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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Fratello EDC: RJ Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Porter-Yoshida, Leica, Dupont, Persol, and More Fratello
Jul 26, 2025

Fratello EDC: RJ Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Porter-Yoshida, Leica, Dupont, Persol, and More

It’s funny how one’s everyday carry (EDC) can change in just a few years. Even though I have been applying the “buy once, cry once” philosophy for many years, it seems I cry more often than I would have thought. Many things from my 2022 EDC article have either been replaced or moved to the […] Visit Fratello EDC: RJ Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Porter-Yoshida, Leica, Dupont, Persol, and More to read the full article.

Louis Vuitton Announces Semi-Finalists for 2026 Independent Watchmaking Prize SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Announces Semi-Finalists Jul 26, 2025

Louis Vuitton Announces Semi-Finalists for 2026 Independent Watchmaking Prize

The second edition of biennial Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives is now well underway, and the 20 semi-finalists have been announced. The candidate pool is exceptionally diverse, with makers hailing from eight different countries and espousing a variety of different product philosophies. The watch prize is the brainchild of Jean Arnault, who leads Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking initiatives. A passionate supporter of independent watchmaking, Mr Arnault created the watch prize in 2023 to recognise talented watchmakers and designers and give one lucky winner a helping hand. Raúl Pagès won the first edition of the watch prize. Image – Louis Vuitton Initial thoughts I try not to put too much stock in the various prizes that are handed out in the watch industry. Many such contests suffer from a lack of participation, a problem that makes it difficult to take the results seriously. That said, it’s worth paying attention to the Louis Vuitton watch prize for a few reasons. First, it’s unusually inclusive, welcoming entrants from all over the world, ranging from journeymen watchmakers like Bernhard Zwinz and David Candaux to emergent Chinese brands like Behrens and Fam Al Hut. Second, the candidate pool is not sub-divided into arbitrary categories, meaning there’s plenty of competition to keep things interesting. Finally, the outcome is meaningful – the winner gets a €150,000 cash prize and a one-year mentorship at La Fabrique du Temps with Michel Nava...

A. Lange & Söhne Updates a Grail Watch Worn & Wound
Casio nally find myself looking Jul 25, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Updates a Grail Watch

I occasionally find myself looking for a good excuse to write about some of my favorite watches, as doing so with some context feels too self-satisfying. This excuse can be a guide, a group editorial, or, as in the case today, a marginally new version of an existing watch that I adore, but haven’t had the chance to divulge my feelings on adequately. That watch is the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, as today, Lange has announced the Zeitwerk Date in rose gold. While certainly exciting for people who said, “If only this watch came in rose gold” as a topic for a whole article, a new case metal is a bit lacking. Conveniently, I have a lot to say about the Zeitwerk in general. There was a time not that long ago when asked what my “grail watch” was, my default answer was the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. Why? Few watches mix the classic and the contemporary quite so well. They’re unique, handsome, and ooze tasteful luxury. They aren’t blingy or ostentatious. Additionally, nearly any watch enthusiast appreciates them, so it was an answer that didn’t require much explanation. However, as my knowledge of watches has grown, another aspect has emerged that I find fascinating: the complexity it takes to create something that seems so simple. If jump hours are a rare complication, jump minutes are unicorns. The only other I’m aware of is the IWC Tribute to Pallweber. Although the idea seems simple enough, making a disk jump once a minute, two disks every ten, and three disk...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date in Pink Gold SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 25, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date in Pink Gold

A. Lange & Söhne refreshes its arguably most avant-garde collection with the Zeitwerk Date in pink gold matched with a dark grey dial. The new Zeitwerk Date joins the existing model in white gold as a regular production model, and retains the L043.8 movement featuring the signature digital time display driven by a constant force mechanism. The Zeitwerk Date is one of Lange’s simplest watches in terms of information displayed – just the time and date – but stands out as one of the brand’s most technically complex creations. Despite the low volume of production and esoteric mechanics, the Zeitwerk is also one of Lange’s most iconic models, alongside the Lange 1 and Datograph, thanks to its striking design that departs from the usual aesthetics of the normally staid brand. Initial Thoughts While the original Zeitwerk Date in white gold was the first of the second-generation Zeitwerk, bringing with it sweeping changes to the Zeitwerk movement, the new model is stylistic variation that serves to fill a gap in the collection. It offers more choice (actually just a binary choice) for someone looking for a Zeitwerk that is more complex than the base model, but not ready to go all the way to the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater that costs five times as much. The original Zeitwerk Date was a good, perhaps even great, watch inside and out, and this is too – though it could probably could have come a little sooner. It’s still a large watch, but the bulk is easy to justify consi...

