Teddy Baldassarre
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Results for The Longitude Problem
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Teddy Baldassarre
Hodinkee
Auctions: Sotheby's to Sell a Complete Set of Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000 Pocket Watches for the First Time, With The Second-Highest Estimate Ever In Watches
Quoted in excess of $10 million, this is a rare chance to see a Star Caliber 2000, let alone the unprecedented chance to buy all four metals.
Fratello
Introducing: The MB&F; Legacy Machine 101 Evo
It’s hard to believe that MB&F; has been in business for 20 years. Yet, here we are with the marque that was part of a new wave of independents changing the look of Haute Horlogerie. Futuristic and funky designs are a hallmark of MB&F;. Today’s latest pair of Legacy Machine 101 (LM101) Evo watches continues […] Visit Introducing: The MB&F; Legacy Machine 101 Evo to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The new Grand Seiko Sunrise Tentagraph Limited Edition SLGC006
Released in 2023, the Tentagraph was Grand Seiko’s first-ever mechanical chronograph… I know, it sounds weird for a brand with about 65 years of history, but all of its chronographs used to be based on a Spring Drive architecture (calibres 9R86 and 9R96) until the launch of the SLGC001. Using the Evolution 9 platform, the Tentagraph […]
SJX Watches
Seiko Upcycles Leather for the Latest Presage
Seiko adds a new limited-edition to its line of affordable dress watch with the Presage Classic Series Upcycled Leather Strap that sports knurled bezel, golden-brown gradient dial, and with a leather strap made from shoe leather offcuts supplied by Regal, a Japanese shoemaker best known for its leather dress shoes. Initial Thoughts Though strange on the surface, the Seiko Presage and Regal tie-up makes sense. Both are affordable, solid offerings in their respective segments, and also distinctly Japanese. Notably, Regal is launching the saddle shoes that produced the offcuts later this week. The watch itself is a good looking iteration of Seiko’s familiar entry-level dress watch. The bezel and smoked dial are a pleasing combination that set this apart from most Presage models. Seiko didn’t mention the impetus for this collaboration in press materials; I suspect geography was a part. Regal builds its top of the line shoes in the town of Morioka, near Morioka Seiko Instruments, the heart of Seiko’s domestic mechanical watch production. That proximity lends a lot of authenticity to the collaboration for me, and I wish it were part of Seiko’s messaging, though I understand most consumers don’t care. At the same time, Regal is little known outside Japan, but its shoes are a fixture in major Japanese department stores. The transient nature of leather straps is arguably a shortcoming in watches like the new Presage, or the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon at the other en...
Video
A Review Of The Calligraph Duneshore Automatic By Visitor Watch Co - A future American Classic?
Monochrome
First Look – The new Grand Seiko Moonlit Birch SLGW007
Last year, for Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko introduced a rather important new model – well, a pair of models, to be precise, with the Birch Bark SLGW003 and SLGW002. A new member in the Evolution 9 family, it was the first to be categorised as thin and elegant, but also came with something […]
Worn & Wound
MB&F; Debuts the LM101 EVO
There’s a style of watch that I’ve grown particularly fond of over the last few years, and I sometimes find it hard to articulate why. The high end, exotic independent on a rubber strap calls to me like the Sirens. There’s something about the mix of high and low that appeals to me, I think, as it does with everything else I like, from Monty Python to the films of Bong Joon-ho. I also just find a good rubber strap to be one of the most comfortable ways to wear a watch, particularly (but not exclusively) in the warm weather months. And so I’ve nursed a years-long appreciation for Hublot (who basically invented this idea) and have a watch box disproportionately tilted to watches that give me the same feeling (a pair of Arcanauts, and a Bel Canto that lives on rubber year round spring to mind). It should not be surprising, then, that MB&F;’s EVO line has become a personal favorite. The EVO series of watches take Legacy Machine pieces (conceived as MB&F;’s collection inspired by classical watchmaking) and give them a sporty treatment, replacing leather straps with rubber, and adding water resistance and screw down crowns. It makes a ton of sense to create “everyday wear” versions of these watches (if you’re spending into the six figures on these pieces, I imagine you’d want to wear them more frequently, right?) and making them more casual and sporty in appearance is such a natural idea it’s almost hard to believe these haven’t existed from the beginning. N...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Trilobe Trente-Deux, One of the Very Good Surprises of GWD
Some watches truly need to be seen in person and worn on the wrist to be fully understood and appreciated. A flat digital rendering or a simple image doesn’t do them justice. You could easily argue that this is true for most timepieces, but in reality, there are occasions where you know the watch is […]
Hodinkee
The First Authorized History Of The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Arrives This Fall
The second installment of Nicholas Foulkes's Rolex series is to be released on September 29 by Wallpaper*.
