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Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Tank a Guichets Review: A Quirky Art Deco Classic Returns
Usually, when we think of Cartier, our thoughts turn to classical luxury and elegance rather than military-style minimalism. However, the world-famous maison and “jeweler of kings” has long dabbled in both worlds, at least when it comes to watchmaking. And there is no better example of a timepiece that embodies that ethos than the rather unexpected headliner of Cartier’s new releases at the 2025 Watches & Wonders salon: the Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets. The Tank à Guichets, of course, is an evolution of the original Cartier Tank watch, which is itself a historical example of a modern luxury item with clearly military inspiration (it’s right there in the name, actually). Throughout its prestigious history since being unveiled in 1917 by its inventor, Louis Cartier, the Tank has evolved in ways that are both subtle and revolutionary and has appeared in forms of which many of us might not even be aware. Some of these more exotic and unusual Tank pieces have found their way back into the main collection in recent years as part of the Cartier Privé series, and it is from this series that the new Guichets, in its three distinctive iterations, does indeed hail. The Original Cartier Tank But let’s start off by establishing where this watch’s design legacy began. The classic, original Cartier Tank, which didn’t actually go into serial production until 1919, derived its name and its rectangular, curvilinear case shape from the World War I-era Renault FT-17 t...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s Gondolo Serata Zebra Debuts New Dial Technique
Patek Philippe surprises with an off-season launch, the Gondolo Serata Zebra Ref. 4962/200R-010. Based on the curvaceous model launched in 2006, the Zebra features a sapphire crystal dial framed by garnets on the bezel and lugs. The dial motif replicates the cloisonné enamel dial of the Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-023 from the Rare Handcrafts collection of 2022, but here the technique and material are decidedly modern. Despite the radically different look, this is an evolution of the Retrograde Perpetual Calendar ref. 6159G that has a smoked sapphire dial. Here the dial is also clear sapphire, but engraved, varnished, and then metallised to create the striking zebra motif. Initial thoughts The Gondolo Serata has been in Patek Philippe’s catalogue for almost 20 years but it never really gained prominence. Though the case shape is elegant, the dials on the earlier versions were quite plain. The Zebra is the opposite – vivid and striking – and it instantly stands out amongst Patek Philippe’s ladies offerings. The fact that the dial motif is based on the Rare Handcrafts Ellipse is a nice touch, though watch enthusiasts may be disappointed the movement is quartz. Patek Philippe presumably understands its clients and those clients probably want the convenience of a quartz movement. The sapphire dial technique, however, is interesting enough that it is likely to make its way into other models, which will be a good thing. Savannah sapphire The Gondolo Serata is a longsta...
Deployant
New: Piaget Andy Warhol Collage
Piaget releases another iconic watch with the Foundation Andy Warhol in the form of a limited edition watch inspired by the "Collage" artwork of the artist.
SJX Watches
Piaget’s Andy Warhol ‘Collage’ is Abstract Stone Marquetry
Piaget pays tribute to the pop-art pioneer and prolific watch collector with the Andy Warhol Watch Collage Limited Edition in the best way it knows how – with an exotic stone dial. Like the watch owned by Warhol himself, the Collage has a black onyx dial, but in between the onyx is yellow serpentine, pink opal, and green chrysoprase, forming a precious stone puzzle carefully assembled by hand. To bring things full circle, this 50 piece limited edition has a yellow gold case, the same alloy Warhol himself wore, and a metal that’s absent from the regular production Any Warhol lineup. Initial Thoughts The first Swiss quartz watches hit the market mere months after the Seiko Astron, powered by the CEH Beta 21 – a large and rectangular movement that gave the oversized watches it powered a distinctive look that I am fond of. Piaget’s ref. 15101, launched in 1972, was one of the most appealing Beta 21 designs by my reckoning. The renowned American artist must have agreed with that assessment as he purchased one in 1973, which Piaget bought back at auction after Warhol’s death. It is also worth noting that Yves Piaget, president of Piaget since 1980, knew Warhol personally. Andy Warhol with Yves Piaget. Image – Piaget The marquetry dial of the Collage puts Piaget’s expertise to good use. It is surprisingly creative, and is not based on a specific Warhol work as already done many times before. Rather, Piaget attempted to recreate Warhol’s process to create a new wor...
