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HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual Time+Tide
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Nov 8, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual

Collaborative limited editions are nothing new to the industry. It would seem over the last few years we see one debut every month, and the trend is still going strong. But with so many hitting the market, it is more important than ever for all parties involved to realise something that is truly fresh that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Nov 3, 2022

Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic

After rolling out the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in black and then white ceramic – making them the first all-ceramic Royal Oaks – Audemars Piguet put new colours on hiatus, until now. The Le Brassus watchmaker has just unveiled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 26579CS in blue ceramic, making it the first Royal Oak entirely in coloured ceramic (aside from black or white). Initial thoughts Though ceramic has long been a favoured case material at Audemars Piguet (AP), it is typically employed for certain components, usually the bezel, to create two-tone appearance. AP has rarely made entirely watches in ceramic until recently. Even now AP only has eight Royal Oak models entirely in ceramic, out of dozens of references in total. And of the eight, six are black ceramic. So the latest Royal Oak is special just because of the colour. Admittedly, the colour is not unique in watchmaking. And the all-blue aesthetic is certainly polarising. But an all-ceramic Royal Oak is always attractive in terms of look and feel, because the case and bracelet finishing is exemplary. More broadly, the electric blue Royal Oak perhaps captures the zeitgeist of contemporary watch collecting perfectly with its brash colour, unusual materials, and integrated bracelet – it is a watch of the times. It costs CHF129,000, making it more expensive than the equivalents in steel or titanium, but there’s nothing else quite like it, which helps make the price a bit more digestible. High-tech blue ...

Time+Tide book club: Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History Time+Tide
Oct 24, 2022

Time+Tide book club: Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History

For fans of hip-hop and streetwear, there’s a lavish new coffee table book just for you. More than simply documenting flash jewellery, Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History drills down into the cultural significance of bling within streetwear culture. And a big part of that culture is the universe of timepieces that the musical luminaries … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide book club: Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution Time+Tide
Maen Oct 17, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution

The concept of evolution over revolution is more than a catchy phrase, it also shows the dedication that a company has to perfecting a concept. Between the Manhattan, the Skymaster and the Hudson, Maen are a brand of structure and refinement. No detail goes unconsidered, and the result is something both charming and holistic. The … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Masterful Finishing, Extreme Creativity, And Lots Of Moons Quill & Pad
Oct 11, 2022

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Masterful Finishing, Extreme Creativity, And Lots Of Moons

Astronomical complications are poetic in nature, more emotional than practical. Calendar complications are the exact opposite: perfectly practical and useful complications for time management. Since the category doesn’t dictate specifically what should be valued and only outlines what fits into the category, it leaves a lot up to our panel on what we subjectively value more and why in this latest round table of 2022 GPHG nominations.

The Dirty Dozen: History’s Most Legendary Field Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 7, 2022

The Dirty Dozen: History’s Most Legendary Field Watches

When it comes to collectible vintage military watches, there are the famed “Dirty Dozen” and then there is everything else. Twelve field watches from twelve different Swiss watchmakers, all made within the last two years of World War II and issued to British servicemen, the Dirty Dozen watches represent a rare confluence between horological and military history, while also claiming a coveted spot in the annals of war memorabilia. What brands and watches make up the Dirty Dozen, what is their story, and why are they so legendary today? Read on. Wristwatches came into general usage for men during World War I. While pocket watches were still in vogue for social situations, they proved impractical for troops on the battlefield, who needed the use of both hands in combat situations, such as for loading one’s rifle while simultaneously checking his watch to determine the distance of incoming artillery fire. Watchmakers at the time responded to the demands of warfare in a rather makeshift way at first, re-engineering pocket watch cases with soldered strips of wire to connect them to straps of leather or canvas for wrist wear. While these “trench watches” were effective at the time, advances in military equipment, technology, and strategies in subsequent years necessitated a more purposeful approach to watchmaking as a Second World War erupted in Europe, barely two decades after the end of the so-called War to End all Wars. According to some historical accounts, it was ...

