Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Is Releasing Three New Speedtimer Chronograph Versions
Introducing the new Seiko Speedtimer references SSC911, SSC913, and SSC915 set to release in November 2022. Full photos, specs, and more.
Results for The 1985 Swatch Consolidation
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
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Exhibition: IWC ‘Monochromatic Top Gun’ in Singapore
Twenty-twenty two has been all about the Pilot’s Watch for IWC, but with a particular focus on materials, including coloured ceramics and titanium. All that materials tech, watchmaking, and military provenance is now on show in Singapore with Monochromatic Top Gun. Taking place from October 22-30, 2022, the exhibition showcases the brand’s aviator’s watches – including rarely-seen watches made for actual military pilots – along with its watchmaking knowhow in a series of classes and talks. The centrepiece of the exhibition is the all-ceramic line of Pilot’s Watches named after the US Navy’s fight jet academy, Top Gun. Historically available only in black, the Top Gun collection has more recently become a platform for IWC to roll out a range of coloured ceramics. Naturally the show includes the year’s new launches, namely the Top Gun chronographs in forest green or white ceramic. Earlier models such as the Miramar with its sand-coloured ceramic case are also on show, along with the quintessential all-black version. Notably, the exhibition also includes 15 military-issue watches, each bearing a unit insignia on the dial, in perhaps its most intriguing section. Rarely seen since they are only available to members of the individual air force and navy units, such watches reflect the fact that the Schaffhausen watchmaker is the sole official supplier of watches to the US Navy and Marine Corps. As a result, IWC has created watches for some 350 squadrons, includin...
Hodinkee
Four + One: How A Fashion Podcaster Who 'Thinks About Watches Too Much' Built His Collection
"I don't have a ton of heat,“ says Jeremy Kirkland of Blamo. “But I have things that are special to me – and I've found my own niche in the watch world."
Time+Tide
Cheap and cheerful – 5 affordable summer watches
I’m certain that I’m not only speaking for myself when I say that many are looking forward to putting the bleak days of Melbourne winter behind. While this also means a goodbye to winter layering in favour of linen and seersucker, it’s also a hello to funky, bright watches. I could easily put together a … ContinuedThe post Cheap and cheerful – 5 affordable summer watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Bell & Ross Expands Its GMT Lineup With A Crispy White Dial
The BR 05 GMT goes polar.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Cartier Rolls Out A New Pebble (Live Pics)
The new limited edition gives 150 lucky collectors a chance to own an iconic design.
SJX Watches
In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003
Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual is Now Left Handed
The combination of split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar has been a mainstay in Patek Philippe’s catalogue ever since the ref. 5004, but the brand’s latest take on the concept is unorthodox. The Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5373P-001 is described by Patek Philippe as designed for “left handers” and has its crown and pushers on the left side of the case. Essentially an inverted version of the ref. 5372P that’s now discontinued, the ref. 5373P is the first “destro” timepiece among the brand’s regular production offerings, but the movement is classic Patek Philippe. Like the earlier versions of the model, the ref. 5373P is powered by the CHR 27-525 PS Q, a gorgeous, refined, and extremely slim movement that’s amongst the thinnest split-seconds chronographs ever made. Initial thoughts The ref. 5373P is paradoxical. It’s not majorly different from its predecessor, in fact it’s just a rotated case and new dial, but the watch looks and feels entirely different from the ref. 5372P. The left-handed case sets it apart, as does the high-contrast livery. The black-and-red colour scheme seems mismatched to the elegant form of the watch – the case and movement are both impressively slim – but I can imagine this will have a strong appeal for someone seeking something different yet fundamentally classic Patek Philippe high horology. This clearly stands out in the catalogue, offering an alternative that is recognisably di...
Time+Tide
Tissot’s new Telemeter 1938 brings vintage style to a thoroughly modern chronograph
Swiss watchmaker Tissot has been the name on everyone’s lips recently since the release of their category-disrupting integrated bracelet juggernaut, the ’70s-tastic PRX. But the brand’s horological history does, of course, go back more than 150 years, all the way to 1853. A page from their rich back catalogue serves as inspiration for their elegant … ContinuedThe post Tissot’s new Telemeter 1938 brings vintage style to a thoroughly modern chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Chantilly Arts & Elegance Richard Mille Classic Car Exhibition Makes A Comeback
Chantilly may be known for its famous whipped cream, lace, and horse racing, but since 2014 this town in northern France, an hour’s drive from Paris, has played host to the most beautiful cars on the planet at Chantilly Arts & Elegance Richard Mille, a car lover’s garden party uniting both classic and contemporary cars.
