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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Time+Tide Announces their First Dress Watch, a Collaboration with Dennison Featuring a Marquetry Mother of Pearl Dial Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe focused retail operation Aug 20, 2025

Time+Tide Announces their First Dress Watch, a Collaboration with Dennison Featuring a Marquetry Mother of Pearl Dial

Just a few months ago, Dennison launched their first ever collaboration with Collectability, John Reardon’s Patek Philippe focused retail operation. That watch was an exercise in subtlety, and all about shape. It evoked classic Patek references without hitting you over the head with obvious historical nods, and felt like a true reflection of Reardon’s taste. This week, they’ve announced their second collaborative watch, a time limited edition with Time+Tide, and this one is equally impressive while being anything but subtle, featuring an impressive execution of a rarely seen mother of pearl marquetry technique.  This feels like it might be the second week in a row where a mother of pearl limited edition takes over our social media feeds. It was just days ago that Selten premiered their own engraved MOP dial in partnership with Watch Ho & Co. Like the Selten, this new Dennison doesn’t stop at a simple slab of mother of pearl, but seeks to transform the material into something unexpected.  That’s where designer Emmanual Gueit comes in. He’s created a dial featuring a repeating motif of unique, rectangular, mother of pearl filaments. The result is an irregular surface that shimmers like a traditional MOP dial, but in unexpected ways through a geometric pattern. This type of dial making is far more labor intensive than using a single piece of mother of pearl, as each filament had to be precisely inlaid by hand.  Time+Tide has released a number of limited edition...

Opinion: A Little Learning is a Dangerous Thing (Or, Please Don’t Call Me a Watch Expert) Worn & Wound
Rolex from 40 or 50 Aug 20, 2025

Opinion: A Little Learning is a Dangerous Thing (Or, Please Don’t Call Me a Watch Expert)

We live in a golden age of watch knowledge. Never before have so many people known so much about watches, or cared about them so deeply, and it’s genuinely remarkable. Have a specific question about a rare Rolex from 40 or 50 years ago? The answer is probably just a Google search away. Need to check that the watch you’re looking to buy was made in exactly the spec you’re seeing on eBay? There’s almost certainly a forum post somewhere breaking it down for you - no subject is too esoteric, no prompt too singular. There’s enough watch knowledge out there to fill a lifetime, and probably more, if you go looking for it. Then there’s the other… stuff. Open up Instagram and you’ll immediately be inundated by accounts professing to represent ‘watch experts’ peddling surface-level observations as hard-earned insights. Start to absorb enough of this, and it’s easy to convince yourself you should count among them, that you’ve done the real work required to achieve expertise. It’s a trap, and an easy one to fall into at that. Because unless someone in your life brought you into this world, you’re probably the foremost watch expert in your life. You’re almost certainly the one your friends and family come to when (cough, cough… if) they have questions about watches. Just being able to tell the difference between a quartz and a mechanical watch probably puts you in the top quartile of watch knowledge. And if you’re reading articles like this on sites ...

"Are Tissot Watches Good?" Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Aug 20, 2025

"Are Tissot Watches Good?"

Tissot is one of the world's largest Swiss watchmakers and can look back on a rich history upon which it is still building today. In the modern era, Tissot is widely known for its large and diverse portfolio of watches, which ranges from dressy to sporty to high-tech, for its high-profile sports timing presence, and for its incredible value for the money. But there is a lot more that you may not know about Tissot and its many contributions to watchmaking history. Here, we delve into the highlights and tackle the easily answerable question of "are Tissot watches good?". (And if you're interested in learning more about particular Tissot Watches that are available now, check out our companion article on the Best Tissot Watches for Men.) Tissot’s Watchmaking Milestones Began in 1853 Tissot is one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world, tracing its history back to 1853. Its founders were the father-son watchmaking team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot, who turned their home in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, where the company remains headquartered today, into a small factory. By 1858, the family firm had gained a major foothold in Tsarist Russia, which became the largest market for the savonette pocket watches that were its specialty at the time. (At one point, Charles-Émile’s son, Charles Tissot, the third generation of the Tissot family to join the business, moved to Moscow to open an office there.) Tissot is recognized as the producer of the first...

Tudor Black Bay Pro Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Aug 19, 2025

Tudor Black Bay Pro Review

At Watches & Wonders 2025, Tudor expanded its existing catalog to address some fan requests as well as to reset some long neglected collections. One release that does both is the new Black Bay Pro with a silver opaline dial. This is a configuration long requested from enthusiasts, and Tudor did the idea justice by getting the small details right. This is more than a mere dial swap, even if the underlying platform remains largely the same. This is the kind of methodical evolution we’ve come to expect from Tudor, though in some ways, the new Black Bay Pro plays things a little too safe.  Let’s take a quick look back at Tudor’s recent history with the GMT complication to set some context for the newest Black Bay Pro, because - while this configuration has been highly requested - as far as fan requests go, this watch has one glaring omission. Tudor released the Black Bay GMT back in 2018 with a black dial and a throwback red-and-blue aluminum bezel. As popular as the watch was right off the bat, the size made it a tough pill to swallow for some, particularly the thickness of the case paired with the relatively flat sidewall.  Tudor Black Bay Pro Case Tudor partially addressed this with the release of the first Black Bay Pro in 2022 in a 39mm steel case. The watch also played up ties to the Rolex Explorer II with a fixed steel bezel. It was an unexpected release but it hit many of the right notes, and it made the substantial thickness a bit easier to stomach. It wor...

