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Results for Crown Guard Types

784 articles · 8 videos found · page 12 of 27

Insight: Screw-Down Showdown SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Sep 22, 2026

Insight: Screw-Down Showdown

Mechanical movements attract most of the technical interest in watchmaking, but considerable engineering also goes into keeping them dry. For an everyday watch, the waterproof construction of the case and crown is central to its reliability, yet the way these components keep water out is often misunderstood. Screw-down crowns and case backs are widely regarded as the best way to seal a watch. But the choice is not always straightforward. On a hand-wound watch, for example, a screw-down crown must be unscrewed and tightened regularly, adding an extra step to winding and potentially compromising the threads. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, on the other hand, features a conventional crown and is rated to 50 m. Even so, some owners remain wary of exposing it to more than an occasional splash. So the question is, how much protection can a conventional crown provide, and what does a screw-down construction add? To understand the distinction, we take a closer look at the crown, its tube and the gaskets that form the seal. As a disclaimer, this discussion concerns modern watches with seals in good condition; vintage watches and those long overdue for service should be checked for waterproofness prior to contact with water. A common misconception The actual waterproofness of a joint relates to the uniformity of the seal pressure. In this case, “waterproofness” is used broadly as the ability of a mechanical joint to keep water from seeping in under normal functioning conditions...

Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Sep 10, 2026

Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs

For the first time in the Astron collection, Seiko introduces gray ceramic. The shiny non-alloy appears on the bezel, crown cap, and bracelet center links of two new Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronograph watches. While these models share the ceramic parts, they have differently colored titanium components. The HAB007 is the full-gray version, […] Visit Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs to read the full article.

Introducing: The Baltic Aquascaphe GMT MK-II Hodinkee
Baltic Aquascaphe GMT MK-II What Sep 3, 2026

Introducing: The Baltic Aquascaphe GMT MK-II

What We Know Last year, we covered Baltic's relaunch of the Aquascaphe, their vintage-leaning traditional-style diver (not to be confused with their dual-crown version). That release came in several colors and two sizes. Now they're relaunching the Aquascaphe GMT as a new Mark II version. While the aesthetic changes are more subtle than on the diver, the changes under the hood are more substantial. The Aquascaphe GMT MK-II has a subtly redesigned case profile (39.5mm by 13.8mm, 316L stainless steel, with a 47mm lug-to-lug), with the most distinguishing feature being the new crown guards that make the case distinctly more modern. The rest of the case has been reworked (it is 0.5mm wider and 0.8mm thicker), with vertical brushing on the lugs and 200m water resistance. The watch still has a luminous 24-click GMT sapphire bidirectional bezel. The caseback engraving (which we've posted a picture of later in the story), on the other hand, is simplified from the globe design on the first version. What used to be three color variants is now four, all with glossy black dials and Super-LumiNova BGW9. One has a blue-and-light-blue bezel with light-blue dial text and a GMT hand. Another is a "Pepsi" style with red accents. The third has a blue-and-green bezel, and the last, the newest, is black and grey with orange accents. The hands and indices are a bit bolder and rounder. Inside the case, the brand has changed to a "flyer" Miyota 9075 GMT movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The ...

Even In Titanium, The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Is No Lightweight Fratello
Aug 31, 2026

Even In Titanium, The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Is No Lightweight

Since 2020, Gagà Laboratorio has produced distinctive wristwatches with Italian flair and Swiss precision. The company’s catalog comprises two model lines, the Labormatic and the Aqualab. Both are progressively designed and appear to be the types of pieces that could cost as much as a high-end sports car. However, that couldn’t be further from the […] Visit Even In Titanium, The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Is No Lightweight to read the full article.

Insight: The Keyless Works SJX Watches
Czapek was going sour Aug 31, 2026

Insight: The Keyless Works

Having previously examined concepts related to energy flow inside watch movements, from automatic winding to barrel capacity and gear tooth profiles, we now turn and look at how energy enters the movement through the keyless works. For the majority of watches, the crown is the sole component through which the owner interacts with the movement, for both setting the indications and winding. While these operations have become a matter of routine, they wouldn’t be possible if not for the keyless works. This underrated mechanism — usually hidden — deserves a closer look. From key to crown We owe today’s user-friendly dual-purpose crown, which can be used for both winding and setting, to French watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe, whose last name is certainly resonant with all horology enthusiasts. A keen technician who had not found success in his homeland, Philippe was approached in 1845 by Antoine Norbert de Patek, a Polish watch merchant from Geneva. Patek’s then-partnership with François Czapek was going sour and the merchant was looking for a new, technically oriented associate. Shortly thereafter, Philippe was appointed as technical director at Patek’s firm. This unexpected fast track was due to Philippe’s innovation: the keyless, stem-wound movement. Although his French peers weren’t taken with the invention, Patek recognised the potential of keyless timepieces and sought to capitalise on — and further develop — the concept. Later in 1851, Patek, Philipp...

