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Results for The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.

How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200? Time+Tide
Seiko become worth $1200? Resale Aug 28, 2022

How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200?

Resale value is a can of worms like no other, turning the discussion of wristwatches from a matter of taste into an investments debate. On one end of the spectrum are people who are happy to buy watches at their retail price, because they’ve got no plans to sell them as soon as they’re paid … ContinuedThe post How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Looking back at how Hublot came back with a bang at Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Hublot came back Aug 28, 2022

Looking back at how Hublot came back with a bang at Watches & Wonders

Editor’s Note: We’re not going to pretend that Hublot is for everyone – their designs are far too bold and ambitious for that. But any watch lover will always get a kick out of the brand’s new releases which – whether they involve material innovation or unexpected collabs – always demand horological attention. Here’s another look … ContinuedThe post Looking back at how Hublot came back with a bang at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

S.U.F. Helsinki Debuts Limited Edition for Finnish Formula 1 Driver SJX Watches
Aug 26, 2022

S.U.F. Helsinki Debuts Limited Edition for Finnish Formula 1 Driver

Finnish through and through, Sarpaneva and its affordable sub-line S.U.F. Helsinki often turn to their native land for inspiration, as with the glow-in-the-dark Gothic fantasy of the recent Nocturne. Now S.U.F. is celebrating Valtteri Bottas, a Formula 1 driver nickname the “Flying Finn” who now races for Alfa Romeo. The S.U.F Flying Finn is a pair of limited editions created in collaboration with Mr Bottas. The first is the VB77 in red and white that’s named after the driver’s car number, while the second is the FF-S dressed in white and silver. Both share a partially open dial that’s a first for an S.U.F. wristwatch. FF-S Initial thoughts I’m not generally a fan of watches with racing stripes – and I didn’t warm up to earlier S.U.F watches with stripes – but the Flying Finn aesthetic works. In fact, it’s one of the few watches with an exaggerated racing look that works. The red-and-blue VF77 with its DLC-coated case is especially striking. Mr Bottas with the VB77 The success of the design perhaps because of the partially-open dial along with the “bottle cap” bezel. And the tangible features of the watch also helps. Both models have the typical S.U.F. appeal, namely a highly quality case and well-made dial, along with an affordable price tag. That’s relative, however, as the Flying Finn editions cost about double the entry-level 180 from S.U.F. that contains the same movement but inside a simpler case with a plainer dial. VB77 FF-S Racing time B...

We’ve found a sure-fire way to get a Rolex on your wrist (sort of…) Time+Tide
Rolex Aug 25, 2022

We’ve found a sure-fire way to get a Rolex on your wrist (sort of…)

There’s been much hand-wringing of late about the slow death of traditional men’s formalwear. The writing was already on the sartorial wall in 2019 when, for example, British retailer Marks and Spencer slashed their suit and formalwear ranges by 14 per cent while increasing their leisurewear lines by 12 per cent. And then came COVID-19. During … ContinuedThe post We’ve found a sure-fire way to get a Rolex on your wrist (sort of…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Depth: Ulysse Nardin Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Utterly bizarre Aug 25, 2022

In Depth: Ulysse Nardin Freak S

Utterly bizarre and thoroughly ingenious when it debuted in March 2001, the Freak remains avant-garde even two decades later. But unlike the highly modern creations from brands like De Bethune and Urwerk, the Freak arguably gets less credit than it deserves, simply because Ulysse Nardin isn’t a niche, independent watchmaker. But that takes nothing away from the concept, which has been made more avant-garde than ever. Launched earlier this year, the Freak S is now the flagship model in the Freak line-up. In a first for a Freak, it reimagines the trademark carousel display, which now carries twin inclined balance wheels linked by a differential. Initial thoughts The landmark creation of the modern-day Ulysse Nardin (UN) brand, Freak was and still is interesting because it turns conventional movement construction on its head. Most of the moving parts are mounted onto a carousel on the dial that doubles up as the minute hand, while under the dial sits a massive mainspring that occupies most of the case volume. No other watch combines unorthodox form and function like the Freak even though it was launched in 2001, well before most of today’s best known avant-garde timepieces. That was four years before Urwerk unveiled its satellite-cube hour display, for instance, ensuring the Freak’s place as a pioneering creation. The Freak S (left) and the original Freak from 2001 While the essence of the Freak has been mostly retained over the various iterations since its launch, ...

