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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet Jürgensen Pratt Jun 5, 2025

In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon

Led by Kari Voutilainen and backed by an American collector, Urban Jürgensen has been revived in grand style. The brand’s inaugural watch is undoubtedly one of this year’s most surprising launches, the UJ-1 250th Anniversary Watch. The first of three new models, the UJ-1 is a limited edition that pays tribute to the Oval, a pocket watch created by Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt that is perhaps brand’s greatest timepiece. Having been dormant for a while and a little confused in terms of focus (including jumping on the fad of an integrated bracelet sports watch), the brand is now running full steam ahead and going back to its high horology roots with a trio of models, led by the UJ-1 that lives up to expectations, and then some. Initial thoughts The UJ-1 sets the tone for what is to come from Urban Jürgensen by Kari Voutilainen. Even before turning the watch over and admiring its movement, the execution of the dial hints at the quality within, reflecting the fact that Mr Voutilainen is an undisputed master of guillochage. At first sight the piece shows an engine-turned face that is tastefully restrained. The collective style of Breguet, Jürgensen, Pratt and Voutilainen can be immediately discerned from the dial. While wearing all the marks of traditional engine-turned dials, the proportions, the typeface and the “zero” marker make it look a little updated and almost leaning on the minimalistic.   The subtle change suggests that the brand is truly going into a...

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas Fratello
Rolex Daytonas Rolex only makes Jun 5, 2025

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas

Rolex only makes one chronograph, and it’s called the Daytona. This has been a statement of fact since the first model bearing the name was created in 1963. Okay, fine; there’s one notable exception, the Yacht-Master II. But we’ll leave that as a topic for another day. Today on Fratello Talks, it’s all about our […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas to read the full article.

Breguet’s Latest Type XX is Vintage Inspired and No-Date SJX Watches
Breguet s Latest Type XX Jun 5, 2025

Breguet’s Latest Type XX is Vintage Inspired and No-Date

Following the Classique Souscription, and Tradition Seconde Rétrograde, Breguet continues its 250th anniversary roll-out by turning to its signature pilot’s watch. The Type XX Chronographe 2075BH debuts in two variants in “Breguet gold”: a regular production with a black aluminium dial and a 250-piece limited edition with a sterling silver dial. Both are handsome and stay mostly true to the model’s heritage thanks to faithful sizing and a manually-wound movement. The regular production with a black aluminium dial (left), and sterling silver dial of the limited edition Initial Thoughts The new Type XX ticks many of the boxes from an enthusiast’s perspective with its compact dial and concise dial that does without a date and hour totalizer – both welcome reductions to the first-generation design. That said, the Breguet gold case is limiting due to the price. A stainless steel case would’ve been even more appreciated, though that will probably arrive in due time. While the cal. 7278/7279 in the new Type XX is technically excellent – like most Breguet calibres – the thoroughly modern construction doesn’t complement the vintage-inspired design. Adapting the cal. 582 used in the 1990s Type XX might have been more interesting due to its lateral clutch construction and increasingly rare cam-control system, though the cal. 7278/7279 reads better on a spec sheet with its vertical clutch. And to preserve the vintage feel, a solid, hand-engraved case back might...

J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure SJX Watches
Hamilton shut down Jun 4, 2025

J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure

J.N. Shapiro’s Infinity Series Pure is a new entry point into the American brand. This follows the top-of-the-line Resurgence, the most American-made mechanical wristwatch built since Hamilton shut down in the 1960s. This new model focuses purely on the dial and hands, which are excellent, while trusting Swiss suppliers with ancillary details like the case and caliber. The result is a much more accessible, though less impressive, watch than J.N. Shapiro’s usual fare. Initial Thoughts When the original Infinity line was discontinued in 2023, it left the brand without an entry-level watch, and the company put all of its efforts behind the ambitious Resurgence project. Now that things have settled down, the team once again has the bandwidth to support a second model. The Infinity Series Pure uses an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret (LJP) movement. While a good, slim movement with an extended power reserve, the LJP F200/7380 isn’t particularly premium, and a downgrade from the UWD cal. 33.1 used in previous infinity models. For example, Ralph Lauren uses the LJP movement in its Vintage 67 line priced at around US$3,000. The case is also outsourced, likely to a Swiss manufacturer, through the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a consortium of independent brands that J.N. Shapiro helped found. This focuses all of Shapiro’s attention on the dial and hands, though both are significantly less complex than on the Resurgence. At US$26,000 the Infinity Series Pure is about a ...

