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Balance Wheel

The oscillating wheel at the heart of every mechanical watch.

Zenith’s 1/100th Second Chronograph Inlaid with Tiger’s Eye SJX Watches
Zenith s 1/100th Second Chronograph Dec 10, 2024

Zenith’s 1/100th Second Chronograph Inlaid with Tiger’s Eye

Zenith has given its 1/100th-of-a-second El Primero 21 an unusual attire – pusher protectors and a dodecagonal bezel in tiger’s eye mineral stone. Matched with a dial featuring tiger stripes and green accents, the Defy Extreme Jungle retains the trademark double balance wheels of the model. The movement features a conventional timekeeping balance operating at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz), and a smaller regulator for the chronograph that beats 10 times as fast, 360,000 beats per hour or 50 Hz, enabling the chronograph to record times with a resolution of up to to 1/100th of a second. Initial thoughts I have long thought that the Defy Extreme was too similar to other, more famous oversized sports chronographs, that is, until I actually got to try on the Defy Extreme Jungle in person. The new Defy still evokes other designs, but it is finely executed, with the minerals stone inlay being notably well done. At the same time, the tiger’s eye elements add some originality to the design, so this easily stands out as the most interesting model in the Defy line. The tiger’s eye components, especially since they are prominently positioned, are likely more fragile than the same on the equivalent titanium model, but they add texture and colour so are arguably worth the sacrifice of practicality. At US$26,900, the Defy Extreme Jungle is pricier than the average Zenith chronograph, but still a reasonable proposition given the exotic material and 1/100th of a second movement. Tige...

Voutilainen Gives the KV20i Reversed a Cherry Facelift SJX Watches
Voutilainen Nov 18, 2024

Voutilainen Gives the KV20i Reversed a Cherry Facelift

Although the Voutilainen style is rooted in tradition, sometimes it encompasses less-than-conservative watches, like the Voutilainen KV20i Reversed Cherry, a colourful variant of the brand’s signature inverted-movement model. Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected contemporary independent watchmakers - and for good reason. He has struck a perfect balance between the artisanal aspects of horology with enough business acumen to guarantee him absolute creative liberty and longevity. Despite his success, Mr Voutilainen didn’t scale up his namesake brand, instead choosing to continue making small-run timepieces. While the KV20i Reversed Cherry is not a limited edition, only a handful will be made, as is typical of the brand. Initial thoughts The Vingt-8 Reversed is a staple of the Voutilainen collection, having started five years ago with the 28TI – short for “Titanium Inverse”. An evolution of the Inverse, the KV20i Reversed is remarkably similar, although much has changed in terms of details. Voutilainen wristwatches are characterised by two key traits: impeccable movements and hand-made guilloche dials sporting deep and rich patterns. The Reversed puts the former in the front, taking the place of the dial, while guilloche is concealed on the back.  While a guilloché front dial will surely be missed, the visible mechanics more than compensate. The latest incarnation of Voutilainen’s in-house cal. 28 reverses the construction, which required a number ...

First Look - The New Nomos Orion Neomatik and Tangente Neomatik Doré Editions Monochrome
Nomos Orion Neomatik Oct 17, 2024

First Look - The New Nomos Orion Neomatik and Tangente Neomatik Doré Editions

Sometimes, you don’t necessarily need to reinvent the wheel to make something appealing. Sometimes, a simple twist can result in an appealing new version of a known watch. Sometimes, keeping things classic is the best. Well, this is exactly what Nomos, the Glashutte-based watchmaker with a Bauhaus twist, has decided to do by introducing two […]

Introducing - The Racetrack-Ready Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Monochrome
Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Oct 16, 2024

Introducing - The Racetrack-Ready Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads

Launched in 2018, the Faubourg de Cracovie was Czapek’s third model and first chronograph, powered by Vaucher’s sophisticated high-frequency column-wheel movement. Maintaining the brand’s spirit of modern classicism, the 41.5mm chronograph defied the canon of most sporty stopwatches by flaunting traditional guilloché dials. This autumn, Czapek releases two iterations of its chronograph with a racing-style […]

REVIEW: Hands On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver WatchAdvice
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Oct 3, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver

We go hands-on with the newly released Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch to see how heritage and tradition meet modern-day needs! What We Love: The textured dial and 3D markers add depth to the watch High legibility making time reading easy The easy-wearing ergonomic design What We Don’t: The bracelet clasp design is still lacking in finesse Crown placement at not quite 4 o’clock seems off-balance The closed caseback hides what would be a nice-looking movement inside Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Seiko has been on a bit of a walk down memory lane with many of their releases this year, looking back at the old vintage models from the 1960s and ’70s as inspiration and reviving some of these pieces for modern-day customers. It seems that this is a little bit of a trend currently, and has accelerated over the last few years with people looking for different pieces to place on their wrists. Many brands in the watch world have gone down this path, and it does make for some great vintage homage or revival pieces and a slight break away from the norm. Seiko has some great heritage pieces, and with their latest release, Seiko has gone back over 50 years to 1968, just three years after their very first dive watch and re-incarnated it in 2024 in the form of the Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver, with a black dial and white dial variant to choose from. First Impressions We had ...

