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An Industry Insider’s Take on François-Henry Bennahmias’ Success at Audemars Piguet SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Long rumoured Jun 16, 2022

An Industry Insider’s Take on François-Henry Bennahmias’ Success at Audemars Piguet

Long rumoured and now official, François-Henry Bennahmias will depart Audemars Piguet (AP) at the end of 2023 after an 11-year reign as chief executive. An iconoclast who dared to voice out loud what many people were thinking, he turbocharged a brand that had been coasting and was gradually being edged out by more aggressive competitors. Over the last ten years AP has more than doubled its turnover and operating margin, while maintaining its exclusivity thus enhancing its attraction for customers and collectors. Often criticised for its dependence on a single product family – the legendary Royal Oak contributes makes up over 90% of turnover and even more of profit – the Le Brassus brand has been able to reinvent its flagship product during François’ tenure, turning it into an icon in watchmaking. But Bennahmias’ marketing and business plan owes less to genius than to common sense and a unique ability to unite his team. Brands are crafted by people The path to success for the successful (re)launch of the horological icon is straightforward in hindsight but it is all related to human factors. I am a firm believer in the fact that brands are made by people and not spreadsheets. In a luxury brand, the personality of the chief executive (or creative director) is key to the promotion of its values. A strong personality with character traits suited to a pro boxer, Bennahmias has a strong charisma that allows him to motivate his troops and lead from the front. He has ...

INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend Time+Tide
Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Jun 2, 2022

INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend

The first rule of half-arsed journalism is that if something happens twice it’s a coincidence and if it happens three times then it’s a trend. On that basis the theme of the past week has been bronze-cased watches with blue dials. Along came the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue, followed in quick succession with the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Gintastic! The Weird And Wonderful World Of Today’s Oddball Gins (Warning: Some Are Just Mad As A Hatter!) – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 21, 2022

Gintastic! The Weird And Wonderful World Of Today’s Oddball Gins (Warning: Some Are Just Mad As A Hatter!) – Reprise

What do truffles, Harley-Davidson motorcycles, trout, elephant dung, and green ants have in common? These items and countless more have all been used to make specialist craft gins. Sure, gin needs juniper. But after that it is open slather. Indeed, it is hard to think of a plant, herb, root, flower, leaf, and much more than has not been used to make gin. And some of them are just batsh*t crazy!

WHO TO FOLLOW: Let @lume_shot get you all the right angles Time+Tide
May 1, 2022

WHO TO FOLLOW: Let @lume_shot get you all the right angles

The amount of talent and entrepreneurial personalities within the watch world constantly surprises me.  For such a niche hobby, it seems that every other person I encounter is either creating or planning to create. From photographers, to specialists in their fields, these individuals just seem to be wired differently than most, making it impossible not … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: Let @lume_shot get you all the right angles appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ed Sheeran shows hardcore watch collectors are also on the MoonSwatch hype train Time+Tide
Omega Apr 26, 2022

Ed Sheeran shows hardcore watch collectors are also on the MoonSwatch hype train

The raging hype over the MoonSwatch has provoked a maelstrom of opinions. Some people believe it’s a bold collaboration that has reinvigorated the appeal of both Swatch and Omega. Others dismiss the MoonSwatch as little more than a marketing stunt that cheapens Omega’s iconic Speedmaster and even risks diminishing its long-term appeal. As the discussion … ContinuedThe post Ed Sheeran shows hardcore watch collectors are also on the MoonSwatch hype train appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

8 Picks From The Ineichen ‘Precious Blues’ Auction On April 23, 2022 Featuring Delectable Rarities By De Bethune, Alain Silberstein, And Many Other Independents Quill & Pad
De Bethune Alain Silberstein Apr 15, 2022

8 Picks From The Ineichen ‘Precious Blues’ Auction On April 23, 2022 Featuring Delectable Rarities By De Bethune, Alain Silberstein, And Many Other Independents

There is a watch auctioneer focusing on bringing beauty into auctions rather than chasing world records by concentrating on (the) two highly popular brands: Ineichen based in Zurich. And here Elizabeth Doerr highlights eight timepieces in its next auction that she thinks we should be paying special attention to when others might not be. Ineichen's Precious Blues auction takes place on April 23, 2022.

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022 Quill & Pad
Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Apr 2, 2022

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022

At Watches and Wonders 2022, Chopard unveiled another Alpine Eagle, this time with a sophisticated escapement: a flying tourbillon. While not too long ago the high-end market seemed to be flooded with this tiny whirlwind, that no longer seems to be the case. And Sabine Zwettler thinks that there could not be a better place for a new flying tourbillon than the “Aletsch” blue dial of the Alpine Eagle.

Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch Mar 22, 2022

Citizen Remakes Lost-at-Sea Diver’s Watch

One of Citizen’s earlier dive watches, the Challenge Diver of 1977 is rated to 150 m – but it evidently can withstand more than pressure under water. In 1983, a long-submerged example was discovered at Long Reef Beach in Sydney, Australia. And despite being encrusted with barnacles, it was in working condition according to Citizen. Now Citizen revisits the Challenge Diver – and memorialises the barnacle-covered watch – with the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m “Fujitsubo”. The new watch retains the retro design and dimensions but has been thoroughly upgraded with modern materials and mechanics, including a titanium case and movement resistant to magnetic fields of up to 16,000 A/m (or about 200 Gauss). Initial thoughts While the new launch is headlined by an interesting story, the watch itself is appealing, especially for its slim proportions and affordability. At 41 mm wide and 12.3 mm tall, the Fujitsubo is one of the thinnest dive watches in this price segment. In fact, it’s even thinner than the vintage original. And it’s also slimmer than its most obvious rival, the Seiko 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS”, which is about 1 mm taller. And it will also be lightweight. As is convention for most of Citizen’s mid-range dive watches, the case is Super Titanium, the brand’s proprietary alloy that has undergone surface hardening, leaving it five times more scratch resistant than steel. Visually, the Fujitsubo is simple and almost gene...

Corum Classical Billionaire: A Unique Piece That, While Pricey, Isn’t (Quite) As Expensive As It Looks And Its Name Suggests Quill & Pad
Corum Classical Billionaire Feb 17, 2022

Corum Classical Billionaire: A Unique Piece That, While Pricey, Isn’t (Quite) As Expensive As It Looks And Its Name Suggests

If there is one thing Martin Green likes, it is a well-designed diamond-set watch. And while there are quite a few around, there aren’t many as good as the Corum Classical Billionaire, which focuses on displaying the art of diamond cutting and setting. No less than 424 diamonds (for a total of 13.46 carats) decorate the white gold case. That is a lot of stones, but diamonds alone don't automatically make for a great watch. It’s the way that the gems are cut and set that ultimately decides if they add something more than just their precious and pricey nature.

Why do brands give their new watches such dumb names? Time+Tide
Feb 16, 2022

Why do brands give their new watches such dumb names?

Sometimes I encounter a watch that makes me think of Kim Jong-il. Let me explain. With more than 1,200 official titles, the North Korean dictator boasted more aliases than the average member of the Wu-Tang Clan. These included “Guardian Deity Of The Planet”, “Ever-Victorious General”, “Lodestar of the 21st Century”, “Eternal Bosom of Hot Love” … ContinuedThe post Why do brands give their new watches such dumb names? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Unpacking the quiet brilliance of Marty’s TAG Heuer in Ozark Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Feb 4, 2022

Unpacking the quiet brilliance of Marty’s TAG Heuer in Ozark

On the surface, Marty Byrde is an unlikely modern hero.  The first series of the Netflix show Ozark opens to reveal a mild-mannered financial adviser stuck in the doldrums of a strained marriage with an adulterous wife.  From there, over the next four seasons, things plummet downhill faster than an Olympic skier. When it turns … ContinuedThe post Unpacking the quiet brilliance of Marty’s TAG Heuer in Ozark appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Revives the King Seiko SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Jan 26, 2022

Seiko Revives the King Seiko

Introduced just over a year ago, the King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation SJE083 was the surprise comeback of the King Seiko label that had been dormant for decades. Though it was a limited edition, the SJE083 hinted at the possibility of King Seiko returning as a regular production offering. Perhaps quicker than expected, that has happened with the introduction of the King Seiko. A single model that’s in four variants, the new King Seiko is effectively vintage in both size and style, being modelled on the original KSK of 1965. The original King Seiko KSK of 1965 Initial thoughts Sitting in between Grand Seiko and the Seiko Presage in both price and positioning, King Seiko is the brand’s affordable entry into vintage-inspired design – while incorporating Grand Seiko vibes – with its sharply faceted case and, for the first time, a bracelet. The bracelet gives the new King Seiko something of an integrated-bracelet feel, which puts it in competition with more modern offerings, including the Citizen Series 8. But the new King Seiko stands out for its old-school design that’s faithful to the original. The strict adherence to historical design is the norm for Seiko remakes, although most of the brand’s remakes have been limited editions. Because King Seiko a regular production offering, it is far more accessible, both in terms of price and availability. It does away with the date, unlike the earlier SJE083 The only possible drawback is repositioning of King Seiko,...

