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All Rolex Day-Date References (President) Rolex

Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).
Zenith Looks to the Jungle for a Wild New Limited Edition Defy Extreme Worn & Wound
Zenith Looks Dec 3, 2024

Zenith Looks to the Jungle for a Wild New Limited Edition Defy Extreme

One of my favorite pastimes within the world of watch enthusiasm is to tell anyone who will listen that the “Leopard” Rolex Daytona is my favorite version of the storied chronograph. When the Daytona comes up in conversation (and it does, a lot) I’m always ready to share that the intricate gem and diamond set version inspired by leopard prints and favored by Nicolas Cage is my favorite example. This assertion is only half a joke – I really do admire craftsmanship inherent in these watches (which is somewhat uncommon for Rolex) but mostly I like that the watch exists as a transgressive alternative to the norm. And what better way to do that than with a watch inspired by big cats and the jungle? The new Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle, a watch which immediately made me think of my favorite Daytona, knows that there is, in fact, no better way to gently push on the expectations of the typical watch enthusiast.  There’s an important distinction to be made between this new watch from Zenith and the Daytona, and that’s that the Leopard Daytona is, in every way, an outlier in the Daytona collection and for Rolex as a whole. The Zenith Defy Extreme, and the Defy line more generally, are made up almost entirely of outliers. In other words, it’s not actually that strange to see a jungle inspired Defy Extreme when we’ve already seen high concept Defys taking on various themes over the course of many years. This isn’t even the first time Zenith has played with the “jung...

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The Evergreens – A Comprehensive Overview of Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar, and How the Complication Came to Life Monochrome
Patek Philippe s Annual Calendar Nov 29, 2024

The Evergreens – A Comprehensive Overview of Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar, and How the Complication Came to Life

Calendar indications are a classic of watchmaking. But not all calendar watches are born equal. As our own Xavier Markl explained in this Technical Perspective article, calendar watches range from basic date displays to the ultra-rare and highly complex secular calendar mechanism and everything in between. Next to the highly praised perpetual calendar, there is […]

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The Evergreens – An Extensive Look at the Entire Tudor Black Bay Lineage from 2012 to 2024 Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay Lineage from Nov 8, 2024

The Evergreens – An Extensive Look at the Entire Tudor Black Bay Lineage from 2012 to 2024

It is pretty impressive to see how Tudor’s Black Bay models have established themselves as more accessible options to the Rolex Submariner in a relatively short period of time without compromising on quality. But more than just being a more accessible Submariner, the Black Bay has gained its own status over the years, becoming an […]

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Business News: LVMH Close to Formula 1 Sponsorship Deal SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton would have Sep 6, 2024

Business News: LVMH Close to Formula 1 Sponsorship Deal

The rumours have been swirling for some months that LVMH has replaced Rolex as a key sponsor of Formula 1. As we noted in our July editorial, that wasn’t true yet. According to a source inside F1, LVMH and Formula One Group are on the cusp of a multiyear sponsorship deal starting in 2025. The French luxury group will join Lenovo and Santander as the latest sponsors of F1. Once signed, the deal will mean that LVMH takes the place of Rolex, which had been “Global Partner” of F1 since 2013. The group is not new to F1. TAG Heuer is now a sponsor of Red Bull Racing, while Dior only just signed up Lewis Hamilton as a brand ambassador. But now the group’s many brands – 75 at last count – could stand to gain even more exposure with F1. Marques like Moët & Chandon, Hublot, Loro Piana, and of course Louis Vuitton would have the chance to share in the increasing viewership of the sport, which has been steadily growing its presence in pop culture since it was acquired American media conglomerate Liberty Media in 2017. Besides adding races in glamorous cities like Miami, F1 is now the subject of a hit television series on Netflix. And a film starring Brad Pitt, titled F1 naturally, will premiere on Apple TV next year. LVMH Watch Division chief Frédéric Arnault (third from left) at the 2023 Monaco Grand Prix with the drivers of Red Bull Racing. Image – TAG Heuer TAG Heuer returns More importantly, an F1 deal will be a return to form of sorts for TAG Heuer, the biggest ...

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A New Collaboration Between Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein is Meant to Make You Smile Everyday Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Jun 27, 2024

A New Collaboration Between Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein is Meant to Make You Smile Everyday

The last time we brought you news of a Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein collaboration, it was one of their most ambitious efforts to date, a Swiss tourbillon coming in under CHF 16,000, which brings a different angle to Louis Erard’s stated goal of making luxury watchmaking accessible. When that watch was released, Louis Erard promised additional collaborations to follow, and today we see the next step in their partnership. The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Smile-Day adds a new colorway to a fan favorite format, and shows that there’s still gas left in the collaboration tank.  The Smile-Day is a stand-alone version of the “La Semaine” concept that we’ve seen Louis Erard and Silberstein experiment with a few times now. This watch essentially takes a day-date complication and replaces the “day” with a series of smiling emojis. It doesn’t actually help you keep track of the calendar, but it’s a fun and whimsical idea, and has always felt like a great match to Silberstein’s playful use of color and shape. The wearer is invited to adjust the “day” to the emoji that most fits their mood, or perhaps the emoji that most fits the mood they want to be in.  Previous versions of this watch have appeared with black and drab green dials, but this has a very different personality with a light gray dial. It’s complemented by light blue hour markers and a matching oversized minute hand, with a red hour hand and bright yellow seconds hand. As with earlier exampl...