Rolex Explorer Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Aug 23, 2022

Rolex Explorer Guide

The Rolex Explorer is in many ways the quintessential dressy tool watch from Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual collection - less flashy than the GMT-Master, less bulky than the Submariner, while still rooted, like those two models, in a history of adventure and discovery. While it has changed very little since the 1950s, today’s Rolex Explorer is the culmination of many decades of aesthetic and technical evolution, guided by a watchmaker for whom the subtlest details make all the difference in the world to its avid legions of fans. Underpinning the Explorer: Oyster Case and Perpetual Caliber The Rolex Explorer, like all Oyster Perpetual timepieces in Rolex’s Professional collection, is an expression of two technical milestones that Rolex and its visionary founder Hans Wisdorf contributed to watchmaking history. The first is the so-called Oyster case, developed in 1926, which revolutionized the construction of watch cases with its dustproof, waterproof, hermetically sealed structure, secured by a threaded caseback and a crown that screwed tightly into the case. In 1931, Rolex made history again with the creation of its first “Perpetual” movement (below), whose self-winding mechanism was driven by an oscillating rotor. The marriage of these two inventions gave rise to the “Oyster Perpetual” line of timepieces that remain at the heart of Rolex’s collection today, beginning with the Datejust in 1945 and coming to full fruition with the tool-oriented, yet still luxuri...

“They wanted $50K, I gave them $2M” – Jean-Claude Biver on how he got Bond for Omega Time+Tide
Omega If you haven’t been Aug 23, 2022

“They wanted $50K, I gave them $2M” – Jean-Claude Biver on how he got Bond for Omega

If you haven’t been watching or listening to the About Efffing Time (AET) podcast, co-hosted by Adrian Barker of Bark & Jack, George Bamford of Bamford Watch Department, and our very own Andrew McUtchen, well… it is about effing time you did. Each bi-weekly episode revolves around a dedicated topic, and is followed by a … ContinuedThe post “They wanted $50K, I gave them $2M” – Jean-Claude Biver on how he got Bond for Omega appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display Time+Tide
Hamilton s digital darling has Aug 23, 2022

Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display

First released in a gold and red variant echoing the 1970s original, the PSR has seen numerous iterations over the last two years. We covered two blacked-out models at the start of the year, one of which had close ties to another reboot – the Matrix franchise. The new Hamilton PSR with a green hybrid … ContinuedThe post Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dress watches that are unlikely streetwear champions Time+Tide
Aug 19, 2022

Dress watches that are unlikely streetwear champions

We’ve all seen iced-out Royal Oaks and Datejusts on the wrists of Supreme-donning hypebeasts, but every once in a while, we’re surprised by the flash of a slim, two-handed piece hiding underneath oversized cuffs. While there is certainly a predominant brand in the sector of streetwear dress watches, I firmly believe that there are other … ContinuedThe post Dress watches that are unlikely streetwear champions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero SJX Watches
Aug 18, 2022

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

Short for “Franc Vila Founder”, FVF is a tale of redemption. Founded by the namesake designer, FVF is the second act of the Spanish watch designer, one he embarked on after his first went off the rails as many independent watch brands tend to do. FVF’s inaugural watch is the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. It’s an original look and at a glance there’s nothing linking it to the creations of the original Franc Vila brand – a good thing in my estimation. But look closely and hints of the earlier designs emerge. Most importantly the FVF1 reveals itself as an impressively executed watch – the movement has an interesting construction, excellent finishing, and an original aesthetic. Mr Vila has made his comeback in style. NB: The watch pictured is a prototype that’s been worn so it shows wear. The FVF1 has a flying tourbillon, roller day indicator, day and night display, and a 100-hour power reserve Rising from the ashes Born in Valencia but now a longtime resident of Switzerland, Mr Vila founded his namesake brand in 2005 and rode the wave that buoyed modern, flamboyant independent watchmaking for the next decade or so. Propelled by Mr Vila’s convivial personality, Franc Vila became one of the hot brands of the era. During those heady days, it could sell several dozen tourbillons and minute repeaters a year, making it one of the top clients of now-defunct complications specialist BNB Concept. A classic from the original Franc Vila brand, the Tourbillon Planèta...

