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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Introducing: A New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Limited Edition - Let’s Call This Nautical Chrono “Seafarer II” Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Limited Edition Jul 14, 2025

Introducing: A New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Limited Edition - Let’s Call This Nautical Chrono “Seafarer II”

The colorful 1950s are back in the shape of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Limited Edition “Seafarer II.” With its deep blue dial, fresh turquoise accents on the minute counter, and lively yellow touches, it refreshingly presents itself with an unmistakable nautical touch. This novelty harks back to a 1950s Heuer chronograph, the Seafarer tide-indication […] Visit Introducing: A New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Limited Edition - Let’s Call This Nautical Chrono “Seafarer II” to read the full article.

Hands On: Piaget Andy Warhol SJX Watches
Piaget Andy Warhol Having first Jul 14, 2025

Hands On: Piaget Andy Warhol

Having first introduced its Beta 21-inspired wristwatch over a decade ago, Piaget rebooted the concept this year by renaming it the Piaget Andy Warhol thanks to a freshly inked agreement with the American artist’s foundation. The watch retains the same oversized style format defined by a many stepped bezel and clean dial, but now adds the option of customisation in both dial and case materials. Though pricey for a time only watch, the Andy Warhol is arguably Piaget’s best formal dress watch for men. It’s just as elegant as the brand’s round watches, but substantially more distinctive. And the Andy Warhol nickname makes it more memorable than it was before. Initial thoughts Piaget’s most significant recent watch in technical terms is unquestionable the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, but ironically it is somewhat too thin to be elegant. The wafer-slim case feels a little strange on the wrist. The Andy Warhol, on the other hand, is large, but elegant and especially glamorous in certain variations like the malachite dial. In fact, the case is oversized – the case is 45 mm wide – but very thin around 8 mm, giving it a sleek profile but large presence on the wrist. And up close the multiple steps on the bezel give the design surprising flair given its overall simplicity. The large cushion form easily passes for a 1970s watch, but this is not an exact remake. Instead it is loosely based on the Piaget Beta 21, a pioneering quartz wristwatch, a specimen of which was owne...

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock Fratello
Grand Seiko Jul 14, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock

Yes, I know this series is supposed to be about watches for summer, but is there such a thing as a typical summer watch? I think I’ll go against the grain and refer to my picks as “holiday watches” instead, as preparing for a vacation is when I carefully select the watch (or watches) I […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tissot PRX Quartz Vs. Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz Fratello
Tissot PRX Quartz Vs Tissot Jul 13, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tissot PRX Quartz Vs. Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz

Last week, we organized a sophisticated confrontation between two platinum dress watches. This week, we decided to keep it a little more low-key. Recently, Tissot introduced its new PRC 100 Solar Quartz with the state-of-the-art Lightmaster technology integrated into the watch’s crystal. The demand for this new watch is already higher than the supply, so […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tissot PRX Quartz Vs. Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz to read the full article.

Taking A Look At Bravo Watchware’s Original Gradient Watch Box Fratello
Jul 12, 2025

Taking A Look At Bravo Watchware’s Original Gradient Watch Box

I have been on the hunt for a decent zip-up leather watch case for what feels like forever. It couldn’t be just any case, though. I wanted something that didn’t out itself as a budget-friendly compromise but also didn’t cost as much as a watch itself. It had to be practical, hold a decent number […] Visit Taking A Look At Bravo Watchware’s Original Gradient Watch Box to read the full article.

Mechanical vs. Automatic Watch Movements Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 12, 2025

Mechanical vs. Automatic Watch Movements Explained

Among the many questions a novice watch enthusiast is faced with, “Mechanical vs. Automatic Movement?” is one of the most basic, yet one whose answer is a bit more complex than a simple A-or-B explanation. In fact, “mechanical or automatic” isn’t even really framing the choice correctly. In the article below, we attempt to clarify the subject and answer the most pressing questions about these tiny engines inside your watch. What is a Mechanical Movement? A mechanical movement, like the Nomos DUW caliber below, uses a coiled metal spring, called a mainspring, that releases energy as it uncoils through a series of gears to drive a weighted, oscillating wheel called a balance wheel. The balance wheel’s oscillations are linked to an escapement, which periodically releases the gear train to move the hands forward to record the passing of hours, minutes, and seconds. In short, a mechanical movement in a watch is any type of movement that uses no batteries or electronic components to function - which makes them different from more modern inventions, like quartz, Spring Drive, and solar movements. Technical developments over the centuries are what led to the two types of mechanical movements we’re discussing here. Originally, the movement’s mainspring needed to be wound periodically by hand - first by a key, then by a small knob called a crown that was attached via a stem to the movement. Later, a type of movement was developed that could be wound “automatica...