Fears Celebrates Its (Re-)Birthday With The New Brunswick 39 -  The Brand’s First Perpetual Calendar Fratello
Fears Celebrates Aug 27, 2026

Fears Celebrates Its (Re-)Birthday With The New Brunswick 39 -  The Brand’s First Perpetual Calendar

This year, Fears celebrates 180 years since its founding and 10 years since its revival by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. Over the past decade, the British brand has established an understated and elegant collection, with the Brunswick as its most recognizable reference point. Now, the watch, with its signature cushion-shaped case, onion crown, and pipette hands, gets […] Visit Fears Celebrates Its (Re-)Birthday With The New Brunswick 39 — The Brand’s First Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.

Hands-On: Vario’s Navi Collection Goes International Worn & Wound
Aug 18, 2026

Hands-On: Vario’s Navi Collection Goes International

As I expand my knowledge of microbrands, I was super excited to receive a sample from Vario, a Singapore-based company that’s been going strong for a decade. The brand’s latest offering builds on its Navi collection, which first joined Vario’s catalog in 2021. The line holds firm to its nautical roots with its sleek and refined interpretation of a porthole throughout the case and dial along with its compass and anchor hands and sailor-cap crown. Over the past five years, the Navi has taken a few forms, from the inaugural jump-hour to special editions like the Popeye and Vario’s collaboration with Watch Enthusiasts India (WEI). In 2024, we saw the introduction of a single-hand version, offering a slow-time display with an Engine Order Telegraph (EOT) 12-section dial in which each of the 12 sections is broken down into 15-minute intervals for a general reading of the time rather than one to the exact minute. Now, Vario builds on this design with five new colorways and, for the first time, new languages. With this extension of the Navi collection, Vario is taking the line into international waters starting regionally with Chapter One: Europe. The foundation of the models remains the same as what we saw in the original and now sold-out single hand version. The case is rendered in 316L stainless steel and executed in highly wearable proportions at 38mm in diameter and 11mm in thickness. The lugs strike a good balance of geometry and curvature that allows the model to si...

Is The Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly What The Brand Needed? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly Aug 14, 2026

Is The Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly What The Brand Needed? (Hands-On)

Piaget’s released a new iteration of their Polo Signature Date, but does it truly embody the brand’s modern creative vision? Let’s find out! What We Love: Shapely, wearable case More distinct dial & identity The rubber strap – still comfortable! What We Don’t: Crown feels slightly small Dead zone when changing times Is it finally recognisable? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 For as much as I love watches for their design, technology, or daring in either field, recognition must be recognised as one of the most important elements of a watch brand’s arsenal. When a watch brand goes ‘mainstream’ within the enthusiast community, it brings with it a significant amount of power within the watch world. But it’s usually easier said than done; scant few brands have managed to capture the attention of both hardcore enthusiasts and luxury lovers at the same time. Piaget is a brand that has perennially clung to the fringes of that audience. In the past, they hadn’t been able to tap into the enthusiast crowd with the same level of magnitude as some of their peers in Richemont. While one can easily point the finger towards characteristics like ultra-luxury and exclusivity, it hasn’t stopped other brands of a similar calibre from breaking through. So if not that, then what? Perhaps it’s due to a lack of distinctive visual identity, which in recent years has begun to change. While fans of the ...

This Bezel Does It All: Introducing The Minerva The Unveiled Crownless Fratello
Minerva Aug 14, 2026

This Bezel Does It All: Introducing The Minerva The Unveiled Crownless

What’s the best watch-related invention ever? I realize it’s not an easy question to answer, but please, give it a go. I asked myself the exact same thing, and I concluded that it has to be the crown. We have Jean-Adrien Philippe to thank for that. Now we have the Minerva, The Unveiled Crownless, the […] Visit This Bezel Does It All: Introducing The Minerva The Unveiled Crownless to read the full article.

