Hodinkee
Introducing: Three New TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton Dials
TAG Heuer strips back a classic in time for the Monaco Grand Prix this weekend.
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Skeleton Dial
As has become tradition, TAG Heuer is launching a new Monaco chronograph to mark the annual Formula 1 race in the principality of the same name. While past editions for the Monaco Grand Prix leaned towards vintage in terms of style, the Monaco Skeleton Dial is almost entirely modern. Though the watch retains the trademark Monaco case and even many elements of the dial, it has no practically no dial, most of which has been removed to reveal the movement below. Initial thoughts Just like the recent Monza Flyback and Carrera “Glassbox”, the Monaco Skeleton Dial continues TAG Heuer’s pivot towards contemporary designs that its chief executive Frederic Arnault has indicated is the way forward. This is a good thing, because it allows the brand to move away from being reliant on the vintage-esque sports watches that are all too common in this price segment. The new Monaco itself manages to look very much like a Monaco while still being very different. Despite the seemingly opposite characteristics, everything works well together, although the look is certainly more appealing in the all-black iteration than its siblings. The only caveat is the price, which at about US$11,000 makes this a third more expensive than a Monaco with the same movement and case but a conventional dial. That feels like a bit too much for the open-worked dial, which admittedly required substantial reworking of the movement. Loosely vintage inspired The Monaco Skeleton Dial gets its name from, well, a...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The anOrdain Model 3 Limited Edition For Hodinkee
A collection of 25 hand-engraved sunburst enamel dials.
Quill & Pad
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire: a Minute Repeater Housed Entirely in Transparent Sapphire Crystal – Reprise
In celebration of the 25th anniversary of the L.U.C collection, Chopard unveiled a minute repeater at Watches and Wonders 2022, which once again demonstrates the technical prowess of the manufacture. Part of an upcoming set called The Trilogy of Sound, the L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire pushes the boundaries of the sophisticated grand complication genre and marks some firsts in the realm of haute horlogerie.
Time+Tide
The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu evokes a sense of occult hedonism (in a good way)
When I first came across the Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu in white ceramic, I was blown away by both its concept and its execution. When we talk about artistry in watchmaking, we’re usually discussing traditional methods such as enamel, laqcuer, stone marquetry etc. In a more contemporary setting, we take into account the sculptural … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu evokes a sense of occult hedonism (in a good way) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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LONGINES - The V.H.P. With the Craziest Dial is For Australia! (Gold Coast 2018 Comm Games Edition)
Time+Tide
An evening of watches, aviation and motorsport with Bremont
On the evening of the Australian Grand Prix, Time+Tide were invited to an evening with Bremont that featured a guest appearance by co-founder Giles English. This was set to be the final event held in the brand’s current Melbourne boutique located on St. Collins Lane, before the move later in the year to their new venue … ContinuedThe post An evening of watches, aviation and motorsport with Bremont appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “End of Days” 43 mm
Having already unveiled a slew of watches ranging from the uber-impressive Universelle grand complication to a compact Royal Oak with a turquoise stone dial, Audemars Piguet (AP) is also marking the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore. The commemorative editions started with the brand dropping the all-ceramic version of the original designed by Emmanuel Gueit. And they continue with the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “End of Days” 43 mm, a tribute to the watch worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in the 1999 film that was the brand’s first celebrity limited edition. Initial thoughts From the onset, it is clear this is not a remake. Instead, AP has restyled the Offshore 43 mm, combining the black-and-yellow livery of the original “End of Days” with an all-ceramic case. The result is a good looking sports chronograph that brings with it some of the original’s nostalgia – the original “EOD” was one of the hottest limited editions of its era. The new “End of Days” is a massive upgrade from the original in terms of materials and finish. The ceramic case is far more robust than the original’s black-coated steel, while the movement is now a sophisticated in-house calibre. But all that comes with a big price tag. At US$60,300, the new “End of Days” costs almost double its titanium counterparts. The price premium for ceramic is pretty standard across the AP lineup, so while it is expected it is still substantial. At the same time, the new “End of Days...
