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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Grand Seiko Watches Of All Time Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Feb 20, 2025

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Grand Seiko Watches Of All Time

Choosing a favorite Grand Seiko was bound to be one of the more difficult prompts we could give to the Teddy editorial team. One of the most beloved watch brands out there, Grand Seiko has been around since 1960 but only began distributing internationally in 2010 and didn’t become a truly independent brand until 2017. Old-timers will recall the days when it was truly difficult to get your hands on what is now the Japanese luxury watch giant. Ironically the SBGA211, aka the "Snowflake," didn’t make the list here, which actually says a lot about the sheer volume of excellent pieces Grand Seiko has released over the years. So let us get to our editors’ picks for their favorite Grand Seiko of all time and, as usual, make sure to share your own pick. Oh, and for the first time since we started doing these editors' picks, two team members individually landed on the same watch... Mark Bernardo: Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition Unlike many other choices for these Editor’s Picks lists, my favorite Grand Seiko timepiece was relatively easy to identify - because it is the watch with the most intriguing backstory as well as the type of pop-cultural, collaborative piece that the luxury brand is unlikely to ever make again. The Grand Seiko Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition, released in 2019, commemorated a pair of seemingly unrelated anniversaries that occurred that year: 65 years since the release of the original, iconic Godzilla movie by Toho Ltd. in 1954, a...

Hublot Debuts Multi-Colour Ceramic in Watches SJX Watches
Hublot Debuts Multi-Colour Ceramic Feb 20, 2025

Hublot Debuts Multi-Colour Ceramic in Watches

Hublot has taken the covers off the Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic, which the brand says is the world’s first timepiece to incorporate multi-coloured ceramic. While the case is fashioned from black ceramic, the standout feature is a bezel crafted in grey and blue ceramic, or more specifically, a dark grey ceramic base spotted with blue circles. Though the technical details of the two-colour ceramic are scarce at the moment – the patent is still pending according to Hublot – it appears the unique characteristic of the material lies in the fact that it is ceramic that has been coloured with two distinct pigments, as opposed to a single colour ceramic with an additional colour added. Initial thoughts For all of the criticism levelled at Hublot, the brand undeniably does well in materials innovation. Amongst its proprietary materials is Magic Gold, a gold-ceramic composite that was the first scratch-proof 18k yellow gold alloy. The Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic underscores this focus on materials. Granted, the watch isn’t for everyone. I find the weird, spotty bezel unappealing, but the potential of the material and technology behind it is certainly interesting, especially if applied in a more stylish manner. The material is likely still experimental, since the new Big Bang is a limited edition of just 20 pieces with a hefty price tag of US$33,000, so it might take some time to see it deployed on a wider basis beyond the bezel. Magic Ceramic Apart from the bezel, the new ...

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Vintage Rolex Datejust Offerings I Can’t Refuse Fratello
Rolex Datejust Offerings I Can’t Feb 20, 2025

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Vintage Rolex Datejust Offerings I Can’t Refuse

It has been a few years since I wrote The Vintage Rolex Datejust Buyer’s & Collector’s Guide. In fact, I no longer sell the book, and it is a closed chapter of my life. Still, the mighty DJ remains a major soft spot for me. So when Nacho asked me to write a Pre-Owned Spotlight […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Vintage Rolex Datejust Offerings I Can’t Refuse to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Don’t Let Money Stop You From Enjoying Watches Fratello
Feb 20, 2025

Fratello Talks: Don’t Let Money Stop You From Enjoying Watches

In this week’s episode of Fratello Talks, we’re making a public service announcement: don’t let money stop you from enjoying watches! This topic is close to our hearts and has come up more than once at Fratello HQ lately. So today Nacho, Lex, and Thomas gather around the microphones and hash out their thoughts on […] Visit Fratello Talks: Don’t Let Money Stop You From Enjoying Watches to read the full article.

