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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Citizen Tsuyosa Review Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Jul 8, 2025

Citizen Tsuyosa Review

The Citizen Tsuyosa debuted back in 2022 as an integrated bracelet watch with a mechanical movement that was truly affordable with a price under $500. While the Tsuyosa collection was initially a little difficult to get in the US, Citizen started to ship these watches to the States a few months after the initial release. Since then it’s been a popular enough watch although I do think it has eluded the runaway cult classic success of something like the Tissot PRX for reasons that could have to do with marketing as well as a more subdued design that is more dress watch than a retro-inspired sports watch. There have been a couple of iterations of the Tsuyosa since it was released including a slightly more premium central seconds model and a smaller 37mm iteration released earlier in 2025. I will address both of these at the end of the article with a breakdown of what’s different, better, and worse from the standard 40mm reviewed here. The Citizen Tsuyosa finds some inspiration from the old NH299 series which was popular in the late ‘90s and early 2000s. The one design touch that separates the Tsuyosa from a lot of its competitors was also borrowed from the NH299: the small off-center crown seen at 4 o’clock. As a brief aside, I know some people cannot stand a crown at 4 o’clock due to symmetry but I would argue a large protruding crown at 3 o’clock creates far more asymmetry than one sitting so flushly at 4 o’clock. So, let’s get into the Citizen Tsuyosa and w...

Is It Time For A New Omega Speedmaster? What About A New Mini-Moonwatch? Fratello
Omega Speedmaster? What About Jul 8, 2025

Is It Time For A New Omega Speedmaster? What About A New Mini-Moonwatch?

Last year, Omega treated us (Speedmaster enthusiasts and collectors) to a generous selection of new models. The brand introduced the white-dial Speedmaster Professional, a new Speedmaster FOiS, two bicolor Moonwatch variations, and the Speedmaster Pilot. And let’s not forget about the first introduction in 2024, the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 update. […] Visit Is It Time For A New Omega Speedmaster? What About A New Mini-Moonwatch? to read the full article.

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Lex’s Choices From Laventure, Certina, And Swatch Fratello
Certina Jul 8, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Lex’s Choices From Laventure, Certina, And Swatch

You can’t put a price on fun, but the best fun is often had during a vacation, and you can put a price on one of those. You can go camping in a two-person tent on the cheap or spend your downtime in a private villa with butler service on a tropical island for a […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Lex’s Choices From Laventure, Certina, And Swatch to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Urban Jürgensen’s Revival, Breguet’s Birthday, and Spring Auctions SJX Watches
Breguet s Birthday Jul 8, 2025

SJX Podcast: Urban Jürgensen’s Revival, Breguet’s Birthday, and Spring Auctions

SJX and Brandon Moore kick off episode seven of the SJX Podcast with the relaunch of Urban Jürgensen (which includes a tribute to Derek Pratt’s Oval pocket watch), discussing why this time might be different. Also on the docket is a recap of the spring auction season, which included strong prices for hot names in independent watchmaking, though other “indies” waned, surprising showings from hitherto esoteric clocks and pocket watches, and some value buys with out-of-vogue timepieces. Lastly, we recap Breguet’s 250th anniversary launches so far, which have met with a mixed reception, but demonstrate signs of life for a historic brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Jul 7, 2025

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon

The signature complication of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking, the Spin Time is a jump hours with a twist that is now 16 years now. Earlier this year, the complication was given a major technical and aesthetic update with an all-new collection, the Tambour Taiko Spin Time, featuring a new case and a new movement family – both developed and produced in-house. The flagship model is the Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon that combines the jumping hours with a central flying tourbillon – a logical use of the peripheral arrangement of the time display. Though the most complicated (and expensive) of the line, the Flying Tourbillon has all of the key elements of the Tambour Taiko, including the redesigned case and a new movement made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Louis Vuitton’s Geneva watch manufacture. Initial thoughts Whether or not you like the watches themselves, the Tambour Taiko Spin Time collection is a statement of intent by Louis Vuitton. The brand has made substantial investment in vertical integration and manufacturing, essentially watchmaking, and the Tambour Taiko line-up is proof of that. More specifically, the family of movements that underpins the Tambour Taiko illustrates the industrial-haute horlogerie capability that Louis Vuitton has developed in a relatively short period of time, the very sort of competence required to build a high-end watch brand at scale. The movements in the Tambour Taiko collection now number three, but are all part of the s...

Hands-On With Three New And Improved Nezumi Aviera GMT Models Fratello
Jul 7, 2025

Hands-On With Three New And Improved Nezumi Aviera GMT Models

I was all ears when news broke that Stockholm-based brand Nezumi would be releasing optimized versions of its Aviera GMT. About a year ago, I had the chance to go hands-on with the second generation of the popular Swedish brand’s travel watch and thoroughly enjoyed that. Back then, I reviewed the Aviera GMT as part […] Visit Hands-On With Three New And Improved Nezumi Aviera GMT Models to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P It’s Sunday Jul 6, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a cup of coffee and a new installment of our Sunday Morning Showdown series. We’ve selected two platinum dress watches introduced during Watches and Wonders 2025 for this week’s battle. Mike’s pick is the brilliant Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P. The widely praised return of the classic Calatrava was […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Nothing Headphone (1), “Jaws” in IMAX and Yeti Food Storage Worn & Wound
Jul 5, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Nothing Headphone (1), “Jaws” in IMAX and Yeti Food Storage