The King Seiko “KSK” Line Grows Once Again, with Three New References Worn & Wound
Seiko KSK” Line Grows Once Sep 23, 2024

The King Seiko “KSK” Line Grows Once Again, with Three New References

When it comes to mastering the balance between refinement and artistry, does anyone do it better than Japanese watchmakers? King Seiko’s latest additions to the KSK line-up just proved my point. These three new references – the latest from the recently reintroduced Seiko spin-off brand – are inspired by the company’s roots in Kameido, Tokyo and show not only the beauty of the region, but speak to King Seiko’s history and technical precision. Each dial is something truly unique, bringing traditional Japanese patterns with color gradients. First on the list is SJE103, which takes the deep red of regional plums and turns it into a sanguine interpretation against the dial. SJE107 is a bit more subdued, with a purple gradient and a wisteria-brand pattern that’s subtle (some motifs of nature can be a little too on-the-nose, in my opinion, but this one balances between inspiration and interpretation well). And finally, my favorite, is SJE105, which has a turtle shell pattern and a rich blue dial, inspired by the local Sumida River in Kameido. Each watch runs on Seiko’s Caliber 6L35 automatic movement, offering a 45-hour power reserve. All references measure in at 38.6mm and are crafted from stainless steel with a matching bracelet, making for a dressy option that I think fits the motifs of the dial perfectly. Like other KSK references, these watches recall classic King Seiko case lines that will certainly appeal to vintage watch aficionados. They also serve as a rem...

REVIEW: Hands-On With Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 Sep 20, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770

The Riviera 10770: Baume & Mercier’s Perfect Balance of Form and Function is now met with a brilliant emerald-green dial! What We Love: Exceptional dial design The movement offers a 5-day power reserve A smaller and slimmer case makes it more versatile. What We Don’t: The bracelet design is too plain for Riviera’s case finishing and dial design Lack of micro-adjustment on bracelet. Lack of colour options for secondary strap options (to colour match with the dial) Overall Rating: 8.95/10 Value for Money: 9.3/10 Wearability: 8.75/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.75/10 Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier, as a watchmaker, has long been known to have a deep-rooted passion for horology, reflected through their timepeices that show elegance and precision. Brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume founded Baume & Mercier, and the brand quickly found itself on the international stage with a reputation for creating watches of exceptional quality, earning them numerous awards for precision at international exhibitions. In 1918, Baume & Mercier further solidified its “luxury image” by bringing in Paul Mercier as a partner. Paul Mercier brought a modern vision to the brand, leaning more towards aesthetic innovation while still upholding the brand’s technical excellence. This philosophy of Paul Mercier laid the groundwork for future Baume & Mercier collections! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Baume & Mercier (@baumeetmercier) All-new Baume & Mercier Riviera 10...

First Look - The Very Red, Very Handsome Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry Monochrome
Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry Schwarz Etienne Sep 17, 2024

First Look - The Very Red, Very Handsome Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry

Schwarz Etienne, established in 1902, has a rich history as a movement and components supplier. Today, the brand stands out as one of the few manufacturers that produces its balance wheels and hairsprings. In recent years, Schwarz Etienne has also produced watches under its name, blending original designs with traditional craftsmanship. Noteworthy releases include the […]

Norqain Introduces Flagship Skeleton Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Longines both Sep 16, 2024