Glashütte Original SeaQ Review Teddy Baldassarre
Glashutte Original Jun 4, 2025

Glashütte Original SeaQ Review

The Glashütte Original SeaQ debuted in 2019 alongside the German watchmaker’s then-new “Spezialist” family. The collection has grown to include the SeaQ Panorama Date, the smaller SeaQ 39.5mm, and the SeaQ Chronograph. I believe the SeaQ was the first new dive or sports watch from the brand since the Senator Sport Evolution from 2009. Inspired by the vintage Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969, the SeaQ has gone on to become one of the most lauded luxury dive watches out there. These are true luxury watches, though and they come with matching price tags. Still, the Glashütte Original SeaQ is one of the best options out there for someone with high standards but doesn’t want to join the sea (pun intended) of Submariners and Seamasters out there. There’s a funny quandary that reveals itself when looking at the SeaQ Panorama Date in comparison to the smaller SeaQ with the standard, less sexy date window. You can have the bigger case and the panorama date window or you can have the smaller case without the panorama date window. But, since you can’t have both, I made sure to add a section at the end with a brief comparative rundown of the SeaQ with the smaller 39.5mm case.  Glashütte Original SeaQ Case Let’s start with the SeaQ Panorama which comes in at 43.2mm wide and 15.7mm thick with a 51.4mm lug-to-lug measurement (with 300 m of water resistance). Yes, that’s a big boy and anyone with a smaller (or even the smaller size of medium) wrist is going to have ...

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners as Part of their Partnership with Alpine Motorsports, Including an Ana-Digi Smartwatch Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces Jun 3, 2025

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners as Part of their Partnership with Alpine Motorsports, Including an Ana-Digi Smartwatch

Just when you thought watches associated with F1 teams were getting stale and predictable, here comes H. Moser with a release that I definitely did not have on my bingo card. There are actually two releases here, both introduced last week as part of the brand’s partnership with the Alpine Motorsports F1 team. Both part of the Streamliner family, one is a skeletonized chronograph (which is cool, but not exactly the most exotic thing in the indie watch world) and the other is…a smart watch. Yes, a Streamliner smart watch from the brand that started their recent rise to prominence by, basically, trolling the most popular wearable ever created. The loose concept here is that this pair of watches consists of a “Drivers Edition” Streamliner as well as a corresponding “Mechanics Edition.” We’ll start with the Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition, a “measuring instrument” designed specifically for an F1 team and the highly specialized work they do to support their drivers. The watch does a nice job of evoking what we’ve come to know as the Moser aesthetic, with a blue lacquer dial for the time at 12:00, surrounded by black when the watch is on standby mode (Moser of course loves a deep and dark black). But that black negative space is actually a screen, and when digital functions are activated the watch effectively transforms into something we simply aren’t used to seeing from high end independent brands.  The Mechanics Edition is powered by a movement made ...

I Should Have Bought A Speedmaster As My First Watch Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Jun 3, 2025

I Should Have Bought A Speedmaster As My First Watch

The Omega Speedmaster is a great watch. That’s probably not a controversial statement. But is it a great first Swiss watch for those looking to start their way along the winding path of their horological journey? After some reflection on mine, I’d say it is. Let me explain why. The Omega Speedmaster is an icon. […] Visit I Should Have Bought A Speedmaster As My First Watch to read the full article.

Watch Propaganda I’m Not Falling For Worn & Wound
Jun 2, 2025

Watch Propaganda I’m Not Falling For

If you’ve opened Instagram or TikTok in the last few weeks, there’s a very good chance you’ve seen the “Propaganda I’m Not Falling For” trend served up to you in one way or another. The format is relatively straightforward, and involves a creator listing the sacred cows in his or her particular area of expertise that they refuse to buy into.  The watch community, of course, is filled with conventional wisdom, ideas passed from collector to collector, rarely if ever questioned. As I encountered these social media clips over the last week, I couldn’t help but think of the watch world propaganda, as it were, that we all just seem to take at face value.  Here, then, are four principles I think are ripe for questioning. There are a lot more – credit here to Ben’s Watches and Pulse on the Wrist for being first out of the gate among watch industry personalities to participate. Be sure to let us know in the comments what watch related propaganda you refuse to accept.  A Vintage Watch Must Be Unpolished and All Original  Let’s get the most controversial one out of the way first. When I started collecting watches, it was an era when it was still relatively easy and straightforward to buy a nice, honest vintage watch on eBay for not a lot of money. Times have changed. The best examples, watches that are truly unpolished and all original, are harder and harder to find, and eBay is filled with watches that have been passed around and sold by pro dealers and amat...