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. NOTHING Releases Their Headphone (1) NOTHING, the London based technology producer known for their distinct styling, has partnered with KEF to release the Headphone (1).  Featuring custom 40mm drivers, 80 hours of playback and real-time active noise cancellation, the Headphone (1) contains the technological specifications you’ll likely want, along with a very stand out design. In a recent Youtube review, Marques Brownlee (also known as MKBHD) describes it as “…cassette tapes glued to the side of your head…” and we have to agree. Despite their polarizing appearance, Marques goes on to note that these headphones feature several tactile buttons allowing users to easily adjust settings, in contrast to many other options that use touch gestures for volume control, pairing, and other controls. Full details on the Headphone (1) can be found on NOTHING’s website, or you can check out Marques’ review here. Experience Spielberg’s Iconic Jaws in IMAX Originally released in the summer of 1975, Steven Spielberg’s iconic film Jaws will make its way back to the big-screen in celebration of its 50th anniversary. During it’s debut in ‘75, the film attracted over ...

Editorial: Why American Watchmaking is More Exciting Now than it Has Been in Years Worn & Wound
Rado Watch Company Jul 4, 2025

Editorial: Why American Watchmaking is More Exciting Now than it Has Been in Years

American watchmaking is having a moment. And if there’s any day that’s worth celebrating, it’s the Fourth of July. Happy birthday, America, hope you like Damaskeening! Just in the last month or so, we’ve seen a new release from J.N. Shapiro that could point to an entirely new and more accessible concept for the brand. Cornell Watch Co. revealed their new Lozier, with a case, dial, crown, and handset machined in the United States. Colorado Watch Company, the Fort Collins, CO based brand making cases and dials in-house with movements assembled in the United States, just shipped their first batches of new watches to customers after extensive prototyping. And Keaton Myrick, who makes watches completely by hand in vanishingly small runs in Oregon and somehow has flown under the worldwide watch community’s radar for years, just saw a fantastic result in a public sale via Phillips that went for just over the high estimate. And it’s not just that there’s a lot of activity. The watches mentioned above are all, actually, very very good, and show that American watchmakers and brands can succeed in multiple ways, using different models. Myrick and Shapiro operate at the very highest end of the spectrum, while Colorado Watch Company has the ethos of a microbrand (the project was funded via Kickstarter, just like their sister brand, Vortic). The Cornell model, though, is probably the most interesting to me. The majority of the watch is manufactured in the United States, bu...

Watch Collector’s Week 2025 at Isetan Shinjuku in Tokyo SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Image Jul 4, 2025

Watch Collector’s Week 2025 at Isetan Shinjuku in Tokyo

Perhaps the most storied department store in Japan – and still one of the highest grossing in the entire world – Isetan Shinjuku is staging its annual Watch Collector’s Week from July 2-22, 2025. Being in Japan, where everything is pursued in a serious minded manner, the theme of the event is “Astronomy and Timekeeping”. And in typical Japanese fashion, the event also has an accompanying manga, or Japanese comic book. The event encompasses both watches on show as well as historical displays and talks. Participating brands range from establishment names like A. Lange & Söhne and Tudor to independent watchmakers including H. Moser & Cie. and Ressence. Several brands will debut Isetan-exclusive limited editions, including Grand Seiko and Kudoke. The Christiaan van der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric. Image – Shellman One of the highlights of the event is the exhibit of Shellman, the Tokyo-based independent watch retailer that has concessions in Isetan Shinjuku and other prestigious department stores. Shellman’s display is centred on Christiaan van der Klaauw, the longtime specialist in astronomical watches, as well as Hermle, the German clockmaker that produces various clocks with astronomical displays. A astrolabe on display. Image – Shellman Watch Collector’s Week takes place July 2-22, 2025, at Isetan Shinjuku. Isetan Shinjuku 3-14-1 Shinjuku Shinjuku-ku Tokyo, Japan  

Inside Akrivia’s Enamel Workshop in Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe consider enamel Jul 4, 2025

Inside Akrivia’s Enamel Workshop in Geneva

The world of Swiss watchmaking is a small one; everyone seems to know everyone. This is especially true among the exclusive ranks of enamellers. In total, there are about 120 practicing enamellers in Switzerland, largely concentrated in Geneva, which has been a leading hub for fine enamelling for more the 400 years. Of these, four artisans have recently taken up residence at Émailleurs de la Cité (EC) in Geneva’s Old Town. A newly established enamel workshop founded by Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia and Florent Olivier Martin, EC crafts a small number of grand feu enamel dials annually for Mr Rexhepi’s own watches and for select clients like Biver. Though recently opened, the workshop has the feel of a mature and highly organised operation, benefiting from the obvious experience of the staff – Mr Martin was formerly the production director at the respected dial specialist Olivier Vaucher – and the attention to detail for which Mr Rexhepi is known. The enamel workshop is a fitting addition to his growing empire, and is conveniently located just steps away from Akrivia’s watchmaking atelier on Grand-Rue, the picturesque cobblestone thoroughfare that runs through the Old Town. The hand-engraved gratté pattern is applied personally by Mr Rexhepi. The art of enamel Brands like Patek Philippe consider enamel a “rare handcraft”, and for good reason. While industrial groups like the Swatch Group seem to have largely mastered the production of quality enamel dials at (v...