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WWT#28 - Why Every Gentleman Should Have A Wrist Watch, Sinn Watches & Amzdeal 8 Watch Case Review
Time+Tide
Look out for these ultra-rare Seikos at Phillips’ Decade One auction
Borna highlights three incredibly rare and historically significant Seikos set to go under the hammer with Phillips in November 2025.The post Look out for these ultra-rare Seikos at Phillips’ Decade One auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” Movement Cal. 4132
The cal. 4132 inside the Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” is a rare evolution of one of the most revered chronograph movements in modern watchmaking. Based on the long-running cal. 4130 platform, the new movement was developed specifically for the Daytona “Le Mans” unveiled in 2023 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the famed endurance race. While visually similar to the cal. 4131 found in current-production Daytonas, the cal. 4132 incorporates a clever mechanical upgrade that allows it to record up to 24 hours of elapsed time. Given the relatively simple upgrade from a 12-hour to 24-hour counter, the cal. 4132 might seem like a weekend project for a brand with the engineering might of Rolex, but the reality is more nuanced. To achieve this, Rolex engineered a compact differential gear set that doubles the timing capacity without altering the core movement architecture, leaving the movement dimensions unchanged. As with many Rolex innovations, the cal. 4132 reflects the brand’s quiet obsession with functional longevity and serviceability. The latest Daytona movements reveal a degree of decorative finishing unseen in past generations of Rolex movements An already quirky base For over two decades, the Rolex cal. 4130 stood as the benchmark for industrial chronograph movements. Launched in 2000, the cal. 4130 was the first in-house chronograph movement developed by Rolex. The movement was lauded for its compact architecture, low component count, and ease of service – a...
Worn & Wound
A History and Guide to Bulova
Joseph Bulova was just twenty-four when he founded a company that would revolutionize American watchmaking. Immigrating to the United States from Bohemia in 1870, he founded the J. Bulova Company in 1875 on New York City’s Maiden Lane, specializing in jewelry and watch and clock repair. The business grew, and by 1911 the Bulova Company began producing table clocks and pocket watches. The next year, Joseph Bulova opened a Biel, Switzerland plant for the mass production of watches. The J. Bulova Company was reincorporated as the Bulova Watch Company in 1923, symbolizing its shift into watch production. Joseph Bulova was just twenty-four when he founded a company that would revolutionize American watchmaking. Immigrating to the United States from Bohemia in 1870, he founded the J. Bulova Company in 1875 on New York City’s Maiden Lane, specializing in jewelry and watch and clock repair. The business grew, and by 1911 the Bulova Company began producing table clocks and pocket watches. The next year, Joseph Bulova opened a Biel, Switzerland plant for the mass production of watches. The J. Bulova Company was reincorporated as the Bulova Watch Company in 1923, symbolizing its shift into watch production. The post A History and Guide to Bulova appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Should watch customisation be more widely accepted?
Aftermarket customisation is an acceptable practice for many consumer products or hobbies, so why is it so taboo in the watch community?The post Should watch customisation be more widely accepted? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
New releases from Frederique Constant, De Bethune, Zenith and more
Fair warning: this is a pretty massive edition of Last Week in Watches, as there were so many new products released last week...The post New releases from Frederique Constant, De Bethune, Zenith and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Reunited With My Best Friend & A Rainy Day In Rainey Park
Hodinkee
Auctions: A Live Preview Of This Weekend's Fall 2025 Monaco Legend Auction
We're back in Monaco for the start of the fall auction season, and there are so many special watches to see.
Deployant
New & Reviewed: Bell & Ross BR-X3 Night Vision
Just a month after the release of Bell & Ross' BR-X3, the maison released it's first limited edition. The BR-X3 Night Vision.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Time Flies: AVI-8’s All-New P-51 Mustang-Inspired Limited Editions Take Us to Our First Airshow
There are few things that stir the senses like the roar of a WWII warbird overhead. For enthusiasts of mechanical things-whether engines or movements-an airshow is a sensory overload: the glint of polished aluminum in the sun, the bone-rattling sound of propellers, and the raw thrill of machines built for speed, precision, attack, and evading. This year is the 85th anniversary of the venerable P-51 Mustang. So with AVI-8’s all-new Hitchcock Automatic and Kindelberger Chronograph Limited Editions in tow, both inspired by this iconic plane, we decided to head out to our very first airshow. Here’s what we learned-and what you should know-before you go wheels-up into the world of aviation’s biggest stage featuring this exact WWII fighter. The post [VIDEO] Time Flies: AVI-8’s All-New P-51 Mustang-Inspired Limited Editions Take Us to Our First Airshow appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Oris x RedBar Divers Limited Edition
Oris and RedBar reunite for a new 39mm diver marking the collector community's return to New York for its 2025 Global Meetup.
Deployant
New: Luminox Navy 3050 Pirate Watch
Luminox Navy 3050 Pirate Watch not only throws the daring spirit of pirates at sea, but also supports the marine conservation.
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Orient Blue Ray II & Mako II Review, New Leather Straps, Casio F-91W Nato & Marathon Steel Bracelets
Quill & Pad
WatchCharts October 2025 Watch Market Update : What happened in September 2025?
The WatchCharts Overall Market Index gained +0.6% in September 2025, continuing its gradual recovery trend. Patek Philippe led the way with a +2.3% increase, while Rolex edged up +0.2%. Over the past six months, Patek Philippe and Rolex have risen +5.7% and +2.0%, respectively.
