Hodinkee
Introducing: The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25
A special limited edition in white gold with a black enamel dial.
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Hodinkee
A special limited edition in white gold with a black enamel dial.
SJX Watches
In a surprising move, Tudor is launching the Black Bay 58 18K (ref. 79018V-006) at Watches & Wonders 2024. Essentially the same watch as the 2021 model, the new 58 18K now sports a matching yellow-gold bracelet, whereas it was formerly only offered on a leather or fabric strap. The dial and the bezel remain in the same green colourway, with gilt markings that match the hue of the yellow-gold case and bracelet. The 39 mm case is complemented by an oversized crown embossed with the Tudor rose logo, while widely cut bevels on the lugs provide a pleasing contrast to the brushed finish of the case. Initial thoughts While the Black Bay 58 18K won’t have as much of a wide appeal as the Black Bay 58 GMT – simply as a matter of affordability – it is a perfect update for a model that looked incomplete on a strap. And the bracelet itself is noteworthy. I like fact that it does away with the fake rivets found on the steel models. The cleaner look feels more modern and functional. At US$32,100, the Black Bay 58 18K is far beyond the usual price range of Tudor, but arguably delivers a competitive value proposition as far as an all-gold diver’s watch goes. Granted, the price is not far off from the Rolex Submariner in gold, which retails for US$39,000, but relative to the competition (such as Omega and Breitling), it is perhaps the most competitive in its segment. All gold and no rivets The Black Bay 58 18K notably features a solid gold bracelet equipped with a “T-fit” clasp ...
Fratello
The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is one of my favorite releases of the past few years. The watch came out last year at Watches and Wonders and proved to be one of the show’s highlights. It’s spectacular salmon/copper dial shows the incredible potential of the watch. Not only is the color spectacular, but adding […] Visit Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Utilizing rose gold, diamonds, and a mother-of-pearl dial or two, each piece is a decidedly feminine take on sporty luxury.
Deployant
UN releases a Freak with a new release for 2024 - the Freak S Nomad. No dial, no crown and no hands. Return to conceptual origins of The Freak.
Monochrome
The sunburst green dial is not a new concept for Vacheron Constantin; there are references in the Traditionelle collection featuring the same finish. With that in mind, the new sporty and chic Overseas references, while adding a new adventurous direction, are essentially the same watches we have seen released in previous years, in pink gold […]
Fratello
Ever since Alpina introduced the updated aesthetic for its Alpiner Extreme collection in 2022, we have slowly seen more introductions with the same design signature. The newest addition to the Alpiner Extreme collection is a series of exciting quartz models. The four new releases include smaller cases, a Swiss quartz movement, and new dial colors. […] Visit Alpina Unveils The Alpiner Extreme Quartz And The Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic to read the full article.
Monochrome
Patek Philippe releases a new white gold reference of its popular Aquanaut Travel Time with a greyish-blue dial and matching strap. While many Patek fans mourned the discontinuation of the 5164A stainless steel Aquanaut earlier this year, the new white gold reference – a first for this model – is a handsome addition to the […]
Hodinkee
A textured dial and platinum case add some intrigue to the Crown's newest collection.