Are You Into Watches Or Watchmaking? Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Chairman Jul 12, 2025

Are You Into Watches Or Watchmaking?

On June 26th, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) celebrated its 20th anniversary in Geneva. The non-profit organization started the celebrations with a press conference at the lakeside Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Geneva. To honor the FHH’s founding members, Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta, Girard-Perregaux Chairman and CEO Patrick Pruniaux, and Cartier Chairman of Culture […] Visit Are You Into Watches Or Watchmaking? to read the full article.

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Nacho’s Favorites From Citizen, Doxa, And Baltic Fratello
Citizen Doxa Jul 12, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Nacho’s Favorites From Citizen, Doxa, And Baltic

The days are long, sleeves are short, and it’s a scorcher out there! So grab your favorite watch, apply a generous layer of sunscreen, and make the most of this sunniest of seasons. As is the tradition of Fratello, the members of the editorial team have been tasked with putting together a list of their […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Nacho’s Favorites From Citizen, Doxa, And Baltic to read the full article.

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part I SJX Watches
Casio n Jul 11, 2025

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part I

The invention of the hairspring was among the greatest breakthroughs in horology, since its inception suddenly made mechanical timepieces portable, transforming clocks into watches. This not only marked the start of precision timekeeping, but also set mankind upon the long road to perfecting the accuracy of mechanical watches, arguably the most sophisticated pieces of kit on Earth at the time, when such precision was paramount for fields as varied as navigation, warfare, and astronomy. The hairspring turned 350 years old in 2025 and we’re marking the occasion with a series of stories on the topic, including the story of the spiral hairspring and also the importance and evolution of the overcoil. Now we turn to temperature compensation and metallurgy in a two-part story covering the evolution of the hairspring materials up until metal alloys. More exotic materials and inventions will follow in Part II. Elasticity and thermal expandability  One of the fundamental factors in hairspring function is ambient temperature, simply because metal alloys expand or contract uni-directionally with a change in temperature. As a result, watchmakers used calorimetry, the science of temperature effects, and material science, specifically metal alloys, to their gain in advancing hairspring technology. The equation below shows the relation between the initial length of a metal strip L0, measured at a given temperature and the final length LT after a certain change in temperature.  The equ...

Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials Fratello
Grand Seiko draws inspiration from local Jul 11, 2025

Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials

Orient Star made its big comeback to Europe a few years ago. Since then, the brand’s M Collections have been taking center stage. While Grand Seiko draws inspiration from local nature, sometimes just outside its studio in Shizukuishi, Iwate Prefecture, Orient Star finds inspiration further afield. Much further indeed, as Orient Star bases its dials […] Visit Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials to read the full article.

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Review Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Jul 10, 2025

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Review

Is there a contemporary field watch as beloved and versatile as the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical? At this point the illustrious military history of the Khaki Field watch has been thoroughly explored (and if you’re not familiar with it, our resident historian Mark Bernardo has written an encyclopedic guide here). In short, Hamilton produced over a million watches for the United States military during World War II with its field watch in specific garnering praise for its universally consistent quality. This predecessor to the Khaki Field was a 34mm-wide field watch done in a chrome-plated metal case with radium lume dials and a manual-wind Caliber 987 movement. The modern Hamilton Watch Company was bought by the Swatch Group in 1974 with much of the production already having moved to Switzerland in 1969. The brand’s reassertion as a bonafide, authentic maker of military tool watches with historical provenance proliferated as an entire collection under the “Khaki” umbrella. While it was still producing watches for actual military units in the 1980s and ‘90s, Hamilton had done well by marketing to civilians once again in the wake of the Vietnam War. These early post-war civilian Hamilton Khaki watches were co-branded with retailers like Brookstone, Orvis, and L.L. Bean. This was also the time during which the “Khaki” logo began popping up on their dials. In 2018, Hamilton released the Khaki Field Mechanical which has gone on to be one of the most popular and b...

