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Monochrome
If there’s one brand – or rather, one house – that defies the laws of gravity, it’s Hermès. Just uttering the name evokes a reaction: it’s the embodiment of absolute luxury. Elegance, lightness, and discretion might be its keys, as Hermès stands as a unique case in a sector currently facing turbulence. No matter: the […]
Time+Tide
Speake-Marin's Geneva Watch Days 2025 release is the sort of watch The Joker might wear.The post Speake-Marin’s new Openworked Tourbillon Purple Hour is a purple power play appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Now in its 28th year, the Cartier Prize for Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow is open for candidates. This year’s theme is “Shifting the Balance: Reading and Perceiving Time Differently” and encourages applicants to propose novel or unusual time displays, inspired by the recently revived Tank à Guichets. The prize is open to third and fourth year apprentice watchmakers and techniciens ES en Microtechniques in Switzerland, or young people in any equivalently rigorous program in France, Germany, Belgium, or employed at Cartier (which unsurprisingly is one of the largest employees in the Vallee de Joux). The brand will also consider applicants outside this scope on a case-by-case basis. Cartier accepts applications in French, English, and German, which must include an introduction video, project pitch, and sketch of the creation. This portal closes on October 31 2025. A five member jury, which includes Kari Voutilainen, will select six technicians and six apprentices, to be announced in December. The 12 chosen candidates will pair up with a mentor and have only 80 hours over three months to construct their respective vision using a Cartier cal. 012 alarm clock movement and a budget of CHF500. The application includes normally proprietary technical documentation on this movement to help the prospects plan their projects. Candidates will document the build in a digital logbook, recording and explaining each step, and keeping track of the 80 hour time budget. The reconvened...
Time+Tide
Continuing the 150th anniversary celebrations, AP has brought us a host of crown-controlled QPs and rich stone dial tourbs.The post Audemars Piguet marks 150 years with 38 mm QPs and stone‑dial tourbillons appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hamilton has added nine new references to the Khaki range, boasting chronos, three-handers and power reserve complications.The post Hamilton deploys a platoon of more complicated Khaki Fields for September 2025 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Fratello
The annual GPHG awards will take place on November 13th of this year. With the nominees recently published, we take a look and pick our favorites. We indulge and pretend we’re the all-Fratello jury for the GPHG 2025. I mean, why wouldn’t we, right? With so many fantastic watches nominated, this is far from an […] Visit Fratello’s Favorite GPHG 2025 Nominees to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
To be honest, most people in the know would agree that “cheapest” and “Patek Philippe” don’t really even belong in the same sentence together. That said, for many serious watch collectors, even those just starting out, one’s first Patek Philippe is both a Holy Grail and a milestone purchase to be carefully, thoughtfully planned out and saved for. And most of those aficionados are still going to be entering the brand’s world at the ground floor rather than the penthouse. So what are these “entry level” Patek Philippe watches, i.e., the models actually priced with a first-time buyer in mind? First off, we should establish why Patek Philippe watches are so coveted in the first place by laying out a bit of history. Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now seen widely throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestones are the first annual calendar watch and the first wristwatches with perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. In 1932, brothers Jean and Henri Stern acquired Patek Philipp...
Time+Tide
Limited to 400 pieces, the Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey's titanium case features a covert grey surface treatment.The post Bremont’s latest stealthy limited edition celebrates their continued collaboration with Martin-Baker appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
I’ve long had a contentious relationship with the color purple; between youth softball teams and grad school alma maters, it’s always difficult to find anything to wear with the color that isn’t immediately clashing. But purple is also a color associated with luxury and royalty, so I am approaching the new Silk Purple Hanhart Preventor HD12, a collaboration with German watch magazine Armbanduhren, with an open mind. Hanhart’s Preventor HD12 was originally launched in August 2024, and has fast become one of the Swiss-German brand’s most popular pieces. A field watch-style dial design paired with HD12 scratch-resistant steel, and powered by a Sellita caliber SW200-1 or Soprod SOP P024 automatic movement, the Preventor combines the vintage styling that Hanhart is known for with robust construction and durability. With easy-wearing case dimensions of 39mm in diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug, the Preventor positions itself as an everyday timekeeping watch with few complications-even lacking a date window. The HD12 steel is made scratch-resistant through a multi-stage hardening process, in which carbon is diffused into the steel and the case is covered in an additional PVD coating. Hanhart continues to tout the “hardness” factor of the Preventor by protecting the dial with a scratch-resistant convex-curved sapphire crystal. Of course, the dial is where the fun happens for this limited edition Preventor. The matte Silk Purple contrasts starkly with the white Ara...