Introducing: Panerai’s Luminor Marina PAM01707 Is All Classic Everything, Except For The High-Tech Composite Case Hodinkee
Panerai s Luminor Marina PAM01707 Aug 12, 2026

Introducing: Panerai’s Luminor Marina PAM01707 Is All Classic Everything, Except For The High-Tech Composite Case

What We Know As one of the more recognisable watch designs, period, the current Panerai Luminor shape has been rendered in many different materials since the 1955 introduction of the crown protection device. This latest take, the Luminor Marina PAM01707, is cased in Carbotech, a composite material combining carbon fibre sheets and polyether ether ketone, resulting in excellent anti-corrosion properties and lightness. Though Panerai’s products now comfortably sit in the luxury watchmaking category, it hasn't stopped them from using avant-garde materials suited to the original intent of their designs. Measuring 44mm across and 14.5mm thick, the PAM01707 has all the hallmarks of a classic Panerai, with its cushion-shaped mid-case sandwiched by a round, striated Carbotech bezel and a DLC-treated titanium caseback. The signature bridge, which spans the right-hand side of the case and protects and locks the crown, is also rendered in carbon, matching the uneven, textured finish of the rest of the case. This sanga-based analogy can be expanded on for the dial, another Panerai hallmark. The textured, matte top plate features cut-outs for the stick indices and Arabic numerals at the cardinal points, as well as the small seconds indicator at 9 o’clock, allowing the fauxtinated Super-LumiNova bottom layer to shine through. Here pictured on brown calf leather, Panerai also includes an “Officine Panerai”-branded black rubber strap so you can actually take the watch swimming, th...

Seiko Gives the Honda Motocompo Its Own 5 Sports Limited Edition - HDB010 WatchRider
Seiko Gives Aug 4, 2026

Seiko Gives the Honda Motocompo Its Own 5 Sports Limited Edition - HDB010

Seiko has turned one of Honda’s strangest ideas into a watch. The new Seiko 5 Sports Honda Motocompo Limited Edition HDB010 takes the colours and small details of the folding 1980s scooter then places them inside a compact automatic field watch. This is more than a yellow dial with two famous logos. The crown copies a label from the scooter’s fuel control, the strap borrows its loading instructions and the box looks like the carton used to ship the Motocompo. Even the caseback has been turned into a bright red display for the 4R36 movement. A 45-year-old scooter becomes a watch Honda introduced the Motocompo in 1981 alongside the first Honda City. It was a 49cc two-stroke motorcycle created to fit inside the City’s luggage area. The handlebars and footrests folded into its rectangular body, while special systems helped prevent fuel, oil or battery fluid from leaking inside the car. Honda described the idea as a new six-wheel lifestyle, combining a small car with a motorcycle that could be carried in its trunk. The scooter weighed 42kg dry, produced 2.5 horsepower and measured only 1.185 metres long. Its small wheels and box-like panels made it instantly recognisable. Production lasted from 1981 until 1983, yet the Motocompo continued to gain fans long after it disappeared from showrooms. The HDB010 arrives for its 45th anniversary and uses the yellow version of the scooter as its main source of inspiration. A compact Field Series case in Motocompo colours The HDB010 ...

Introducing - The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage” Ceramic Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Aug 3, 2026

Introducing - The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage” Ceramic

Audemars Piguet has long embraced new materials and continues to expand its ceramics expertise, revealing a striking new version of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon. While the base of this 41mm model itself is familiar, the news is its material: the entire watch, case, bezel, crown and integrated bracelet are executed in “Bleu Nuit, […]

Introducing - The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 in Lightweight Carbotech Monochrome
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 Aug 3, 2026

Introducing - The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 in Lightweight Carbotech

Panerai expands the use of advanced materials across its collections and reveals the new Luminor Marina PAM01707. The overall design remains unmistakably that of the classic Luminor, with the crown-protecting bridge, sandwich dial and 44mm proportions, but the latest addition pairs these familiar elements with a full Carbotech case. This lighter, highly corrosion-resistant version of […]

Understanding the Omega Ploprof: what it is, why it exists, and whether it is actually for you WristBuzz
Understanding the Omega Ploprof: what it is, why it exists, and whether it is actually for you Aug 2, 2026

Understanding the Omega Ploprof: what it is, why it exists, and whether it is actually for you

It looks like nothing else on the wrist. Crown at 9, a red locking bezel button, a case shape that has divided opinion for 55 years. Here is the history, the current model, and the honest question of whether the Ploprof is a Ploprof for you or a very expensive nope.