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First Look – A New Rose Gold Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” Monochrome
Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai Jun 26, 2024

First Look – A New Rose Gold Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge”

Abraham-Louis Breguet is often regarded as one of the founding fathers of modern watchmaking. Through numerous inventions and the so-called unmistakable signs, he firmly imprinted his mark on the industry. On this date, June 26th, 1801, A.L. Breguet patented what would become his most famous invention, the tourbillon regulator. As a tribute to the genius […]

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A Hands-On Introduction To Two New Bicolor Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Models Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Models Jun 4, 2024

A Hands-On Introduction To Two New Bicolor Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Models

Today, Omega is expanding its Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch collection with two new bicolor/two-tone models. It’s an exciting day for those who may have wanted the latest movement and updates but found the all-steel models too boring and all-gold versions too expensive. In other words, these two new Moonwatch variants could be the perfect middle ground. […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To Two New Bicolor Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Models to read the full article.

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Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Apr 26, 2024

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches

Tudor returned to the U.S. market after a lengthy absence in 2013 and the Rolex-owned brand had its first big hit in this modern era with the launch of the Black Bay (originally the Heritage Black Bay), a stylish, sporty divers’ watch, with a plethora of historical details drawn from Tudor dive watches of yore. In 2018, in response to growing consumer demand both for more modest case sizes and for greater period authenticity in vintage-style timepieces, Tudor introduced the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, which proved to hit the sweet spot for many contemporary enthusiasts. Named for the year 1958, in which Tudor released the Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7924, the most clear forerunner to the Black Bay, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight models match that watch’s 39mm case diameter, which is downsized from the 41mm-to-43mm sizes still common to the core Black Bay series. Since its launch, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight has become one of the most popular extensions of the expanding Black Bay collection, and has been the stage for Tudor’s recent (and historically rare) forays into the realm of precious metals. Descended From a Prince: Black Bay DNA The aesthetic origin of the Black Bay starts with the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, released in 1954, one year after big brother Rolex rolled out its own much more famous purpose-built dive watch, also called the Submariner. This original version, Ref. 7922, used the same “Mercedes” handset found on many Rolex models and was water-resistan...

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History of Divers’ Watches: Voyage to the Bottom of the Ocean Quill & Pad
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Apr 11, 2024

History of Divers’ Watches: Voyage to the Bottom of the Ocean

It is often said that it is easier to send a person to the Moon than to the ocean floor because of the extreme conditions found at great depths, such as no visibility and overwhelming pressure. However, in 1960 a wristwatch (Rolex “Deep Sea Special”) accompanied mankind to the deepest ocean floor even before it accompanied mankind to the Moon in 1969 (Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch).

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A Guide to Modern California Dials Worn & Wound
Panerai which has featured watches Feb 16, 2024

A Guide to Modern California Dials

The watch industry is rife with examples of watch brands turning to the past for new releases. The interest in vintage designs has led to some fun and unique long-forgotten or long-inaccessible designs finding a new audience. Consider the Timex World Time 1972 Reissue bringing some 70s funk to the 2020s. Or the Tudor Black Bay 54 giving Rolex Submariner fans the closest thing you can get to an original Sub without spending tens of thousands of dollars. And now, in the last few years watch brands have seen fit to revisit one of the most interesting and obscure vintage designs out there: the California dial. The California dial is the nickname given to watches that have Roman numerals on the upper half of the watch and Arabic on the lower half, typically with lines at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock spots and a triangle at the 12. This unique dial has a strong association with Panerai, which has featured watches with the dial in its catalog for some time now, but, like many developments in watchmaking, it was actually created by Rolex. Patented in 1942, the dial was originally known as the “error-proof” dial, designed to be more easily read because the different style numerals “clearly distinguishes these two halves” of the watch and “the Roman numerals chosen are those which are the simplest to perform and the easiest to read.” (Seems unnecessary, but it certainly wound up looking cool.) The modern PAM01349 The error-proof dial picked up the “California” moniker w...