Five Lightweight Knives Perfect for Summer EDC Worn & Wound
Jul 24, 2025

Five Lightweight Knives Perfect for Summer EDC

Just over a month ago, several of our contributors, myself included, penned an article about our favorite summer watches. While we each had a personal preference and strong reasoning behind our choices, it got me thinking about my summer EDC, and how it changes as temps begin to rise. Throughout winter and spring, I tend to carry larger pocket knives, but I find myself reaching for lighter options as the temperature and humidity increases. While they’re just as capable as anything else, these lighter blades carry more comfortably in shorts, and I even forget I’m carrying them sometimes. With this in mind, I thought it might be a good idea to list out some of my favorite summer EDC knives and why I reach for them. Before we dive in, let’s look over the parameters I used to select these knives. I think one of the most ambiguous qualities that I’ll talk about is “lightweight”. While there isn’t a set standard and everyone is likely to have their own opinions, I’m using 2.5 ounces (70ish grams for my metric friends) as my max weight. As I’d come to find out while verifying the weight of my included knives, many of the staple EDC options fall under this weight! Using this weight also prevents me from sneaking in some of those heavier knives that I enjoy so much. Secondly, the knife has to be safe to carry in your pocket. While a single utility blade is very lightweight, having an exposed, sharp edge in your pocket just seems like a terrible idea. Along these l...

Seiko Turtle SRPE93 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Jul 24, 2025

Seiko Turtle SRPE93 Review

The Seiko Prospex SRPE93, the most recent version of the legendary Seiko Turtle dive watch, hit the market relatively recently, in 2021, but its lineage can be traced all the way back to the 1970s. What makes this defiantly retro-looking tool watch such a favorite of enthusiasts even today? There’s a lot more to it than the very accessible price point, as we’ll explore here in this in-depth examination - or, a look under the shell, if you will -  of the SRPE93 “Turtle.” Seiko, the world’s oldest and most established Japanese watchmaking brand, was one of the pioneers of the dive-watch genre and it has long stood apart from its Swiss contemporaries in this field (i.e. Rolex, Blancpain, and others) for its use of bold and unconventional designs. One of its most off-the-wall and yet most enduringly popular designs is the original "Turtle” - aka, Ref. 6306 and 6309 - which made its debut in 1976. The former reference was made exclusively for the Japanese market (and thus, vintage examples are much rarer and more valuable), and the latter was sold to international customers. The reptilian nickname derived from the watches’ cushion-shaped cases with softly rounded lugs, which brought to mind the silhouette of a turtle when viewed from above. The reference numbers for the watches essentially matched those of their automatic movements - Caliber 6306A, which included hacking seconds and Caliber 6309A, which did not.  The Turtle’s unusual look and rugged ...

Casio AE1200 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Jul 24, 2025

Casio AE1200 Review

The Casio AE1200 World Time watch aka the Casio Royale is one of the most beloved and functionally robust watches on the market, digital or otherwise. The world map display on the dial along with that circular “analog” subdial have captured the imagination and wrist real estate of so many enthusiasts over the years who find themselves caught between the relative hassle of a mechanical world time watch and the malaise onset by an over-reliance on smart phones. You can trace this watch back nearly 40 years to the Casio “Twin-Graph” AE-20 and AE-200 watches, which had an LCD screen that was divided into both analog-style and digital display sections. Also released just shortly after in 1987 was the W-50U, which had a world-map display on the screen. In 2012 we saw the launch of the Casio AE1200 which has gone on to be one of the most beloved and popular digital watches out there. The "Casio Royale" So, why is the watch referred to as the Casio Royale? Well, it’s actually a pretty flimsy explanation but the name has certainly stuck. In the 1983 James Bond movie Octopussy, Roger Moore wears a Seiko G757 Sports 100 watch that gets a lot of closeup screen time. The resemblance between the Casio AE1200 and the Seiko G757 is uncanny so it’s not hard to see why fans connected the two. And, of course, the name Casio Royale is also a playful reference to “Casino Royale,” another Bond movie. And while “Casio” and “Casino” aren’t exactly orthographic neighbors,...