Time+Tide
Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President
Celebrity watchspotting can be a bit trivial at times – a Royal Oak here, a Richard Mille there. These are snapshots of individuals who have made it and have the means and access to strap any watch to their wrist that they desire. Which is why it is that much more interesting to hear the … ContinuedThe post Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review
The Tissot Telemeter 1938, which joined the Swiss brand's vintage-influenced Heritage collection in summer 2022, has garnered enthusiasts' attention with its charmingly retro design, optimized chronograph movement, and enticing price-to-value ratio. We had a chance to go hands-on with both versions of the Tissot Telemeter 1938; read on for the results from our in-depth review. Overview and History By just about any historical standard, 1938 was generally a pretty dark year, marked by the lingering economic woes of the Great Depression, the violence of Kristallnacht, and the slow march to war in Europe, with Germany annexing Austria and partitioning Czechoslovakia in the ill-fated Munich pact. One of the few areas in which forward-thinking creativity and energetic optimism still prevailed in that pre-war era was the world of art and design, which was still showing the influence of the Art Deco movement that had taken root in the 1920s. Wristwatches, which had largely supplanted pocket watches as the go-to portable timekeepers for both civilian and military use, displayed this enduring design ethos while also often incorporating a useful array of functions geared toward the timing of the era’s popular sporting events, many of which involved racing - on horseback, in automobiles, and on skis. Tissot, founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura, was one of the watchmakers that specialized in making these sport-timing instruments. One of the company’s earliest forays as an offic...
Hodinkee
Auctions: 4 Highlights (And Hieroglyphs?) From Phillips New York's Upcoming December Auction
A Cartier London Crash, Grand Seiko, and a Patek with hieroglyphs headline the winter sale.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Double world champ Max Verstappen on why his TAG Heuer Monaco is his “lucky charm”
Last weekend, Max Verstappen joined the pantheon of multiple world-champ greats. Winning the title once may be a hugely impressive accomplishment, but out of 34 F1 champions, only half have been able to repeat the feat. Though touted as a hot-headed teen upon his entry into the sport, Max has matured into a clinical, calm and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Double world champ Max Verstappen on why his TAG Heuer Monaco is his “lucky charm” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Legends of Independent Watchmaking: Rexhep Rexhepi
Wei speaks one-on-one with Rexhep Rexhepi, a panelist from our Legends of Independent Watchmaking Horological Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2022, to learn about his journey of becoming one of the most celebrated watchmakers in the modern era. It has been 10 years since Rexhep founded AkriviA and in that time he has had to […]
Quill & Pad
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1: A Sensational ‘Apprentice Piece’
Ferdinand Berthoud was known for passing on his knowledge, taking in his first apprentice shortly after he opened his first workshop, which resulted in H.M.8, a fantastically accurate ship's chronometer. The new FB 2RSM.2-1 is the modern spiritual successor to the H.M.8 and it originated with a modern apprentice.
SJX Watches
In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003
The first complicated mechanical watch from the brand in its six decades years of history, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 is an impressive example of high horology. The Kodo is self-explanatory: it is equipped with a highly skeletonised and sensitively finished movement boasting a one-second remontoir and tourbillon, both mounted on the same axis. The Kodo is an interesting watch in all respects, tangible and intangible, making it worth a detailed examination – exactly the focus of this two-part series. In this first instalment, we explain the development and conception of the Kodo, as well as the decoration of its movement. In the second part that will be published subsequently, we detail how the movement works and analyse how it compares to the competition. A surprise Evolved from the T0 concept movement unveiled just two years ago, the Kodo is undoubtedly a milestone – and a major step upwards – for the Japanese watchmaker that’s historically been focused on simple but high-quality everyday watches. Like conventional Grand Seiko (GS) watches, the Kodo is all about high-quality timekeeping, but it is far from simple. An example of a typical Grand Seiko, which is strikingly different from the Kodo, yet not so different in terms of philosophy Well known for its quest for high precision – amongst its earliest timepieces were observatory-tested chronometers – GS has done much research and development in the cutting-edge timekeeping techn...
Time+Tide
Three ways that heritage reissues can differ from real vintage watches
At this rate it seems like we’ll end up with more vintage reissues in the world than actual vintage watches, if that’s not already the case. We started out with homages and vintage-inspired watches, then moved towards the meticulous and accurate recreations, before the current era of watches that look old no matter what vibrant … ContinuedThe post Three ways that heritage reissues can differ from real vintage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer debuts two Formula 1 x Mario Kart Limited Editions that fans will race to shell out for
In a sceptical marketplace, collaborations and partnerships can sometimes be met with hesitancy. Not every tie-in is created equal. Is it a gimmick? A cash-grab? If the through-line is not there, if it does not feel genuine, then the release is often set to tank. But the proof is ultimately in the pudding. Last year, … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer debuts two Formula 1 x Mario Kart Limited Editions that fans will race to shell out for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Getting your Reverso engraved suddenly got a lot sexier with JLC’s new Alex Trochut typeface
Typography can often be one of the deepest psychological art forms, as well as one of the most important. The link between the words we read and the way they’re displayed is vital whether we consciously realise it or not, and it’s the job of a typographer to establish what a typeface communicates beyond the … ContinuedThe post Getting your Reverso engraved suddenly got a lot sexier with JLC’s new Alex Trochut typeface appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1990s IWC Fliegerchronograph In Black Ceramic, A 1967 Rolex Zephyr, And A 1979 Benrus Type I Class A
Black dials galore this week in a tightly curated selection of vintage watches in the H Shop.