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only brings 40mm to titanium, ceramic and 18K yellow gold Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Jan 25, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only brings 40mm to titanium, ceramic and 18K yellow gold

With Hublot, the most intimidating barrier for me was often the larger sizing their references were typically produced in. Hublot, unapologetically, favours larger diameters as the canvas for their bold personality and mastery of materials. Personally, I felt excluded from the party at times, liking the brand’s novelties but not being prepared to tackle their … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only brings 40mm to titanium, ceramic and 18K yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Skyline brings a 1/10th of a second counter to a time and date watch Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Skyline brings Jan 24, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Skyline brings a 1/10th of a second counter to a time and date watch

Zenith is well-known for their mastery of hi-beat technology with calibres capable of measuring incredibly fine increments. When the Zenith Defy Revival A3642 was introduced last week, Zenith made it very clear in their assets that it was just the beginning of what was to come for the Defy line – the spark that would … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Skyline brings a 1/10th of a second counter to a time and date watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time… Time+Tide
Seiko VK64 mechaquartz movements Jan 19, 2022

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time…

Editor’s Note: “What Tweaks my Tourb” is a recurring series where I reveal the things that irk me within my own watch-collecting journey. Previously I touched on clasp sizing, asymmetrical running seconds registers, and Seiko VK64 mechaquartz movements. This week will be arguably my most pathologically nitpicky yet, but then again I suspect a lot of … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts… Time+Tide
Jan 18, 2022

OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts…

I’ve never understood the term “tool watch”. After all, you don’t hear people talking about tool cars or tool computers – because “tool” is redundant. Anything used to do something is a tool, and last I checked, even a dress watch tells the time. If you want to refer to a dive watch, then call it … ContinuedThe post OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Family Heirloom and the Legacy of American Watchmaking SJX Watches
Jan 3, 2022

A Family Heirloom and the Legacy of American Watchmaking

This is the story of a man, my great grandfather Dominik “Dinko” Bakuk Kovacevic, his Waltham pocket watch, and the legacy of the American watch industry. Though he died before I was born, Dinko is a significant figure in my life because I was given my middle name, Dominic, in his honor. Dinko was born in 1875 in Stari Grad on the island of Hvar on the Dalmation coast of what is now Croatia, but was then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. As a young man, Dinko joined the short-lived Austro-Hungarian Navy and quickly rose through the ranks to become an officer. My great grandparents, Dominik and Aloisia Kovacevic, on their wedding day in 1908 Following his military service, at the age of 27, he set sail from the French port of Le Havre for New York City, aboard the SS La Lorraine. He arrived on Ellis Island in New York Harbor on August 16, 1902. He was joined by his fiancee Aloisia six years later, and they were married a few days after her arrival in the US in 1908. The SS La Lorraine, the ship that brought Dinko to the United States in 1902. Image – Library of Congress After his arrival in the US, Dinko moved west, like many entrepreneurial immigrants of his generation. By 1920, he was the proprietor of a grocery store in Tonopah, Nevada, before eventually settling near Berkeley, California where my mother’s family still lives. Dinko passed away in 1953, by which time he was affectionately known within the family as “Grandpa Old Man.” My great grandmother, ...

Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2021 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie Dec 27, 2021

Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2021

A trend that has been repeating across industries during 2021 also transformed the luxury-watch business during the year – an insatiable demand for watches and supply perennially falling short. Although there were new launches throughout the year – which kept enthusiasts continually entertained – the “novelties” for 2021 were mostly not the sort typical of the go-go years. New products was arguably less exciting than business would imply, largely because new watches take several years to develop and the uptick in business became seemingly overnight. Many high-profile new launches were predictable variations of familiar models. A seemingly familiar variation but actually something entirely new and one of the top watches of 2021 Nevertheless, there were standouts. Here are a dozen of the year’s best watches picked by our editors (or even owned by some of them, but alas not the Vermeer). Led by a magnificent art-complication, the list includes several technical highlights – from an impressive time-only movement from Patek Philippe to Richard Mille’s ingenious winding mechanism – and of course a few affordable watches on the list. All-in-one Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer: “This pocket watch is the epitome of high-end horology, blending both art and engineering. While the base movement within is derived from the mega-complicated Ref. 57260 pocket watch, the Vermeer’s movement has arguably been cl...