Norqain Introduces Flagship Skeleton Flyback Chronograph

The Independence Skeleton Chrono is the latest from Norqain, the maker of affordable sports watches. Available in stainless steel or DLC-coated titanium, the Independence Skeleton Chrono is equipped with a new movement, the “8K Manufacture Calibre (NK24/1)”. Developed in partnership with AMT, the NK24/1 is based on the architecture of the Sellita SW500 but upgraded in several ways, including a flyback function and a column wheel to replace the customary cam. Initial thoughts The Independence chronograph is now Norqain’s top-of-the-line offering, so it costs substantially more than the brand’s prior chronograph models. Still, the Independence arguably offers a similar value proposition as past Norqain models because while it’s more expensive, it is more watch. The case has more detail and the movement is more customised for the model. The NK24/1 is a new development but clearly based on the Sellita SW500, but with enough upgrades for the price point. However, the NK24/1 is still as thick as a Sellita SW500, so the Independence is chunky and almost 14 mm high. The Independence is priced at US$6,490 on a steel bracelet, and a bit more in titanium. The value proposition is good, but not quite great. While the execution of the Independence is as good as, or even a bit better, than many of its peers in the price segment, it can’t quite reach the value proposition of the leaders in the segment, namely Tudor and Longines, both of which enjoy economies of scale practica...

REVIEW: Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Silver Panda! WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Silver Panda! Combining Sep 13, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Silver Panda!

Combining classic racing heritage with modern silver charm, I go hands-on with TAG Heuer’s latest offering in their Carrera Glassbox range! What We Love: Glassbox sapphire crystal design Sunray brushed dial Multiple little details that make the watch stand out What We Don’t: The bracelet design feels too standard for a watch of this calibre The date wheel could be better colour-matched to the dial to blend in more seamlessly. Lack of micro-adjustment on the bracelet Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Ever since the Carrera line was first introduced into the world of horology, with the Heuer Carrera released in 1963, it has been a symbol of precision and racing heritage. When it comes to the world of luxury timepieces, very few designs boast a balance of history, style, and racing inspiration quite like the TAG Heuer Carrera. Before we dive into the review of one of TAG Heuer’s latest offerings of the Carrera this year, it’s essential to understand one of the leading design features of this timepiece: the glassbox. While the glassbox design is one that came about recently from the brand, it does have a deep-rooted history that stretches all the way back to the original 1963 Carrera Chronograph timepiece. View this post on Instagram A post shared by TAG Heuer (@tagheuer) 1963 is arguably one of the most historic years for TAG Heuer, as this is when Jack Heuer introduced the Carrera, an entirely new st...

#TBT A Triangular Unicorn Dulux Curvimetre Finally Landed Fratello
Sep 12, 2024

#TBT A Triangular Unicorn Dulux Curvimetre Finally Landed

An opisometer is a small instrument with a tiny gear wheel integrated into its edge that you run along a surface to measure the length of curved lines on topographic maps, charts, schemes, and plans. It’s also called a map measurer, meilograph, or curvimeter, and believe it or not, someone made it into a watch […] Visit #TBT A Triangular Unicorn Dulux Curvimetre Finally Landed to read the full article.

Hands-on - The New Lederer Three-times Certified Observatory Chronometer Monochrome
Breguet s natural escapement Sep 9, 2024

Hands-on - The New Lederer Three-times Certified Observatory Chronometer

Independent watchmaker and proper horologist Bernhard Lederer has once again captured the spotlight in recent years, with the horological community admiring and discussing his Central Impulse Chronometer series. This collection of wristwatches features a unique movement designed by Lederer, regulated by a high-accuracy escapement inspired by Breguet’s natural escapement and George Daniels’ independent two-wheel, dual-impulse […]

Grand Seiko Recreates 45GS with Calibre 9SA4 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Recreates 45GS Sep 9, 2024

Grand Seiko Recreates 45GS with Calibre 9SA4

Having unveiled the top-of-the-line 9SA4 movement earlier this year, Grand Seiko has now installed the new calibre in a pair of vintage remakes, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation SLGW004 and SLGW005. A limited edition in either steel or 18k yellow gold, the 45GS Re-creation is one of Grand Seiko’s few vintage reissues with its latest-generation calibre that boasts a high-frequency balance and Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. Initial thoughts This is Grand Seiko’s first remake of the 45GS, but if the new pair look familiar, that’s because Grand Seiko launched a 44GS remake in 2013. Though the 44GS and 45GS are different models launched just a year apart in the late 1960s, they were different models. The 45GS was an upgrade over the 44GS in terms of the movement, though it retained similar styling. In the same manner, the modern-day remakes are most notable for having different movements. Amongst Grand Seiko’s many remakes, the 45GS stands out for the 9SA4 inside. It’s a large, slim, and sophisticated calibre that’s a substantial improvement over the manual-wind movements found in past remakes. Because of the movement, the 45GS remakes are amongst the more expensive manual-wind Grand Seiko models at US$9,700 in stainless steel and US$30,000 in yellow gold. Moreover, the two priced comparably to the SLGW002 and SLGW003, which are modern designs but powered by the same calibre. While not as affordable as other Grand Seiko models, the 45G...