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How to use a slide rule bezel Time+Tide
Nov 3, 2023

How to use a slide rule bezel

We can all pretty much agree that pilot’s watches are awesome, whether or not it’s a historical legend or something more contemporary. There’s something about their utilitarian approach which is inspires our day-to-day lives, letting our imaginations soar whenever we check the time. That said, most pilot’s watch owners don’t actually fly planes. But, if … ContinuedThe post How to use a slide rule bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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ochs und junior Take Inspiration from a Classic American Design Duo with the mese 2.23 Worn & Wound
Oct 3, 2023

ochs und junior Take Inspiration from a Classic American Design Duo with the mese 2.23

New from ochs und junior, a new execution of their “mese” time and date watch, as part of their more value oriented “ochs line” of watches. Ochs und junior has been a point of fascination here at Worn & Wound for a long time. They work within a truly distinct design language that’s held throughout their (growing) product line, and offer rather ingenious solutions to sometimes complex watchmaking problems. Their watches have a simplicity to them both in terms of their aesthetics and mechanics that is really appealing to particular type of watch nerd. They work as an antidote, almost, to the “Can you top this?” game of dizzying and often needless complexity that often plays out in the world of high end watchmaking. With their ochs line, the brand offers key watches from their catalog in predetermined colorways at a reduced cost, giving collectors who wish to forego the brand’s extensive customization options a chance to own one of their pieces at a reduced cost. The latest addition to the ochs line pays tribute to Ray and Charles Eames, an American design team that almost certainly has had some influence on ochs und junior over the years.  The Eames name is perhaps most associated with the iconic Eames Lounge Chair that was first introduced and manufactured in the 1950s by the Herman Miller furniture company. Eames furniture designs were notable for their use of molded plywood splints, which replaced the more commonly used metal splints that were popular in ...

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Glashütte Original Returns to the Swinging Sixties with their Latest Chronograph Worn & Wound
Glashütte Original Returns Sep 25, 2023

Glashütte Original Returns to the Swinging Sixties with their Latest Chronograph

Last month, we told you about a new chronograph from Glashütte Original that was funky, off the beaten path, and full of color. The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is a true enthusiast’s piece, with an uncommon movement, case shape, and feature set. That said, if your tastes veer toward the more classic and refined side of the spectrum, the Seventies Chronograph might not be your cup of tea. If that’s the case, all you need to do is hop in the Glashütte Original time machine, and head back just a decade to sample their Sixties Chronograph, a more traditional execution that gives up nothing in the areas of meticulous finishing and execution that Glashütte Original is well known for. The latest version of the Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition is as clean and classic as it gets, and would make a nice alternative to the Seventies Chrono, showing off the many facets of the brand behind it.  The watches in Glashütte’s Sixties inspired collections tend to have very dramatic, often brightly colored, textured dials. For this release, we get a look that’s about as subdued as this style of dial can get, with a stone-gray tone finished with a dégradé effect that makes the color appear darker at the dial’s perimeter and lighter closer to the center. Glashütte has always maintained that the embossed textures of these dials combined with bright colors is a tribute to the “flower power” look of the 1960s, and there is certainly something vaguely psychedelic abou...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Zenith Pilot pop-up exhibit coming to NYC from August 8 to September 10 Time+Tide
Zenith Pilot pop-up exhibit coming Aug 4, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Zenith Pilot pop-up exhibit coming to NYC from August 8 to September 10

At Watches & Wonders, Zenith overhauled their Pilot’s watch and debuted a new collection of Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph watches. While most, when it comes to Zenith, think of the Defy and Chronomaster collections, they also have rich roots within the realm of Pilot’s watches. This is why a new pop-up … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Zenith Pilot pop-up exhibit coming to NYC from August 8 to September 10 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Christopher Ward Introduces a Pair of New Dial Variants to the C63 Sealander Range, Along with a Brand New Five-Link Bracelet Design Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Aug 2, 2023

Christopher Ward Introduces a Pair of New Dial Variants to the C63 Sealander Range, Along with a Brand New Five-Link Bracelet Design

Christopher Ward is refreshing their C63 Sealander line this week with more than just new dial variants. Of course, we’re getting new dial variants, but the big news here for collectors and fans of the brand is the debut of a new bracelet option. Dubbed the Consort, the five-link style is reminiscent of a traditional Rolex Jubilee bracelet, but still very much its own thing, and adds a new, more elegant, dimension to Christopher Ward’s all purpose sports watch.  Before we get to the bracelet, let’s start with the dial updates. There are two brand new references here, a Dragonfly Blue version of the C63 Sealander GMT, and a Mulberry Red execution of the C63 Sealander Automatic 36mm. The red dial in particular is quite striking in these Christopher Ward supplied images. This is a tough color to get right, and perhaps even tougher to pair with everyday attire, but it’s undeniably attractive nonetheless. The Dragonfly Blue tone on the GMT has an aquatic vibe not unlike other references we’ve seen from Christopher Ward recently. This one pairs particularly well with the orange tipped 24 hour hand and offers a nice base for the high contrast white, lume filled applied hour markers for easy legibility. Both new dials have sunray finishes that should allow them to come alive in the light.  The Consort bracelet that’s paired to these two watches immediately makes them feel a little more formal, and a little less tool oriented. It’s a traditional five-link design, wi...

