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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Mar 25, 2022

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

Last summer Tudor introduced several Black Bay variants such as the Fifty-Eight 925 and METAS-certified Ceramic. Though one of the most affordable amongst the year’s new launches, the most unique was arguably the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze. While bronze is not a new material for Tudor – the brand has unveiled several bronze dive watches in the past – it’s a first for the compact Black Bay Fifty-Eight (BB58) and also the first instance of a bronze bracelet. Given the popularity of the standard Fifty-Eight in steel, it leads to the obvious question: is the Fifty-Eight in bronze interesting enough to differentiate itself from its predecessors? Initial thoughts With the original BB58 has proven itself a winner, it is logical that Tudor builds on its success with a new palette, case material, and even minor improvements to the case construction. Though it is a Fifty-Eight in name, the Bronze is a very different watch. For starters, it is the first Tudor dive watch with a bracelet that isn’t steel. More usefully, the bronze bracelet incorporates a newly-developed, micro-adjustment clasp for easy sizing on the fly. While bronze isn’t rare amongst dive watches in general, it is unusual for Tudor, so credit should be given to the brand for its choice of case material. Tudor doubles down on the material by taking the bold step of using bronze not just for the case but also the bracelet, making this one of the few watches with a bracelet in the metal. Bronze is popular ...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In Miami with Maurice Lacroix, MoonSwatch mania, and W&W; excitement! Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix MoonSwatch mania Mar 25, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In Miami with Maurice Lacroix, MoonSwatch mania, and W&W; excitement!

It’s been an eventful week so let’s get right into it. To kick things off, I spent the weekend with Maurice Lacroix down in Miami to celebrate the launch of their latest evolution of the Aikon: the Aikon #tide. The Aikon #tide is both a playful and principled release, a colourful daily wearer with an … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In Miami with Maurice Lacroix, MoonSwatch mania, and W&W; excitement! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

John-Mikaël Flaux Introduces an Automaton Jumping Hour Inspired by a 12th Century Clock SJX Watches
Mar 24, 2022

John-Mikaël Flaux Introduces an Automaton Jumping Hour Inspired by a 12th Century Clock

A member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), John-Mikaël Flaux is no stranger to automata and clocks. His most recent creation however, is something smaller and wearable – an automata wristwatch, the Homage to Al-Jazari. The watch pays tribute to the Elephant Clock, a fascinating and exotic timekeeper conceived by the 12th century inventor and mathematician, Ismail al-Jazari. While not an exact replica of the original – the ancient clock was powered by water and gravity – Mr Flaux’s creation artfully captures the theme of the clock with a jumping half-hour automata and an equivalent 24-hour day night indicator, complemented by miniature painting on the front and back. Initial Thoughts The Homage to Al-Jazari is undeniably intriguing, both mechanically and visually. The watch has a brave design that is striking. The complexity of the dial means legibility isn’t the best, or even decent, but that’s besides the point. While its key complication, a jumping half-hour mechanism, is not technically complex, the integration of the thematic elements into a cohesive display modelled on the ancient clock means the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. In other words, the Homage to Al-Jazari lives up to its name. But it is also a missed opportunity. The jumping automata display would have been perfect if paired with a simple chiming function, though that would’ve significantly increased the complexity, due to the requirement of a base ...

Seiko Debuts Prospex Dive Watches with “Glacial Ice” Dials SJX Watches
Seiko Debuts Prospex Dive Watches Mar 21, 2022

Seiko Debuts Prospex Dive Watches with “Glacial Ice” Dials

Sticking to a tried-and-tested formula, Seiko has united a trio of its bestselling dive watches into a thematic collection. This year’s offering is the Prospex Save the Ocean Special Editions, a trio of dive watches (the refs. SPB297, SPB299, and SPB301) featuring textured dials modelled on the surface of polar ice. As with past Save the Ocean editions, part of the proceeds from the sale of the new models will be donated to ocean conservation organisations. Initial thoughts Easy to like because of their vintage-inspired style and affordability, Seiko’s “Modern Re-interpretation” dive watches have just gotten better with the new trio, thanks to interesting, textured dials in pleasing colours. Even amongst the countless iterations of the same models, the new arrivals still manage to distinguish themselves, especially the models in light blue and white, both uncommon colours for dive watches. Interestingly, the new watches might look identical to past versions save for the dials, but they are not. All three feature steel cases that have a “super-hard coating”, which was absent in earlier models, explaining why the new models cost more than last year’s military-style special editions. While Seiko’s schedule of frequent new launches are a little tedious to keep up with, the proliferation of such watches is probably justified, simply because they are mass produced and affordable, making them easily accessible for almost anyone. As such, new versions in co...

