Hodinkee
Auctions: Nine Vintage Heuers To Watch At Sotheby's This Week
A dive into the 'Heuer Champions' portion of the catalog, including many with ties to motorsport.
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Hodinkee
A dive into the 'Heuer Champions' portion of the catalog, including many with ties to motorsport.
Quill & Pad
The art and craft is so important to the Parmigiani L'Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse that there are no dial side time indications. In fact, there is no dial side dial!
SJX Watches
Vyntage Horology is a micro brand established by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Middle East watch retailer giant best known for organising Dubai Watch Week. Vyntage has so far focused on small-run limited editions, with the latest being the Purity Tantonyx. The 24-piece edition is a time-only executed in a novel combination of exotic materials: a tantalum case with a polished black onyx dial. Inside is a manual-wind La Joux-Perret LJP7380 with a 90-hour power reserve that’s rotated 45 degrees from the usual position, giving the watch its signature four o’clock crown. Initial thoughts On its face, the Tantonyx seems like a familiar proposition from a micro brand. But a couple of things set this apart from the typical offerings in this segment. For one, the materials are unusual, especially at this price point. Granted, the tantalum case and onyx dial make this substantially more expensive than the base model Vyntage watch, but the pricing remains reasonable. The attention to detail in the execution also stands out. It’s obvious in the domed bezel and recessed seconds register (thanks to a two-part dial), but more notable in the finishing of the case, which has brushed flanks and polished tops for contrasting surfaces that are rarely done with tantalum due to its hardness. However, the design is a missed opportunity in terms of minimalism in my opinion. Though the dial is already clean – the model name is Purity after all – I would have gone a step further and eliminate...
SJX Watches
Time on My Hands: A Collector’s Journey in a World of Watches. By Mitch Katz. Tasfil Publishing. US$24.99 in paperback, US$10.89 for e-book Thanks to the growing popularity of watch collecting, there is no shortage of books one can find about watches. Even mainstream bookstores often have a few in stock, while specialty bookstores across the world, from Powell’s in Portland, Oregon to Tsutaya in Daikanyama, Tokyo, have entire sections devoted to watch books. But the watch publishing industry is dominated by brand books, like MB&F;: The First Fifteen Years, that celebrate a particular brand or model. Perhaps because watch collecting is still a nascent hobby, there have not been many (if any) memoirs written about watch collecting. And while Time on My Hands by Mitch Katz is highly educational at times, it succeeds most as a personal story about one man’s long journey down the rabbit hole of watch collecting. Initial thoughts As hard as it is to find a book written by a fellow collector, it’s rarer still to find one that recounts events that formed the basis of one’s own watch education. I first became aware of Mr Katz in 2008 when I joined the Purists forum, which is also where I became acquainted with SJX. When I was at university, the forum served as my nightly reading, and the wisdom I gained reading Mr Katz’s posts, and those of fellow Purists, helped me get up to speed on the many nuances of the watch industry. In Time on My Hands, Mr Katz shares the ups and...
There’s a saying “To know your future, you must know your past”. The new KUOE Sombrero collection exemplifies this very concept. KUOE is a Kyoto, Japan-based brand that looks for inspiration from all kinds of sources-from the colors found within a distant galaxy of stars that’s over 13 million years old to referencing ancient architecture here on planet earth. KUOE also looks to the future by adding their very first dive watch to expand their collection. Called the Sombrero 90-011, named after a galaxy that’s 29.35 million light years away, it comes in 5 out-of-this-world colorways that draw inspiration from each of these various points of inspiration. Just as the Sombrero galaxy stands as one of the most resilient and captivating formations in space, the KUOE Sombrero 90-011 is designed with exceptional durability, featuring 200 meter water resistance, an AR coated sapphire crystal, a Miyota Cal. 9039 movement, and a magnetic-resistant case. This watch, engineered for the most extreme conditions, mirrors the vastness and strength of its celestial namesake, crafted with precision and care in KUOE’s Kyoto workshop for those who seek both form and function. The 38mm case and warm, subtle tones make the Sobrero 90-011 a clear, down-to-earth for your next everyday wearer. The post Lookbook: KUOE Takes a Down-to-Earth Approach to their Out-of-This-World Sombrero 90-011 Dive Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Following the success of the Czapek × Fratello Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green, we knew we wanted to continue working with one of the most exciting brands in Haute Horlogerie. Without further ado, we introduce you to the Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green,” a watch that proudly celebrates its namesake color. Despite […] Visit Coming Soon: Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green” to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
My favorite thing about the watch world is the people. Far and away, my experience of watch enthusiasm has been - if you avoid anonymous comments sections - one of kindness, warmth, and, above all, generosity. This is a world in which people routinely hand you the watches off their wrists, and are always willing to offer up information, experience, and advice. So in that context, it was shocking, but not surprising, when our illustrious CEO, Blake Malin, offered me his own Lorier Hydra Zulu for an extended trial period. The Lorier Hydra Zulu, which was introduced around Windup NYC last year, has been on my radar since its release. To be frank, the only reason I don’t own this watch yet is that it’s been pretty hard to find one. With the infrequent drops selling out quickly and a real dearth of availability on the second-hand market, my only choice has been to wait for Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega to restock. Thankfully, Blake’s intervention means I’ve had an excellent chance to experience the watch and to see if the Hydra Zulu has what it takes to fill in as my new ‘fallback watch.’ I’ve always resisted the term ‘beater watch.’ While I understand the sentiment behind the phrase, I’ve never liked the connotation. After all, one person’s beater can easily be another’s grail (again, a phrase I’m not a fan of), and, while most use the term entirely innocuously, ‘beater watch’ has always struck me as somewhat… dismissive, if not downright condes...