Time+Tide
Rolex’s dressiest piece gets the most luscious makeover possible. The guilloché of the dial is also a rare sight in a Rolex, matching really well with the coined bezel. It joins the line-up of yellow and Everose gold variants, with either a black or brown leather strap fitted with a case-matching platinum buckle. Fans of … ContinuedThe post Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
A fun fact is that the Sea-Dweller and the Deepsea are two different lines of watches on the Rolex website. But both Deepsea models prominently feature the Sea-Dweller name on the dial. With the introduction of the new yellow gold Rolex Deepsea ref. 136668LB, the Sea-Dweller moniker has been dropped. From now on, you will […] Visit Rolex Introduces A Full Yellow Gold Version Of The Deepsea - Diving In Style Taken To A Different Dimension to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The tourbillon is already one of the most mechanically impressive but elegant complications, neatly integrated into a tiny radius. For Watches & Wonders 2024, IWC sought to further iterate on the elegance of its manual-winding Portugieser Tourbillon, but rather than just introducing a new dial colour or strap option, the brand added a complication. Usually, … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night shows the globe in a novel way appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer is launching an upmarket of its sailing chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2024: the Carrera Chronograph Skipper in 18k rose gold is essentially the same as the steel iteration released in 2023, save for the precious metal case. Employing the well received “Glassbox” case, the Skipper has the signature domed dial flange that acts as an inner bezel, accentuated by a domed sapphire crystal. Unique to the Skipper model are the teal sub-dial at nine and the tri-colour register at three, both modelled on the vintage original. Initial Thoughts I am a fan of the Carrera Glassbox. It’s a surprisingly versatile model – some variants have a no-nonsense style that bring to mind the original racing chronographs of the 1960s, while others like the Skipper are strikingly coloured. Most variants nonetheless are inspired by the vintage Carrera in all its flavours. None of the other Carrera models come close to the Skipper’s sunburst blue dial with teal accents; it looks quite splendid under the sun. Not to mention that the Skipper happens to be very wearable at 39 mm. Whether the gold version is an appealing proposition is another questions altogether. Most would opt for the steel Skipper just as a matter of budget. That said, the rose gold Skipper at CHF 21,000, is an acceptable value proposition as solid-gold chronographs go. Its competitive advantage lies in the appealing, historically-inspired design and in-house column wheel chronograph movement – there are lots o...
Hodinkee
Plus the return of the lacquer dial with Santos Dumont four ways, in three colors, and three metals.
Hodinkee
From the white birch dial to the satisfying click of a new manual movement, Grand Seiko may have just dropped their best dress watch in years.
SJX Watches
Amidst the plethora of sports watches with integrated bracelets, the Zenith Defy Skyline stands out for its uncluttered design and relative affordability. Now the lineup is joined by the Defy Skyline Chronograph. The chronograph maintains many of the signature features of the existing models, such as its octagonal case and star-patterned dial. Debuting in three dial colours, Defy chronograph is amongst Zenith’s sportier offerings. Like other recent launches, it is powered by the second-generation El Primero calibre. Initial thoughts The Defy Skyline Chronograph is another option for an enthusiasts seeking a sports chronograph with a contemporary design and integrated bracelet. There are admittedly many, many options in this category, but the Defy chronograph is one of the value-minded offerings. At CHF11,900, the Defy chronograph with its in-house movement is competitively priced compared to other offerings in the sports watch market. The brand has opted for a conservative design while retaining a modern edge. Though the overall design is familiar, it has incorporates a few unusual details, including a polygonal flange around the dial. The watch is being launched in only three colours, all simple, easy shades that are well suited to the design, though not exciting. With the limited colours in mind, some might want to wait for subsequent releases that may adopt the colours found in its time-only counterpart. Zenith’s latest addition The Defy chronograph joins Zenith’...
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Parmigiani Fleurier is launching the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date, a concise sports watch clearly catered to those who want just two hands. Featuring a “Golden Siena” (or “salmon”) dial in its inaugural guise, the new Tonda PF barely deviates from the design of the original released in 2021, retaining the same case, proportions, and movement, but eliminates the date. Initial thoughts Among the sports watches launched during the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch fad, the Tonda PF stood out for its unique aesthetics that are neither boring nor flashy. While many of its competitors were often obvious derivatives of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Tonda PF was more original and managed to retain some of the traditional design codes of Parmigiani’s more formal watches. From a distance, it is challenging to tell the difference between the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date and the original. In fact, the only real difference lies in the dial design and colour. Although the differences are minimal, the salmon dial with a no-date layout offers a more refined aesthetic that will appeal to purists. At CHF23,500, the watch is priced the same as the date version and like it, is a decent-enough value proposition. Though it seems expensive when compared to more affordable alternatives like the Louis Vuitton Tambour or Moser Streamliner, the Tonda PF is more affordable than the Royal Oak or a Nautilus (which are mostly unobtaina...