5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy Time+Tide
Seiko watches you can still Sep 22, 2022

5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy

The changing resale values of Seiko watches is a mystery to most people, with some models soaring and diving within the space of a year. One thing that does always drive up prices, however, is once a model gets discontinued, as I recently discovered with my own $200 Seiko Sapphire. It doesn’t even matter if … ContinuedThe post 5 discontinued Seiko watches you can still easily buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date you never knew Sep 16, 2022

The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed

Rolex is known for being fairly conservative and calculated these days. Sure, there are a few exceptions like the recent falcon’s eye dial for the Yachtmaster, say, or their colourful expressions with their gem-set watches like the leopard and rainbow Daytona watches. But, more often than not, their novelties involve incremental updates – slight refinements … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Yema Navygraf Forces Sous-Marines is a dive watch brimming with ’70s charm Time+Tide
Yema Sep 8, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Yema Navygraf Forces Sous-Marines is a dive watch brimming with ’70s charm

One of my very first articles for Time+Tide was a short overview on Yema and their key models, and since then their growth has been meteoric. Although they now hardly need any introduction as one of the most popular microbrands, the French brand has mastered their own niche within the dive watch scene. Both then … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Yema Navygraf Forces Sous-Marines is a dive watch brimming with ’70s charm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Dom Toretto joins the Diesel family Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Sep 2, 2022

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Dom Toretto joins the Diesel family

Editor’s Note: When Nicolas Cage recently gushed over his Grand Seiko on the red carpet, many of you in the comments noted how he should become an ambassador for the brand – and we agreed it would definitely be a fun pairing. This then got us thinking what other ambassador match-ups we would want to see. … ContinuedThe post Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Dom Toretto joins the Diesel family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Depth: Ulysse Nardin Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Utterly bizarre Aug 25, 2022

In Depth: Ulysse Nardin Freak S

Utterly bizarre and thoroughly ingenious when it debuted in March 2001, the Freak remains avant-garde even two decades later. But unlike the highly modern creations from brands like De Bethune and Urwerk, the Freak arguably gets less credit than it deserves, simply because Ulysse Nardin isn’t a niche, independent watchmaker. But that takes nothing away from the concept, which has been made more avant-garde than ever. Launched earlier this year, the Freak S is now the flagship model in the Freak line-up. In a first for a Freak, it reimagines the trademark carousel display, which now carries twin inclined balance wheels linked by a differential. Initial thoughts The landmark creation of the modern-day Ulysse Nardin (UN) brand, Freak was and still is interesting because it turns conventional movement construction on its head. Most of the moving parts are mounted onto a carousel on the dial that doubles up as the minute hand, while under the dial sits a massive mainspring that occupies most of the case volume. No other watch combines unorthodox form and function like the Freak even though it was launched in 2001, well before most of today’s best known avant-garde timepieces. That was four years before Urwerk unveiled its satellite-cube hour display, for instance, ensuring the Freak’s place as a pioneering creation. The Freak S (left) and the original Freak from 2001 While the essence of the Freak has been mostly retained over the various iterations since its launch, ...

Is a new official Rolex Supreme watch really incoming? Time+Tide
Rolex Supreme watch really incoming? Aug 24, 2022

Is a new official Rolex Supreme watch really incoming?

The biggest buzzword in the watch world these days is “hype” – and nobody does hype better than New York-based streetwear brand Supreme. While their signature colour is red, everything they touch seems to turn to gold. While their own goods are immensely popular around the world, Supreme has engaged in all sorts of collaborations … ContinuedThe post Is a new official Rolex Supreme watch really incoming? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton changed my perception of openworking Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton changed Aug 23, 2022

How the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton changed my perception of openworking

The human brain is a curious thing. Having written many a review and introducing post, I feel like I’ve become increasingly more selective about the type of watch I really like. While my interests evolved, one constant has been my aloofness towards skeletonisation. Then the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton happened, and completely blew me … ContinuedThe post How the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton changed my perception of openworking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Willem Dafoe and the ever-cheeky Konstantin Chaykin Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Aug 11, 2022

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Willem Dafoe and the ever-cheeky Konstantin Chaykin

Editor’s Note: When Nicolas Cage recently gushed over his Grand Seiko on the red carpet, many of you in the comments noted how he should become an ambassador for the brand – and we agreed it would definitely be a fun pairing. This then got us thinking what other ambassador match-ups we would want to see. … ContinuedThe post Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Willem Dafoe and the ever-cheeky Konstantin Chaykin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph SJX Watches
Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Launched Aug 1, 2022