Deployant
Last week, during Geneva Watch Days 2025 gérald genta unveils The Minute Repeater. Here is the release inforrmation and our commentary.
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Quill & Pad
For the fourth month in a row, the picture of performance at the top remains mixed: the WatchCharts Overall Market Index fell by -0.1%, prices for Rolex fell by -0.2% and by -0.3% for Audemars Piguet. However, Patek Philippe prices rose by +0.6%.
Time+Tide
Two striking takes on a classical dial-making technique that's resulted in very modern and contrasting watches. The post Oracle Time joins forces with Isotope for two living dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
At last year’s Geneva Watch Days, H. Moser had one of the most talked about (and divisive) releases of the week, a splashy collaboration with Studio Underd0g that saw the high end and affordable indie sharing a passion fruit inspired colorway across a pair of watches, sold as a set. It generated a lot of opinions and was, for a time, one of the most buzzed about watches of the year. Moser returned to Geneva Watch Days this year with a slate of new releases that, I think, has succeeded in evading the kinds of hot takes we saw last year, while still, as always, being very “Moser.” The new Pioneer Flying Hours and Endeavour Perpetual Calendar in smoked salmon might not inspire heated opinion pieces from watch writers like yours truly, but they remain exciting in their own way in a year that’s already seen Moser push some boundaries and play with our expectations. The new reference in the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar line is about as classic Moser as it gets. This dial color was first introduced in a Streamliner back in 2023, and was an immediate hit for the way it spun the traditional idea of a “salmon” dial into a new, more contemporary context. Less rosy pink and more of a metallic rust, this salmon dial has a reserved and almost autumnal presence that really suits the Endeavour, itself a more reserved and mature segment of the Moser lineup. The case of the perpetual calendar is white gold and measures 42mm in diameter, and wears extremely well, if not razor thi...
Time+Tide
JLC has unveiled new and refined interpretations of its Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 and Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon.The post Jaeger-LeCoultre continues strong in 2025 with a flurry of Master tourbillon models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
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Teddy Baldassarre
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LV (or, the Rolex Starbucks, as it has come to be known) was released alongside an entirely updated Submariner collection during the peak pandemic days of late summer 2020. I’ll get into that broader collection update later, but the Starbucks was one of the more attention-grabbing Submariners, given how it went back to the original colorway of the first “Green Sub.” A little context for those not wholly ensconced in the minutae of niche watch references: the first of these was the Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610LV, which dates all the way back to 2003 when it was released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner. You may better know the 16610LV from its “Kermit” nickname due to its then-novel use of a vibrant green aluminum bezel. This watch was produced until 2010 and is beloved by collectors. One of my favorite instances of celebrity watch spotting was when I noticed Martin Scorsese wearing a Kermit during the filming of Killers of the Flower Moon back in 2023. Following the discontinuation of the Kermit, Rolex released the Submariner Ref. 116610LV in 2010. This model, of course, would go on to be dubbed the “Hulk,” courtesy of its green ceramic bezel and matching green dial. The Rolex Hulk debuted to hot demand alongside the Submariner Ref. 116610LN due to these being the first updated Submariners, with Rolex’s proprietary Cerachrom ceramic bezel and Maxi case, to be made available in steel (the white-gold Submarin...