Top Luxury Watch Brands: 60 To Know In 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 2, 2025

Top Luxury Watch Brands: 60 To Know In 2026

How well do you know your luxury watch brands? The timepiece industry is populated by many dozens of companies - a handful of them still independent, many others now members of a larger luxury-goods conglomerate - each with its own unique origin story, historical highlights, and technical and aesthetic brand DNA. Here we've gathered what we consider the 60 watch brands that should be on the radar of watch enthusiasts and given you a brief rundown of what makes each one special. In the interest of being informative (and transparent), we've divided them into sections: brands owned by the two major Swiss luxury groups (Swatch and Richemont), brands within the French LVMH Group, Japanese Citizen Group, and the small Swiss concern Sowind; the largest, best-known independent companies, and the leading brands among the rest of the independents. We've even added a little tidbit of trivia for each brand. TOP LUXURY WATCH BRANDS: SWATCH GROUP BLANCPAIN Blancpain was founded in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, making it one of the oldest watch brands in existence - one of the few, in fact, that can say it’s been making watches longer than the United States has been a country. The maison offers a plethora of small and high complications  in its extensive and elegant Villeret collection, named for the Swiss village where it originated before moving to the Vallee de Joux in 1983, including a so-called “complete” calendar, a signature complication but these days Blancpain ...

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary Jun 2, 2025

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary

Although Francois-Paul Journe is best known for his inventions like the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance, not to mention the whole suite of Octa models, the Chronomètre Souverain was also arguably one of his brand’s foundational models. This year F.P. Journe is marking two decades of the watch with the Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, which is essentially the original in new dress – the dial is now dark blue with applied gold numerals. Initial thoughts When the Chronomètre Souverain debuted in 2005 – the same year as the Breguet Tradition that was recently revived – it was novel and exciting; I remember the buzz amongst enthusiasts then. The F.P. Journe brand was barely six years old. The Chronomètre Souverain was then one of the rare few time-only watches from an independent watchmaker, and it had an all-new movement to boot. Today it is less exciting for sure, but the movement remains surprising novel for a basic calibre. As an entry-level watch, the Chronomètre Souverain remains excellent (even if availability is an obstacle). Although the Chronomètre Souverain is the simplest mechanical F.P. Journe watch, the cal. 1304 inside still retains the technical hallmarks of the brand, namely elegant, concise engineering and symmetry. Clever touches include the “invisible” gear train; only the regulator and barrels are visible on the main plate. From its conception, the cal. 1304 was conceived for chronometry. The utility and strength of t...

Highlights: Phillips NYWA XII SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1518 Jun 2, 2025

Highlights: Phillips NYWA XII

As the Hong Kong auctions have wrapped, we move to the final sales of the spring season in New York City. Phillips will offer a healthy mix of new and old, common and rare, across 144 lots. The sale includes many of the expected top-of-the-line offerings, with the headline lot a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in yellow gold, and staples like a pair of ref. 5004s. But there are plenty of interesting watches to be down catalog too, including some fresh faces and value buys. Highlights include the best of English watchmaking made by Charles Frodsham a century apart, the auction debut of American independent Keaton Myrick, an unusual F.P. Journe Résonance, along with a Cartier pocket watch made by complications specialist THA. We round up these and a few more from The New York Watch Auction: XII, which takes place from June 7-8, 2025. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. Lot 11 – A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph “2022 Best of Show, Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este” Since 2012, A. Lange & Söhne has been a sponsor of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, a classic car shown that takes place in spring on the picturesque shores of Lake Como. Each year, the owner of the event’s best car is presented with a unique Lange watch. While past winners have received a fairly conventional Lange 1 Time Zone, the brand upgraded the prize in recent years to a striking 1815 Chronograph. In 2022, the winner was Andrew Pisker with a Bugatti 57 S from 1937. He received th...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 Fratello
Grand Seiko Kiri” SBGW323 Welcome Jun 1, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323

Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we decided to put the Swiss up against the Japanese, each with a purple-dial stainless steel watch of their own. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a lavender dial represents the Swiss, while the Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 represents the Japanese. Both came out during Watches […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 to read the full article.