Louis Erard Makes Hand Engraving Affordable SJX Watches
Louis Erard Makes Hand Engraving Affordable Aug 19, 2025

Louis Erard Makes Hand Engraving Affordable

Louis Erard’s niche is making either watchmakers or techniques affordable – the Gravée Main is hand engraving priced accessibly. The watch is entirely engraved by hand, across the bezel, case, crown, and buckle, with a classical leaf motif by Maksym Shavlak, a watchmaker and engraver from Ukraine. The resulting look is a blend of Gothic and Baroque, but the underlying watch retains the usual dimensions and movement of Louis Erard, while the dial is glossy black lacquer that evokes fired enamel. Initial thoughts I appreciate Louis Erard’s consistent focus on making interesting names or techniques affordable; its recent Damascus steel regulator being an example. Some micro-brands or one-man shops do the same for slightly less, particularly for certain decorative techniques, but without the finesse of Louis Erard. A good deal of credit for this goes to Manuel Emch, who oversees Louis Erard and lends his eye to the brand’s creations. The Gravée Main sits squarely in the sweet spot where Louis Erard excels. Admittedly, the ornate look is not for everyone, some might even find it tacky. But I like it; the look is appealing and the execution shows attention to detail. The tone-on-tone lacquered dial is a smart complement to the elaborate case. And that attention to detail is also evident in the engraving, which continues onto both the crown and buckle, which are sometimes overlooked. Price-wise the Gravée Main is pricier than the typical Louis Erard limited edition, bu...

A History and Guide – How to Use a Dive Bezel Worn & Wound
Aug 18, 2025

A History and Guide – How to Use a Dive Bezel

John Scott Haldane had a problem. Britain’s Royal Navy had commissioned the Scottish physiologist to find a solution for a unique problem facing their divers: decompression. Known since the mid-19th century, decompression sickness (DCS) posed a serious risk for divers and laborers working in pressurized environments, such as caissons. It was his job to develop a set of decompression tables for safe diving operations. It boils down to how gases act under pressure. When breathing a gas mixture at depth - for the sake of simplicity, we will say compressed air, or approximately 78% nitrogen and 21% oxygen, with the rest being inert gases - the oxygen is used up by the body, and the nitrogen is absorbed into the bloodstream. This build-up will dissolve as it is effectively off-gassed, as it does when each of us breathes here on the surface. Enter pressure. Should a diver undergo a rapid change in pressure, such as by ascending too quickly, the nitrogen will separate from the blood and form bubbles in the tissues and joints. The resulting pain has a habit of contorting its victims, giving DCS its more readily-known nickname of “the bends.” John Scott Haldane had a problem. Britain’s Royal Navy had commissioned the Scottish physiologist to find a solution for a unique problem facing their divers: decompression. Known since the mid-19th century, decompression sickness (DCS) posed a serious risk for divers and laborers working in pressurized environments, such as caisso...

My Favorite Datejust Is A 1601 No-Lume Lavender Dial Fratello
Aug 18, 2025

My Favorite Datejust Is A 1601 No-Lume Lavender Dial

Choosing my favorite Datejust wasn’t a simple exercise. From 2021 through most of 2023, I acquired several vintage references. Each one was chosen for a reason. Hard-to-find dials combined with sharp cases and atypical bezels were my game. Two years later, these Datejust models remain as regular options in my wearing rotation. They’re fantastic, fit […] Visit My Favorite Datejust Is A 1601 No-Lume Lavender Dial to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Vs. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 Fratello
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 Good Aug 17, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Vs. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41

Good morning and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Last week, we had a surprising matchup between two titanium high-beat chronographs that ended up in a tie. This week, we’re curious to see what happens when we put two stainless steel integrated bracelet reinterpretations up against each other. In 2023, IWC brought back the Ingenieur, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Vs. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 to read the full article.

New: Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 & PAM01698 Carbotech™ Deployant
Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 Aug 16, 2025

New: Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 & PAM01698 Carbotech™

Panerai’s Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 and PAM01698 are tactical evolutions of the brand’s dive watch lineage, paying tribute to the Italian Navy’s aviation division (Aviazione Navale). Both models feature green-grained dials, radar-style subdials, and engraved casebacks, but diverge in material execution-one in brushed steel, the other in Panerai’s proprietary Carbotech™.

eBay Finds: Another Cool Vintage LED, a Gorgeous Grand Seiko, and an Art Deco Bulova Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Aug 15, 2025

eBay Finds: Another Cool Vintage LED, a Gorgeous Grand Seiko, and an Art Deco Bulova

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Shreve & Co LED  Another week, another cool vintage LED! I honestly don’t know why there are so many of these coming out of the woodwork, but I’m glad they are. This one is a vintage Shreve & Co. with a nice space-age chunky look. The 36.5mm steel case is in great shape with sharp edges and unpolished. The bracelet is original and complements the watch perfectly. The display works and the watch runs as it should. Nice 1970’s goodness from a seldom seen brand. View auction here Vintage Grand Seiko 6146-8000  We have a real winner here, a vintage Grand Seiko 6146-8000 dress watch. This 61GS epitomizes Grand Seiko’s Grammar of Design aesthetic. The broad planes, sharp edges and mix of brushed and polished finishes is simply sublime. The silver dial is clean and has the classic simple stick markers and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. The dauphine hands have gorgeous bevels, a testament to the precise craftsmanship of the Grand Seiko line. The 6146 movement is hi-beat, pulsing at 36000 beats per hour. The deeply grooved crown is original and signed with the GS logo as it should. The gold GS caseback medallion is in really nice condition as well. Really a beautiful piece here. Vie...

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands Fratello
Aug 15, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands

Another Friday, another list! This week, it’s time for the second installment of our series on affordable watches. Last week, we discussed our favorite mechanical watches under €500 from big brands. This second article focuses on the best watches for under €500 from small brands. Call them independents or microbrands, you get the idea. The […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands to read the full article.