Deployant
New: Breguet Reine de Naples 8918
The Reine de Naples 8918 is one of the Maison’s iconic pieces.This novelty introduces two new white gold cased models - with enamel dial and MOP dial.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Exhibitions in Singapore and Hong Kong
Admired for its quality of engineering and finishing, A. Lange & Söhne is bringing Glashütte to Asia with a pair of exhibitions in Singapore and Hong Kong. The events will showcase the brand’s watches – including important historical models no longer in the catalogue like the Zeitwerk Luminous – as well as the brand’s most important complications like the constant-force mechanism. The Mechanical Masters takes place from October 27-30 in Singapore (sign up here), while Devoted to the Highest Standards in Hong Kong happens from October 25-31 in Hong Kong (sign up here). At the Singapore event, Lange’s technical excellence will be personified with live demonstrations of watchmaking, engraving, and other crafts required to complete a watch. The four-day event in Singapore will be fronted by two gentlemen from Glashütte: Robert Hoffmann, the chief watchmaker for the Zeitwerk department, and Robert Arnold, an artisan-engraver who will demonstrate the art of engraving the balance cock. A familiar face for anyone who’s attended past Lange events, Robert Hoffmann Event information Both events are open to the public, however, registration is required to attend. Singapore – The Mechanical Masters – 10:00 am-9:00 pm, October 27-30 ION Orchard 2 Orchard Turn Singapore 238801 Register for the Singapore event Hong Kong – Devoted to the Highest Standards – 10:00 am-7:30 pm, October 25-31 Landmark Atrium 15 Queen’s Road Central Central Hong Kong Regist...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: An Oral History Of Zenith's Team-Up With Kari Voutilainen And Phillips
The complete story behind the unexpected three-team collaboration.
Hodinkee
Announcements: Introducing Hodinkee's 10/10 Event: A Celebration For Our Community
Ten percent off, site-wide. The 10 best videos we've ever published. And, oh yeah, 10 pre-owned Rolex watches at their original retail price.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”
Originally conceived as a pilot’s watch when it was created over a century ago – as one of the first-ever wristwatches in fact – the Santos is not even remotely sporty in the modern sense of the term. Instead the Santos is an elegant watch that is quintessential Cartier. Earlier this year, the Parisian jeweller recently gave its trademark square watch a bold makeover when it debuted the Santos-Dumont Large Model Lacquered Case. Featuring a bezel and case covered in lacquer, the new Santos-Dumont was unexpected and certainly one of the most intriguing iterations of the models to date, yet it easily feels like quintessential Cartier. The steel version with black lacquer Initial thoughts The lacquered Santos-Dumont is an achievement given that the original is so established, perhaps the bestselling square watch in history. Though the case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a lacquered bezel dating from the 1920s, the new Santos-Dumont still feels satisfyingly original. It obviously reimagines a familiar design, one so familiar it might have even become tired, but manages to translates it into something entirely different. A pair of vintage Santos watches from around 1910, both part of the Cartier Collection In fact, the lacquered Santos-Dumont stands apart not only from earlier Santos models but also the competition. While brightly-coloured dials are now common for dress watches, the same cannot be said of the case. As a result, this is one of the most interesti...
Deployant
New Release: IWC’s Mark XX edition
The IWC Mark XX is a highly wearable military timepiece with simplicity and functionality at its core. It has 120 hours power reserve which is significantly more than the average 3 days movement today. You may recall that the designers took their inspiration from the 1930s Junkers Ju 52 cockpit instruments, which have served as the model for classic pilot’s watches. The displays are round, generously sized and clearly arranged. The Arabic figures, big and round, stand proudly in position, with just two exceptions: instead of a “12”, we see a white triangle with a single dot on either side for better legibility, and at “3 o’clock” a date window, as a concession to modernity. The 40mm watch is well sized without being bulky at 10.8mm, uses contrasting dial and displays come very close to the ideal of the classic pilot’s watch. The watch is priced at US$5250 on leather and US$6150 on bracelet.
Time+Tide
Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is certainly among the more recognisable watch designs out there, I’d even venture as far as calling it iconic. I’m sure that most of you are already familiar with its origin story, so I won’t bore you with a history lesson. It should suffice to say that the original 1931 design was … ContinuedThe post Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Porsche parade in Paris with TAG Heuer
Well, I have definitely been racking up some miles of late. Following the launch of the Norqain Wild One in Zermatt, I was scarcely back in New York City before heading off to Paris for the launch of the TAG Heuer x Porsche 911 Carrera R.S. 2.7 Limited Editions in honour of the classic car’s 50th … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Porsche parade in Paris with TAG Heuer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Seiko 5 Sports 55th Anniversary Ultraseven Limited Edition
Seiko 5 celebrates a new collaboration with Ultraseven, marking the 55th Anniversary of its broadcast of the series which later led to the Ultraman series.