Micromilspec Launches The New Milgraph GMT Chronograph At Geneva Watch Days Fratello
Aug 29, 2024

Micromilspec Launches The New Milgraph GMT Chronograph At Geneva Watch Days

Making its Geneva Watch Days debut, Norwegian independent brand Micromilspec has announced a new watch. Launched as a civilian model, the Milgraph is a serious military-inspired chronograph that packs a lot of functionality onto the wrist. It provides a column-wheel-operated chronograph movement with a GMT function in a blasted titanium case. At first glance, there’s […] Visit Micromilspec Launches The New Milgraph GMT Chronograph At Geneva Watch Days to read the full article.

Explained: The Horizontal Clutch of a Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 530 How it Aug 26, 2024

Explained: The Horizontal Clutch of a Chronograph

The chronograph is an on-demand complication, as its operation requires the user to active the function. As such, the chronograph, or more accurately a stopwatch, engages selectively with the going train of the watch. The chronograph wheel couples with the going train when engaged and uncouples when stopped or reset. The mechanism which makes this selective engagement possible is the clutch.  Arguably the most classical form of clutch is the horizontal clutch, also known as a lateral coupling. As suggested by the name, the coupling action takes place horizontally, with the clutch arm moving on a plane parallel to the movement. Because the mechanism is spread out laterally, it results in an intricate display of mechanics, which is one reason why the lateral coupling is desired by many enthusiasts. A eminently classical chronograph construction in a mid-20th century Patek Philippe ref. 530 How it works The fundamentals of the horizontal clutch are outlined in Figs. 1 and 2. Gear R1 is fixed to the seconds’ mobile, on the same axis, above the going train. The same mobile conveys the turning motion from the going train, and may carry the small seconds hand on the dial side. The clutch arm pivots on the same axis as R1 and carries an intermediary clutch wheel R2. In Fig. 1 the column wheel or cam (not shown) keeps the clutch uncoupled with the intermediary wheel R2 idling. In other words R2 is turning but not driving anything.   Fig 1. Image – Patek Philippe patent EP1437...

Citizen Introduces a Super Titanium™ Copilot for Your Weekend Drive Time with the Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer Worn & Wound
Citizen Introduces Aug 12, 2024

Citizen Introduces a Super Titanium™ Copilot for Your Weekend Drive Time with the Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer

Ask any auto enthusiast how important their weekend drive time is to them, and you’ll likely hear responses with adjectives like: special, critical, personal, and even sacred. It’s all about setting aside a moment to be one with the road. But it is also about making some time to reset yourself for the week ahead. This can certainly be accomplished behind the wheel of your favorite automobile, but this important ritual of resetting yourself each week can happen in various ways-as long as it clears the mind and revs the soul. Citizen is celebrating this special drive time with a new limited edition chronograph based on their original Bullhead from 1973. This time they’re leveraging that all important concept of strength-to-weight ratio to the world of racing by making it in their proprietary Super Titanium case material. The all-new Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer is that useful reminder and an ideal copilot for this vital weekly reset. The post Citizen Introduces a Super Titanium™ Copilot for Your Weekend Drive Time with the Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing - The New Pink-Themed Junghans Meister Damen and Meister Fein Kleine Automatics Monochrome
Junghans Meister Damen Aug 8, 2024

Introducing - The New Pink-Themed Junghans Meister Damen and Meister Fein Kleine Automatics

During the 20th century, Junghans recruited some of the best designers to perpetuate the rational, understated German aesthetic that informs the brand’s products. Anton Ziegler, in charge of design from 1930 to 1960, understood the importance of proportion and balance on a dial and the elegance of a slim case, characteristics that have defined the Meister […]

The Evergreens - The History of the ETA Peseux 7001, The Hand-Wound Classic That Stood the Test of Time Monochrome
Jul 19, 2024

The Evergreens - The History of the ETA Peseux 7001, The Hand-Wound Classic That Stood the Test of Time

Self-winding calibres are undeniably an advancement, especially those boasting extended autonomy. Yet, there is a timeless ritual, almost archaic, the deliberate act of winding a watch by thumb and forefinger, each click of the ratchet wheel a symphony for the discerning ear. This tactile dance, this connection to the mechanics, is a pleasure some aficionados […]

News - The F1-Themed Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue, Now Available to the Public Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue Jul 3, 2024

News - The F1-Themed Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue, Now Available to the Public

A few months ago, just ahead of the 2024 Formula 1 season, Tudor announced a rather unexpected partnership, signing its return in motorsport. The brand indeed announced its official partnership with Red Bull’s second team, Visa Cash App RB Formula One team, with drivers Daniel Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda behind the wheel. Only a couple […]