Hands On: Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph

Launched earlier this year as a follow-up to the time-only PRX, the PRX Automatic Chronograph is a natural evolution for the line-up. But unlike its little brother, the chronograph is not modelled on a vintage model, making it more creative, though it still retains the same styling as the base model. Being more complicated than the time-and-date version, the PRX Chronograph is expectedly wider and taller – it is rather bulky in fact – but it is surprisingly appealing in the metal. Plus the PRX Chronograph is also affordable and well priced. The PRX Chronograph ticks a lot of boxes, so we test drove the watch for a couple days to see if its appeal endured. Initial thoughts When I put the PRX Chronograph on my wrist, I instantly found it more appealing than most of Tissot’s offerings. In fact, the chronograph is even more appealing than last year’s time-only PRX. That was unexpected because the time-only model seems to do better on paper. The original PRX is smaller, thinner, plus it has a patterned dial, all desirable features in an integrated-bracelet sports watch. But it is perhaps those very features that might seem like shortcomings – the simpler design and large size – that make the chronograph appealing. Many Tissot watches are over-designed, but despite being one of the more complicated watches in the Tissot catalogue, the PRX Chronograph is just right. Any more and it might have been too much. At the same time, it’s exactly the size that gives the chr...

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Wild and Free Jason Momoa with the adventurous Panerai Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Jul 28, 2022

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Wild and Free Jason Momoa with the adventurous Panerai

Editor’s Note: When Nicolas Cage recently gushed over his Grand Seiko on the red carpet, many of you in the comments noted how he should become an ambassador for the brand – and we agreed it would definitely be a fun pairing. This then got us thinking what other ambassador match-ups we would want to see. … ContinuedThe post Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Wild and Free Jason Momoa with the adventurous Panerai appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The SJX x Kudoke “Zodiac” Nominated for GPHG 2022 SJX Watches
Zodiac Nominated Jul 26, 2022

The SJX x Kudoke “Zodiac” Nominated for GPHG 2022

The preeminent – and perhaps only international – awards for watchmaking, Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), has just announced the competing timepieces of 2022. We are please that one of own editions, the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac”, is competing in “Artistic Crafts”. Created last year for the 10th anniversary of SJX Watches, the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” is a candidate alongside marques like Voutilainen and Hermes in a category that calls for “exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enamelling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), skeleton-working, etc.” The Zodiac is all about engraving – done by hand naturally – with both the front and back decorated in relief and textures. Both the dial and movement are fully engraved by the hands of the skilful artisans at Kudoke. The hand engraving is extensive and complete, with is nothing on the dial or movement that is engraved by machine – even the brand name on the dial is executed by hand. But the Zodiac is more than just artisanal technique. It is also an artistic creation: the hour symbols on the dial were commissioned especially for the watch and drawn by Canadian illustrator Lee Yuen-Rapati, who’s now the in-house designer at Fears. He cleverly combined both a sign of the zodiac and Roman numeral into each hour markers. The marker at ten, for instance, is Aquarius but also contains “X”, the Roman numeral for “10”. To echo the celestial theme on the fr...

IN DEPTH: The Laco PRO Series lets you customise your ideal flieger pilot’s watch Time+Tide
Laco PRO Series lets you Jul 26, 2022

IN DEPTH: The Laco PRO Series lets you customise your ideal flieger pilot’s watch

When it comes down to wanting a flieger watch, everything is about the details. Do you want a smaller case? There are plenty of options from a bunch of brands. Left-handed crown? It’s rare, but not unheard of. A historical connection? Even then, there are five brands to choose from. The new Laco PRO Series … ContinuedThe post IN DEPTH: The Laco PRO Series lets you customise your ideal flieger pilot’s watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Swedish activist Greta Thunberg with climate conscious Oris Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Jul 21, 2022

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Swedish activist Greta Thunberg with climate conscious Oris

Editor’s Note: When Nicolas Cage recently gushed over his Grand Seiko on the red carpet, many of you in the comments noted how Cage should become an ambassador for the brand – and we agreed it would definitely be a fun pairing. This then got us thinking what other ambassador matchups we would want to see. … ContinuedThe post Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Swedish activist Greta Thunberg with climate conscious Oris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Yosuke Sekiguchi Primevère Prototype SJX Watches
Jul 21, 2022