SJX Watches
Soon to go on the block at Sotheby’s upcoming New York sale is the very first Citizen 100th Anniversary Special Limited Edition Pocket Watch, numbered “001/100” on the case back. The penultimate lot in the sale that will take place on December 6, the pocket watch is being sold to benefit 1% for the Planet, the environmental charity whose founders include the entrepreneur who established outdoor clothing brand Patagonia. Included with the pocket watch is a special edition copy of Citizen: The Essence of Time, a book that details the brand’s history over the past century. The book is numbered “001/100” to match the watch. The cal. 0270 Launched earlier this year to mark the centennial of Citizen’s first-ever watch, the anniversary pocket watch was inspired by the original 1924 timepiece. Though it has a vintage-inspired aesthetic, the pocket watch is entirely modern in construction and materials. The delicately textured dial is made via electrodeposition, while the case is polished titanium. More notably, the case houses the in-house cal. 0270, a newly developed manual-wind movement with a sophisticated construction that includes a free-sprung balance. After the automatic cal. 0200, this is the second mechanical movement unveiled by Citizen, continuing its progress in developing a stable of high-end in-house calibres. (We reviewed the pocket watch in detail last month.) Estimated to sell for around US$10,000-15,000, the pocket watch “001/100” will be sold a...
Fratello
Watches can be striking in different ways. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 and the Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse are striking watches that sound the time on demand. The Bremont Terra Nova 38 “Pink” is a field watch that steps out of its comfort zone with an unexpected, striking pink dial. You’ve seen […] Visit Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
The Patek Philippe 5208R is exceptional, even by the perception-warping standards of a watch industry insider like Tim Mosso and here he explains why.
In a move that should delight customers, IWC now offers a customization program for the Portugieser Chronograph. Buyers can visit a participating IWC boutique and configure a bespoke model, which can be delivered in just three weeks. Plus, new dial colors are available as part of the program. It’s nice to see a large brand […] Visit Now In IWC Boutiques: Portugieser Chronograph Customization to read the full article.
Fratello
Blancpain has been hard at work filling out its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection. Earlier this year, we saw the introduction of two new ceramic Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet models. Several months later, we were treated to the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune and Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback, both in 18K […] Visit Hands-On With Three New Ceramic Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
5 Watches You Can’t Miss at Every Price-point As watch enthusiasts, the only thing that’s better than a new watch, is getting a great deal on said new watch. Whether you’re looking to add something to an existing collection or start a new one, we’ve curated a selection of our top picks across multiple price points, and we’re super excited to share them with you. Regardless of price, these watches are packed full of features making them the perfect gift this holiday season! 5 Watches You Can’t Miss at Every Price-point As watch enthusiasts, the only thing that’s better than a new watch, is getting a great deal on said new watch. Whether you’re looking to add something to an existing collection or start a new one, we’ve curated a selection of our top picks across multiple price points, and we’re super excited to share them with you. Regardless of price, these watches are packed full of features making them the perfect gift this holiday season! The post 5 Super-Versatile and Value-Packed Watches at Every Price Point appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The brand that made a name for itself by making indestructible (and educational) watches for kids is letting adults in on the fun.The post Blok returns, and this time, it’s definitely not for kids appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Welcome back to our weekly Sunday Morning Showdown series. Every Sunday morning, two writers go head to head in a battle of the ages. Mike and Jorg will go at it this week with a pair of value-driven dive watches. Both are fairly recent releases from popular brands on the more affordable side of the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
This was a great week for independent watchmaking, where we had brands experimenting not just with colours but with case shapes, materials and techniques as well.The post New releases from Farer, Voutilanen, Louis Erard and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
After a re-entry into the world of watch enthusiasts, the AMIDA Digitrend-the iconic 1970s Swiss 'casquette' watch and now a GPHG 2024 'Petite Aiguille' nominee-is making a comeback. Revived in two fresh versions inspired by its late-70s origins, the Amida Digitrend can now be found in silver, black and gold models.