Second City, First Class: A Look Back at Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2025 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward s C60 Trident Reef Jul 23, 2025

Second City, First Class: A Look Back at Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2025

Earlier this month, Windup Watch Fair returned to Chicago, marking the 10th anniversary of the Windup series with a three-day celebration that packed Venue West with energy, excitement, and a thriving community of watch lovers. From July 11–13, the West Loop space pulsed with the sounds of winding crowns, rotating bezels, and passionate conversation. As always, the event was free and open to the public, drawing everyone from longtime collectors and industry insiders to curious newcomers discovering mechanical timekeeping for the first time. Over 70 brands filled the space, and this year’s Fair felt more expansive and dynamic than ever. Among the standout moments were the lead sponsor installations, which showcased the diverse spirit of the Fair. Atelier Wen’s “Perception” model, featuring hand-engraved guilloché dials and a homegrown micro-rotor movement, was a fan favorite, embodying the blend of artistry and innovation that Windup thrives on. Just across the room, Citizen celebrated 40 years of its legendary Aqualand with a special anniversary edition that tied directly into a live recording of The Worn & Wound Podcast that explored Citizen’s dive legacy and the corresponding Windup in a Lake dive expedition in Lake Michigan. Casio’s presence this year centered on the MTGB4000, a tech-forward G-SHOCK that balanced extreme durability with sleek presentation. Christopher Ward’s C60 Trident Reef, meanwhile, drew curious glances and engaged discussions with ...

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Jul 23, 2025

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Review

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono hit the market, somewhat unexpectedly, in 2017, boldly elevating the already red-hot Black Bay collection into a new tier of horological prestige and marking the debut of a collaboration (again, rather unexpected) between Rolex-owned Tudor and its Swiss sport-watch competitor Breitling. Nearly a decade later, the model still represents the highest level of complication in Tudor’s 21st-Century lineup, and yet this Tudor chronograph also remains very manageable, as a subfamily, in terms of material, size, and colorway options - an area in which the larger Black Bay collection, some might argue, has gone a bit far in the opposite direction, now encompassing three distinctive iterations: original Black Bay, Black Bay 58, and Black Bay 54 (which we reviewed here), all touting different sizing and multiple colorways and materials. And this doesn’t even include the other “complicated” extension of the line, the Black Bay GMT, which recently debuted in the “58” sizing and which seems to unveil a new bicolor bezel or dial color every year since its 2018 debut. Originally called the Heritage Black Bay - as it was clearly an homage to vintage dive watches from Tudor’s watchmaking history, which began in 1946 - the OG Black Bay model traces its aesthetic roots to the Oyster Prince Submariner, released in 1954, one year after big brother Rolex rolled out its own much more famous Submariner watch. This original version, Ref. 7922, used the ...

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Henry’s Top Choices From Seiko, IWC, Rolex, And More Fratello
Rolex Jul 23, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Henry’s Top Choices From Seiko, IWC, Rolex, And More

When the opportunity arose to tackle a Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025 feature, I jumped at the chance. My managing editor Nacho and I did have a chuckle, though. You see, here in Sydney, Australia, it is currently winter. Southern Hemisphere, represent! When the discussion first occurred to write this feature, I looked up the […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Henry’s Top Choices From Seiko, IWC, Rolex, And More to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Reviewed by Tim Mosso: A Machine with Heart and Soul Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 23, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Reviewed by Tim Mosso: A Machine with Heart and Soul

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon lives up to its name. It has a date, a chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon. But it has more: this watch has character. Assigning human traits to a cold machine is a – romantic – fool’s errand, but it’s also irresistible in the presence of a masterpiece. A. Lange & Söhne’s warmest watch is more than a machine with a heartbeat. It has soul.

Bulgari “Beyond Time” Exhibition and a Singapore-Exclusive Octo Worldtimer SJX Watches
Bulgari Beyond Time” Exhibition Jul 23, 2025

Bulgari “Beyond Time” Exhibition and a Singapore-Exclusive Octo Worldtimer

Bulgari has just opened Beyond Time in Singapore, which takes place in Paragon Mall from July 18 to August 10, 2025 and is open to the public daily. An exhibition dedicated to the brand’s watches and jewelled timepieces, Beyond Time also marks the launch of the Octo Roma Worldtimer SG60, a limited edition only for Singapore. The exhibition includes the record setting Octo Finissimo complications – some of the thinnest wristwatches ever made – as well as a watchmaking “masterclass” led by a watchmaker from Bulgari’s Neuchâtel manufacture. Singapore National Day The event coincides with Singapore’s 60th year of independence on August 9. For the occasion, Bulgari has created the Octo Roma Worldtimer SG60, a limited edition accented in white and red, the national colours of Singapore, with a case in black DLC-coated steel. Other goodies specific to Singapore’s National Day weekend include postcards by Singaporean artists, and personalised poetry verses. The Octo Roma Worldtimer SG60 is delivered on a pair of straps in red and black Located on the ground floor of the mall, the B-shaped exhibition space is inspired by the work of German architect Mies van der Rohe and his close collaborator, designer Lilly Reich. The exhibits are organised thematically, with the Serpenti and Octo collections each having a space of their own, but the complicated watches are the centrepiece. The complicated watch display showcases the brand’s accomplishments in pushing the bound...