MB&F; Legacy Machines: 10th Anniversary Retrospective And LMX – Reprise Quill & Pad
MB&F; Mar 19, 2022

MB&F; Legacy Machines: 10th Anniversary Retrospective And LMX – Reprise

In 2021 MB&F; celebrated the tenth anniversary of the Legacy Machine collection and, fittingly, introduced a brand-new model to mark this milestone. While that watch is definitely increditastic, Joshua Munchow takes us on a journey through all the models, looking at key points and how the concept has evolved over the years before ending up with MB&F;'s piece for the anniversary, LMX.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers and Greubel Forsey Time+Tide
Greubel Forsey There has been Mar 18, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers and Greubel Forsey

There has been a lot to cover of late and leading up to Watches & Wonders Geneva there is plenty more on the horizon. So today I want to highlight two new Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers that recently launched, as well as the new Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe that launched earlier today. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers and Greubel Forsey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k, now it’s over €100k Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k Mar 16, 2022

This Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k, now it’s over €100k

Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the first generation A. Lange & Söhne Datograph watches, and whether or not they are seriously undervalued today. Today we are going to dive into … ContinuedThe post This Girard-Perregaux Laureato traded below €40k, now it’s over €100k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Five new Tissot PRX 35mm pieces get a bold new look Time+Tide
Tissot PRX 35mm pieces get Mar 15, 2022

INTRODUCING: Five new Tissot PRX 35mm pieces get a bold new look

The words “Tissot PRX” have crossed my lips on many occasions over the past year or so since its release, mostly in the context of discussing watches that represent fantastic value. Yet despite its 40mm size and compact lug-to-lug, the non-articulating first link caused some small-wristed wearers to look for other options. But the fantastic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Five new Tissot PRX 35mm pieces get a bold new look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Mar 14, 2022

Hands-On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum

A surprising combination of mechanics and electronics, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum is the latest watch to emerge from La Fabrique du Temps, the manufacture acquired by luxury giant in 2011. The Quantum is a new take on the brand’s signature complication – a hidden LED ring lights up the 12 cubes of the jumping hours. Initial thoughts The Spin Time is an original and distinctive concept that doesn’t get recognition it should, largely due to the fact that Louis Vuitton is all about fashion and leather goods. And the complication took more than a decade to mature into what it is. The Spin Time was launched in 2009 as a regatta countdown, which wasn’t especially interesting (while also being expensive at the time). It was only with the Spin Time Air that the complication became truly noteworthy, but the length of time required to get there meant some momentum was lost. I like the complication, though it is also hindered by the modest base movement (more on that below). Basically a Spin Time Air with a dose of levity, the Quantum doesn’t take itself too seriously, but preserves all the mechanics of the Spin Time complication. It’s a smart take on the light-up mechanical watch, the first one that manages a long-lasting bright light. Though the aesthetic is largely two colours, it is a loud design, especially with the oversized “LV” on the dial. But that is exactly the point, and I do like the over the top nature of many of Louis Vuitton’s ...

Penfolds Bin 60A 1962: Australia’s Greatest Wine Ever (Or Certainly A Serious Contender) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Mar 12, 2022

Penfolds Bin 60A 1962: Australia’s Greatest Wine Ever (Or Certainly A Serious Contender) – Reprise

Best Australian wine of all time? There are a few options, but for Ken Gargett there's a clear winner: Penfolds Bin 60A 1962, a wine that was never commercially released. And whether the Bin 60A 1962 is indeed the GOAT of Australian wine hardly matters. He does suggest, though, that if the opportunity to try it ever comes up, cross oceans to do so. You’ll never regret it.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Spending time with Jean Rousseau and brunch with Norqain Time+Tide
Norqain I have been saying Mar 11, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Spending time with Jean Rousseau and brunch with Norqain

I have been saying for a while that I needed to look into Jean Rousseau straps for my own watches, so when the NYC Watch Crew enthusiast and collector group pinged me, letting me know the next meet up would be at the Jean Rousseau boutique, I was immediately excited. Jean Rousseau are known for fabricating … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Spending time with Jean Rousseau and brunch with Norqain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ineichen Auction ‘La Vie en Rose’ On March 12, 2022: 6 Unusual Picks From 40 Pink Gold Timepieces Quill & Pad
Mar 9, 2022

Ineichen Auction ‘La Vie en Rose’ On March 12, 2022: 6 Unusual Picks From 40 Pink Gold Timepieces

Ineichen Auctioneers’ first auction of 2022, aptly entitled “La Vie en Rose,” takes place in Zurich and online on March 12, 2022. As the name of this auction professes, all 40 of the watches offered are encased in pink – “rose” – gold. Here, Elizabeth Doerr highlights five of the less “mainstream” independent offerings and one rarity from an established brand that will certainly interest connoisseurs.