Monochrome
First Look – The Monochromatic Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey
With CEO Davide Cerrato at the helm, Bremont has undergone a sea change, and many feared that its rugged tool watches would be transformed beyond recognition. However, earlier this year, fans were pleased to discover the new Altitude MB Meteor, an incredibly resilient pilot’s watch based on the former MB1. Part of the refreshed Altitude […]
Video
Seiko SKX009J Vs SKX009K - Is The Version Made In Japan Better & How Do They Compare?
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve
Hamilton’s Khaki Field line is the brand’s most popular and best-known collection. The outdoorsy watches are fan favorites and available in many variations. You can get a Hamilton Khaki Field in myriad sizes, with quartz, automatic, and hand-wound calibers, as well as with many dial options. But today, the brand introduces a new complication on […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Fleury Manufacture Reimagines the Classic Lemania Chronograph
Components-specialist-turned-watch brand Fleury Manufacture created its own chronograph calibre inspired by the famous Lemania cal. 2310, which debuts in the FXR-4 Chronograph. Given Fleury’s origins as a supplier of parts, the calibre is built almost entirely by Fleury, and to a high standard. And the FXR-4 stands out for another reason: while independent watchmaking is rarely the value proposition it once was, the FXR-4 is priced well. The FM04 movement Initial Thoughts Self-developed chronographs are a risky proposition for high-end independents. Established brands offer fierce competition, and developing a new chronograph calibre is arguably a thankless task today since enthusiasts remain fixated on highly-decorated three handers that offer the watchmaker a greater return on a smaller investment. The FM04 movement inside scores well in terms of construction and finishing. The architecture is more refined than most other Lemania-esque chronographs, with the chronograph driving wheel integrated into the going train. And the finishing, a mix of machine and hand finishing, has enough of the latter to be considered high end; the black-polished clutch lever is especially outstanding. The design of the exterior doesn’t score quite as well, which is not surprising given Fleury’s background as a parts supplier. The date isn’t to my preference – and the date pusher looks strangely large – it will be a meaningful value-add to others. Vacheron Constantin’s Lemania-ba...
Fratello
Behrens And Vianney Halter Team Up For The KWH Watch
I have said it before, and I will happily say it again: Behrens is one of the most exciting independent brands working today. Few companies make me lean forward in my chair when their emails pop into my inbox, but Behrens is one of them. The Shenzhen-based team has built a reputation for making watches […] Visit Behrens And Vianney Halter Team Up For The KWH Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Hamilton Khaki Field Power Reserve Mechanical 40mm
The Hamilton Khaki Field Collection is one of the cornerstones of the brand, building on the rugged simplicity and reliability of the original soldiers’ watches produced during the 20th century. Known for their straightforward functionality, earthy colours, and robust construction, Khaki Field models have long been appreciated. From hand-wound mechanical editions inspired by WWII field watches […]
Fratello
Beda’a Unveils The Beautiful Angles Mecaline In Two Versions
When my eyes first caught a glimpse of the Beda’a Angles in the late summer of last year, I was immediately intrigued. The watch features a classic case shape but doesn’t feel retro. Instead, it feels like a next step in the development of modern dress watches. Notably, though, the inaugural Angles collection was a […] Visit Beda’a Unveils The Beautiful Angles Mecaline In Two Versions to read the full article.
Video
The Governor Is Back! - Health Update & A Special Thank You For The Support
SJX Watches
De Bethune Shrinks the DB25 Starry Varius
De Bethune narrows the diameter of the bestselling DB25 Starry Varius but broadens its horizons with an entrancing red-leaning-purple dial achieved by heating titanium. And it’s more than just a pretty face, the DB25xs Starry Varius packs one of the most advanced two-hand manual wound calibres on the market. Initial Thoughts A personal favourite of mine, the Starry Varius line is gorgeous, technically adept, and meaningfully customisable. De Bethune justifies this variant as representing the night sky after a volcanic eruption, and colour perfectly matches viral, and hauntingly beautiful, images taken after the Tonga volcano eruption in 2022. As a chronometry-focused movement that paradoxically lacks a seconds hand, I find the cal. DB2005 very interesting. I’d even argue it makes sense as the six-day power reserve paints it as an endurance timekeeper. It’s also more technically interesting than most of the – very finely decorated – three handers from younger independents, even if Be Bethune’s R&D; efforts have dwindled recently. Under A Sea of Stars The dials are mirror polished titanium, which De Bethune heat oxidises for colour. While the brand’s specific method is proprietary, the thickness of this oxide layer determines which wavelengths of light transmit back to the observer, and this Burgundy dial must have a thinner oxide layer than the brand’s typical blue. Next, artisans set dozens of tiny gold pins into the dial to marks starts, before a micro-mill...
