SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1518 Oct 28, 2025

In-Depth: J. Player & Son Supercomplication – All 77 mm of It

Phillips’s upcoming sale in Geneva has the most attention-grabbing roster of the Geneva auctions, including the return of a record-setting Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in steel. Yet it was the J. Player & Son No. 11’901 that most affected me. Dubbed the “hyper” complication by Phillips, the watch belongs to a rarified group of swan-song supercomplications that memorialise the final days of English fine watchmaking. Despite being over a century old, the watch easily holds its own against the fine watchmaking of today, both in decoration and mechanics. By the turn of the century, the traditional watchmaking centers of England and France were besieged by vertically integrated American super-factories from the West, and cheap but skilful Swiss labour from the East, both of which benefited greatly from mechanisation. During the waning years of English fine watchmaking, the most prestigious firms responded by attempting to move even further upmarket with highly complicated watches, and the firms remained confident in the appeal of their products. “If they are more expensive, as they must necessarily be, they last the purchaser a lifetime,” said a representative of Nicole, Nielsen & Co., the company that built this watch, said of English watches in 1912, “The better classes, indeed, have always bought, and will always buy, English-made watches, and will not buy any others”. Swiss prelude This watch started life in Switzerland as ebauche number 7’321, according to Fr...

Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Review: Tudor's Best Dive Watch Yet? Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Oct 27, 2025

Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Review: Tudor's Best Dive Watch Yet?

The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy was released at this year's Watches & Wonders to nothing short of acclaim by enthusiasts. Not just a fresh color, this is a redesigned Tudor Black Bay 58, essentially from top to bottom. What you’re looking at is the next generation of everybody’s favorite Black Bay size, and it debuts in a color you simply cannot ignore, and one tied to Tudor history. The Burgundy Black Bay 58 took the burgundy color usage of Black Bays from the past while leaning into the bright color scheme much more boldly than before. Rather than just adding another bezel color, Tudor decided to make the whole dial and front of the case a study in this shade of red. Where the past few years have seen Tudor experiment with satin-finished dials in its hardcore sports watches, from the Pelagos to the Black Bay 54, the 58 range has been steadfast in its use of matte or textured dial surfaces. That all changed with this iteration, as we get a punchy, sunburst burgundy dial color. You might think this is an infusion of modernity in a model known to harken back to the past, but it isn’t. It’s just harkening to a different moment in time – to a watch that Tudor never technically released. Indeed, that would be a certain 1990s Tudor Submariner Ref. 79190 prototype that had a similar red bezel/red dial combination. And while that watch never made it to the production stage, it heavily influenced the brand’s decision when it released the very first Black Bay with a bu...

Editorial: Reflections on WatchTime New York 2025 SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 Initial Oct 27, 2025

Editorial: Reflections on WatchTime New York 2025

Autumn has always been a special time in New York, and that’s especially true now that the city plays host to the nation’s flagship watch fair. Held each October in the heart of Midtown, WatchTime New York has become one of the most high profile public watch fairs in the United States, bringing together independent watchmakers, major brands, and collectors under the imposing dome of Gotham Hall. Now in its tenth year, the 2025 edition was the largest yet, and served as the backdrop for the public unveiling of a few notable watches (and one strap). The Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2. Initial thoughts This was my third year attending WatchTime, and the experience is remarkably consistent from year-to-year. That said, this year’s event was clearly the biggest yet, with 44 brands and more than 2,700 visitors. Despite this turnout, it’s still a fraction the size of an event like Watches & Wonders, which gives it a more intimate feel that reminds me of SalonQP, which was an annual watch fair in London put on by now-defunct QP magazine. In other words, it’s big enough to attract big names and small enough to allow the general public to meet watchmakers that they might not otherwise have access to; Kari Voutilainen, Stepan Sarpaneva, Martin Frei of Urwerk, Albert Edelmann of Zeitwinkel, and Roland Murphy of RGM were present throughout the fair to engage with collectors. A big turnout Not only did WatchTime attendance set a record, the nearby Windup Watch Fair, a free event f...

SJX Podcast: Freak Face-Off: Original vs. Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak – how does Oct 27, 2025

SJX Podcast: Freak Face-Off: Original vs. Freak S

On Episode 16 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss ongoing horology events in Paris and Singapore, and debrief on the new Piaget Andy Warhol. It’s also the debut of a new segment comparing two watches head-to-head. First up is the Ulysse Nardin Freak – how does the original, now 25 years old, stack up to the new Freak S? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

A History and Guide to Field Watches Worn & Wound
Oct 26, 2025

A History and Guide to Field Watches

Enthusiasts are constantly searching for the perfect GADA watch; that is, a “go-anywhere, do-anything” watch. One ready for everything from a beach holiday to the office to weekend DIY projects and everything in between. Enter the field watch. Designed for the rigors of war, it now serves as the perfect go-anywhere companion. Constantly evolving throughout the 19th century, the entrenched warfare of the Crimean War and First World War forcibly altered the tactics of Europe’s armies. The ability to sync artillery and multiple infantry units across a front was of the utmost importance. As the (perhaps apocryphal) story goes, the pocket watch traditionally worn proved inconvenient for those at the front. A new class of watches, titled “Campaign,” “Wristlet,” and “Service” watches by various manufacturers, arrived to meet the needs of Europe’s armies. Enthusiasts are constantly searching for the perfect GADA watch; that is, a “go-anywhere, do-anything” watch. One ready for everything from a beach holiday to the office to weekend DIY projects and everything in between. Enter the field watch. Designed for the rigors of war, it now serves as the perfect go-anywhere companion. Constantly evolving throughout the 19th century, the entrenched warfare of the Crimean War and First World War forcibly altered the tactics of Europe’s armies. The ability to sync artillery and multiple infantry units across a front was of the utmost importance. As the (perhaps apoc...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Oct 26, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another epic watch battle. In this week’s showdown, we selected two stainless steel and gold watches with integrated bracelets to go up against each other. The first is the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty in steel and yellow gold. Released just a few weeks ago, it’s a proper statement […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm to read the full article.

eBay Finds: Vintage Watches from Seiko, Benrus, Timex, and More! Worn & Wound
Seiko Benrus Timex Oct 24, 2025

eBay Finds: Vintage Watches from Seiko, Benrus, Timex, and More!

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Timex Diver Here’s a nice little vintage Timex diver to start us off this week. Timex has definitely had a resurgence of late with them re-issuing older models for that retro look. Their original vintage offerings were definitely on the…more affordable side. That said, they are still cool and have some classic cache if you ask me. This 1970’s diver style watch has a chrome plated case that looks to be in good shape, and a plastic bezel that looks great. The dial and hands have a nice design to them and they are in excellent condition as well. The watch is powered by an early Timex non-quartz electric movement that runs fine per the seller. Neat piece that should be affordable and fun to wear. View auction here Vintage Seiko 7009-8109  Next up is a vintage Seiko 7009-8109, complete with original bracelet, box and papers. This is one of those everyday type Seikos, not really a dress watch and not really a sports watch, sort of an in betweener. The 37mm steel cushion case looks to be in nice shape, with some marks from aging but still showing the original brushed finish. The blue dial looks great, with simple stick markers and hands, and the always-present Seiko day/date win...