Time+Tide
Fans of Hamilton watches are grateful the brand made the Murph. But thanks are also owed to Harrison Ford and Conservation International.The post Did you know one of Hamilton’s most beloved watches is technically a Frankenstein? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Four GOATs of their respective sports have all been spotted wearing what could very well become the GOAT Rolex Daytona.The post CELEBRITY DEATHMATCH: Rolex Daytona Le Mans spotting – are you team white or yellow gold? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of new micro-brand news we’re following. This includes promising concepts, Kickstarter launches, restocks, and everything in between. Worn & Wound was founded over 10 years ago to support small independent companies and affordable micro-brands, and our passion for these brands remains strong. Here’s what has caught our attention this month. If you come across a project that qualifies for our roundup, please email us at info@wornandwound.com to be included. Houtman Watch Jason Liddell grew up in Western Australia and has always deeply appreciated the great outdoors. He is particularly fond of the iconic regions and landmarks in Western Australia, including the Murchison River and the Pilbara. Houtman Watches is named after the Houtman Abrolhos Islands, charted by the Dutch sailor Frederick de Houtman in 1619. The Houtman Abrolhos is the southernmost true coral reef system in the Indian Ocean and comprises a stunning chain of 122 islands along with their associated reefs. The first two series have been named after the rivers mentioned earlier, and their most recent collection is called the Murchison. This series showcases four dial and hand configurations, which include two field/dress watches, one field/sport watch, and one pilot watch. All these watches have a stainless steel case with a diameter of 40mm, a thickness of 11.5mm, and a length of 48mm from lug tip to lug tip. The interior width measure...
Hodinkee
Over three days in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the 2024 Heuer Collector's Summit brought together the brand's most ardent fans.
Monochrome
Swiss luxury powerhouse Richemont has just announced yet another round of shifts in top management positions, with new direction for two of its most prestigious watchmaking brands, Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger-Lecoultre. Effective January 1st, 2025, the nominations of Jerôme Lambert and Laurent Perves follow the appointments announced earlier this year. Nicolas Bos was promoted from […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko SSK GMT line has slowly taken the watch world by storm, and Seiko took the SKX-style format this year and updated it with a trio of new dial formats. Earlier this year, I wrote a story on what – at the time – was every single existing SKX-style Seiko SSK GMT on the market, but that story is officially out of date. Before I get any further into this, it makes sense to establish a few things about these watches. First, they were released in 2022, creating a new wave of GMT affordability in the watch world. Why do I keep calling them SKX-style watches? Well, because the case profile is nearly identical to that of the now-discontinued icon, the Seiko SKX. The Seiko SSK001 and 003 models (the blue- and black-dial versions) are watches that I often suggest to anyone looking for a true "everyday" attainable watch. I even chose it in a video I did with Teddy where we both were tasked with building a collection under $7,000 ( let me know if you think I won). But enough lede-burying. Let’s get to the newness. In total there were three new variations released: The SSK033 with a blue and black bezel, the SSK035 with a green dial and bezel format, and the SSK036, which brings a black/brown aesthetic to the mix with a leather strap (the other two come on Jubilee-style bracelets). So let’s start with the SSK033. As an owner of the Rolex GMT-Master II with the blue-and-black bezel, I immediately zeroed in on this one. But where this clearly differs from the Rolex in term...