Monochrome
Introducing – More Refined, More Powerful… Meet the New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic
Since its introduction in 2022, the Tsuyosa collection by Citizen has become one of the brand’s bestselling models… And rightfully so. Combining a 1980s design inspiration with integrated sports watch vibes, an automatic movement and a very reasonable price tag, it’s a great entry-level proposition that has attracted a lot of newcomers to the brand […]
Worn & Wound
To Infinity and Beyond: the Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter ‘Mission Control’
After reading the requirements from NASA to become an astronaut, I can confidently say that my dreams of going to space anytime soon have been indefinitely paused. There are a few requirements that I just don’t seem to fit. Among them, I need to hold a Master’s degree in a STEM field (I have a bachelor’s degree in Gender Studies); I need to meet a rigorous physical (nothing about me has ever been described as “rigorous”); and you need to have 20/20 vision (not the first time astigmatism has bitten me in the ass). While this realization has come to a shock for me – a man who has never worked out a day in his life and squints to read the McDonald’s drive-through menu – I can say I’m quite comforted in the fact that Oris and Bamford Watch Department have just released their ProPilot Altimeter Mission Control. So if I can’t do the job, I can at least look the part. It’s safe to say that over the last few years, Oris’ stock has continued to rise. Couple that with Bamford’s proven track record to be an ideal collaborator and you have a match made in carbon-fiber composite heaven. For starters, the base watch of this reference is the ProPilot Altimeter, which has the distinct bragging rights of being the only watch in the world to house a Swiss Made automatic mechanical movement alongside a mechanical altimeter. And while this technical skill is undoubtedly what got Oris and Bamford’s proverbial wheels turning, it was the design of the ProPilot which a...
Deployant
New: The Citizen exciting Fall Winter releases
Citizen's The Citizen is one of the watches which get us excited these days, and for Fall and Winter, we see two additional new models being released.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529
Seiko’s latest Presage Classic Series looks back at the late Edo period (specifically the Bunsei era, 1818-1830) with a gradient dial shade that was popular at the time. Perhaps even more emphasis is given to the straps that highlight upcycling with the use of leather offcuts from fine shoemaking. Inspiration was taken from the signature […]
Video
Researching How To Be A Real Gentleman From The British Aristocracy +TGV's Family & Rolls Royces
Fratello
Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer
Upcycling, the process of transforming materials that would otherwise be discarded into new products of higher value through thoughtful design and creativity, is a current theme, and that’s a good thing. You’ll get my point by looking at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529. The elegant 40.2mm watch features a strap made of […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Hanhart Preventor HD12 Silk Purple
The everyday watch, the one-watch collection… A timepiece that blends ruggedness with refinement, capable of moving seamlessly from the office desk to the mountain trail. This is what Hanhart set out to achieve with the Preventor HD12, introduced in 2024 as the brand’s vision of a modern, go-anywhere, do-anything timepiece. Compact, scratch-resistant and deliberately simple, […]
Time+Tide
Living la dolce vita acquatica with the HTD Aquatìc MkII
The Florence-based independent watch brand returns with a slim and stylish take on a GADA dive watch.The post Living la dolce vita acquatica with the HTD Aquatìc MkII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Hanhart Preventor HD12 Silk Purple Limited Edition
While many of us love reading about the latest Haute Horlogerie pieces, it’s comforting to know that notable brands are producing affordable mechanical watches packed with added value. Hanhart has emerged as a leader in this market segment. Whether it’s the historic company’s focus on movement accuracy or the durability of case materials, it’s great […] Visit Introducing: The Hanhart Preventor HD12 Silk Purple Limited Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch?
When Tudor released a new “Lagoon Blue” take on the Black Bay 54, I knew I had to get my hands on it. You see, Tudor is a brand I keep coming back to. Unlike Rolex, which pursues constant iterative improvement above all else, Tudor seems to get more leeway to experiment and play with […] Visit Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch? to read the full article.
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