Worn & Wound
Norqain Celebrates their Fifth Anniversary with a Quintet of New Releases, and a Bracelet with a Frequently Requested Feature
Norqain is celebrating their fifth anniversary this week with the release of five all new watches in the Independence collection. Five years is an interesting marker to consider. It’s both an impressive accomplishment for any new brand to stick around for that long – we can all point to small, upstart brands that have come and gone in much less time. But it’s also a vanishingly short period in the grand scheme of watchmaking, where the most durable brands have had literal centuries to build their identities. All the more impressive for Norqain then, as they’ve carved out an aesthetic that is immediately recognizable, and have made a ton of progress in developing a culture around their watches that focuses on a new generation of collectors. All of the new anniversary pieces seem to be born out of those ideas, and continue to iterate on what is now a well established design language. The new watches breakdown as follows: we have two new Independence Skeleton references in 42mm cases, one DLC coated, the other with blue accents; two Independence 40mm pieces, one with a brown gradient dial, the other with a green gradient dial; and a new reference aimed at the female market, an Independence 40mm with a mint mother-of-pearl dial and diamond accents. The Independence Skeleton watches are follow ups to earlier skeleton releases dating back over the last two years. The DLC coated version has red gold plated hands and applied hour markers, while the non-coated version f...
Time+Tide
New releases show platinum is the heavy metal that it’s still OK to like
The English physicist and mathmatician Sir Isaac Newton believed that for every action there is an equal opposite reaction. Chinese cosmology stands by a similar universal concept in the form of the yin yang that pertains to contrary but interconnected forces. Admittedly, this is rather piddly compared to those grand ideas, but I wonder if … ContinuedThe post New releases show platinum is the heavy metal that it’s still OK to like appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Quest For My Ultimate Fountain Pen Part 1: The All-Over-The-Place Period – Reprise
Martin Green's quest for the ultimate fountain pen began unexpectedly, and over the following decades he learned many things, including nothing compares to writing with a gold nib! Join Martin as he embarks upon part one of his personal fountain pen journey, which includes an inherited piece, a demonstrator, over-the-top colors, and cloisonné enamel.
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Top 10 Types of Watches To Avoid - Don't Buy A Watch Until You've Seen This!
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons
When iconic American watchmaking brands are brought up, it’s impossible not to mention Bulova. Born out of the mind of Joseph Bulova in 1875, the brand has been making quality timepieces for nearly one and a half centuries, with the brand’s 150th anniversary coming up soon. When a brand gets their start so early in the grand scheme of American history, you can trace the watches back to specific periods of innovation and design language. Today, we’re exploring the breadth of Bulova by highlighting some of their most iconic models that are still made today. Whether you want to learn about WWII watches from the 1940s, space-worn watches of the 1960s, brightly-colored dive watches of the 1970s, or technology from the dawn of quartz watches, Bulova has something to pique your interest. Let’s take a closer look at some modern interpretations of some of Bulova’s most recognizable timepieces. The post The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Chief Editor’s Choice of the most impressive 3 watches of the W&W; 2023 season
And to round up this year's picks, the Chief Editor makes his top 3 picks from this year's show. Picks from Lange, JLC and Grand Seiko.