Up Close: Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref Jul 23, 2025

Up Close: Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G

Just launched earlier this year, the Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G-001 is the latest in a long line of perpetual calendars with retrograde date, dating to 1993 in the modern day and even further with vintage watches. Though essentially identical in terms of function and display, the ref. 6159G is the most modern take on the concept to date, while being entirely improved in terms of the movement and case. The key elements that distinguish the ref. 6159G are the dial and case: the translucent sapphire dial is tinted in grey and black, while the case sports a bezel and case back finished with clous de Paris guilloche. It’s an unusual combination, but appealing overall, although some elements, like the generous dose of lume, feel out of place. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s catalogue is still mostly classically oriented, with watches like the Calatrava ref. 6196P capturing the traditional Patek Philippe style. But the brand has been moving towards a more modern aesthetic. Not all the attempts in the direction have been successful, but the ref. 6159G fortunately manages to do it well. Being modern in flavour also sets the ref. 6159G apart from its predecessors like the ref. 5159. While earlier generations of the retrograde perpetual calendar were fairly evolutionary in style, the ref. 6159G is visually unique. Fundamentally, the ref. 6159G is not exceptionally novel – but it looks good. The hobnail bezel and sapphire dial is a surprising combi...

Top 10 Watch Brands In India Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 22, 2025

Top 10 Watch Brands In India

Before I get into the top 10 watch brands in India, it’s worth talking about the Indian watch market overall. This is because even in the face of some regional slowdown, India has become one of the fastest growing markets for Swiss watch exports with an astounding 25% increase in 2025, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Brands like Rado, Longines, and Montblanc are as popular as ever in India, but what about the state of watchmaking in India? Well, it’s a bit of a mixed bag, and there are a few things we need to understand before getting into the my selections for the top 10 watch brands in India. First, India is not yet at the level of having a watchmaking infrastructure like that of China. The basic history of Indian watchmaking begins with the nationalized HMT in the 1960s and '70s, but the quartz revolution had a big, negative impact on mechanical watchmaking in the country. I’d say 2015 marked a change in the landscape of Indian watches, when microbrands for enthusiasts began to pick up in popularity. Again, while the infrastructure to manufacture movement components and parts in India is still not there, the passion for history and design has propelled some brands as hometown enthusiast darlings. I spent quite a bit of time researching this topic, and I do want to shout out YouTubers  WatchgyanHindi  and Watch and More India who are making some compelling Hindi content for the South Asian watch enthusiast community. In this list of the ...

Jaquet Droz Surprises with a Unique Dragon Tourbillon SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jul 22, 2025

Jaquet Droz Surprises with a Unique Dragon Tourbillon

Continuing with its focus on unique, custom-order watches, Jaquet Droz’s latest brings together art, film and watchmaking. Commissioned by an unnamed collector (who presumably loves J.R.R. Tolkien’s tales), the Tourbillon Dragon “John Howe” stands as a fine example of Swiss watchmaker’s ability to blend artistic crafts with technical watchmaking. It reprises an earlier commission that similarly united The Lord of the Rings and Jaquet Droz watchmaking. Initial thoughts Custom-made one-offs are not uncommon in the world of high horology, with collectors regularly commissioning unique timepieces from both independent and established makers. Most of George Daniels’ creations were commissions, as were the ultra-complicated pocket watches delivered by Vacheron Constantin to a certain Mr Berkley. Unlike other brands, however, Jaquet Droz is now largely specialised in custom or bespoke commissions. It also takes a different and unique approach by collaborating with both the client and an artist of the client’s choosing in making wearable pieces of art. Here the artist John Howe, the Canadian illustrator who was responsible for visualising Tolkien’s fantasy world for the novels and later became artistic director of The Lord of the Rings film series. The timepiece reproduces an artwork created by Mr Howe as a large scale painting that was then was adapted to wristwatch format.  Beyond the impressive miniature painting and pedigree of the motif, the watch stands firm...

Fratello EDC: Thomas Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From YStudio, Carl Friedrik, Fujifilm, And More Fratello
Jul 22, 2025

Fratello EDC: Thomas Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From YStudio, Carl Friedrik, Fujifilm, And More

When I wrote my Fratello EDC (Everyday Carry) article three years ago, I never expected it to be popular among readers. As it turns out, the Fratelli love to sneak a peek into our bags and pockets. So, by popular demand, we are back with another series about our everyday carry essentials, the stuff we […] Visit Fratello EDC: Thomas Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From YStudio, Carl Friedrik, Fujifilm, And More to read the full article.