Explained: Grande Sonnerie Click Wheels SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch Jul 28, 2026

Explained: Grande Sonnerie Click Wheels

A visual staple of grande sonnerie watches is a pair of large, highly finished and intriguing-looking click wheels. Continuing our exploration of various horological energy systems — including winding efficiency and the fusee and chain — we examine the linkage of ratchets, clicks and wide-toothed gears that comprise the winding works of some of the industry’s best chiming watches. A Patek Philippe grande sonnerie movement from 1915. One crown for two barrels The grande sonnerie is rightfully considered the pinnacle of chiming complications. With the ability to automatically sound the hours and quarters, a grande sonnerie requires heaps of power to keep it going over the course of a day. As a result, most grande sonnerie movements rely on a second mainspring barrel that is isolated from the timekeeping going train. The requirement for independent barrels stems from the different rates at which the barrels unwind. The striking works require a faster-turning barrel that’s only active for short periods, while the going train feeds from a slow and steady barrel. Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch crafted by Philippe Dufour. As the barrels discharge unevenly, it makes sense that they cannot be wound in sync. Winding both mainsprings in sync would typically over-strain one of them since their winding states are rarely the same at any given time. Although the two barrels themselves are separated, they often share the same winding train. Now a signature of Vallée...

Complicated Collectors: King Farouk I SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin before Plan-les-Ouates Image – Jul 20, 2026

Complicated Collectors: King Farouk I

On the morning of March 30, 1937, 16-year-old King Farouk I of Egypt visited the workshops of Vacheron & Constantin in Geneva. He had been on the throne for less than a year. His father, Fouad I, had died in April 1936, leaving him the crown, the palaces, and a collection that included one of the most complicated watches the Swiss had ever produced. The welcome was formal, as the company’s records and the following morning’s edition of La Suisse both confirm. The young king was received by the company’s directors and shown the workshops. He was already, by multiple accounts, deeply interested in watches as objects to be understood from the inside — the tour of the manufacture was a pilgrimage. Vacheron Constantin, before Plan-les-Ouates. Image – SJX composite/Vacheron Constantin At some point during the visit, Farouk made a remark that passed into the house lore of Vacheron & Constantin and into several of his subsequent biographies, though seldom accurately. The original French, as La Suisse reported it, was precise: “C’est qu’on n’abîmera jamais autant de montres que je n’en ai abîmé étant enfant!”, which translates as “One will never ruin as many watches as I ruined as a child.” Secondary sources have rendered this with démontées — dismantled — in place of abîmé; a small but telling substitution that transforms an admission of destruction into evidence of mechanical curiosity. A child who dismantles watches is a nascent watchmaker. ...

Hands-on - Minerva The Unveiled Crownless, Rethinking One of Watchmaking’s Simplest Controls Monochrome
Ming two essential tasks winding Jul 17, 2026

Hands-on - Minerva The Unveiled Crownless, Rethinking One of Watchmaking’s Simplest Controls

The crown is one of those watch components we rarely think much about. It has been there for well over a century, mainly performing two essential tasks: winding the movement and setting the time. We now have all sorts of crowns, including hidden crowns and even retractable crowns, yet very few have questioned whether any […]

The Top 5 Current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models Fratello
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models Another Jul 17, 2026

The Top 5 Current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models

Another Friday, another list! This week, we dive into the world of the modern Rolex Daytona. It’s one of the most debated watches among watch enthusiasts. Whether it’s about the Daytona’s aura, the fact that it’s become an unobtainium, or its design, people have a lot to say about The Crown’s iconic chronograph. Despite all […] Visit The Top 5 Current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models to read the full article.