Up Close: Yosuke Sekiguchi Primevère Prototype

Though born in Japan, Yosuke Sekiguchi is steeped in the tradition of Swiss watchmaking. He moved first to France and then Switzerland some two decades ago, and is today fluent in French and skilled at watchmaking. After a career at complications specialists like Claret and La Joux-Perret, Mr Sekiguchi established his own brand in 2020 with the goal of building a historically-inspired timepiece of extremely high quality. The concept is a familiar one that has been interpreted in various ways by others, but Mr Sekiguchi arguably succeeds far better in both paying tribute to the historical inspiration and achieving impressive, artisanal quality. His first watch is the Primevère, which made its debut just earlier this year. It is an elegantly designed and clearly rooted in 19th century pocket watches, but also novel in several ways, reflecting Mr Sekiguchi’s unusual approach to the concept. Amongst other things, it is robustly constructed and larger than such wristwatches typically are. And while the movement resembles its vintage inspiration, it is fabricated and decorated in a finer, more artisanal manner than the 19th century original. NB: The Primevère pictured here is the first complete prototype with a gold-plated case, so it still reveals several obvious imperfections in the movement decoration. Mr Sekiguchi promises the the final product will be perfectly finished and I believe that it will be. Initial thoughts Although it appears to be a pocket watch reproducti...

It’s official: Speedmaster sales up 50% in the wake of the MoonSwatch collaboration Time+Tide
Jul 14, 2022

It’s official: Speedmaster sales up 50% in the wake of the MoonSwatch collaboration

There is little mystery about the seismic impact of the MoonSwatch on Swatch sales. The brand can simply not make enough of them, and despite grumblings about accessibility and lack of an online sales option, demand is still red hot. The bigger question that’s emerged is, what impact will the MoonSwatch have on sales for … ContinuedThe post It’s official: Speedmaster sales up 50% in the wake of the MoonSwatch collaboration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A professional look for the TAG Heuer Orange Diver Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Orange Diver TAG Heuer Jul 7, 2022

A professional look for the TAG Heuer Orange Diver

TAG Heuer has not been shy about taking plenty of inspiration from their back catalogue and integrating it into their new releases. Rather than just rehashing the same old design, however, they’ve always brought something new and/or improved to the table. We first saw this with the Tribute to Ref. 844, as the same iconic … ContinuedThe post A professional look for the TAG Heuer Orange Diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Extreme E “Island X Prix” Edition Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Extreme E “Island Jul 6, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Extreme E “Island X Prix” Edition

Across the Time+Tide team, I am probably the least tuned into the racing world. Fun fact: I do not even have a driver’s license. Shameful, I know, but as someone born and raised in NYC, it is more common than you might think. Nonetheless, I can still appreciate the racing watch category. We often see … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Extreme E “Island X Prix” Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Tissot PRX Gold Quartz brings the ’70s alive on your wrist Time+Tide
Tissot PRX Gold Quartz brings Jun 26, 2022

The Tissot PRX Gold Quartz brings the ’70s alive on your wrist

Tissot knew exactly what they were doing when they kickstarted the budget-friendly integrated bracelet trend with the PRX. Looking at one instantly throws your mind back to the 1970s, regardless of whether you were actually alive then or not. Between the flared jeans and ABBA, one thing the 1970s had was an appreciation for gaudy … ContinuedThe post The Tissot PRX Gold Quartz brings the ’70s alive on your wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

English Independent Garrick Introduces the S5 SJX Watches
Garrick Jun 17, 2022

English Independent Garrick Introduces the S5

Having debuted an elaborately open-worked watch in 2014 and then applied its trademark style to something more basic, Garrick has just unveiled its fifth model to date, the S5. Retaining the quintessential elements of Garrick, namely a guilloche dial with Roman numerals and hands with an uncommonly large counterweight, the S5 is essentially a smaller and simpler iteration of Garrick’s earlier models, but it’s an all-new watch in a technical sense. Equipped with a new, in-house movement, the S5 sets itself apart from its predecessors with compact dimensions that make it Garrick’s smallest to date. Initial thoughts The proportions of the S5 are its primary point of appeal. It’s only 39 mm wide and 8 mm tall, making it substantially smaller than the brand’s previous offerings. Those were all 42 mm in diameter, making them too large for the largely elegant and traditional aesthetic. And the large case size also brought to mind similarly styled but less expensive watches equipped with Unitas movements. Along with the reduced size, the S5 is also the brand’s most minimalist watch so far and the first with centre seconds. Given that Garrick’s earlier models all had subsidiary seconds, the centre seconds (and the smaller diameter) makes it clear that the movement within the S5 is different. It is indeed a new calibre, albeit one that wasn’t originally constructed with a centre seconds, which requires means a secondary train was required to reposition the second...