Worn & Wound
This year at Watches & Wonders, Oris finds itself focusing primarily on a single collection: the Aquis. For years, the Aquis has carried the torch as the brand’s flagship modern sports watch. A capable diver with an integrated bracelet (it had one before they were cool), the Aquis has been made in a dizzying variety of case sizes and dial variants over the years, with complicated models, limited editions, and even diamonds finding their way to the line. But over all that time, the Aquis itself has never really had a proper reset. That changes this year, with a new, more refined Aquis Date that seeks to improve on the old version in all the ways watch collectors care about. The new Aquis is made of a number of subtle changes that add up to a noticeable, if incremental, improvement. This is not a radical rethinking of the Aquis, but feels more like an admission from Oris that certain elements of the tried and true design could be tweaked for a better overall experience. It’s an approach, frankly, that we think more brands should take. When something is generally pretty good, it makes no sense to kill it and start from scratch. Success over a long period means little iterative changes that make your product better as performance expectations shift, and Oris seems to embrace that. Of the changes made to the new Aquis, the most important is likely the small tweaks to the case. Oris has redefined the Aquis silhouette by making everything a little more balanced, with lugs t...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne is marking 25 years of its landmark chronograph of 1999 with the Datograph Up/Down “25th Anniversary”, a limited edition that’s a subtle but significant variation of the familiar model. The anniversary Datograph sports a dark blue dial matched with a white gold case that contains the much loved L951.6 movement. Limited to 125 pieces, the new model joins the regular production versions in platinum and pink gold (both with black dials) that remain in the catalogue. And it’s the more affordable of the anniversary editions, with the flagship being the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Initial thoughts While the anniversary Datograph doesn’t seem like much on the face of it, the colour and material is fairly unique for the model. The Datograph has only ever been offered in platinum, pink or yellow gold, and never before with a blue dial (except on one occasion). Though left unstated in the official announcement, the blue dial is clearly a reference to a unique example of the first-generation Datograph that had a blue dial, something that fans of the brand will appreciate. Moreover, the Datograph is rarely iterated as a limited edition. This is only the third Datograph limited edition (following the Datograph Lumen of 2019), leaving aside gem-set models. Consequently, there’s a lot to like about this, with a big caveat. As comparably-priced alternative to the regular production models, this is a compelling proposition. However, ...
Fratello
The introduction of the Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter celebrates the 25th anniversary of the first nonstop balloon flight around the world. It does so with a smoky orange dial and a piece of the history-making balloon on the case back. But more importantly, it’s a completely new watch. The 2013-introduced Aerospace Evo now has a […] Visit A Swift Hands-On With The New Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter to read the full article.
Monochrome
This new creation by H. Moser & Cie. is the brand’s second venture into the skeleton watch category, following the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton introduced in 2022. Notably, a tourbillon watch joined the Streamliner collection the same year, presented in full red gold attire with a Vantablack-coated dial. In 2024, a Tourbillon Skeleton is added […]
Deployant
The Angelus Instrument de Vitesse represents a fascinating blend of vintage inspiration and modern horology. Its design pays homage to the brand's storied past while embracing contemporary aesthetics and functionality. The dial looks like a regular 3 hands timepiece but is actually a 60 seconds monopusher with a nicely finished column wheel horizontal clutch movement.
Monochrome
The H. Moser & Cie. Concept series, distinguished by the sheer elegance of minimalistic yet very elaborately finished dials, expands to include a watch in a sporty Pioneer case. The result is beautifully controversial, perhaps as intended by the brand, for the athletic, almost brutal, and adventure-ready case gets paired with a very funky-coloured dial. […]
SJX Watches
In production for decades and one of Seiko’s most affordable mechanical watches, the SNX series has been updated and refined to create the Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series. According to Seiko, the SNXS was inspired by “EDC”, short for “everyday carry”, a catchall phrase for useful items that can be carried on your person. Consequently, the SNXS is concise, practical, and very accessible. Available in three distinct dial variants, black, blue, and ivory, the SNXS features a clean dial made more interesting with an orange seconds hand, patina lume, and a contrast-colour flange. The case is an evolution of the historical SNX design and matched with a steel bracelet. And like most Seiko 5 models, the SNXS has an automatic movement with a day-date function. Initial Thoughts It is safe to say that Seiko has a dominant position in the sub-US$500 segment, with the Seiko 5 leading the way. They are robust and reliable, so much so Seiko is something of the gateway drug to the world mechanical watches. Although simple in execution, the fit and finish of Seiko 5 in general is impressive for the price point. The Seiko 5 is available in a myriad of flavours, from the Seiko 5 Sports Bruce Lee Edition to the Seiko 5 Sports Street Fighter V. The SNXS Series, however, adopts a different spirit with its low key and vintage-inspired aesthetic. The design is simple but detailed nicely with contrast finishing on the case surfaces. It does without a sport bezel, though the baton hands and ...