VIDEO: How to buy your partner a watch for Christmas Time+Tide
Dec 25, 2021

VIDEO: How to buy your partner a watch for Christmas

EDITOR’S NOTE: What’s that you say? It’s already Christmas? Oh well, better late than never I suppose. Plus there’s always next year, too. This video primer will arm you with the knowledge to really jingle your partner’s bell in the horological gift department at least… If you’re thinking of pulling the trigger on a watch for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: How to buy your partner a watch for Christmas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: The masterful photographic stylings of @waitlisted Time+Tide
Dec 24, 2021

WHO TO FOLLOW: The masterful photographic stylings of @waitlisted

If you’re a New York City watch collector and have attended any watch event in the past two years, chances are you’ve met this week’s follow. He’s a quiet photographer whose images breathe fresh air into the repetitive soldier shots of watch adverts. His use of colour, reflections and an absolute mastery of the macro … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: The masterful photographic stylings of @waitlisted appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Aspen Snowmass Limited Edition Time+Tide
Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Aspen Dec 16, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Aspen Snowmass Limited Edition

Many brands align themselves with celebrities and famous influencers, but nothing is more authentic than nature and sport itself. In honor of the 75th anniversary of the Aspen Snowmass, fittingly Hublot, the official resort partner and timekeeper of the Aspen Snowmass, has decided to create a limited edition inspired by the slopes, powder, and action … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Aspen Snowmass Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The IWC Portugieser is having a moment from Squid Game and Hot Ones to The Rock Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Dec 4, 2021

The IWC Portugieser is having a moment from Squid Game and Hot Ones to The Rock

When I was bingeing Squid Game – the record-breaking Netflix series that has become a global phenomenon – I paused the show more than I would have liked trying to figure out which watch lead actor Lee Jung-jae was wearing. To be honest, I still don’t know. But the next best thing would be to figure … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portugieser is having a moment from Squid Game and Hot Ones to The Rock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Norqain Neverest Night Sight comes lumed up and ready for adventure Time+Tide
Norqain Neverest Night Sight comes Nov 28, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Norqain Neverest Night Sight comes lumed up and ready for adventure

In my less than a decade of collecting, I’ve come to categorise watch brands into two distinct groups. The first consists of brands that simply make watches. There is no specific target audience. A little bit of everything is thrown on the plate for as many people as possible to enjoy. The second group of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Norqain Neverest Night Sight comes lumed up and ready for adventure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

When high fashion collides with high function – the paradox of the haute couture tool watch Time+Tide
Rado x Nov 14, 2021

When high fashion collides with high function – the paradox of the haute couture tool watch

Okay, weird question: Can a high fashion house known for made-to-measure dresses, luxurious silk scarves or fine handbags produce a legitimate tool watch? What? Who would even ask something like that? What kind of weirdo are you?!! Me, that’s who. I’m your huckleberry. I’m the one who will ask “why not?” more often than “why?”.  … ContinuedThe post When high fashion collides with high function – the paradox of the haute couture tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021” SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Nov 4, 2021

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021”

Inspired by German “rolling eye” clocks of the mid 20th century, the Joker is now Konstantin Chaykin’s trademark wristwatch. But the Russian watchmaker’s repertoire is far more diverse than the googly-eyed face – watches that tell the time on Mars are another of his specialties. For Only Watch 2021, Mr Chaykin has combined the two concepts in the Martian Tourbillon. The robotic clown face indicates the time and calendar on Mars, while the back reveals a one-minute tourbillon that makes one revolution every Martian minute. Initial thoughts The Joker Selfie Mr Chaykin created for Only Watch 2019 was not merely a simple variation of the standard model, illustrating both Mr Chaykin’s creativity and his desire to put together something genuinely special for the event. With most watches at Only Watch 2019 being variations of existing models, the Joker Selfie was notable for being unique in a technical sense. The watch had a built-from-scratch complication, a new base movement, and even a novel case material (which is being used once again for this year’s creation). The case is Bulat, a high-carbon, patterned steel alloy Once again Mr Chaykin has put together a truly one-off watch for the biennial charity auction. It is impressive and ingenious, with a Martian complication that’s synonymous with Mr Chaykin. Despite all its novelty, it is easily recognisable as a Chaykin wristwatch. Like its predecessor, the Martian Tourbillon has a unique complication, albeit o...