Frederique Constant Partners with Watch Angels on a Revamped Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Partners Feb 19, 2025

Frederique Constant Partners with Watch Angels on a Revamped Worldtimer

Over the last several years we’ve seen all kinds of models pop up for the creation and distribution of limited edition watches. It’s becoming more and more clear that this most recent period in watch enthusiast history will almost certainly be known as the “Limited Edition Boom,” or something along those lines. Look at the pages of any watch media website, including this one, and you’ll find that news items about various LEs and collaborations dominate the conversation, so it’s no wonder that a cottage industry has sprung up to develop these kinds of watches specifically. Watch Angels is one such platform seeking to provide an ecosystem for brands (mostly independent) to create limited edition versions of watches that are funded by the eventual purchasers. It’s like the old souscription model crossed with Kickstater, with the main difference between Watch Angels and typical crowdfunding mechanisms being that these projects are largely one-offs from already established brands, and not debut collections from a start-up enterprise.  Frederique Constant, certainly not a brand most observers would expect to dabble in a crowdfunding project, is the latest to partner with Watch Angels on a new limited edition release. The Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture seen here is a new and slightly more refined spin on a signature Frederique Constant complication. They’ve been making some version of this watch since 2012 (remember their 10th anniversary worldtimer t...

Introducing: REM Firenze Legends Straps Fratello
Panerai owner was changing straps Feb 19, 2025

Introducing: REM Firenze Legends Straps

One of the things I loved best about being a Panerai owner was changing straps regularly. By swapping their “shoes,” the look of the Panerai watches drastically changed. Unfortunately, REM Straps did not exist at the time. We got to know the folks at the company very well during our partnership on Speedmaster straps. Quality […] Visit Introducing: REM Firenze Legends Straps to read the full article.

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery SJX Watches
Richard Mille Feb 18, 2025

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery

IWC gives its exceptionally shock resistant – and strikingly expensive – aviator’s watch a new look. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff is dressed in the black and green livery of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team that’s sponsored by IWC and led by Austrian auto entrepreneur Toto Wolff. Although largely unchanged from the original version, the Toto Wolff edition features a stamped, grained dial with a cleaner aesthetic and open-worked hands. And the BMG shock-absorbing spring that rings the movement is coated in Petronas green Super-LumiNova for maximum visual effect. Initial thoughts Despite its (very) limited commercial success, the original Big Pilot XPL is an interesting example of horological engineering. While its considerable price tag was debatable, the technology inside was novel and exemplifies IWC’s historical focus on engineering. The new iteration is hardly revolutionary since it’s merely a cosmetic makeover, but it does bring a new aesthetics that might give the watch a bigger audience, especially with the high profile of Formula 1 and Toto Wolff himself thanks to the Netflix series about the sport. The new Toto Wolff edition is priced at US$102,000, comparable to the first version and steep for a time-only watch, especially so for an IWC. However, seen another way, the price is perhaps competitive since the another brand that has long emphasised shock resistance and Formula 1 is Richard Mille, and any of its watches is...

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces a New Tonda PF in Platinum Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces Feb 18, 2025

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces a New Tonda PF in Platinum

Among higher end Swiss watch brands, few have experienced a greater turnaround, at least on the surface, over the past several years than Parmigiani Fleurier. Parmigiani has always been a brand that knowledgable collectors and enthusiasts have praised and found a great deal of value in, but the brand itself didn’t always seem healthy. Before Guido Terreni took over in 2021, it would have been quite common to find heavily discounted Parmigianis on the gray market – a common symptom of overproducing too many references and not being able to find your core customer. Under Terreni, the brand’s output has been streamlined and everything just seems more thought through. And while I don’t have insight into sales statistics, you certainly don’t see the brand’s current catalog selling for closeout prices on the discount sites, a sign that they’ve got production under control, at the very least.  One of the brand’s biggest gambits has been the exploring the integrated bracelet sports watch market with the Tonda PF collection. Launched at a time when every luxury brand was throwing their hat in the ring in this particular category, Parmigiani has sought to differentiate itself from competitors in the luxury integrated bracelet sports watch world by leaning into the luxury angle, and perhaps a little away from the sport. Inspired by a “sartorial approach” to watch design, the Tonda PF is all about feel, texture, and proportions in a manner similar to a bespoke sui...