Panerai Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Panerai Aug 17, 2022

Panerai Watches Guide

Tracing its roots to the 19th Century but bursting on the cultural scene on the cusp of the 21st, Panerai is an overnight success more than 100 years in the making. From humble and very utilitarian beginnings as a maker of tools and instruments for military divers in the 1930s, the Florentine watchmaker has become a powerhouse in the luxury sector, its unapologetically militaristic and indisputably masculine designs blurring the lines between tool watch and luxury item like few brands before or since. Here is the story of Officine Panerai and an overview of the modern Panerai watch collections. Guido Panerai and the First Radiomir Giovanni Panerai opened his watchmaking shop on Ponte Alle Grazie in Florence in 1860, and with the help of his son Leon Franceso built it into the ancestral Italian city’s first retailer of Swiss watches as well as its first watchmaking school. When Giovanni’s grandson Guido took over the business, near the turn of the century - and acquired his wife’s family business, which made tools and hardware for military use, including combat sights, compasses and depth gauges - it had become essentially two companies: Orologerie Svizzera, the shop that sold prestigious Swiss watch brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Rolex; and Guido Panerai & Figlio, primarily a supplier of precision instruments and diving equipment to the Royal Italian Navy, or Regia Marina.  As a military provider, Panerai recognized the need early on f...

In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Aug 15, 2022

In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air

Since it acquired Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps in 2012 Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing and refining its complicated watch offering. Last year it debuted the Carpe Diem minute repeater with automaton, the most complex watch LDFT has developed to date. But the signature completion of Louis Vuitton (LV) is still the patented three-dimensional jumping hours known as Spin Time. The complication relies on 12 cubes to indicate the hours, rotating one by one every hour. Since its introduction in 2009, the Spin Time has been iterated into a variety of formats, including a GMT, regatta countdown chronograph, and most recently a glow-in-the-dark extravaganza. But its most refined form is arguably the Spin Time Air launched in 2019 that has a dozen “floating” cubes arrayed around a movement suspended between the front and back crystals. Initial thoughts The Spin Time Air has all the elements of an interesting watch. Both transparent and striking, the “floating” display brings to mind historical mystery timepieces, with the tall Tambour case serving as the perfect frame for the suspended display. But it is the cubic hour display sets it apart. The hour display is truly unique, even when compared against the most exotic in independent watchmaking. It brings to mind Urwerk’s cubic display found in the UR-210, but that’s a three-dimensional reinterpretation of the wandering hours, whereas the Spin Time is actually an innovative take on the jum...

Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up Time+Tide
Aug 15, 2022

Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up

We don’t want be party-poopers here, but let’s face it, the End Times do increasingly seem to be nigh. Reasons not to be cheerful include global warming, the pandemic, the ongoing war in the Ukraine and escalating tensions in Taiwan. Throw in a spot of monkeypox and the fact that a pint of beer now … ContinuedThe post Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Kurono Calendrier Type 1 is already sold out! We explore why. Deployant
Kurono Tokyo s latest drop Aug 13, 2022

New: Kurono Calendrier Type 1 is already sold out! We explore why.

The new release marks Kurono's success once again in textbook execution of a product launch. It begins with a great design, good pricing and finishes with great marketing. Riding on Hajime's popularity, the brand story benefits from the watchmaker's credibility. The design is classic and accessible, with finishing that is a bar above most in its segment. It also benefits from finding a niche in the USD1-4k segment, in a non-mass production vertical. Its limited production possibly limited by assembly and manufacturing capacity works ironically in its favor, to create scarcity.