Vacheron Constantin 222 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Jul 10, 2025

Vacheron Constantin 222 Review

The Vacheron Constantin 222 reissue first came out at Watches & Wonders 2022 and it was, quite literally and without hyperbole, the single most talked about watch at the show that year. The revival was a solid gold, integrated-bracelet sports watch that went from a somewhat obscure cult classic to a breakout, mainstream status watch seen on Brad Pitt, Michael B. Jordan, and Chris Paul. Once the initial excitement subsided and everyone got their wrist shots to post on Instagram, the obvious next question posed by industry insiders was, “when do we see a steel model revival?” Well, that question got answered late last year with the release of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Ref. 4200H/222A-B934, a watch that benefits from contemporary watchmaking techniques while looking like it could be straight out of the ‘70s. Done in a stainless steel case and bracelet with a subtle matte blue dial, this new 222 revival became one of the most lust-worthy releases of 2025 shorty after its arrival, less than two weeks into January. For a little history and background, the 222 was released in 1977 and is something of a precursor to the Overseas. I’ve heard a few people incorrectly attribute the 222 to Gérald Genta but it was actually the work of fellow prolific designer Jörg Hysek. The 222 came on the heels of the Royal Oak (1971) and Nautilus (1976) and the 1977 launch coincided with the brand’s 222th anniversary, hence the name. Like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, the  2...

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Daan’s Choices From Longines, Girard-Perregaux, And Ressence Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Jul 10, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Daan’s Choices From Longines, Girard-Perregaux, And Ressence

The Sun is shining, temperatures are rising, and my kids are finishing their classes. At last, our summer vacation is just around the corner. It’s time to go through the watch box and pick my watches for a road trip through France and Spain. I’ll probably end up with the Rolex Explorer 114270 as my […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Daan’s Choices From Longines, Girard-Perregaux, And Ressence to read the full article.

Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Review Teddy Baldassarre
Doxa Jul 9, 2025

Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Review

The Doxa name is certainly among the superstars of the classic dive-watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional, as well as the black-dialed Sharkhunter version, as worn by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. But Doxa’s diving history predates the 1967 introduction of the 300, and today we’re looking at a watch that harks back to those earlier models, specifically those with twisted-lug cases that preceded the tonneau-shaped Sub 300 we associate most with the brand. This is the Doxa Sub 200, specifically the Sharkhunter variant, and it’s a fantastic-looking callback to the early ‘60s.  Best of all, it represents the entry point into the modern Doxa lineup at just a shade above $1,000 retail, and if you’re not a fan of black dials, the brand known for its colorful divers has seven other colorways to choose from. But today, we’re going to take a closer look at the 200 that most closely resembles its vintage inspiration, the black-dialed Sharkhunter model. In its most basic black form, the dial is a slice of midcentury perfection. This is the watch Mad Men's Don Draper would wear on a weekend getaway to Palm Springs. Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Case:  You'd be forgiven if you thought the case of the Sub 200 was influenced by a vintage Omega Seamaster 300, but it turns out that the look of the case is a direct callback to Doxa's history. The lyre-lugged design is a direct descendant of the vintage...

While My Watch Gently Resonates: How Armin Strom Perfected Resonance Technology Fratello
Armin Strom Perfected Resonance Technology As Jul 8, 2025

While My Watch Gently Resonates: How Armin Strom Perfected Resonance Technology

As watch fans, we’re relatively accustomed to hearing about technical innovations. Normally, these result in benefits in timekeeping accuracy, power reserve, or shock resistance. However, many of these watches use traditional mechanical movements. Armin Strom’s claim to fame is its mastery of the Resonance movement. Today, we’ll provide an overview of the technology behind these […] Visit While My Watch Gently Resonates: How Armin Strom Perfected Resonance Technology to read the full article.