Fratello On Air: Discussing Vintage Chronographs - Part 2 Fratello
Feb 18, 2025

Fratello On Air: Discussing Vintage Chronographs - Part 2

Welcome back to Fratello On Air! This week, we tackle the second half of our discussion on vintage chronographs. We get into the weeds in this episode, so we hope you like it nerdy! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Last week, we kicked off this […] Visit Fratello On Air: Discussing Vintage Chronographs - Part 2 to read the full article.

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Goes Upmarket with Ceramic and Gemstones SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Tambour Goes Upmarket Feb 17, 2025

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Goes Upmarket with Ceramic and Gemstones

During the recent LVMH Watch Week, Louis Vuitton revealed new, luxe variants of its Tambour (alongside the unexpected Convergence). Originally launched in relatively conservative guises, the slim sports watch now gets more interesting – and pricey – with the use of ceramic and gemstones. A nod to the brand’s monogram canvas, the Tambour Ceramic is a mix of brushed brown ceramic and 18k pink gold. And the pair of “High End” models is made up of the Tambour Platinum Rainbow sporting sapphires and rubies (pictured above), and the Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx that’s set with orange sapphires. The Tambour Ceramic Initial thoughts I like the Tambour because it’s an appealing design that wears notably well. The thin case sits flat on the wrist and the feel is elegant. Though the styling is more subtle than earlier versions of the Tambour, most of which were large and chunky, the new Tambour is still a recognisable design that retains elements of the drum-like originals. The new versions are appealing for the same reason, but upgraded in terms of materials. There’s nothing to complain about, except the cost. The ceramic model is €75,000 while the platinum “rainbow” is €150,000 – fair relative to the market but still hefty. These are on par with equivalent watches from comparable brands, and the small number made help rationalise the numbers. The Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx is a limited edition of just 30 However, the new Tambour models share the same LFT023.01 f...

Louis Vuitton Introduces A Trio Of Tambour Watches Fratello
Louis Vuitton Introduces Feb 17, 2025

Louis Vuitton Introduces A Trio Of Tambour Watches

Since its launch in 2023, the redesigned Louis Vuitton Tambour has led a watchmaking renaissance for a marque best known for its handbags and trunks. The iconic Parisian fashion house isn’t new to watches, but the focus on upscale pieces that compete with traditional watchmakers began in 2011 with the purchase of La Fabrique du […] Visit Louis Vuitton Introduces A Trio Of Tambour Watches to read the full article.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Baltic Feb 16, 2025

A Week in Watches Ep. 99: Grand Seiko, Baltic, and More!

On Episode 99 of A Week in Watches, Zach takes us through a few new releases and ends on a brand-obit. First up are a few new models from Grand Seiko that, shocker, are inspired by nature. Next is a look at a new take on the Hermétique sport/field watch by Baltic with added functionality. After, it’s over to Germany to check out the new and very impressive watches by Jochen Benzinger. Finally, it’s time to bid farewell to Carl F. Bucherer. The DIY Watch Club sponsors this episode of A Week in Watches. Building a watch will elevate your appreciation for timepieces. Perfect bezel alignment? Blued steel hands? Mind-blowing lume? With DIY Watch Club, you get to experience the craftsmanship firsthand and gain a whole new level of appreciation for your watches. Learn more here The post A Week in Watches Ep. 99: Grand Seiko, Baltic, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Fratello
Chopard L.U.C XPS Good morning Feb 16, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS

Good morning, dear Fratelli. It’s Sunday again, which means we’re pitting two watches against each other. This week, Daan defends the recently released Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026. In the other corner, it’s Thomas with the Chopard L.U.C XPS ref. 61948-5001. That’s right; after the battle of the integrated-bracelet sports watches last week, get […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS to read the full article.