Time+Tide
A guide to every Seiko brand
Credor, King Seiko, Grand Seiko, Prospex or Presage - how do these Seiko brands and collections actually stack up?The post A guide to every Seiko brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Château de Versailles
You should have been there. The Yew Tree Ball (Le Bal des Ifs) was a masquerade ball held in 1745 by King Louis XV of France after the wedding between his son - the Dauphin Louis - and Infanta Maria Teresa Rafaela of Spain. The ball took place in the gilded Hall of Mirrors (Galerie […] Visit Introducing: Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Château de Versailles to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Serica’s Parade gets a mid-century makeover with two textural linen dials
Serica has added another two dials to its Parade dress watch collection, sporting a classic linen texture and adding some welcome colour.The post Serica’s Parade gets a mid-century makeover with two textural linen dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New with hands-on: Urwerk UR-10 SpaceMaster with astronomical indications
Urwerk, a rebel who breaks rules on watches, break their own rules and releases the UR-10 SpaceMaster with a round case, a dial, and hands.
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10 Affordable Quality Gentlemen's Christmas Gift Suggestions - $10 to $50
Time+Tide
Monta celebrates its ongoing success with a re-designed Triumph model
American brand Monta updates its Triumph model for the first time since 2017, offering aesthetic and technical refinements.The post Monta celebrates its ongoing success with a re-designed Triumph model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica And Master Grande Tradition Models
When Jaeger-LeCoultre applies the Hybris Artistica and Grande Tradition labels, expectations rise. These watches are complicated, sure, but they are also theatrical displays of mechanical skill and decorative artistry. Today, the brand introduces two new creations under these banners, the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 and the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948. Each interprets the […] Visit Introducing: New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica And Master Grande Tradition Models to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Watch Case Materials
In this week’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Lex tackle the very foundation of our watches - the case materials. From trusty steel to precious gold, lightweight titanium, and futuristic ceramics, the trio dives into what distinguishes these materials, their unique features, and why they make a difference when wearing a watch every […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watch Case Materials to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Seiko Revives Retro Rotocall from Eighties Space Shuttle Era
More Seiko watches have gone to space than any other brand, save for Omega and Casio, and Seiko brings back the most prolific of them all, the multi-function Rotocall. For the 2025 reissue, the brand has gone for authenticity over reinvention, retaining the original 37 mm case size and bezel-operated function selector, while making a concession for a more practical sapphire crystal. Named for its nifty rotating bezel, the vintage Rotocall was most frequently worn on NASA Space Shuttle missions. The remake is available in three colourways, plus two limited editions for the Japanese market, the reissue of this 1980s favourite delivers a heavy dose of nostalgia. Initial thoughts If the Speedmaster Professional is the “Moon Watch”, the Rotocall may as well be called the “Shuttle Watch”. NASA purportedly flight qualified the Rotocall around 1983 and, according to Robert Jackson, who maintains a database of watches used in space, Rotocalls crossed the Karman line nearly 200 times during the Space Shuttle program, which lasted until 2011. Today, vintage Rotocalls are quite desirable, and unlike NASA-issued Speedmasters, which were government property, astronauts paid for and were allowed to keep their Rotocalls. Sotheby’s sold Kathy Sullivan’s watch, which she took to space twice – and once to the seafloor in the Challenger Deep – for over US$20,000 a few years ago. The Rotocall may be the most faithful of Seiko’s recent reissues; it’s the same diameter – 37...
SJX Watches
Strap or Bracelet? Ming’s Laser-Formed Titanium Mesh is Both
Ming has unveiled the Polymesh strap, described by the brand as the world’s first 3D-printed titanium watch bracelet. Blurring the line between bracelet and strap, it’s comprised of 1,693 articulating grade 5 titanium components. Designed to fit any Ming case with 20 mm lugs, the Polymesh strap reflects the brand’s growing ambitions. Initial thoughts The Polymesh strap illustrates the important function that independent brands like Ming play in the watchmaking ecosystem; they can explore concepts that big brands cannot. Large industrial brands are, to some extent, locked in a cage of their own making. On one hand, they have scale and distribution, but on the other, any innovation must be tested exhaustively to ensure it won’t complicate service channels. Ming exists in a sweet spot, with enough market traction to confidently invest in the development of new ideas, and the nimble size to take decisive action. In this context, it’s not surprising to see the first 3D-printed wristwatch bracelet come from a brand like Ming rather than an industrial powerhouse like Rolex or the Swatch Group. The concept itself is inherently interesting. It might be called a bracelet or a strap, but regardless of the nomenclature, it’s intended to offer both the dense, draping feel of a bracelet with the supple flexibility of a strap, made possible through additive manufacturing. As with any truly novel concept, the Polymesh strap likely needs to be experienced firsthand to be fully...
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