Swatch Debuts MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969 SJX Watches
Omega MoonSwatch Mission Jul 16, 2026

Swatch Debuts MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969

In the run-up to the 57th anniversary of mankind’s first steps on the moon, Swatch has launched the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969, a watch that follows the proven MoonSwatch formula but enhances the value proposition with a substantial amount of 18k MoonShine gold. In fact, the 11 g of 18k gold contained in the dial, crown, and pushers is worth nearly twice the retail price of the watch at today’s spot price. In addition to the historical “OM” designation found at six o’clock, the dial is also engraved “Au 750” denoting its solid gold construction. Initial thoughts The anniversary of the moon landing, which took place July 21, 1969, is an annual reminder of the Omega Speedmaster’s legendary status as ‘the moon watch’. It’s an old story, but it remains a good one. The MoonSwatch leans heavily on this heritage, and the latest iteration is arguably the greatest, borrowing several aesthetic motifs from the so-called “Nixon” Speedmasters that were gifted to American astronauts and government officials — namely the gold dial and black inlay for the hands and dial markers. Substantively, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is much like any other MoonSwatch, with a plastic case that’s a dead ringer for that of the Speedmaster Professional. An ETA quartz chronograph ticks inside, and the battery — now protected by a scratch-resistant cover — is accessible from the case back. That said, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is an atypical Moon...

The ABCs of Time - Everything about Watch Lugs, from Early Wire Lugs to the Most Expressive Designs Monochrome
Jul 11, 2026

The ABCs of Time - Everything about Watch Lugs, from Early Wire Lugs to the Most Expressive Designs

Wristwatches were a 20th century cultural trend that rendered the centuries-old pocket watch obsolete. From a functional standpoint, both watch types are the same, but changes were still needed for daily practicality on the wrist. For starters, watch cases had to shrink – pocket watches averaged 50mm in diameter with a broader range of 43mm […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yellow Rolesor Vs. Oyster Perpetual “Jubilee” Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yellow Rolesor Jul 5, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yellow Rolesor Vs. Oyster Perpetual “Jubilee”

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a fresh cup of coffee to accompany a good ol’ watch brawl. This week, we picked two Rolex Oyster Perpetual models to go up against each other. Both were introduced during Watches and Wonders in April and were The Crown’s main releases for this year. The two new […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yellow Rolesor Vs. Oyster Perpetual “Jubilee” to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Chronoswiss Pulse GMT Frosted Guilloche Gold Monochrome
Chronoswiss Pulse GMT Frosted Guilloche Jul 3, 2026

Introducing - The New Chronoswiss Pulse GMT Frosted Guilloche Gold

Presented in 2025, the Pulse collection was a significant departure for Chronoswiss. While retaining signature elements such as the onion crown, coin-edge bezel and layered dial construction, it introduced a newly designed case with an integrated-style bracelet and a very contemporary aesthetic. Earlier this year, the collection welcomed the Pulse GMT models, namely the Enamel […]

First Look - The New-Generation Ulysse Nardin Freak X; Smaller, More Versatile and with new Movement Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Smaller More Jun 17, 2026

First Look - The New-Generation Ulysse Nardin Freak X; Smaller, More Versatile and with new Movement

In 2019, Ulysse Nardin launched the Freak X. More compact, more accessible and equipped with a conventional crown, it retained the essence of the original Freak (no hands, no dial, and no crown) introduced in 2001 by visionary watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin, while adapting it for everyday wear and a broader clientele. Now, as the manufacture […]

Introducing: The Oris Lou Gehrig Limited Edition Hodinkee
Oris Lou Gehrig Limited Edition Jun 2, 2026

Introducing: The Oris Lou Gehrig Limited Edition

What We Know We're in the thick of baseball season, and Oris has pulled a doubleheader, of sorts. Yesterday brought us the new Hölstein edition, and today we're getting a new baseball-themed watch. Oris is the official watch sponsor of the New York Yankees, and this year, they're releasing a special watch to support one of the team's all-time legends, Lou Gehrig. The newest Big Crown Pointer Date is a special watch supporting the Lou and Eleanor Gehrig Family Foundation. The watch, in 40mm-by-12.2 mm stainless steel (with a 48.2mm lug-to-lug), is certainly inspired by the colors of the Yankees. The silver dial is surrounded by a black date ring with the "4" in blue (for Lou Gehrig's number), a blue minute track that matches the blue surrounding the hour markers. They've used a combination of Arabic numerals and stick hour markers for a sporty look. The movement is the Oris Caliber 754, with a 41-hour power reserve and automatic winding. It's delivered with a NATO strap in Yankee colors and a brown double-stitched strap that looks like a baseball glove. The caseback is engraved with a portrait of Lou Gehrig and the watch's number within the production total. There are 2130 pieces available, one for each of the consecutive games he played across 15 seasons, before his death in 1941 at the age of only 37. The retail price is CHF 2,400. Oris says that they will contribute to the work of The Lou and Eleanor Gehrig Family Foundation. What We Think The Pointer Date is probably O...