Worn & Wound
Minimal, quartz, stone dial dress watches with “TV-cases” would have been a hard sell with watch enthusiasts just a few years ago, but you wouldn’t know it from Dennison’s rapid rise in popularity. The historic British brand, twice revived, has been one-to-watch in the last year, having launched the ALD line of watches fitting the description mentioned above just last October (2024) to great success. Perfectly timed for the seemingly capricious swings of the enthusiast zeitgeist, the combination of a 60s/70s shaped case, clean, expansive stone dials, effortless style, and approachable price point made them an easy sell for those who wanted to dabble with an aesthetic that was previously the domain of luxury jewelry watch brands. Less than a year since launch, Dennison is back and, quite literally, doubling down on their inaugural line’s success with the ALD Dual Time. An extension of the first line, as the name suggests, the Dual Times can tell the time in more than one location, but do so in a decidedly direct and retro method. They have two movements. Positioned on either side of the dial, with independent crowns on either side of the case, these twin quartz tickers (though it should be noted there are no seconds hands) allow for differences down to the minute. Convenient for the rare 15 or 30-minute timezone change, or perhaps tracking a friend who is always 10 minutes late, this layout is as easy to read as it is visually dynamic. The close proximity of the t...
Time+Tide
For Episode 5, A Matter of Time co-host Eleonor was put in the hot seat to bring perspective on what women actually notice about your watch.The post A Matter of Time Episode 05: What women really think about your watch choice on a first date… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another showdown while the room fills with the smell of freshly made coffee. This week’s battle is all about affordable sports watches with integrated bracelets. Jorg has selected the new manual-winding Christoper Ward Twelve 660, which debuted last week, and Mike will take him on with the Nivada […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Christopher Ward Twelve 660 Vs. Nivada Grenchen F77 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
We’re in the middle of Geneva Watch Days 2025, and brands are trying to outdo each other... Including those not even exhibiting in Geneva!The post Geneva Watch Days 2025 Special: new releases from Bulgari, Berneron, Laurent Ferrier and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
The Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair (HKCWF), which ran 3-6 September, can be quite a tempestuous event. On the one hand, you can get into the nitty-gritty of this fabulous industry, which is continuously trying to renew itself in the face of rocky markets and a sea change in societal attitudes.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. An EDC update from Peter McKinnon When it comes to blending Every Day Carry, photography, and story telling, few people manage to do it like Peter McKinnon does. Over the years, Peter has grown his youtube channel to almost 6 million subscribers, while pulling back the curtain on his creative process and offering useful tips and tricks along the way. In his most recent video, Peter goes through his EDC as we head into fall. One of the most interesting items Peter talks about is his watch, a Marathon GSAR (Ref. WW194006SS-0130). Long time fans of the channel will likely have heard Peter mention watches before, but this is one of the first times that we’ve seen Peter dive into the specs and speak about how and why a certain watch made its way onto his wrist. Check out the video above for his full reasoning! The New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 When the Citizen Tsuyosa debuted in 2023, Zach Kazan was quick to state that “Citizen is making a play at the competitive “sporty, everyday casual” segment of the market with a colorful integrated bracelet option.” Now, almost two years later, the Tsuyosa line has rapidly grown to include numerous colorways, two case sizes, ...
Deployant
TAG Heuer expands its Carrera collection with the launch of the Carrera Astronomer, We cover the release with our commentary.
![Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2025 Highlights [Live From Geneva]](https://www.fratellowatches.com/cdn-cgi/image/anim=false/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/GWD-2024-b-roll-geneva-1.jpg)
Fratello
As Geneva Watch Days 2025 draws to a close, it’s time to look back at some of our highlights from the fair. This bonus Fratello Talks episode was recorded on location at Piaget’s boutique in Geneva, where the team had the opportunity to experience Geneva Watch Days 2025 and all the novelties presented. Set against […] Visit Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2025 Highlights [Live From Geneva] to read the full article.
SJX Watches
On the ninth episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore sit down to discuss recent watch launches during Geneva Watch Days, highlighting standout pieces like the hand-made Ferdinand Berthoud (the first of which will be sold at auction) and the Berneron annual calendar, and also reflecting on the flavours of the day like artisanal finishing and user-friendly calendar watches. Also on the docket, the record-setting Patek Philippe 1518 in steel returns to auction while a second is up for private sale, and reflecting on our reassuring recent encounter with Breguet’s new chief executive. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
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