Time+Tide
New Rolex Day-Date 36 model go old-school and very funky
If the bubbly Oyster Perpetual wasn’t quite whimsical enough for you, or was not the right type of colourful – Rolex has got you covered. Introduced in two new variants, it revives the funky stone dials of the 1970s and fully enters the realm of quirky with high-end champlevé enamel dials – emojis and inspirational … ContinuedThe post New Rolex Day-Date 36 model go old-school and very funky appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2023 Exhibition in Geneva
As is now tradition, Patek Philippe is unveiling its Rare Handcrafts collection for the year at its boutique in Geneva alongside Watches & Wonders (W&W;) that takes place at the same time. Open to the public from April 1 to 15, Rare Handcrafts 2023 encompasses 67 timepieces – including 22 Dome Clocks and a dozen pocket watches – all decorated with a variety of artisanal techniques ranging from wood marquetry to cloisonné enamel. Amongst the highlights from the collection is the Calatrava ref. 5189G-001 “1948 Nations Grand Prix” (pictured above), a wristwatch with a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the automobile race that took place in Geneva from 1946 to 1950. Another is the pocket watch “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001 that is finished with wood marquetry on its back and champlevé enamel along the case and bow. “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001 In addition to the new launches, the exhibition also has on show a selection of vintage and antique timepieces from the Patek Philippe Museum. Rare Handcrafts 2023 is open daily to the public from April 1 to 15, except on Sundays. Patek Philippe Salons Rue du Rhône 41 1204 Genève Switzerland Admission is free but registration is required and it can be done on Patek.com.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage Craftsmanship Limited Editions
Popular for making artisanal dials affordable, Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship series has been facelifted for the 110th anniversary of the brand’s first watch. The dials continue to be decorated with techniques ranging from fired enamel to Japanese lacquer, but the Presage case has been refined into an all-new design. The restyled Presage is making its debut as a quartet of limited editions with dials in fired enamel (SPB393), traditional lacquer known as urushi (SPB395), Arita porcelain (SPB397), and translucent Shippo enamel (SPB399). The Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399 Initial thoughts Amongst the most affordable watches with fancy dials, the Presage Craftsmanship series has always been a good value proposition. Made with artisanal techniques typically found on pricier watches, the dials are all impressively executed especially considering the price, which starts at US$1,450 for the enamel dial SPB393 and tops out at US$2,050 for the SPB399 with a Shippo enamel dial. While the dial work was always impressive, earlier models had cases that were simple in form and somewhat chunky. Now Seiko has solved that with a redesigned case that appears thinner and more refined. The new case style makes it debut on this quartet but given its merits will inevitably become standard for future Presage Craftsmanship models. Due to the 6R series movements within, the new case is still large (the larger model is almost 41 mm wide and over 14 mm high) but it has been significantly r...
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We've Never Had an Audemars Piguet Like This | IN THE METAL
Hodinkee
Staff Picks: The $10k Challenge: Here's What We'd Buy Right Now
How would you spend ten grand? We asked our team. Their answers may surprise you – though in Danny's case, probably not.
Revolution
The True Story Behind the 40mm De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar That Became Grail Watch 6
In 2022, when De Bethune relaunched their incredible DB25 Perpetual Calendar in an all-new case size of 40mm, collectors sat up and took notice as it made an already thoughtfully-designed grand complication watch even more well-proportioned for the wrist. Wei and Jeremiah discuss the genesis of this sea change in the DB25 Perpetual Calendar’s case […]
SJX Watches
Editorial: An Appraisal of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle
Audemars Piguet recently launched more than a dozen new models and predictably it was the Royal Oaks that got the most attention. But the most impressive new release was unquestionably the Code 11.59 Universelle. It’s a grand complication that boasts multiple complications most cleverly executed, in a remarkably compact case – the size of the watch is an achievement in itself. Though the Universelle is positively slender for a grand complication, it’s still a large watch. But criticising the Universelle for its somewhat ungainly looks is to miss the point completely. Just like a mid-engine Ferrari will never be a roomy vehicle capable of conveying four adults in comfort, a grand complication will never be a svelte watch. Even Francois-Paul Journe, a legendary talent who has long specialised in slim complications, needs a lot of volume to contain his most complicated watch, the double-sided Astronomic Souveraine. Grand complications, or more specifically mega complications, like the Universelle, are never pretty. That’s simply a matter of necessity – the mechanical complexity inevitably results in an enormous case and confusing dial. The F.P. Journe Astronomic, Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, and Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are all equally large and confusing. The Astronomic is the smallest of the lot and it’s still 44 mm by 13.7 mm. And the Grandmaster Chime is a titanic 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. I can confirm the Grandmaster Chime is titanic no matter ho...
Hodinkee
Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In Chicago and Austin
These next classes will be hosted by Oak & Oscar, Grand Seiko & Ben Bridge Jeweler.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Audemars Piguet's Most Complicated Watch Ever: The New Code 11.59 Universelle RD#4
A total of 23 complications – including a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, grand and petite sonnerie, flyback chronograph, and tourbillon – show AP's prowess as a true watchmaker of ultra-complicated watches.