Quill & Pad
Arnold & Son likes to walk to its own beat. For their latest watch, the Longitude, the opposite is the case. It's a sports watch with an integrated bracelet, and yes, it even comes with a green dial.
Time+Tide
Doxa finally release a small wrist-friendly model of their iconic diver, with a brand new dial colour to boot.The post The SUB 200T is classic Doxa flavour in a smaller and more affordable package appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A bestselling franchise launched two years ago, S.U.F. Helsinki’s latest Moomin edition is the Moomin Diver. Based on the brand’s Vetehinen diver, the Moomin diver features an illustration from Moomin and the Comet that depicts the titular character diving. As with past Moomin editions, the diver features a laser-engraved and hand finished dial with lots of Super-Luminova. Initial thoughts The Moomin watches by S.U.F., the affordable sub-brand of Sarpaneva, are fun value propositions that offer a good quality of dial and case work for the price. This is typical of S.U.F. as well as Sarpaneva in their respective price segments. Priced similarly to the very first model at €5,550, the latest edition continues that while introducing a new dial motif. This is a timely change since the original dial design had already been repeated several times, including on the pricier, full-fledged Sarpaneva version. While the latest edition doesn’t have the same level of detail on the dial – it’s mostly engraved as opposed to being substantially open worked – it brings a new look with the dive watch aesthetic. Though the Moomin editions have been repeated several times, perhaps too often, this is an appealing new launch considering the price-performance ratio and relatively small edition size of 52 watches across two dial types. Diving-themed diver’s watch The new diver features a steel dial that reproduces a drawing from Moomin and the Comet, one of the many Moomin books pen...
SJX Watches
As a sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, the “restomod” outfit specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined naturally got its start with auto-racing inspired chronographs, namely the Track 1. Now the brand has pivoted and debuted its first diving watch, the Divetrack Chronograph. Decidedly oversized – the diameter is 49 mm – the Divetrack has the aesthetics of a dive timer, but also the functionality thanks to a clever case and dial construction. And like the Track 1, the Divetrack is powered by the smart AgenGraphe movement that consolidates all of the chronograph indicators onto the central axis. Initial thoughts Oversized dive watches are cool. Watch nerds appreciate them for the technology, design, and function even if no one really uses them for the intended purpose. This applies to the Seiko Tuna, Rolex Deepsea Challenge, and now the Divetrack. At 49 mm in diameter and almost 20 mm high, the Divetrack is unabashedly oversized. It has an appealing instrument-like design along with a clever decompression scale on the dial. And the Agenhor movement inside ranks amongst the most inventive chronograph movements on the market. But the Divetrack is priced at CHF85,000, which is surprisingly high. In comparison, the Track 1 in titanium or aluminium costs about CHF50,000. The number is difficult to justify regardless of how you slice it. Although the movement has been modified for a 24-hour counter, the modification isn’t a major one. Still, the small edition ...
Fratello
It’s been almost a year since Tudor released the Black Bay GMT with the opaline white dial. Strangely enough, we never did a hands-on review of the watch. While it essentially was a line extension of the Black Bay GMT, the dial brings a certain praiseworthy attraction. The brand’s second GMT is the Black Bay […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline And The Tudor Black Bay Pro to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
As the FlyingT is an MB&F; it does things differently. This starts with its stacked movement. A significant part of the gear train is placed on top of each other and topped off with a flying tourbillon. But it's that black dial that makes it absolutely stunning!
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