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One Watch to Rule Them All: A New Strategy Emerges at Watches & Wonders 2023 Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe booths These brands Apr 12, 2023

One Watch to Rule Them All: A New Strategy Emerges at Watches & Wonders 2023

When you enter Palexpo, the enormous convention center that is home to Watches & Wonders, you have an immediate decision to make: right or left? A glance to the left and you see the Tudor, Rolex, and Patek Philippe booths. These brands, in a lot of ways, anchor the entire show, and dominate much of the conversation for the duration of the fair. If you look to your right, you’ll be greeted by something entirely different. This year, it was a giant Ingenieur, spread across the top of the IWC booth at the end of the hall, and it was hard not to get the message that this watch, and this watch alone, was the brand’s sole focus for Watches & Wonders this year. Building your Watches & Wonders presence around a single watch was a trend that came into sharp focus at this year’s event.  The IWC booth at Watches & Wonders, viewed from the opposite end of the hall. Whether brands took a literal one watch approach (like Ulysee Nardin, who only showed the new Freak ONE this year) or put the lion’s share of their backing behind one release but dropped a few additional under the radar pieces (like IWC), it’s a strategy that makes for a stark contrast with what feels like a more traditional practice of overwhelming everyone in the meeting with tray, after tray, after tray of new watches to try on, photograph, write about, and otherwise consider. The single watch strategy communicates a sense of confidence, that a brand has hit on something so good that they don’t need to muddy...

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Patek Philippe introduces some surprisingly racy colours to the Calatrava Time+Tide
Patek Philippe introduces some surprisingly racy Mar 30, 2023

Patek Philippe introduces some surprisingly racy colours to the Calatrava

Patek Philippe brings a surprising jolt of colour to the Calatrava for Watches & Wonders 2023 The time and date reference gets 3 new dials in bright yellow, red, and blue The design harks back to the limited edition 6007A, but gets a case upgrade to polished white gold The new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007G … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe introduces some surprisingly racy colours to the Calatrava appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Patek Philippe Aquanaut adds some delectable new chocolates and blue-greys to the line-up Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Aquanaut adds some delectable Mar 28, 2023

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut adds some delectable new chocolates and blue-greys to the line-up

Patek Philippe adds three tasty new rose gold models to their Aquanaut sporting line for Watches & Wonders 2023 A flyback chronograph and diamond-bezelled time/date model both get warm dial colours In a first for the Aquanaut, the Luce presents an annual calendar paired with a blue-grey dial With no new Nautilus models for Watches … ContinuedThe post The Patek Philippe Aquanaut adds some delectable new chocolates and blue-greys to the line-up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Liver King upgraded to a Royal Oak Offshore for his July 4th Las Vegas jaunt Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore while Jul 12, 2022

Liver King upgraded to a Royal Oak Offshore for his July 4th Las Vegas jaunt

Last week we spotted the Liver King wearing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore while celebrating Independence Day in Las Vegas. For those of you unfamiliar with the TikTok star and supplement magnate, the Liver King (aka Brian Johnson) has gained notoriety for his stomach-churning proclivity of eating about a pound of raw liver each day.  Now, … ContinuedThe post Liver King upgraded to a Royal Oak Offshore for his July 4th Las Vegas jaunt appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Business News: Watches & Wonders Returns to Geneva in March 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Jul 12, 2022

Business News: Watches & Wonders Returns to Geneva in March 2023

Having successfully pulled off the first large-scale watch fair in Switzerland since the pandemic started – and the first expanded event that included Baselworld transplants like Rolex and Patek Philippe – the organisers of Watches & Wonder will be doing it again next year. Watches & Wonders 2023 will take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 – though those are “provisional dates” according to the organisers. But before that the event will take place in two cities in China. First on the tropical resort island of Hainan from October to December 2022 where it will happen simultaneously in Haikou and Sanya. The CDF Mall in Sanya Last year’s W&W; at the West Bund Art Centre in Shanghai Each of these respective events will be taking place in a shopping mall operated by one of the country’s two primary duty-free retailers, China Tourism Group (CTG) in Haikou and China Duty Free Group (CDF) in Sanya. And then from November 23 to 27, W&W; will move to the West Bund Art Center in Shanghai, where it took place in previous years. Intriguingly, the announcement the 2023 event in Geneva begins with “Watches and Wonders announces… its first provisional dates for 2023”. And it omits the list of exhibiting brands. That is perhaps a hint that next year’s event will not have the same exhibitors as this year, reflecting widely discussed tensions between the various exhibiting brands and groups.  

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