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Don't Buy a Patek Philippe Until You've Seen This H. Moser & Cie Watch | Watchfinder & Co.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: The Best Audemars Piguet Release We Haven't Covered (And AP Teases Its CPO Program) And Xhevdet Rexhepi's First Watch
The week in drops and news, plus our ex-newbie picks a Grand Seiko and an off-topic ode to vintage Movado.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Green Aventurine
With at least two iterations launched since the model’s debut – first in enamel and then onyx – the Code 11.59 tourbillon is third time lucky with the latest version of the model being the most striking to date. The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Flying Tourbillon Green Aventurine is in 18k pink gold with the centrepiece being the fired enamel dial dial containing crushed aventurine glass. Initial thoughts Bold and contemporary appears to be the name of the game for Audemars Piguet, as the recent releases indicate a strong push of the Code 11.59 lineup refreshed with modernised and adventurous livery. And the new Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon delivers on that front – love it or hate it, it is a markedly distinct variation of its conservative predecessors. The green dial combined with the package of the pink gold case and black ceramic case middle offers a striking contrast that’s intriguing in person. Colour contrast Black ceramic is the recent trend for Audemars Piguet, as the brand has been increasingly using the material as the case middle for the Code 11.59 lineup. Sandwiched between a pink gold bezel and case back, the combination is a decidedly contemporary appearance especially when paired with the stock rubber strap. But of course, the appeal of the new model is the green aventurine dial. Made by firing crushed aventurine glass in an 800°C furnace, the dial glimmers and sparkles under the light. The green colour luxuriously contrasts the dial adornments...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Universelle
Undoubtedly the flagship of its recent new launches, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle is the brand’s most complicated wristwatch in recent years – or perhaps ever. A project that began in 2016, the uber-complication rooted in history: it is a tribute to L’Universelle, the grand complication pocket watch from 1899 made by AP for German watchmaker Union. But the watch simultaneously pushes the brand’s modern-day watchmaking to the limit, particularly in terms of miniaturising highly complex mechanisms. The Universelle is available in two guises, the open dial above and the solid dial pictured further up Officially one of the brand’s Research and Development timepieces – the model is also known as the RD#4 – the Universelle is an exercise in combining into a single wristwatch all the traditional mechanisms that constitute a grand complication, and then some – perpetual calendar, rattrapante chronograph with flyback, tourbillon, and grande et petite sonnerie with minute repeater. L’Universelle on display in the Audemars Piguet Museum Initial thoughts An assuming name that means little to anyone who doesn’t understand the historical inspiration, Universelle is a horological behemoth that captures AP’s industrial and mechanical capability. Though it has a highly modern design, the Universelle harks back to a bygone era of high watchmaking that prized highly complicated watches incorporating as many features as feasible into a (barely) wearable...
Time+Tide
Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum
Apparently, Rado can turn you into a tennis champion. When the British player, Andy Murray partnered with the Swiss brand in 2012, he’d never won a Grand Slam. After signing with Rado, however, he proceeded to win the US Open and then became the first Brit to conquer Wimbledon since 1936, when he won the … ContinuedThe post Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage 110th Anniversary SPB359
Seiko made history when it produced the first-ever made-in-Japan wristwatch in 1913. Known as the Laurel, the 1913 wristwatch was typical of the era when pocket watches were evolving into wristwatches. To mark the 110th anniversary of its first wristwatch, Seiko debuts the Presage Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary ref. SPB359. Featuring a fired enamel dial, the Presage 110th Anniversary is modelled on the 1913 original, right down to the case reminiscent of a pocket watch. Initial thoughts Seiko regularly rolls out Presage limited editions with dials ranging from porcelain to Japanese lacquer, but all share the same case style despite the diversity in dials. In contrast, the Presage 110th Anniversary is refreshingly different and unique within the Presage line-up. Not only is the case executed in the style of an early 20th century watch, it is also more compact than the typical Presage, measuring at 37.5 mm in diameter instead of the usual 40.5 mm. That said, the new Presage is still fairly thick at over 12 mm high as a consequence of the movement inside. Both the case design and dimensions give it a distinctly different look and feel from past Presage models. This means the anniversary edition has appeal even for someone who already owns a past Presage model. And as expected for Seiko, the Presage 110th Anniversary is solid value with a retail price of about US$2,000. The 1913 Laurel in the Seiko Museum Retro styling Entirely polished and stainless steel, the case of t...
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