Hands-on - The Bold and Ultra-Modern Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon Mr Jul 1, 2024

Hands-on - The Bold and Ultra-Modern Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon

Mr Roger Dubuis founded his eponymous brand in 1995, swiftly achieving success with timepieces that deftly balance traditional watchmaking craftsmanship and bold, expressive designs. Since 2003, the brand has been renowned for its expertise in tourbillon watches, starting with the calibre RD03. This fully integrated manufacture has since become a specialist in architectural skeletonised tourbillons, […]

The Petrolhead Corner - Sitting Down with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele on Cars, The Mille Miglia And The Connection To Chopard Monochrome
Chopard I recently had Jun 22, 2024

The Petrolhead Corner - Sitting Down with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele on Cars, The Mille Miglia And The Connection To Chopard

I recently had the chance to see one of my car-related dreams being partially fulfilled; experiencing the Mille Miglia! It was a last-minute arrangement for me so I sadly could not get behind the wheel of a vintage sports or racing car, but it was a scintillating experience nonetheless. Spending a day-and-a-half in the rolling […]

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Atwood Hand-Wind Chronograph SJX Watches
Tudor Monte Carlo But May 23, 2024

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Atwood Hand-Wind Chronograph

Oak & Oscar has just launched its second chronograph, the Atwood, a modern take on vintage racing chronographs that’s powered by a manually wound Sellita AMT5100M. The movement is a derivative of the Valjoux 7750 that has a few tricks up its sleeve, namely a column wheel and flyback functionality. Chicago-based Oak & Oscar was founded in 2015, making it part of the early wave of ‘micro brands.’ Over the past nine years, the brand has managed to develop its own recognisable minimalist aesthetic across a range of versatile go-anywhere, do-anything sports watches. Initial Thoughts I tend to be fond of Oak & Oscar’s designs, and a lot of that has to do with the expert use of colour. The Atwood is offered in three colourways that are each appealing in their own right, and will feel familiar to fans of the brand. The brand’s signature orange seconds hand is complemented by matching accents on the sub-dials, a stylistic choice that evokes sporty ’70s chronographs like the Tudor Monte Carlo. But the design still manages to feel fresh, thanks in part to the brand’s own strikingly modern typeface. The Atwood is the brand’s second chronograph, after the Jackson which debuted in 2017. The Atwood addresses one of the few shortcomings of the Jackson, which is the latter’s 14.5 mm case thickness. The 39 mm Atwood is comparatively slim at just 12.9 mm, a figure that includes the domed sapphire crystal, meaning that visually it will appear even thinner. While the dimensio...

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners on Rubber Straps with the Alpine F1 Team Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces May 8, 2024

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners on Rubber Straps with the Alpine F1 Team

One of my favorite Watches & Wonders experiences these past few years was the brief time I got to spend with the Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon. All tourbillons are special, of course, but this one is especially unique and I found it to be genuinely kind of awe inspiring in person. As the name of the watch implies, the cylindrical hairspring wraps around the balance spindle vertically, giving what is already a fairly dramatic watch an even more profound sense of depth. It’s a particularly challenging watchmaking feat to pull off, but pays dividends, according to Moser, in reducing friction and improving isochronism, both of which play a role in a more stable rate through the duration of the movement’s power reserve.  In the last few weeks, Moser has been busy introducing two new versions of their most impressive tourbillon, this time as part of the Streamliner collection of watches, and in both cases in partnership with the BWT Alpine F1 Team. The watches take a similar aesthetic approach seen in the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon, with a skeletonized dial that prominently highlights the flying tourbillon at 6:00, and a decentralized dial at the 12:00 position. The difference of course is that now we have this complication in a Streamliner case (and on a rubber strap) for a watch (a pair of watches, actually) that might just be the sportiest Moser has ever made. Both versions of the watch use synthetic, translucent minerals for the small decentralized dials. For...

Introducing - Bianchet Partners with Maserati MSG Racing & Launches Two Limited Flying Tourbillon Grande Date Monochrome
Bianchet May 2, 2024

Introducing - Bianchet Partners with Maserati MSG Racing & Launches Two Limited Flying Tourbillon Grande Date

In 2021, Bianchet debuted in the watch industry with the Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork, establishing the brand’s design language and paving the way for future releases – like the 2023 Flying Tourbillon Grande Date. In 2023, Maserati returned to the world of open-wheel single-seater motorsport after a hiatus of 65 years. However, instead of the roar […]