Time+Tide
Having branched out from producing watches exclusively for military units, Micromilspec is now ready to take on civilian life.The post Understanding Micromilspec: an interview with CEO Henrik Rye appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! After last week’s list of GPHG winners, we return to the universe of vintage Rolex. Why? As we were browsing for entries for previous lists, we stumbled upon some amazing Rolex watches that you rarely see. This list, therefore, praises some of the Genevan brand’s less highlighted watches from the past. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Vintage Rolex Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It’s finally Black Friday, and we’re in full swing here at the Windup Watch Shop. There’s no better time to save with nearly the entire shop featuring discounts, including some products that never go on sale. Best of all, with each purchase you make, you’re eligible to earn 5 Points on every dollar spent. It’s finally Black Friday, and we’re in full swing here at the Windup Watch Shop. There’s no better time to save with nearly the entire shop featuring discounts, including some products that never go on sale. Best of all, with each purchase you make, you’re eligible to earn 5 Points on every dollar spent. The post Deep Discounts, A Free Watch Case, And More Ways To Save appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
In an unexpected twist, Jérôme Lambert will return to the top job at Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC), some 11 years after he left the same role. Mr Lambert’s first spell as chief executive of JLC, which lasted from 2002 to 2013, was a major success. During the 11 years, the brand developed into a contender in haute horlogerie while maintaining its affordable appeal in simpler watches. He then moved on to run Montblanc for almost four years until early 2017, before rising to a series of senior jobs in Richemont, the luxury group that owns JLC. In 2018 Mr Lambert was named chief executive of the group, but in June 2024 he was reassigned. Mr Lambert became chief operating officer, while Nicolas Bos succeeded him as chief executive. In some ways, Mr Lambert is a JLC lifer – he began his professional career in 1996 in the finance department of JLC. When he was tapped to lead JLC in 2002, he was one of the youngest chief executives in watchmaking. The two chief executives who ran JLC after Mr Lambert never quite led the brand to the same heights, so many will be hoping his comeback also signals a return to earlier glory.
SJX Watches
As Vacheron Constantin gears up to mark its 270th anniversary in 2025, the brand has just announced Laurent Perves will assume the top job at the start of the new year. Having been the Chief Commercial Officer since 2022, Mr Perves succeeds Louis Ferla, who is now in charge of Cartier. Mr Perves is well positioned to lead the storied Geneva brand into its next chapter, having held management roles in the key departments of the manufacture, namely marketing, communications, and commercial. Although he began his career in fragrances, where he rose to senior roles in Proctor & Gamble, Mr Perves started in the watch industry a decade ago. He joined Audemars Piguet in 2014 as head of communications, before being tapped to become the chief marketing officer at Vacheron Constantin in 2016. Since 2022 he was the number two at Vacheron Constantin as chief commercial officer, where he oversaw the brand’s commercial strategy but also built relationships with key clients and collectors in general. Despite the high bar set by the Berkley pocket watch – the most complicated watch ever – Mr Perves and his team have put together an impressive lineup of products for the brand’s 270th anniversary, which will be debuted progressively over the next year.
SJX Watches
Having stepped in to acquire Brodbeck Guillochage in 2022, Voutilainen has announced the opening of a new, larger facility in Fleurier that is poised to become a new centre of excellence for guilloché. Retaining the name Brodbeck Guillochage in honour of its founder Georges Brodbeck, the new facility is located in what was once the local watchmaking school of Fleurier, the town adjacent to Voutilainen’s hilltop headquarters at Chapeau de Napoléon. The new home of Brodbeck Guillochage in Fleurier Initial thoughts This is welcome news for a number of reasons. First, it will help perpetuate the legacy of Mr. Brodbeck, ensuring that his life’s work will continue to have a positive impact watchmakers and lovers of fine objects for years to come. Second, the steady hand of Kari Voutilainen, whose accomplishments as an entrepreneur rival his skills as a watchmaker, should help the new enterprise navigate potential industry downturns in the future. Finally, the impressive scale of the operation should be a magnet for talent, improving the economic prospects for young artisans interested in guilloché. A new centre of excellence A self-taught guillocheur, Mr Brodbeck founded his eponymous firm in 2004, gradually building up a stock of more than 30 antique engine turning machines, each restored to working order by Mr Brodbeck himself. In 2023, Mr Brodbeck was awarded the Prix Gaïa, arguably the highest award in the Swiss watch industry, for his contributions to the preservati...
Time+Tide
"Congrats to all the watch nerds. You beat me."The post Dave Portnoy admits defeat, announces fire sale for Brick Watch Company, blaming “watch geeks” for its demise appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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